菊乃井 村田シェフ「塩昆布･ぬか漬け」調理術 ｜【日本料理】【和食】【後世に残したい】【ミシュラン三ツ星】【The Japanese Tradition】

菊乃井 村田シェフ「塩昆布･ぬか漬け」調理術 ｜【日本料理】【和食】【後世に残したい】【ミシュラン三ツ星】【The Japanese Tradition】

[Seasonal Dishes to be Preserved for Future Generations] [Today’s dishes are: “Kombu kelp boiled in soy sauce with Japanese pepper” and “Rice bran pickles”] Hello, I’m Murata from Kikunoi. So far, we’ve made traditional main dishes, but next, I would like to make some side dishes. I’m going to cook kombu in soy sauce.

You can also use kombu which is used for making dashi in the same way. As it uses water, you must store it in the fridge, or it will get moldy quickly. And since it would be a waste to use all sake, we are going to cook it with half sake and half water.

Here, we have square pieces of kombu. These will swell up to about twice the size, so take that into account when you’re cooking. Put it in a container, and add water to it. Sake. Add vinegar to prevent spoilage. After leaving them overnight, you will see them swell up like this.

They’ve grown quite considerably, haven’t they? This remaining water is full of kombu dashi. We’re going to put this in a pot and cook all the ingredients. And now we have shiitake mushrooms rehydrated in water. We’ll use them with the kombu today. This water of shiitake has an umami flavor called guanylic acid.

When guanylic acid combines with glutamic acid which is found in kombu, they produce about 12 times as much umami, making them the perfect combination. Here’s the rehydrated shiitake. However, if there is too much shiitake or its juice in the dish, the shiitake will be too strong and it might interfere with other flavors.

Some people actually like it that way, so if you are one of them, then that is fine. Add sansho (Japanese pepper) if you have one. This is salted sansho that has had the salt removed, but I think you can also find sansho cooked in soy sauce only.

If you don’t have it, then that’s okay. Put a cover directly on the food and cook until the kombu becomes soft. Cam: What kind of kombu is it?NChef: It’s makombu. This time, it’s the one you can find in the supermarket labeled Yamadashi. That’s the makombu.

People say you should cook until you can easily get a fingernail through the kelp, but it’s not that complicated. You can just eat it. That’s the easiest way to tell. If you feel it’s soft enough, that’s just it. Now, add tamari soy sauce, dark soy sauce, mirin, and sugar.

Then, put the cover again and simmer. People tend to keep the heat low being afraid of overcooking it, but if you keep the heat low, the kelp will eventually start to melt around. So it is always better to keep it on high.

It’s almost ready once the soup is gone and looks like this. Just like that. It’s ready once you simmer down to this level. Be careful not to burn it as it will be easier to burn the less water it is left.

Cam: Why is this dish called “Salted kombu” in Japanese when no salt is used at all? Chef: Soy sauce used to be expensive, so I guess people were cooking it with salt only. Now you can see there’s almost no soup left in the pan.

Once you simmer it down to this level without burning it, it’s done cooking. Just like that. As this is supposed to be a preserved food, nobody would want to eat this right away after cooking. So you’re going to store this in the fridge or something after it’s cooled down.

The kelp absorbs extra water and it will become like this. You can see it has absorbed more water. [Kelp cooked in soy sauce with Japanese pepper] We Japanese eat rice with vegetables as a side dish. Europeans eat beef, drink milk, and drink wine.

They made fermented foods like cheese from cow’s milk, goat’s milk, sheep’s milk, etc. We Japanese use vegetables to make pickles, also a fermented food. Although both of us have a different food culture, in terms of eating pickles after meals, what we do is very similar to what Europeans do.

However, Japanese pickles these days are no longer fermented in soup like before. This is a very sad thing for our culture. I would like to see every household make and eat pickles again, just like our mother used to do.

Just prepare cucumbers and eggplants in the base, and they will become nice pickles the next day. Even if it’s not in a tub, you can keep it in a Tupperware and put it in the fridge. I really look forward to seeing the fermentation culture back on track again.

So let’s go through the process of making it. Here is water, and this is salt. Boil the water to make salt water. If you do it with unsalted water, it will rot. There’s only bran and salt water, so it’s a lactic acid fermentation.

Because it is lactic acid fermentation with yeast plants, it won’t go that bad easily, but it’s difficult to adjust the acidity in control without being too strong. Now bring it to a boil first. Once it comes to a boil, let it cool down. Here is the bran which will be the pickling base.

In the past, people used to roast the bran before using it, but that will only kill all the bacteria in the bran. First, add the salt water to the bran. Mix it well with the water. You can just do it by hand when it reaches a certain point.

Tell the bacteria to make it tasty while you mix it and the bacteria will work very hard for it. The reason why the taste of pickles differs from house to house is because of the difference in the indigenous bacteria. I think that is the best form of food culture.

Mix it well from the bottom. Now try eating it to see. It’s just bran, so you’re going to eat it every day to check it. It’s just the skin of rice. If it doesn’t have the right amount of salt at this point, there is no way the pickles will taste good as well.

Here add a chili pepper. This is to prevent abnormal fermentation. Put 3 cm squares of kombu in the bran. These will absorb the water in the bran and will get bigger. Now the pickling base is ready. At first, we put something that has a lot of moisture like cabbage or daikon radish.

That will allow the fermentation to progress and make the pickles tastier. As we pickle more stuff like radish peels and carrot stems every day and stir the bran with your hands, the bran will gradually become more accustomed to it.

Using a Tupperware is okay, but if you can, use some kind of earthenware to allow the air to flow through and the bacteria will be more active. This is the pickling base that has been done accustoming. Cam: How do we know if it’s done accustoming?

Chef: You just know it when you eat them. Cam: So we can start by putting vegetable pieces and then eat them to see if it tastes like pickles? Chef: That’s right. Even if they don’t taste as good yet, it’s not like you can’t eat them, so you can just keep eating them.

It depends on how salty you want it to be, but in most cases, we first rub salt into cucumbers. After rubbing salt into them, we’ll leave them for a while. Eggplant can be pickled as it is, but since it takes more time, we cut it in half to speed it up.

Make one or two cuts on the thickest part of the eggplant. This is an alum. We rub it into the skin. This will make eggplant color beautifully when it’s done pickling. Leave it for about 10 minutes. It’s been 30 minutes after rubbing salt into cucumbers. Now we are ready to put the cucumbers.

You just need to put them into the pickling base. The cucumbers will be quite wilted. As for the eggplant, we’ll rinse off the alum with water. After that, rub it with salt again. Rub it into the other side as well. Then we can put them in as it is.

The bran contains nothing inedible, so please eat it every day. If it becomes too sour, remove the thin membrane of the eggshell, crush it, and put it into the pickling base. That will eliminate the sourness. Like, people add beer to it, but that will only make the pickles sourer with instant fermentation.

I do not recommend it. Cam: Do we keep the eggshells in the pot after we put them in?NChef: Yes, you keep them in. The acid will dissolve the eggshells, which is why the acidity disappears. Then, you leave them for a while. The time varies from person to person,

But we pickle them for about 8 hours. If it gets over-pickled, then you can chop it and eat it with ginger and stuff. Make sure to not waste the bran by removing it from the vegetables. Then, wash them with water.

When you go to a pickle shop and see pickled eggplants that are very purplish, you have to think that something chemical might have been added to it. This purple color will degrade quickly, so take them out when you eat them. The skin is hard, so make some little cuts on it.

Cam: As you check the taste of the pickles every day in the kitchen, are there times you find them taste different than usual? Chef: It’s different every day. Sometimes it’s sour, sometimes it’s under-pickled, it happens every day. However, people come to restaurants like ours expect that their pickles are always the best,

And we try to keep the quality consistent every day. [Japanese pickles: cucumbers and eggplants]

ミシュラン三ツ星、菊乃井の村田シェフの新シリーズ
『後世に残したい「本当に食べたい」季節のお料理』

旬の食材を使い、後世に残していくべき日本料理を学ぶ、新企画も早くも3回目です！
昭和の頃はどの家庭でも作られ、食べられていた旬の食材を使ったお料理を、菊乃井の主人、村田吉弘氏から学びます。

旬の食材を正しい調理法で。
料理屋の調理方法と家庭での調理方法の違いなども説明しながら、「一汁三菜」をテーマに、ご飯に合うおかずや残していきたい日本の伝統的な食などをご紹介いたします。
しっかりと手間をかけてあげることで、身体にも良く、食べ応えもある、子供世代にも食べさせてあげたい、本当に美味しい日本料理を後世に残し続けていくことを目的とした連載です。

★チャプター
0:00 オープニング
0:46 昆布を水で戻す
2:25 鍋で炊く
6:46 糠漬け
7:27 塩水と糠を混ぜる
10:15 塩揉み
14:28 完成
14:33 店舗紹介

■分量
★塩昆布
昆布（乾燥）70ｇ
椎茸 70ｇ
実山椒 7~8ｇ
水 500cc
酒 500cc
酢 10cc
砂糖 15g
濃口 5cc
たまり 45cc
味醂 25cc
椎茸の戻し汁 200cc程度
木の芽 適量

★糠漬け
米ぬか 1Kg
水 1000cc
あら塩 130g程度
昆布2cm 角5枚
鷹の爪 2本
胡瓜
茄子
茗荷

■この動画を見て頂いた方へのオススメ動画
★チャンネル内オススメ動画
・高野豆腐と蕗の煮物・菜の花のからし和え｜後世に残したい季節のお料理Vol.2
　https://youtu.be/MhaVp8geZ_g
・筍の土佐煮・豆ご飯｜後世に残したい季節のお料理Vol.1
　https://youtu.be/gi2moeVu9nw?si=P7RfWlHBTch3_Ruw
・鯛のみぞれうどん｜菊乃井
　https://youtu.be/q2aquQKzmZA

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