whale watching in rausu, hokkaido!
Hi everyone! Thanks for joining me in day 22 of our
road trip from Tokyo to Hokkaido. Our third day in Shari (Hokkaido’s most northeastern peninsula) began with breakfast and then we set out for the eastern coast of the Shiretoko Peninsula. We stopped briefly at Cape Puyuni, a viewing spot that gives a great view of the city and sea below. As we were leaving, we spotted a red Ezo fox roaming near the side of the road. The red fox population took a hit in the 90s due to scabies, but thankfully in recent years, more and more sightings have been reported. Shortly after, we came to the start of the Shiretoko Pass, the ~20 mile long road that connects the two coasts via an expressway that runs through the national park. At the halfway point, we checked out another viewing spot that provides tourists with a 360 degree view of the mountains and some of the wildlife (if they happen to make an appearance). While clear skies are probably preferred, I liked the vibe the fog rolling over the hills gave the area. From there, we all piled back into the car to finish out the rest of the way. Just before getting to Rausu, we explored their Visitor Center, which had all kinds of info regarding the plant and wildlife of the eastern side of the park. The building also served as the access point to a variety of hiking trails, some leading wanderers to the nearby river, others to the geyser, and some to different waterfalls. As always, there were bear bells, branded stationery and cool nature postcards to buy as well. In a couple minutes, we’d arrived at the boat dock where we’d embark on a 2 and a half hour sightseeing tour off the coast of Rausu in the Nemuro Strait. Along with the other passengers, we put on our life jackets and situated ourselves near the stern, with the hopes of getting a good view of the animals we might see. My host mom even let me borrow her binoculars to be on the lookout for marine life. As our view of the seaside town shrunk, the ocean expanded before us, putting into perspective how small we were in relation to it. Once we got out far enough, the tour guides were quick to point out the killer whales that had already begun surfacing, the first sightings of the afternoon capturing everyone’s attention. Most of the whales that migrate to these waters usually consist of family pods, with about an average of 10 whales in each [pod]. The juveniles, being less wary of people, will wander closer to the boat out of curiosity, and though some were in the vicinity, that wasn’t the case this time around. Even though it was sunny that day, the ocean mist made it a little fresh, but the views of passing boats, the distant shoreline and intermittent visits from the whales definitely made up for it. At the time this was recorded, it was already mid-August, which is the last month to see the orcas in the Shiretoko area. Even so, out in the distance we could see multiple family pods traveling together. Although the tour was completely in Japanese, the crew would give facts about the area and surrounding wildlife and point people in the direction where one might spot a whale. I learned quickly that there’s lots of patience to be had, as there’s a lot of water to search, and when the orcas did happen to surface, they disappeared just as quickly. At one point, we got even closer to them, and could see their dorsal fins peek out as if to wave at the tourists so curiously looking on. The killer whales, which ironically are even-tempered and intelligent animals, are drawn to the area in the winter due to the drift ice which brings plankton. Smaller fish feed on the plankton, which attracts larger animals that prey on those fish. The complex food chain and extensive wildlife render Shiretoko an interactive site of nature at work. Seeing them against the backdrop of the mountains was just as cool. At our farthest point from shore, the tour guides point us in the direction of a lonely island. This unassuming landmass (named Kunashir) is one of around 50 that make up the Kuril Islands. To this day, the islands remain disputed territory between Russia and Japan (following WWII). Here, the tour guides stop the boat and use a hydrophone to listen for sperm whales. In the meantime, we were free to roam about the ship. I take some time to marvel at the vastness of the sea and the sheer size of the nearby islands, reflecting on how surreal it is to be in such a remote part of the world. Unfortunately, they don’t pick up much activity, so we reluctantly head back to port. While we didn’t see any sperm whales, the experience alone was really fun and interesting, and I feel lucky and grateful that I even got a chance to be a part of it. Once returning from the open sea, we headed to a nearby michi no eki. Like I’ve mentioned in previous videos, these roadside stops act as mini cultural hubs for passing tourists, and often feature local delicacies and freshly caught seafood. While browsing, I found some butter soy sauce scallop flavored Pringles, which I thought was super on brand for Japan. To satiate the kids’ hunger, we got some ice cream and then headed up the road to some local spots. We first came across Tengu Rock, a peculiar shaped rock that was formed by strong winds and crashing waves. It got its name due to its resemblance to the nose of a tengu, a mythical creature in Japanese folklore. Nearby stood the Rusa Field House, another nature center with heaps of info on the park’s history, ecology and more. We only stopped for a moment, so we didn’t poke around, but sea kayakers and hikers have lots to gain here by getting a lay of the land from the experienced park rangers. Our last spot of the day was Seseki Falls, which has an interesting topographical feature. The falls are fed by runoff from the Shiretoko Mountains, which in turn feed into the nearby Seseki Hot Springs. Because they’re nestled on the coast, the hot springs can only be accessed at low tide, so in addition to enjoying the hot spring, you get an awesome view of the sea as well. Upon closer inspection, I found lots of pockets where warm water bubbled to the surface. I figured these are mini hot springs, the residual water from the spring’s source emptying out into the ocean. When we piled back in the van, a surprise visitor made an appearance. Its fur coat smooth and trim, with bold whiskers protruding from its snout, it ran swiftly across the rocky beach, to disappear back into the dense wilderness. Back through the cloudy mountain pass we went, circling back to the viewing point we reached earlier in the day. When we arrived back at the western side of the park, the late evening sun was falling into the ocean, casting gorgeous colors over the town. After showering back at the inn, we took advantage of the beautiful sunset and returned to Cape Puyuni to take it all in. It was a comfortable car ride back to the inn, everyone reflecting on how cool of a day it turned out to be. Concluding our day, dinner back at the inn was a seafood feast, complete with shrimp, clams, and hotpot, hamburgers for the kids, and grapefruit for dessert. Thank you so much for watching 🙂 If you enjoyed the video, feel free to like, share or comment your thoughts. In the next video, I show our trek through the Shiretoko wilderness, as well as our trip to Kushiro, a town abundant with pristine nature sights and home to Japan’s largest marshland. Thanks again and I’ll see you guys in the next one ~
Check out the JR Pass!: https://click.jrpass.com/aff_c?offer_id=19&aff_id=1131
Tokyo to Hokkaido Road Trip playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzfzbhn_W7Cs1JVs2Jmw6xO2Q2H6fSTDq
1st video in the Road Trip Playlist (Sendai):
https://youtu.be/_Kmu1Atq0uU
~ English subtitles available ~
Time Stamps:
0:00-0:21: Intro
0:21-1:48: Shiretoko Pass
1:48-5:10: Whale-watching
5:10-7:06: Viewing spots
7:06-8:25: Sunset @ Cape Puyuni
8:36-9:10: Outro
On day 22, my host family and I check out the Eastern side of the Shiretoko peninsula. Heading to various viewing spots, like Cape Puyuni, the Shiretoko Pass, as well as a whale watching tour off the coast of the Nemuro Strait, we take in the breathtaking sights and nature Shiretoko has to offer. On day 23 of our road trip, we get up close with nature as we trek through accessible bits of the park, bathe at an onsen in the woods, and see our first bear since arriving at the park. Thank you for watching, and don’t forget to like, subscribe, and share with someone who might find this interesting.
Cape Puyuni: https://diversity-finder.net/tourism/cape-puyuni-hokkaido
Shiretoko Pass: https://veryjapanese.jp/places/shiretoko-passshirettoko-toge/
Shiretoko Rausu Visitor Center: http://shiretokorausu-vc.env.go.jp/
Gojira Kamuiwakka Sightseeing Tour: https://kamuiwakka.jp/english-booking.php
Rusa Field House: http://shiretoko-whc.jp/rfh/
Seseki Waterfall: https://kanko.rausu-town.jp/spots/view/2
Seseki Hot Spring: https://rausu-konbu.com/seseki/
Music (in order):
“Rife” — WOOLFSON: https://artlist.io/royalty-free-music/song/rife/120194
“Don’t Bug Me” — Randy Sharp, Aves: https://artlist.io/royalty-free-music/song/dont-bug-me/116932
“I Love Her” — Daniel Brown: https://artlist.io/royalty-free-music/song/i-love-her/102423
“Pizza and Video Games” — Bonus Points: https://soundcloud.com/bonuspoints/pizza-and-video-games
“Experience Sonder” — Flint: https://artlist.io/royalty-free-music/song/experience-sonder/114576
“Slow Evening” — Kitrano: https://artlist.io/royalty-free-music/song/slow-evening/90765