【6泊7日宮城一周③】1泊夕食付6600円の気仙沼民宿！メカジキのハーモニカ、気仙沼ホルモン！【石巻・気仙沼旅】
On my last trip, I ate local gourmet food in the town of Sendai , then moved to Ishinomaki and visited the Tsunami Memorial Museum, which is located within the Ishinomaki Minamihama Tsunami Reconstruction Memorial Park. First, I looked around the park. There used to be a nursery school here, the “Old Kadowaki Nursery School.” Now, all that remains are the foundations of the building and the remains of the pool. “Saint Moat.” This is the “Monument of Remembrance and Memorial,” a waterway that has supported the lives of the people of this area since the Edo period. It seems to have been donated by companies and organizations within the prefecture. “Ichome no Oka,” a 10m-high artificial hill overlooking the park. Photo panels installed allow you to see the scenery before and after the earthquake. “Miyagi Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami Memorial Museum” in Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture. At the Tsunami Memorial Museum, we saw the “Dokonjo Himawari,” a garment worn by a victim of the earthquake .帰りました。 English : The flower blossomed in Ishinomaki immediately after the earthquake, and the seeds have been passed down as a symbol of recovery, courage, and hope. Inside the museum, there are various exhibits such as photographs of Ishinomaki immediately after the Great East Japan Earthquake, details of volunteer activities, and the mechanism of tsunami generation, which made me think a lot. The Noto Peninsula earthquake struck my hometown of Hokuriku on New Year’s Day 2024, and it was because we knew about the Great East Japan Earthquake that we were able to evacuate to higher ground immediately. I feel that it is the duty of people living in this era to pass on this tragedy to future generations so that it does not fade from memory. Tonight’s accommodation is Kesennuma. I will be taking the Sanriku Expressway from Ishinomaki Onagawa IC , which is over 90km from Ishinomaki . The Sanriku Expressway, officially the Sanriku Coastal Road, is the collective name for the Sanriku Longitudinal Expressway, Sanriku North Longitudinal Expressway, and Hachinohe-Kuji Expressway. It is a reconstruction road after the Great East Japan Earthquake, and has the longest toll-free section in Japan at over 330km. I will be getting off the Sanriku Expressway at Karakuwa Obaragi IC. Is it really in a place like this? There was a sign, and it seemed to be the right choice. I arrived at my lodging for the day , Minshuku Sakaya, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture, and checked in . “Go Ishikawa and Toyama!” My heartfelt room was “Benten” on the second floor, a traditional Japanese-style room about 10 tatami mats in size. There was a TV and a futon already laid out in the alcove, and on the table were tissues, a remote control , and an evacuation route in case of a tsunami. A retro heater, which I doubt is in use anymore, is a room straight out of the Showa era. The ocean is right behind the inn . The toilet and sink are on the first floor . Yes, it’s very clean. There’s a shared refrigerator in the dining room . I changed into my yukata and headed for the bath. The bath was a small, domestic style, and the changing room was also small. Unfortunately, it wasn’t a hot spring. There was only one washing area, so I added bath salts. Freshening up, I headed back to my room and lay down for a while. It was time for dinner, and I headed to the dining room on the first floor. I was expecting a light set meal, but it was absolutely luxurious! Macaroni salad , swordfish harmonica sashimi (bonito, salmon, inada) , sea squirt vinegar dish, simmered tuna roe, hijiki and broad bean rice pot, all steaming hot . A luxurious meal featuring seafood from Sanriku . First up is the sashimi: inada, what Toyama calls fukuragiri, and young yellowtail. The salmon sashimi has a soft texture, perhaps because it’s been left to rest. The bonito is all very flavorful, and goes perfectly with the freshly cooked rice pot! The tuna roe is simmered in salt. When you think of Sanriku, you think of sea squirt! It has a squishy texture, bitterness, astringency, the scent of the sea tide, and a flavor that’s hard to describe. You can’t get this in Toyama. Kesennuma specialty, swordfish harmonica. It’s the dorsal fin that resembles a musical instrument called a harmonica. It’s simmered in a sweet and spicy sauce, and it goes perfectly with rice! The wakame seaweed and tofu miso soup was delicious. We were given tea at the end, and it was a wonderful dinner where we were able to enjoy the bounty of Sanriku. The next morning it was cloudy, but I hoped it wouldn’t rain. Thank you for your hospitality. When I checked out and left the inn, the sky was a clear blue! I decided to go to the Marble Coast that I had seen behind me yesterday ! The sea is so beautiful, there seems to be an observation spot up ahead. The contrast between the blue of the sky and the blue of the sea is amazing. This must be what they call a spectacular view . Of course, a tsunami must have hit here during the earthquake as well . Nature is both beautiful and terrifying. Now , after this, I’m heading to Kesennuma city . Today I’ll be using the Sanriku Expressway again. I got off the Sanriku Expressway and arrived in Kesennuma city. It was Kesennuma Fish Market in Kesennuma city, Miyagi prefecture. Right in front of me was the sea with many boats parked. Beyond this large elevator is the Kesennuma Plaza Hotel. There is a restaurant here, but this time I’m eating lunch somewhere else, so I came here to buy souvenirs. I got some grilled sardines and saury tsukudani. Now, let’s go for lunch. Yesterday I ate seafood from Kesennuma, but today I’m going to eat another Kesennuma specialty . This is the place to go. Kesennuma Hormone Market in Kesennuma city, Miyagi prefecture. “Ofuku” – Kesennuma, where the slaughterhouse was originally located, is where people started eating offal about 80 years ago. Kesennuma offal is characterized by being served with shredded cabbage and Worcestershire sauce. After a minute of waiting , the meal arrived. The “Offal Set Meal” (980 yen) was quite filling. This pork offal was washed in the washing machine in front of the restaurant (!), likely a result of streamlining the process to wash a large amount of offal. The offal looked fresh, with the fragrant aroma of charcoal wafting through the air. Freshly cooked rice, plenty of seaweed soup, shredded cabbage, pickled cucumber , and a mug of water! The offal served with Worcestershire sauce is quite unique, but apparently its origins lie in the fact that a man from Mie Prefecture started a Kesennuma offal restaurant and seasoned it with Worcestershire sauce, inspired by Yokkaichi’s famous tonteki. (Very pleased!) The meat was cooked to perfection . First, we started with the restaurant’s original Ofuku sauce, a standard soy sauce-based yakiniku sauce . Delicious! We immediately followed it up with rice! The seaweed soup was also delicious . The fat from the offal was released, and the heat rose! Next, I tried the Ofuku sauce with shredded cabbage and Worcestershire sauce. The moderate acidity added to the complex flavor made it surprisingly good! Grilling horumon over charcoal in the middle of the day was irresistible . Kesennuma horumon was delicious. Thank you for the meal! My next destination is Minamisanriku Town, but I’ll stop by a roadside station. I can see it now. Otani Kaigan Roadside Station in Kesennuma City, Miyagi Prefecture, has a signboard featuring the ocean sunfish that can be caught in this area. Otani Beach is right in front of it. Apparently, before the earthquake, ocean sunfish were kept in aquariums. Also, JR Otani Kaigan Station is located on the premises. Before the earthquake, it was a train station, but now it is a BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) station. There is a cafe, tourist information corner, and a direct-from-farm market. In the fresh fish section , there is an aquarium with various fish swimming in it. Apparently , this roadside station appeared in the film “Suzume no Tojimari” directed by Makoto Shinkai. I bought a peanut cream sandwich that the main character ate. Now, let’s head to Minami Sanriku. I will be using the Sanriku Expressway again. I got off at Minami Sanriku Kaigan IC. This is where I arrived: “Minami San Minami Sanriku Roadside Station” in Minami Sanriku Town, Motoyoshi District, Miyagi Prefecture. Next time
車で1週間かけて宮城県を一周する3日目、石巻にある津波伝承館へ訪れる。その後気仙沼の民宿に泊まってメカジキのハーモニカやホヤ等三陸の海の幸を堪能する。翌日は気仙沼ホルモンの人気店へ。
0:00 前回のあらすじ
0:37 石巻南浜津波復興祈念公園
2:30 みやぎ東日本大震災津波伝承館
5:44 民宿 さかや
12:45 大理石海岸
14:27 気仙沼お魚いちば
16:01 気仙沼ホルモン お福
20:19 道の駅 大谷海岸
22:34 次回予告
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