La Corse : du désert des Agriates aux falaises de Bonifacio | Méditerranée | Trésors du Patrimoine
This helicopter has just left Ajaccio
to head towards one of the most beautiful regions of the island located in the far north.
On board: Aurélie Harnequaux. She is an engineer at the
regional directorate of cultural affairs in Corsica. She discovered the island 6 years ago, and since then
she has been fighting to preserve its heritage. Today, she is going on a mission
to Cap Corse: a 40km long peninsula, which points towards the continent.
It first flies over the Giraglia lighthouse, the northernmost point of the island.
Built around 1830, it is listed as a “historic monument”.
“It’s a fairly simple architecture, but it’s the installation on a
sublime site that makes it completely exceptional. This is the heritage of Corsica. It is
not its architecture, we have much more beautiful lighthouses elsewhere,
but built on this site, it remains completely exceptional and therefore heritage. »
Cap Corse is dotted with high-altitude villages, where the inhabitants once settled to
protect themselves from the winds and attackers. Each has a marina below, with its fishermen’s houses.
Facing the open sea, it is a unique region on the island.
“We are on the trade routes, it is the only part of Corsica where the people are
seafarers and not people from the mountain shepherds. They are facing outwards. »
Today, Aurélie is passionate about an exceptional heritage, which has marked
the architecture of the villages of Cap Corse. These are the sumptuous villas that we
call American palaces. They were built in the 19th century by
Corsicans who went to seek their fortune in the Americas. There are nearly 140 of them in Cap Corse,
all located on the most beautiful viewpoints. “Here I find that we have cases
of architecture which both stand out and do not destroy anything, which enhance an already magnificent landscape. »
Aurélie photographs and lists these palaces, because very few of them are protected. Built
over a hundred years ago, many are under threat. The one that particularly interests him
is Stopielle Castle. A building constructed in 1875.
This morning, Aurélie is going there with Michel Edouard Nigaglioni, the director of heritage in Bastia.
“It’s a perfect example of this type of American house. It has a nice volume. It is
really the cubic mass which stands out in the landscape and then an ordered,
regular facade. Compared to traditional housing with plastered facades,
much smaller volumes, and then irregular, it is immediately noticeable, so it is
true that from the beginning, we called it a castle: Stopielle castle. »
“We can feel that it has a somewhat ostentatious architecture.
We also have an exceptional view. So a house largely open to its landscape. ”
If the exterior is demonstrative, the interior is even more astonishing.
“Here, from the vestibule, we display the trip. ” … These exceptional decorations evoke
travel in the 19th century… In 1875, the train had just been inaugurated in Corsica.
“What is astonishing is that we have an entire wall that evokes a landscape with
a trompe l’oeil staging of a terrace or a balcony
that opens onto a large landscape. For me, it is the first discovery
and the first time that I have a decor of this quality from the vestibule which is
also large, so that too is an important element in the house. »
On the ceiling, the family chose to tell the story of their journey to the Americas, with four coats of arms.
“First coat of arms: Corsica with the Moor’s head which signifies the Corsican origins
of the family, opposite the city of Marseille which is the first port of embarkation for
the New World, and then here, we see the destination of the United States of America and opposite
Mexico. They must have maintained close trade relations with Mexico. »
In the 19th century, to escape poverty or out of a thirst for adventure, many young people from Cap Corse
left to seek their fortune, mainly in Puerto Rico. They get rich in the
sugar cane or coffee trade. Years later, these ”
American Corsicans” had these sumptuous palaces built on their native land.
On the first floor: the large living room. With this sumptuous room…the
family displays its success. “Wow. Imposing! It’s a mix here…
Yes. Each panotage has its scenes! It overlaps! »
“It’s an eclectic style that takes ornaments from various styles: baroque,
Renaissance, neoclassical and mixes all of that, because we are at the end of the 19th century and we take
the best from each style and we add them and we obtain very very busy decorations. »
Above the portrait of the sponsor, medallions tell the story of the Americas. On the door frames:
astonishing trompe-l’oeil decorations reinforce the palatial feel of the room.
“We have the most beautiful ones I’ve ever seen, right now anyway. ”
But the masterpiece is this allegory of America.
Symbolized by an Indian woman with her loincloth and her parrot.
A theme regularly treated by European painters since the 16th century.
There are only two examples in Cap Corse.
“For me, an allegory of America of this nature at the end of Cap Corse, well I
mean, we are thousands of kilometers away, and then there is something that happens and it is
quite strong symbolically and preserving this living room, this house, is really trying to
preserve a trait of identification of Corsica, and in particular in its relations
with the outside world and with the continent. » Faithful to their native land, the “
American Corsicans” also had sumptuous tombs built towards the end of the 19th century…
Aurélie visits one of the most astonishing: this tomb with its three domes.
Located in the village of Pino, it is that of the Piccioni family.
This monumental staircase leads to a chapel. “It’s something very particular to
Corsica, this idea of returning to the land of origin, and even the funeral chapel, I mean,
it’s difficult to express, to explain even for someone who comes from outside
too, because one has the impression that the land is an inalienable good. I think it’s
something heritage-related, very strong, very Corsican. ”
Inside, the finest materials were used for decoration.
“So here we have proof of success in the Americas with a fortune that allows him
to build his funeral chapel entirely in marble. It’s true that it seems to me to be
a bit of a crazy gesture, but we are indeed in this funerary heritage that we are talking about, with its
possibilities for a family to have its own chapel above the tomb. »
A few kilometers away, Aurélie continues her visit: at the
Mariani house, located in the village of Rogliano. Deserted for decades,
it is almost in ruins. Built in 1861, it belongs to
several heirs: it is jointly owned. Today, the municipality wants to
buy it back to rehabilitate it. But the owners are
still hesitant to sell it. “Here we enter the Mariani property.
* Aurélie: It’s a little more dilapidated on the facade. Aurélie meets Patrice Quilici, the mayor
of the village, to take stock of the situation. Aurélie: “Oh my goodness.
* You see this magnificent staircase. * Oh my. The railings
are already torn off. This is new. I thought we would go so far as to lay down
the stones. This is new in fact, we are starting to dismantle the house and we are taking
pieces with us. Do you think we would go so far as to lay stones? Yes, maybe, I don’t know.
* Look at these magnificent stones, which will not last long. This is what people take apart
, the cupboards were made of chestnut, but they don’t have much value.
Look at this magnificent fireplace, it’s all surrounded by marble. There are always
pieces on the floor. What a disaster! What a pity! It doesn’t seem believable!
I don’t know if it will hold up in winter, because we do get rained on straight away. » The
only testimony to the splendor of the past: these paintings with these finely drawn animals.
These are unique examples in Cap Corse, which Aurélie photographs,
before they disappear. “At least we can document the house, we will have
all the decor in memory. But I believe that today this is what we can do, but I don’t
see what more we can do. It’s true that we are a little helpless.
“It’s a masterpiece in danger, which must be saved at all costs… What can
I do? As mayor of the commune of Rogliano, I no longer know who to contact, what to do…
In my opinion, it’s going to get worse and worse. ” In the neighboring village, a
landowner took matters into his own hands. The Villa Saint-Jacques is the only
American house currently under restoration in Cap Corse.
Jean-Pierre Massari, its owner, wants to save it at all costs.
“It’s extraordinary to see who comes back to life, finally, it’s a resurrection, practically.
Seeing all these people working on these houses, on these decors, on the renovation
of the whole thing, we are really looking forward to seeing the result, we want to be there in two years. ”
In addition to the decor, Jean-Pierre Massari had the many objects that
furnished this house restored, such as this Napoleon III style pedestal table and this mirror.
Marie Dominique Bellone is a gilder. She lives in Cap Corse and is
proud to participate in this work. “I feel like I’m doing my
bit. These are things that our children would never know, if we do
n’t do what is necessary to keep them alive now, it would be a shame. ”
And little by little, every detail of this 19th century house comes back to life.
It’s extraordinary to find it again and to find its brilliance, well, certainly,
that we didn’t know, but its brilliance from the beginning. “We’re putting it in place. »
Once the restoration is complete, Jean-Pierre Massari will open the doors
of his palace to the villagers. The adventure of these emigrants also had a
profound impact on the architecture of Bastia. Their story is written in the stones of
one of the city’s most famous squares. Saint Nicholas Square. In the 19th century, they built
prestigious buildings all around this square. Enrique Vivoni is a
Puerto Rican professor of architecture. He is a descendant of Corsicans who
emigrated to Puerto Rico in the 19th century. For 6 years, he has been showing
his students these palaces of Bastia. Starting with the Antonetti Palace.
It is the first one built by a “Corsican American” in the city.
It has a pediment and Corinthian-style capitals, which
surmount Carrara marble columns. By studying this heritage, some of these young people,
also descendants of American Corsicans, learn part of their own history.
“I didn’t know Corsica, I had no idea what it was. But little
by little, I understood the connection between Corsica and Puerto Rico and what these
two islands have brought to each other. Since then, I really appreciate Corsica. »
“For the Corsican emigrants, the most incredible thing was to live in a setting like this.
After living for 30 years on a hacienda in Puerto Rico, in a completely desolate place, there
was no village, just a house lost in the middle of the sugar cane fields.
And then, coming to live in a place like this, it was really very impressive. ”
And upstairs, this ceiling created by Tuscan masters in the 19th century, arouses admiration.
It is covered in Putis. These angels are classic figures of Italian painting.
“It’s incredible: a ceiling with so much detail. In Puerto Rico,
no such cap exists. » “It’s truly a privilege to be
here. A privilege. It was really to appreciate this type of art that I came. ”
At the origin of a real artistic movement, the American Corsicans bring
a new breath of fresh air to the city and become a model for the population.
Thanks to them, Bastia is modernizing. In the 19th century, a new town
with wide boulevards appeared right next to the old town, dating
from the 17th century, with its winding streets. And this is where
Enrique’s students are meeting this afternoon. Originally, Bastia was only the
marina of a small mountain village. But in the 14th century, a
Genoese governor had the idea of building a stronghold on this promontory.
This bastion gives its name to the city. Bastia then became the capital of the island
until the French conquest in 1768. At the foot of the governors’ palace,
Enrique and his students took part in a procession, which would leave its mark on them.
Introduced to the island in the Middle Ages, the brotherhoods are made up of lay people who
once came to the aid of the most deprived. Now they preserve certain
traditions such as polyphonic sacred singing. “There is a whole musical heritage, which is
attached to the brotherhoods and each brotherhood has its songs and its way of singing.
So it’s part of the culture. » Today, the brothers meet in
one of the most beautiful Baroque churches on the island: the Oratory of the Holy Cross.
… with its Louis XV style decor and its
Renaissance period coffered ceiling. By listening to these sacred songs, Enrique
and his students immerse themselves in the lives of their ancestors.
“My family is from Sisco and there is family from Santini, another from Paoli. There are many
descendants of Corsica in Puerto Rico and for us the situation here today is extremely unbelievable
. Thank you very much. » In a few days, Enrique and his
group will leave Bastia to continue their visit to Cap Corse, whose
coasts are dotted with watchtowers. They were built in the
16th century by the Genoese to protect the island from Barbary invasions. Facing the sea, Cap Corse
alone has around thirty of them. Connecting the towers, here is the customs officers’ path.
It runs along the entire tip of this peninsula. Formerly used to track
smugglers, it is now visited by more than 30,000 visitors each summer…
To preserve it, this site has been classified as a Nature Reserve.
Alain Camoin is the most ardent defender of this exceptional heritage.
He is a curator and knows this sanctuary in every detail. A
local boy, he has always traveled this coastline.
“What I like about it, of course, is that I am mainly in
my office in the open air and I really feel at home. We’re taking it over a little
bit, even though we shouldn’t, I mean. We go to work in the morning, but in a way, we
are quite privileged, we recognize it. We are in a place that is fabulous, fantastic,
and it is really enriching to work in a place like Cap Corse. »
The tip of Cap Corse is one of the wildest areas of the island,
Alain takes us to one of his favorite places: this cove.
“It’s a place of some peace. It is nature that speaks, we hear nature. In Corsica,
there are still a few like that. We are lucky enough to have one on the tip of
the Cape, and we will keep it preciously. » These preserved waters are home to
astonishing underwater flora and fauna… Several species that are disappearing
elsewhere find refuge here because their fishing is strictly regulated… Some, like the grouper or
the spider crab, are protected. To prevent poaching and ensure respect for
this site, Alain patrols every day, among boaters and fishermen.
“What do you think?” Que Fatte Senior » This morning, he spotted these Italians, in the
middle of a spearfishing party. “What are you doing? I’m the park ranger,
gentlemen. The park ranger. Nature reserve, natural park.
Italian: Dove? Control, por favor.
Che? Control, that’s fine, that’s all.
“I’m checking to see if there have been any spiders collected, they’re a little surprised,
because we came with an unmarked boat, so they don’t always agree.
This is a classic Italian case. Just a control, señor, por favor. Grazie. It’s
just a control, please. You know you’re in a natural park.
Very well. Can I see,
please? It’s a good catch! Yes, they’re sea bream.
You know all the regulations. Yes, don’t worry.
Good luck! So calm down!”
“They’ll come back to port, they’ll say they’ve been controlled, and that will be
useful to us later, because we know that at the tip of Cap Corse, we can possibly be checked.”
At Cap Corse, Alain watches over another natural setting, which has helped
save an endangered species. These are these 3 tiny islets
: the Finocchiarola Islands. They are a refuge for bird colonies.
Because since 1987, they have been protected and prohibited from any landing.
“It’s really their domain, it’s really not mine. From time to time,
indeed, we make a small landing because we have to, but we are never
welcome, we are never invited to the islands with the birds, never, never, never, you
have to know that, especially for us.” These islets are the kingdom of the gulls.
And among them lives an extremely rare species: Audouin’s gull.
In the 1970s, there were only 3,000 pairs left in the world.
Today, they are nearly of 20,000. But this population is still very vulnerable.
To assess the births, Alain comes to check the condition of the eggs, and he has to act quickly.
“We arrive at their house, we really disturb them , we are in their garden, in their
sanctuary and when we go to do our survey, we will have to speed up and quickly return to the boat
and make sure they rest because if they release the eggs for more than a few
minutes the nesting risks failing.” This islet is under close surveillance, because
it is one of the only sites in the Mediterranean where Audouin’s gulls breed.
“A nest with one egg, a nest with two eggs, a nest with three eggs…”
But for Alain, it is a great disappointment, because many eggs have been preyed on by other birds.
“There is one there, but it has a problem. There will be no birth, since the egg is crushed.”
“That is complete panic. There is already ants, it is open: there are already
problems in nesting. This allows us to realize that already
the nesting is not going to be good, because there are a lot of eggs that are broken, that
are abandoned, so there you go, that’s why I think that the Audouin’s gull this year, it
will not be fantastic. If there are one or two young fledglings, it will already be very very good. ”
The Audouin’s gull is the emblem of the tip of Cap Corse.
Because it is to save it that this part of coastline was preserved.
“When 25 years ago, people asked me what we did, I said, I take care of birds, they
laughed in my face, telling me that it was not a job. Mentalities have evolved, so
now we know what we are talking about, we are more attentive to the protection of nature.
Our small colony of Cap Corse, we really cares about it and we protect it.”
We set off a few kilometers from the tip of Cap Corse, on the west side…
… Here is the village of Barretalli. Until the middle of the last century, these
hills were entirely cultivated. Terraced gardens stretched from
the hamlets to the sea. They produced this strange fruit, which was
one of the riches of Cap Corse: the citron. Until today, it had
completely disappeared from these landscapes. “A very, very beautiful fruit.”
Xavier Calizi is an entrepreneur. Five years ago, he made a crazy bet. He
replanted citrons throughout his village. Today is harvest day.
Tony, one of his friends, came to lend him a hand.
“Look how beautiful that one is! * We’re going to start emptying a little. »
The citron is the first citrus fruit to be cultivated on the island.
“Those ones are beautiful!” Gorgeous !
Stunning. And as soon as you scratch it a little, as soon as
you touch the pores, it’s magnified tenfold.” “It’s like a lemon, it smells like
lemon, but a little stronger than lemon. It smells very good…It’s very fragrant. »
To revive the cultivation of this fruit, Xavier rehabilitated old plantations in his village.
He cleared the dry stone terraces buried under the scrubland, then restored them.
“We try to preserve, I would say, what the elders did, to restore it to how it was before. »
“We’re going to pick the citrons. Do you know which ones to pick up?
* We start with the biggest ones. They will come off on their own if
you twist them a little. So ! *That’s good, come on, let’s put it in. »
“The citron is the heritage of Cap Corse, it is the heritage of Corsica too, we must
defend it, tell it and share it. ” Because here in the 19th century, many
families grew citron. Sold as candied fruit, it
was exported to Europe and the United States. With 45,000 tonnes per year, Corsica
was the world’s leading producer. But in the 20th century, its consumption fell and
this fruit gradually disappeared from Cap Corse. Once the harvest is complete, the fruit is
transported to the heart of the village… to the wash house. They are soaked in water for a
week, so that they lose their bitterness. “ I think this one is going to sink!” Yes, it’s good. »
« We wanted to stay with a somewhat traditional method, because we could have found
other ways to wash it, but I think that a basin can remain part of our identity, to be
able to do it like that and then it’s nice, we have a good time, it’s also a celebration. »
Alongside his plantations, Xavier has set up a craft workshop to produce candied citron.
As soon as he has a little free time, he gets his hands dirty.…
Once washed, the pulp and seeds are removed, … and the rest of the fruit is
preserved in syrup for several days. Xavier is not a
professional confectioner. To process this fruit, he had to learn everything by himself.
“I tried to find out a bit here and there, and then to meet people who had
grandmother’s recipes and then tried to work on it a bit like people did before
: using the same processes in the artisanal sense. » And the candied citron, which was once the
flagship of Corsican confectionery: here it is. This evening, Xavier invited the inhabitants of his
village to share a meal around this citrus fruit. For the main course, he prepared a
local fish for them, dentex with citron peel, which he cooked in salt.
And two hours later. “Come to the table!” At the table »
“ It’s true that we heard about it,
but there were no more in the village. We knew it was a citrus fruit, that it
looked like a lemon, that it was big. So, we discovered it with Xavier and his plantation. ”
It’s a pleasure and seeing people enjoying themselves like that is a success.
I think that afterwards, we can be fulfilled. Direction La Castagniccia, south of Bastia.
This region owes its name to the chestnut trees that cover the hills… on top of which are
small, remote villages. Near one of them is
the Convent of St. Francis. It is one of the 70 convents on the island.
It belongs to a private individual. It was built in the 16th century and then completed
by Franciscan monks in the 18th century. It is a large building with a
Baroque bell tower with an octagonal dome. And like many convents in Corsica, it needs to be restored.
An unusual project is coming to an end: roof repairs.
“We are on the last part of the roof. » We meet Aurélie Harnequaux again.
She is welcomed by Jean Filippi, the site architect.
“So, here we have the last part of the roof.
We started some time ago and this is a bit of an end. ”
Despite the scale of the work, the owner chose to redo everything the old-fashioned way.
It took 7 months to cover the roof with these stones: slates.
“Each stone is cut with a hammer. There we really have a fish scale! »
« So there, this is the truly traditional technique. »
“It’s nice to see a slate roof like that. Great.
This one is durable roofing. » « What is particularly successful is what we
call the valley, it is the rounding, which is truly exceptional for me and I
am delighted today to be able to see that we are still capable today of being able to
achieve it in the traditional way. » Before the roof, the cloister was restored.
In the 18th century, this convent was run by Saint-Théophile: a monk
famous throughout the island. At the time, 26 religious people lived self-sufficiently
in these buildings, in extreme poverty. Here is Alain the owner. Today,
he lives in the convent that he shows us around. “So here we are in the
Franciscan kitchen which was very modest. The Franciscans attached no importance
to food. You can see the chimney which is typically a Corsican chimney which was
in fact originally the mouth of the bread oven. And so you have a small kitchen which
opens onto another room of the same size, also small, which is not at all a
Cistercian refectory as we know it in Burgundy, but on the contrary a very modest refectory,
where we eat quickly, what is quickly cooked here, in a rather smoky atmosphere.
All these little people lived quickly without paying much attention to the food. ”
This wing, still under construction, housed the monks’ cells.
“The principle here is to take 3 cells, with two cells to make a bedroom and
the third to make a bathroom. » The owner wants to show us a curiosity:
a cell that directly overlooked the church. “It is called the bedridden cell, which was
built by Saint Theophilus to allow monks who were physically unable to
leave their cells to attend the liturgy. The window that gives access to the heart allows
a bedridden person to be on his bed, to hear and see a mass right before his eyes. ”
Thanks to his work, Alain is bringing this place back to life and opening its doors to the people of the village.
And the procession in honor of Saint Theophilus is reborn.
Today, about a hundred people came to attend the event.
“I invite everyone here to have a friendly drink.
Some pizzas, which are heating in the oven, which you may have
seen during the procession, arriving piping hot on this table, at the foot of this maple tree.
“Anyone who has known this region can only be happy to see this ensemble again.
It is a promontory that can be seen from afar. It is very nice to
see that it is no longer a ruin. » Further north, on the eastern coast. The island has another
little-known natural area: the Biguglia pond. Located a few kilometers from Bastia,
it is the largest pond in Corsica. Isolated from the sea by this long strip of sand, this
lagoon is one of the jewels of the Isle of Beauty. With its brackish waters,
meadows and reed beds, it is rich in extraordinary biodiversity.
Classified as a Nature Reserve, the Biguglia pond has become an internationally renowned sanctuary
for water birds. They find refuge there during
the winter or reproduce there. On this early autumn morning, the
coastal guards crisscross the pond. Paul Poli is an ornithologist.
For almost 15 years, he has been observing and studying birds.
And on the pond, the situation has changed. Today, nearly 20,000
birds, from more than 200 different species, stay here each year.
And among them: the Great Egret is making a comeback. “Twenty years ago, we didn’t have these species
: they are from the wading bird family. Here, we are on the Biguglia pond with 250 individuals. It is
a species that was protected in the 1970s, and today the population is increasing
in almost all wetlands. » This morning Paul comes to observe a
particular species: the pink flamingo. These birds breed in the Camargue,
Turkey or Sardinia, then they winter on the pond. The first ones have just arrived.
To learn more about their migration, Paul counts them regularly.
“There aren’t many: just about fifteen. There are 12 of them: 7 young people
and 5 adults. The adults are already bigger and they are very
colorful. And the young people are white. There are young people from this year, who
arrived there at the end of the summer. » «First he looks where the other individuals are
who are swimming or feeding, so he will make one turn, two turns, three turns
and then he will land, he will spread his wings so we will see all the remiges of the
wings and he stays with his colleagues. ” These flamingos will number nearly
a thousand in the middle of winter. Heading for the West Coast…
Between Balagne and Cap Corse,…. Saint Florent. Built at water level, it is an ancient
Genoese city with a turbulent history. During the Renaissance, the bay of Saint-Florent
was the scene of clashes between major European powers,
such as France and Spain. The presence of wrecks in these waters bears witness to this.
A few hundred meters from the Mortella Tower: a team of
underwater archaeologists discovered an exceptional wreck.
“ We inform you that we are going to
begin archaeological excavations in the Gulf of Saint Florent. »
« Put the bar to the right. » Arnaud Casenave de la Roche is an underwater archaeologist
. He is a specialist in Spanish galleons. With his team, he is preparing to study an astonishing wreck, which he spotted 7 years ago.
“16th century wrecks are rare, we talk a lot about Spanish galleons,
they are part of the collective imagination, but ultimately, we know very little about them.
And the site of La Mortella is exceptional in this respect ; there are no more than 4
or 5 wrecks from this period that have been studied in the Mediterranean. »
During the winter of 1555, to escape a storm, a Spanish fleet
took shelter in the bay of Saint-Florent. A French squadron also took refuge there.
But very quickly it is a confrontation. After fierce fighting, the
French fleet sank the Spanish galleon. It is these remains that these
divers set out to explore. They are divers or archaeologists.
Every two years, they return voluntarily for several weeks to study
the wreck and unearth new objects. All are experts in the great depths.
The wreck lies nearly 40 meters underwater. Here is one of the most exceptional remains
: this anchor several meters long…. The boat’s frame has been preserved
in the sediment for 5 centuries. These structural elements constitute
part of the ship’s hull. A little further on are the remains of cannons. They were called bombards.
There are at least ten of them. Divers are looking for the slightest
clue to learn more about life on board and the ship’s final moments.
It’s a real work of patience. They clear the various remains
of the galleon with this vacuum cleaner. And for this new campaign,
they have a remote-controlled explorer robot equipped with a camera.
“Pass to the right of the anchorage. * Here it is »
Thanks to this innovative technology, they examine the structure of the ship in detail.
“There, on the right. * We will try to get closer.
* Try to stabilize yourself there. ” By observing the hull of the boat, Arnaud
hopes to understand how it was sunk. “There you see, it’s the end of the
ribs that is completely charred, it’s the part that was burned. ”
As the search progresses, we understand a little bit better each time
, what happened to this ship, it’s a bit like an investigation is a thread that we pull and this
year is an important year, we understand that this ship, perhaps under the effect of an action,
perhaps an explosion, perhaps the shock of the boat when it hit the bottom, caused a
tear in the wood lengthwise and the wreck actually split in two. ”
In the middle of the hull, the team has just found an artillery piece: a cannonball.
A precious object that will allow us to learn more about the art of war in the 16th century.
“A cannonball, made of stone!” ” It is whole and weighs about twenty kilos.
For archaeologists, this is a pleasant surprise. “We arrive at something that has been buried
there for five centuries, we discover it and we bring it up. That’s what makes it fun! »
“Can you imagine the cannon mouth that fires this type of cannonball! That must have hurt a lot! »
Return to port. Once the day is over, Arnaud and his
team compare their discovery with the cannonballs recovered during previous excavations.
They are made of stone. They were probably stored on the galleon.
François Gendron is an Archaeologist at the National Museum of Natural History in
Paris: he is participating in the expertise. The soldiers who were on board
had to be kept busy at sea; they were the ones who made the cannonballs. They
transformed themselves from soldiers into stonemasons, so that’s why we have cannonballs that are
quite round and others where we feel that the artist’s hand was not quite perfect.
“We can clearly see that this bullet is very interesting, because it bears many traces
of scissors linked to its manufacture. The person who cut it really
tried to make it nice and round, and there may have been a manufacturing error, because
he scalped this part here on the side a little. » To make them, the soldiers used
stones recovered from the ports where they stopped.
“We know that the ship, if it was transporting serpentine balls,
for example, passed through an area where serpentine exists, which is
true in Italy in the region of Genoa, but also in Corsica, and the analysis
of all these rocks ultimately allows us to retrace the route of this ship. »
Over the next three weeks, Arnaud hopes to find more clues to learn
more about this great Renaissance vessel. The next day: very close to Saint-Florent.
On one of the bay’s beaches : a curious machine.
“The little beast of the Gulf of Saint Florent. You will be seated here at the back, I
will be right in front of you, we will slowly put the boat in the water, we will move
300 meters away from the bathing area, pick up speed, take off, and
off we go, we will visit the whole desert. » Olivier Léonetti is a paraglider. He is about
to be in command of a flying boat. This morning, he is taking a lover
of this site: Michel Murraciole, the delegate of the coastal conservation agency in Corsica.
The flying boat: it is a zodiac equipped with a hang-glider wing…
…which Olivier steers by hand. They will fly over one of the splendors
of the island: the Agriates desert. In Corsica: part of the coast has
been spared from urbanization. The most beautiful example is found here.
Paradise beaches as far as the eye can see, without a trace of concrete. Michel Murraciole discovers
these landscapes for the first time, seen from the sky. “There are some great lights there. It’s
extraordinary. It’s very shallow, which helps bring out the color.
* It’s really this feeling of immensity. That’s really what the Agriates are. »
Inland: no paved roads, but an unspoiled landscape.
If it has remained almost untouched, it is thanks to the action of the coastal conservatory.
He is the largest landowner on the island. Since 1975, he has been acquiring land near
the sea, to protect it permanently. “At the time, there were tourism projects,
companies that had bought very large areas and, with local elected officials, the
conservatory embarked on this adventure which consisted of putting
the puzzle together and buying these different properties. The first to Corsican families,
but also to these large companies, which had bought several thousand hectares. ”
To safeguard this fragile ecosystem, the use of the site has been regulated. The
beaches are accessible by boat or via hiking trails.
Inland, most of the tracks have been closed and the number of 4x4s is limited.
“You see, spaces like this are going to become completely exceptional
!” Completely preserved, wild. There are not many places in the Mediterranean where spaces like this will remain
protected in the coming decades. » This site is protected, but it
still remains over-visited. In the middle of August, holidaymakers
storm the Agriates. We are here on one of the largest beaches. Hundreds of people come here every
day to enjoy its crystal clear waters. So all summer long, the
coastal guards watch over this nature. This morning, Michel Murracciole
accompanies two of them: Laurent Quercy and Dominique Casanova.
At dawn, they crisscross the 35 km of coastline. “It’s the daily tour, it’s very
important especially in the summer, to mark the presence, to inform people. If there are people
camping, sleeping on the beaches. We have to explain to them, make them leave. »
The guards comb every cove, looking for campers.
“There is nothing!” It’s good Laurent! »
« We’re going to take a little tour over there in the area, that’s where they hide most of the time
, and that’s where they often have a BBQ, we’re going to go see. ”
These young people spent the night on the beach: which is forbidden.
Dominique will remind them of the rules. “Hello, are you French?”
Camper: – Yes. – All right. So coast guard. Along
the entire Agriates coast, camping and bivouacking, that is to say what you have done, is prohibited.
-Ah yes, okay, but it was to settle in, we didn’t put up the tent.
It’s not just the tent, the sleeping bag too, on the entire Agriates coast,
camping and bivouacking are prohibited. I wish you a pleasant stay. Pack everything up well. Thank you very much !
“For me, we could have a bivouac here, because we are discreet, we don’t pollute,
besides, we collected the rubbish of the people who passed by yesterday, we really do
this responsibly, but it’s true that if it’s not allowed, I understand. »
“It’s a little paradise, beautiful beaches, we stay one night, we stay two nights, we
stay three nights, it can be repeated with 150, 200, 300 people and it can go very quickly. »
Dominique is leaving for new interventions, because last night many people slept
under the stars on the beaches. Coast Guard! Please fold the
sleeping bags fairly quickly. You are in a protected natural environment, we do
this every morning, you are not alone. -Camping and bivouacking, i.e. sleeping
in sleeping bags, is prohibited! Dominique: -Summer camps? You make
the sleeping bags disappear relatively quickly, you can stay, there is no problem.
Host: -That’s what we were going to do. -So the sleeping bags, pretty quickly
! Thank you, and have a nice day. -Thank you very much.”
That day, more than 50 people camped on the beaches.
“A few years ago, there were a lot more people than today, that is to say
the whole pine forest was a campsite, there was a tent every meter. People
came, camped, spent weeks, even months, it was a huge campsite,
on the beach, everywhere, fires. So now, the vegetation inside
has taken over, it’s starting to grow back and it’s very noticeable. »
A little further, the Ostriconi beach and its river.
Before flowing into the sea, the meanders of the Ostriconi form
marshes through the sand and scrubland. They are rich in exceptional biodiversity,
which the Coastal Conservatory wants to preserve. A few hours before
nightfall, a delicate operation is being prepared: capturing a bat.
To do this, these naturalists spread an extremely fine net over their hunting territory.
“It’s the same net as for birds, except the mesh is a little finer.
The objective of the capture is to assess the state of conservation of this environment,
knowing that bats are at the end of the food chain and therefore are a good
bioindicator of the quality of the environment. ” They hope to capture 5 or 6
different species out of the 22 present in Corsica. In the darkness, the waiting begins.
To locate them, this device detects their cries. “There she is, hop there!” ”
And a few moments later, a first bat is trapped.
“She nibbles the net and can get free quite easily, and to avoid stress,
we try to go quite quickly. She is not very happy. There you go, we’re freeing the feet
now, it’s almost done, it’s a pretty quick operation, look, it’s freed. ”
These naturalists have captured a rare species. “She’s fat!”
– This one is rather beautiful! -We are dealing with a young individual, we see it
when we shine the light from below, when you look at the calcification of the joints, we see that
it is not completely calcified, it is still cartilaginous. We see small white windows like
this, it’s typical of young individuals, this is an animal that was born this year,
it must be two months old in total, -It’s its first flight. ”
Knowing these species allows us to better protect them.
“Here we go…” ” We also have a very special responsibility for certain species and so these inventories allow us
to identify the type of heritage that needs to be preserved, what measures
sometimes need to be taken to safeguard a particular species or promote another species. »
The next morning, back on the beach “You see Sandra, there, it’s the start,
it’s the beginning of the Agriates desert. A sanctuary! »
With his cowboy looks, François Vescovali is one of the
pioneers of horse riding in Corsica. Today, he takes this group of riders
to discover a little-known part of the desert, only accessible on horseback. We follow them in the footsteps
of a typical Corsican heritage. …in the depths of the scrubland,
where the vegetation thickens. “No one ever passes by here. »
This impenetrable area served as a refuge for legendary figures.
“You see, this is the bandit’s house. ” This cave has been converted into
a tiny troglodyte house, well hidden from view.
“It’s very small, François. ” For Sandra, who lives in the
region, it’s a surprise. “The bush is so dense, you
wonder where it comes from. It’s so isolated, you have to know it. ”
In the 19th century, they were nicknamed “honor bandits.”
They took to the bush to escape the police and the revenge
of the victims’ families. They took refuge there until the early 1930s.
“They lived in nature: in the “Palazzu Verde”: it was the kingdom
of the bandits. The green palace. It’s always exciting to know
that there is someone here who has been left alone with their dog for 20 years. ”
To reach this heavenly beach, they must cross a tricky passage.
“There, expect to have a nice downhill section, to go down.
You let your horse do it, they’re 4x4s! They have goat feet,
that’s it, and you let them do it! ” For Blandine, who comes from
Paris, it’s a first. “Between the shades of blue, the shades of
green, it’s a real eye-catcher. And what’s more, to share this with our horses, to
discover this on horseback, to see that they too enjoy going to cool off in the water.
It’s truly a moment that will remain etched in your mind. »
The group sets off again into the bush, to discover another landscape. The Agriates were not always uninhabited!
Here, there were once orchards, wheat fields and thousands of olive trees.
Until the beginning of the last century, this territory was exploited in spring and
summer by farmers from Cap Corse and the rest of the year by shepherds.
They lived in these small houses called paillers.
“Look around you, you have the sheepfolds,
the goat habitats and the goat pens at the same time. -Is it actually a village?
-Yes, it’s a village which, in my opinion, must have had around forty sheepfolds. »
“The true nature of Corsica is not on the beaches. It is earned. You have to go
a little further and then you really feel it. I think if we close our eyes a little,
we can imagine how it was before, we can even imagine the sounds and the smells. » After the First World War,
the Agriates became empty. The crops are abandoned.
This landscape becomes a desert of stones and scrubland.
Today, the Coastal Conservatory is fighting to ensure that the Agriates reconnect with tradition
and are once again occupied by breeders. This track, which leads to a
sheepfold, has been completely renovated. We find Michel Murraciole there.
“We have re-established a couple of young breeders for a few years
who have a herd of goats. » He has an appointment with the only shepherd of the Agriates.
Yannick left his village to settle here. He raises 300 goats in this expanse of scrubland.
As in the past, they come to graze here between October and the end of June.
“They live all the time, let loose in the wild. I
only bring them in to milk them, and when it rains, they come down to shelter
and sleep in the rocks up there.” Thanks to the land made available to him by
the Coastal Conservatory for the past 6 years, Yannick has been able to expand his herd.
“Michel, how are you?” “How are you ? They haven’t been too
hot, the goats, up there just now.” “ Oh, I have to ride them.” “
They worked hard this year.” “ Yes, perfect.”
Maintaining livestock farming in this area helps preserve it.
Sound of an interview: Michel Murracciole – Delegate of the Coastal Conservatory in Corsica:
“These are ancient gestures. We are very happy to perpetuate this tradition and to give
young enthusiasts the opportunity to realize their dream and bring this area to life. It is
also a proof of life, a revitalization of these sites, and that is important to us.”
Soon, another breeder will settle in this landscape.
We leave the Agriates to meet a man
who perpetuates another tradition, in the far south of the island.
In Bonifacio. Built on a limestone cliff carved by the
winds, this town is a jewel in the Mediterranean. In the 12th century, the Genoese surrounded it with
2km of ramparts and built a fort. At the foot of this citadel, in the navy,
Jean-Philippe Giordano makes his final preparations.
“Thierry, are you good? * Yes, it’s good.
* Okay, you go along the last one, we’re off!”
He is a coral fisherman. To reach the open sea, he goes along these cliffs
and enjoys an exceptional setting. “The particularity of this
natural fjord is this depth in the limestone, A fjord of 1850 meters:
a nautical mile that goes inland. And this promontory, behind us we have the
suspended city and opposite Sardinia.” On the other side, Jean-Philippe passes
under the historic center of the city. “It’s completely unique and completely
magical, look at this suspended city, how beautiful it is. So it’s really the
ancient center, the historic center of Bonifacio where there are old churches and then all these
buildings that are on the cliff side, we have 70 meters of cliffs from the
water’s edge to the first buildings.” In Bonifacio,
coral fishing dates back to antiquity. At the time, the Greeks and the Romans
harvested it by free diving, because it was abundant at shallow depths.
Then, the fishermen used trolling gear to collect it.
By scraping everything in their path, they ravaged the seabed for centuries.
Until 1990, in Bonifacio, enormous trawlers still fished for coral. coral.
“It was still relatively destructive. With 25-
meter trawlers, towing an iron bar, weighted with chain and 40 meters of net.
We can imagine what that can do to the small, discreet garden that is the underwater ecosystem
, a one-ton machine passing towed by a 25-meter trawler with a few
thousand horsepower and everything was pulled out. Today, it is strictly forbidden.”
Coral fishing is highly regulated. There are only 10 professional divers
authorized to harvest it in Corsica. Jean-Philippe has been practicing this
amazing profession for 25 years. He looks for his fishing site
using an echo sounder, which sends back an image of the seabed.
“We know that we have a rock that is likely to carry coral, we just have to
equip ourselves and go and check that this coral is indeed present on this rock.
Okay, let’s anchor!” They send a beacon on the
rock they have just spotted. In Corsica, coral divers can
only fish below 50 meters. Jean-Philippe sets off on an
extreme dive: to a depth of 75 meters. A few minutes later, he begins
his treasure hunt in the dark. Coral: the red gold of the Mediterranean!
It is an animal colony that produces a limestone skeleton in the shape of a branch. Its growth is very slow,
only a few millimeters per year. Some of these branches have
taken more than 20 years to grow. To preserve this resource, Jean-Philippe
only chooses the largest in limited quantities, to give the youngest
time to develop. Each dive is a high-risk operation.
To avoid the intoxication of the depths, Jean-Philippe has only 20
minutes to collect his harvest. He then sends his basket to his teammate.
For him, the ascent will be much longer. To keep in touch, the two men
communicate using a special microphone. “Jean-Philippe, are you… receive.
Yes. ” -Very good, good fishing.”
After this deep dive, Jean-Philippe must do
decompression stops. It will take him 2 hours before returning to the boat.
“It’s very pleasant when the dive is successful, a beautiful tranquility. A wind that
didn’t really come in. There was no forcing. Everything happened naturally
and in a very pleasant chronology.” The coral fisherman and his crew member then look for
an isolated spot, sheltered from the wind, to check the quality of the harvest.
” It’s good!”
“This one is very pretty. This is a branch that was born, which was not touched by
fishing gear or by the hand of a coral fisherman and which is totally intact. This one was at the bottom
of a cave, hidden behind a gorgonian.” Bonifacio coral sells for between 200
and 2000 euros per kilo depending on its quality. It is unique in world.
“It has this red color, very specific to Bonifacio, this oxblood red that we
can see, this color is very sought after because it is rare.”
In a few days, Jean-Philippe will transform his most beautiful branches into jewelry. Heading for the high mountains, in the heart of the island. We are in the Regional Natural Park
of Corsica, not far from Corte. Here, nearly 120 peaks
culminate at more than 2000 meters. At 2700 meters, Monte
Cintu is the highest on the island. A little further, another
peak: Monte Rotondo. When the glaciers retreated
from Corsica 15,000 years ago, lakes formed in these craters. This is Lake Capitello.
It is frozen 6 months of the year. It is located above another lake
of glacial origin: Lake Melo. This lake overlooks a valley remarkable
: the Restonica Valley. Crossed by this river, it is
a hotspot for biodiversity. In these crystal-clear waters,
2/3 of the species are endemic. “Come on, let’s put down the gear,
we’ll go fishing there on the way up, Come on, let’s get the equipment ready! Don’t
move…” Antoine Orsini is a hydrobiologist.
“It’s ok. It works!” With his team, he will inventory
the species in the river. He has been passionate about this site for over 30 years.
“I was born in this valley, I have my ties, I have my roots, I have my genetics, but
then as a scientist, I found a paradise for hydrobiologists.”
“We’re going to lift a big rock.” In the current, he looks for
amazing species. “There’s something.
We’re looking for invertebrates that are stuck under the stones, that
shelter under the stones from the current. They are essentially larvae of insects. ”
These larvae are precious specimens. Because they were already found in Europe,
20 million years ago. “It’s something that is exceptional on a
global level, because they are only found in Corsica and they relate the geological history
of Europe. Corsica and Sardinia, 20 million years ago, when
these two islands broke away, they drifted in the middle of the Mediterranean, they did a
bit like Noah’s Ark. They took with them species that are only found on this island.
I feel like I’m in my own Jurassic Park when I’m in this valley!”
In the river, there is another emblematic species, which has inhabited these waters for
several thousand years: the Corsican trout. To catch it, Antoine
uses electric fishing. A low-intensity current passes
through this ring and attracts the fish. “Come on, there’s the big one, Come on. There we have the
Loch Ness monster. Hop, there it is, there it is, there it is. There it is, there it is, there it is. ”
The trout is stunned by the electric shock, to then be studied.
“There, what we can see clearly on this trout is the big spot it has behind its eye.
And then it has a particular coat with red spots. So here is an endemic trout.”
“There François, it measures roughly, from head to tail. About 15cm.”
For them, the presence of these fish is good news.
“When there is pollution, trout populations decrease,
or even disappear because they are very sensitive to pollution. Here we know that we
are in an area where there is no pollution.” The quality of its waters and its biodiversity have earned
this valley the classification of “Grand site de France” since 2011.
” There, there, one takes the hook
and the other puts the rings on.” A few kilometers away, there is excitement for
the rangers of the Corsican Regional Natural Park. “Yes, go ahead, you can lift!” It is
the beginning of June. It is the start of the high season
for a legendary hiking trail: the GR20. With Gilbert, the pilot, the rangers have
only a few days to supply the fifteen or so shelters along the way.
“It marks the beginning of the hiking season since we are at the beginning of the
summer period, when the GR20 will start to experience significant traffic.
So, the shelters have to be ready to receive all these people.”
The GR20 was created in the 70s to combat the desertification of
the island’s interior and launch green tourism. To accommodate hikers, the
Corsican Regional Natural Park then built shelters and rehabilitated sheepfolds.
Here is one of the most frequented refuges on the GR20: the Thighjettu refuge.
It is located at the foot of one of the most difficult stages of the trail.
“It’s good, it’s good.” This refuge is run by Charlie Santucci.
“Is it finished? Watch out, we have to take everything down immediately. Are
you there yet?” He is helped by René Eymerie.
He is a park ranger, a mountain specialist.
His entire team participates in setting up Charlie.
“We are on the GR all season, we are always in contact with the wardens and
it is important to give them a helping hand. And that’s always been done, we
are on good terms, so it’s normal, we are not going to stay there. What is done now,
we couldn’t do it later, no.” And after two hours of effort, …
“Thank you again for the umpteenth time for coming up with me.”
If you are missing other things and everything, you let us know, no problem. We I’ll
let you get settled in for two or three days, and next week we’ll go up for a walk.
But for René Eymerie’s team, the day has only just begun.
They now have to secure the Cirque de la Solitude, located two hours from the refuge.
It’s a particularly dangerous section on the GR20.
Lovers of these mountains, these men know all the pitfalls of the trail.
“It’s very steep, the reliefs are very sharp. The Corsican mountains are special
: they are special. We are passionate about that, you know…”
“Christian, how many spitz dogs are there?” * Christian: Apparently there are
two, according to the information we received.” After the winter, they make sure that
these chains are well attached. Thanks to them, hikers can
overcome the most difficult obstacles. “It’s still a place where people are
apprehensive, they don’t all have very sure footing. They are hanging on all their
weight with the weight of the backpack on the chains, so they might as well hold.
This has been verified every year.” Every year, nearly 18,000 people attempt
the adventure because the GR20 is now famous throughout the world.
This trail crosses the island diagonally from one coast to the other…
…Mainly on this great ridge. Over 200 kilometers, it winds through
the most beautiful landscapes of the island. It passes through the ridges, always
away from roads and villages. It is particularly long and difficult, because
it was designed for seasoned mountaineers. It takes about 15 days at a rate of 6 hours of
walking per day to cover it in its entirety. Barely two out of
three hikers manage to complete it. However, the GR 20 attracts more and more people…
“Come on, let’s go!” A few days later… on
one of the stages of the trail. “Always remember to tighten your
shoes, for those who have minor ankle problems.”
Jean-Paul Padovani is passionate about the Corsican mountains: he has been a
guide for over 10 years. He is leading this group of hikers on
the northern section of the GR20. They are aged between 21 and 60, and come from all over France.
They will be taking on this challenge for the first time. “Is that a bird of prey we hear or not? Yes.”
The group has just left Canaglia… very close to Corte….
The trail begins gently through pine forests and natural pools.
“Look at the quality and clarity of the water. It’s an invitation to swim!
Look at it, is it beautiful!” After a few hours of walking, the
first difficulties appear. Because you have to cross one of these
gaps to continue the route. “Ours is the most indented,
let’s say. There we see it!” Jean Paul leads his group
towards the Capitello gap. It is the highest point of the
GR20 at 2225 meters above sea level. “From here, it looks impressive, because we’re going to
go right through the gap that we can see right in the center and from here,
we say to ourselves it looks complicated, but if we take it easy, it’ll be fine.”
“Well, in terms of difficulty, it’s maybe a little bit above what I expected, I
think I’ll manage, I hope.” “Apparently, we’re going to pass a gap with
two handrails, I think we’re going to have a bit of fun, yeah.”
“Breathe deeply. Breathe – Breathe in! Breathe in”
The hikers are on one of the most beautiful stages of the GR… and one of the most delicate.
“-So we’re moving slightly to the right, we’re going to go one by one anyway,
we’re not going to go all together, we’re taking the chain, we’re not hesitant to take
both hands. Afterwards, there’s also a gap on it. You can walk in the gap.
Come on, give me your hand, come on, hold on tight. Come on Mickaël, how are you
. Eh Noëlla? Are you okay? Not too hard?
-Now it’s okay!” For several hours,
the group will evolve in this stony and vertical universe.
“We’re coming, friends, we’re coming!” “There you go »
2 hours of effort and finally the crossing of the breach!
“We switch completely to the west coast.” And on the other side: a unique panorama
“It’s true that we’ve always been amazed by the landscapes, but there
on top of that, putting in the effort and everything… We ‘re in it, the personal challenge, we’re
really in it, yeah it’s nice.” A few kilometers further,
another even more astonishing landscape After two days of intense effort, the hike
becomes gentler, for one stage. The group reaches large plateaus.
These lawns offer one of the most unusual landscapes of the GR20.
“We’re going to try to stay on the path to avoid trampling
these lawns which are fragile.” They are dotted with Pozzines:
holes more or less filled with water. These are peat bogs. They are
connected to each other by canals. They are located in the basin
of one of the most beautiful lakes in Corsica. Lake Nino. It’s the pearl of the GR20. The Pozzines are a paradise
for free-roaming horses. They migrate from the
neighboring mountains to enjoy the always fresh grass in the middle of summer.
And suddenly, the Corsican mountains take on the air of Ireland or Mongolia.
“We’ve just changed countries, in fact! We’ve gone from rocky terrain to vast
steppes. It’s fantastic: in the space of two days, we’ve gone from one world to another,
and it’s really pleasant, you feel like you’re walking on carpet.”
“There’s a serenity that reigns, you forget everything, you disconnect completely. A good cure for those
who are a little stressed. No, it’s really superb, it’s good, it’s really beautiful!”
“There, on your right: the Paglia Orba. There, on the right, a very beautiful mountain:
2,525 meters above sea level.” After 4 days of walking, the group arrives in
Thighettu, at Charlie’s. It’s the last refuge before a legendary stage.
“Hello, how are you? – I’m fine, it’s good. We’re coming, we’re here!
– Hello, nice to meet you! Charlie. – Nice to meet you.
– Mickaël, Julien. – Hello, hello.
– There, it’s just… Come on, look at the view too!”
“We have a breathtaking view. This is authentic. It’s
really what I was looking for.” ” I think we’re going to have a good evening.
We’re going to enjoy ourselves!” “- Are you okay? It’s true that Micka has a
good appetite, eh! Mickaël: I was told I was going to
lose weight on the GR20, but actually, I don’t think so.
You’re taking in calories.” Tomorrow the most dreaded stage of the GR20 awaits hikers: Crossing
the Cirque de la Solitude. It’s six o’clock in the morning…
And everyone is already hard at work. “Now we’re getting ready for the cirque de la
solitude. Apparently it’s quite technical, I think we have an hour and a half or two hours
to reach the starting point. And then we’re off for the most difficult stage.”
“This is the stage that we have to do. At the same time we’re looking forward to it and at the same time, it’s
a bit impressive what people are saying about it, what people are talking about it, so there you go, but
hey, it’ll do, it’ll do.” “I don’t know, I’m waiting to see
actually, I’m on the fence. I’m waiting to see. We’ll see.”
“Goodbye! Thank you!” To access the cirque de la solitude
: hikers will leave the transhumance trails.
… For alpine hiking. Here is the cirque de la solitude: a
legendary place, reputed to be very difficult. It involves several hours of walking in
stone scree, with dizzying passages. It is at this stage, which has
the most abandonments. “- There you go.
Julien: – Oh yes, really!
– Yeah, really, you see! 300 meters of negative elevation and then
we’re going to go back up opposite in the fault to come out in the big notch that you see over there.”
“But they’re Lilliputians over there!” The cirque forms an immense basin.
Once inside, there is no escape.
“In fact, the real name, it must be transcribed in Corsican, it’s called “Il cachetone
“, it actually means the bass drum, because it’s a resonating box, inside
of it. The Ancients called it that and we islanders still call it that.
And the cirque of solitude because we find ourselves in a very mineral environment
and when we are at the bottom of the cirque, it is truly moments of great solitude.” To succeed, The group
will have to be united. “We don’t hesitate to use our hands.”
“Be flexible on your legs! You will watch out for stones.”
The first danger: these are pebbles that slip underfoot
and can injure others. “You look each time there are
anchor points, okay, and we go one by one by piece, by fixed point.”
Then, it’s a succession of slippery and vertical walls, which
must be crossed using chains. In the group, fatigue is making itself felt.
“- I have no reflexes at all. Come on. Come on, both hands, both hands,
go on, put some weight, put some weight. Go down, go down. Then you go down to there.”
“It’s true that it’s a bit daunting, sheer.
You really get a sense of it when you’re at the top. In fact, you realize that as you
go down, you gain confidence. You have to take it easy… Good.”
“And there we are, finished for the descent. Now we have just as much to do, but
uphill. We can see the Bocca Tumaginesca above! We’re not there yet.”
“Come on, it’s coming, use your hands there!”
” Being able to take them to the end of this feat, this
challenge, and this surpassing of themselves, it’s a great satisfaction, us guides,
it’s our element, it allows us to accompany them in their dream!”
Three hours later… the hikers finally reach the goal…
Yeah, it’s going well, we’re finished there. And at the summit, the dream takes on its full dimension
“There, we are there, above everything, with a magnificent view, it’s really
appreciable, it’s grandiose, you know!” “There’s everything, you know, there’s the mountain, really
everything that is stone, you feel that it’s the mountain that is above the sea,
almost emerging from the sea, it’s diverse, it’s magnificent. »
For everyone, the GR20 will have been a wonderful human experience.
« I’m really happy, I really wanted to do it for a while, I knew it
was very hard and I had set myself a little bit of a challenge. Yeah, now I’m really happy,
especially the circus of solitude, I’ve been waiting for it for a while too, to have passed it, really
really happy. Yeah, it’s really great. » Régine, Jennifer, Mickaël and the others
will leave this trail in two days. All will keep unforgettable images from these summits
.
La Corse est une île unique en Méditerranée : plus de 1000 kilomètres de côtes enlacent des sommets dont certains culminent à plus de 2500 mètres!
Amoureux de la France et du patrimoine, ses trésors n’auront plus de secrets pour vous 👉https://bit.ly/4dnI1h1
Des « palais d’Américains » du Cap Corse aux richesses méconnues du désert des Agriates, du sentier mythique du GR20 aux falaises de Bonifacio, l’Ile de Beauté regorge de trésors… La Corse vit actuellement un renouveau culturel. Les habitants prennent conscience de leur patrimoine et tentent de préserver les traditions et les savoir-faire.
“La Corse autrement”
Un documentaire de la collection Des Racines et des Ailes, écrit et réalisé par Lucile Bellanger.
© ECLECTIC PRODUCTION
Tout droits réservés – AMP
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