Monsanto: Portugal’s Secret Village Under a Rock 🇵🇹
Bom dia YouTube. So today it’s bye-bye Douro
Valley and today in this video we will see three very different landscapes as we head
from wine country up here in the north to central Portugal and the village of Monsanto
where people literally live under a rock. More about that later and you will get expressions
of three very different landscapes as we go. Every road trip has its turning point. That moment
when you leave behind a place that’s become more than just scenery. Driving down to the Douro
and climbing out on the other side feels like saying goodbye to an old friend. For days, these
slopes and the river have been my companions, shaping every bend and every view. What impresses
me about the Douro is that it never makes a big fuss about itself. It’s quietly beautiful,
content to just be what it is. Everyone has heard of port wine, yet the bell’s own Douro DOC
table wines are almost unknown beyond Portugal’s borders. They stay here like a secret you can
only taste if you come. And despite its fame, the valley never feels overly touristy. The
villages are lived in, the vineyards are worked, and life carries on with little need to put on a
show. That’s what makes leaving it feel different. Not like checking of a sight of a list, not like
checking the sight of a list, but like stepping away from something genuine. But journeys are made
of departures as much as arrivals. The Douro will remain patient and eternal while I follow with
slower roads toward new landscapes, new towns, and new stories. That’s the beauty of travel. Every
ending carries the promise of another beginning. We have left the Douro Valley and it’s not much
not so much wine growing here right now. But we’ve entered the rolling hills of north central
Portugal and it’s still lush and green and very very beautiful here. I just need to find a nice spot to show you some of the
scenery around here. But it’s really it’s just pretty. It’s not as spectacular as
Douro Valley with all those wine terraces and amazing views from like one viewpoint after
the next when you go up the mountains, when you go up the hills. But it’s still very
very nice here. And we’ll follow these green rolling hills for quite a while until we enter a
more mountainous region going to see more granite. Well, there we have it. All those mountain
roads of the Douro Valley took a toll on my car’s battery. Of course that can happen when
you rent an electric car. The battery was down to 22% and the warning sign kept coming up.
So, I looked up the nearest fast charger and here I am in this random Portuguese town that
sits somewhere in the hills. I will look up the name of this town in a moment. Um, and
I have no idea what’s around here. Not much, it seems. But let’s go explore
for a bit while the car charges. Well, there is a church and a
tourist office. That’s a start. I wonder what GNR is. And I think
it’s not what I associate with it. I’ve noticed that before. They don’t care
much for sidewalks in some places in Portugal. If you know of these oversized artificial
flowers on the balconies have a special meaning, please let me know in the comments. Okay. Guarda Nacional Republicana,
National Republican Guard. Not Guns N’ Roses. Okay, since I have to time some I have
some time to kill, I’m going up there. Okay, I think we can head back towards
the car. It should be good enough for the rest of the way today now.
And just one more stop on the way back. That is of that that is of
course a must on this Portugal trip. Cute church: check. So it’s a Sunday but even for that I think this
town is like suspiciously quiet. What’s happening? Yeah, we’re good. Leaving the town, the road carries me through a
landscape that looks unlike anything I’d seen so far. For stretches, the earth turned black. Trees
stripped down to brittle silhouettes feels marked by fire. It’s a reminder that Portugal’s interior
is as vulnerable as it is beautiful. Every summer, wildfires sweep through the countryside,
leaving these scars behind. And yet, even here, life pushes back. Green shoots
appear among the ashes, villages carry on, and the rhythm of a road continues. Driving
through it, you realize that a journey isn’t just about the postcard views. It’s also about seeing
the land as it really is. Shaped by weather, by work, by time, and sometimes by destruction.
Heading south, these dark stretches become part of the story, too. A landscape marked by
struggle, but also by quiet resilience. Further down the road, the first massive
granite boulders begin to rise out of the earth. They look almost sculpted as if nature had
been chiseling away for centuries to leave these silent monuments behind. Granite is
one of Portugal’s most important stones. Not just in landscapes like this, but in the
fabric of the country itself. For centuries, it’s been the backbone of villages and
cities used in houses, streets, churches, pavements. Entire towns are built on granite
and sometimes even into it. As we will see soon enough in Monsanto, these rocks are more
than just scenery. They’re part of Portugal’s identity, shaping both its architecture and
sense of permanence. Driving past them, you feel like you’re entering a different world. One
word stone isn’t just background but foundation. As we are approaching our final destination
for today, the weather is clear clearing up. So, I am hoping for some nice light when I take
you through town. Let’s hope it stays this way. I have arrived at my apartment for tonight. And
of course, we need to have the room tour. Well, it’s actually almost a house tour. It’s It’s an
apartment tour. Okay, here we go. It’s all very very You see this? It’s just naked stone. And you
will see more of that when we get outside. But for now, we will just have a look around on the inside
here. So, when you get in, you walk right into the bedroom. Nice large double bed. And right next door, well there’s not even a
door, but right next to it is the living area with a nice couch and also the kitchen area. So
the the owner left me some typical pastries of the region right there. And he also left me
some cheese and ham, he said, in the fridge. Okay. I see cheese. I see some jelly. I see
butter. What’s this? Figs, nice. Okay. Ah, here’s there’s the ham. Okay. And bit of juice and leita. Ah, that’s a milk drink. I think there’s a coffee maker. There’s also coffee in
here. So, I’ll be fine in the morning. kitchen area, I mean kitchen table area. Also, there’s a little kids table if you need one. And the bathroom has all you need in a bathroom and some more. Okay, it seems the mirror has seen better
days. It almost looks like it’s deliberate. Okay. Okay. So, I have all this this whole apartment
for myself for tonight. Did cost me 115. So, it’s cheaper than last night, but it’s the second
most expensive night um I’ve had on this trip when it comes to lodging. But oh, um and also I forgot
to say, so there’s like cheese and ham and jelly and butter and stuff in the fridge. And he said
in the morning they will deliver fresh bread to my door. So breakfast is settled. Well, this village
Monsanto or small town Monsanto sits on a hill on top of a hill. And this house is way on top of the
town. So, it doesn’t get much higher than here. And I couldn’t get to the house with a car. I had
to leave it about 150 m 200 m down the road and then make have a steep climb up here to the house.
So, I did not bring my whole suitcase with me. I just grabbed the stuff that I need for the night
and left the suitcase in the car in the trunk. Um because it was it’s quite it’s
quite a climb. But actually, I’m going to get back to the
car and grab some more stuff and I’ll take you along because there
is something else I wanted to show you. Yeah, this whole town is built between, around, above, and partly under rocks. So,
more about that in a little bit. And of course, there is also
an absolutely amazing view. Oh, and a cute church. Let’s go. Okay, it’s not actually a church. It’s a
bell tower, but it’s cute anyway. So, how did this come to be? Well, it all started
in the 12th century, and all you Assassin’s Creed fans must be very brave now. It started with the
Knights Templar. Back then, King Afonso Henriques, who was the first Portuguese king, gave them
this hill. And what do Templars do? Of course, they built a castle on top. And as
the boulders were already there, they integrated them into the walls. I mean, it’s
not dumb. Boulders make excellent walls. Why carve stone when it’s already there. Also, boulders
insulate really well and they are tough to break. So after some time the town just expanded around
that castle and other people also used the boulders that were already there as natural walls
and after more time it simply became Monsanto’s identity and that’s why you have this very very
unique little town on top of this granite hill. Yes, Monsanto celebrates San Sebastian Day. So, there’s a festivity going on and we’re checking
it out. You can hear it already, I guess. I can’t believe I just drove
a rental car through here. It’s the next morning and of
course before we leave we got to see where it all started and visit the castle. This is giving me some serious
Assassin’s Creed vibes. Okay. Fortresses in the Middle Ages often
only had two gates because I mean doors are easier to break than walls, right?
So there’s one. That’s the front gate. And here’s the other perfect location for a fortress, right? I mean, you can see for miles and miles
and if any enemy would approach, you would see them like hours ahead. That’s why you’d have to be an assassin
to attack this one. So you you can sneak through the bushes and climb up the boulders
and never be seen. Oh my god, I’m such a nerd. So you can see here how they
integrated the boulders into the walls, setting the theme for the
whole town. Really pretty smart. All right, now it’s really time to say goodbye
to Monsanto. So again, I hope you enjoyed this video. I hope I will see you for the next one.
And until then, have a wonderful time. Take care.
Leaving the Douro Valley behind, my Portugal road trip takes a dramatic turn. 🚗✨ In this episode, I drive from the world-famous wine country into the heart of central Portugal, passing through three very different landscapes:
🌿 Rolling green hills north of Sernancelhe
🔥 Burnt forests marked by summer wildfires
🪨 Towering granite boulders leading to Monsanto — the “most Portuguese village in Portugal,” where people literally live under and between giant rocks.
Along the way, I recharge my EV in a quiet hill town, reflect on the scars left by fire, and explore Monsanto’s steep lanes, castle walls built into the boulders, and its stunning views across central Portugal.
📍 Highlights in this video:
– Saying goodbye to the Douro Valley
– Driving through wildfire-scarred landscapes
– First sight of Portugal’s iconic granite boulders
– Exploring Monsanto’s unique houses, castle, and festival atmosphere
If you enjoy authentic travel, slow roads, and hidden gems in Portugal, this is a place you don’t want to miss.
👉 Subscribe for more episodes from my no-toll Portugal road trip!
Music by Epidemic Sound, Map by Google Maps
#Portugal #RoadTrip #Monsanto #DouroValley #TravelVlog