在冰島的盡頭：西峽灣要租SUV嗎？斯奈山半島與維京人的家｜冰島環島Ep.07: Westfjords × Snæfellsnes × The Viking Homeland

在冰島的盡頭：西峽灣要租SUV嗎？斯奈山半島與維京人的家｜冰島環島Ep.07: Westfjords × Snæfellsnes × The Viking Homeland

In the last video, we completed the dreamlike Diamond Circle and started heading west to stay in the small town of Hofsós. This is simply a place to pass by on the way around the island. We continued our journey around the island, heading to the more isolated Westfjords, then to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and finally staying overnight in a village near Lava Falls before returning to Reykjavik. This video is Day 10-12 of our journey. Please continue watching. After walking through the Diamond Circle in northern Iceland and then on the way to the Westfjords, it will be a lonely road. We passed by here that day and stayed in a guesthouse by the fjord. This was the morning before leaving, and the wind was very strong. Today’s breakfast was simple. The elderly Australian couple who had breakfast with us in the restaurant spread out paper materials and were studying them. They only drink coffee for breakfast, and they drink 2 liters of coffee! This is the view of the small town in front of the guesthouse. Today is day ten of our Icelandic circuit. We’re driving around the Northwest Fjords and arrived at this small town. It’s a little hard to pronounce. It’s called Sauðárkrókur. We need to fill up our tanks now so we can head out to the difficult Westfjords . The weather is overcast today, and it feels very Icelandic. Even if I tried to read the Icelandic language—oh, even if I tried to read the letters, I can’t pronounce them the way I pronounce them in English. The gas cost for the circuit was about NT$12,000. There’s a video called: How much does 15 days in Iceland cost? Watch today’s road trip. The driving alone took six hours. We stopped to rest on a cloudy day, perfect for a driving day. Wow! I opened the window and it took off, turning onto Route 643 in the Westfjords. We ‘ve now entered the Westfjords, the northwesternmost corner of Iceland. We’ve reached the first section of Route 643. I was worried that Route 643 would be gravelly, as it shows a white path on Google Maps . But it seems fine so far. We need to reach the guesthouse. It’s still an hour and a half to get to the house . There are a few gravel roads from now on , but it’s still acceptable , so we drive slowly. We just went downhill at a 45-degree angle. It’s raining now , so we should take the same route back tomorrow. We didn’t go around the Westfjords. The Westfjords are cut into countless narrow peninsulas and high mountains with rugged terrain. The road we took was really scary. In winter, the mountains are blocked by snow, and the roads are difficult to travel. On this trip to the Westfjords, we only went a little bit and felt so isolated. This road will be even more beautiful if it’s sunny tomorrow. This is really beautiful. This one goes straight into the sea . Oh my god, it’s so scary ! They didn’t move, hahaha. Why did they suddenly run? Because there was a car passing by . One day of the road trip , we set off at 10 am and finally arrived at the accommodation at 6:30 pm. We stayed on the fjord. There were sheep outside. It was a very comfortable single-family cottage. The price was 140 euros = 4900 It’s NT$ 2025, and there’s no price increase. The shared kitchen is quite small. For dinner today , I made porridge and added spinach to it, making it unseasoned. The side dish was a frozen treat. There was a meatball, and the side dish was mashed potatoes. I love mashed potatoes, so I bought some to try. It ‘s a bit like mackerel in tomato sauce. Canned white beer is a bit like Swedish meatballs and lamb meatballs, because Iceland has a lot of lamb . Sunset was beautiful. We wanted to go to the hot springs a little further ahead and walk along the fjord. It was so beautiful, like a fairyland. Wow, it really is . Before we set off, I saw the secluded, isolated infinity pool in the Westfjords, and I decided to visit it. There was a steaming hot spring right by the fjord. We called the owner out and paid 1,000 Icelandic krona = NT$250 per person, which is super cheap (it’s 2025, and there’s no price increase). The owner went back to her cabin, and we changed clothes and took a bath. It was great. She said we’d see Aurora today , and we might even see it. The aurora borealis , for real! Yeah, it’s so comfortable. I think the water temperature has to be right here because this is where the water flows. Yeah, it’s so comfortable. The water temperature is just perfect, so hot. And we reserved the whole place today. It’s already 9:30, the sun has already set, and it’s dark. It’s the perfect time to soak in the hot springs. Regarding the aurora, we didn’t see any, though . We didn’t see any on this trip. But we did see them in the area we were in. Later, a Taiwanese friend told us, “Aurora, please show up !” It was like calling out to your significant other, haha. It didn’t work, but we truly had a dreamy hot spring. We stayed in a gorgeous cabin. The weather that day was one of those things Icelanders love to joke about! They even created a word for it: “gluggaveður.” It means, “It’s sunny and windy out the window, but no one wants to stay outside!” Day 11 of our Iceland Tour. Yesterday, we arrived in the Westfjords on a rainy day. Today, we’re returning by the same route. The main road is beautiful again in good weather. The Westfjords are truly beautiful, but the road conditions aren’t great. There are some small gravel roads , but it’s fine if we drive slowly. Because it’s summer, we didn’t rent an SUV this time, so we just drove a very ordinary Toyota. The car went quite smoothly. Yesterday, we were in a rush, so we didn’t get out of the car to take a look . Today, we can get off along the way. Árneskirkja l Church. Árneskirkja l Church. Wow, the rocks are falling! It’s so steep ! How’s the road? Actually, we just drove slowly. The day before, we saw a car careening down the slope. My partner screamed, “It’s flipping over!” But the next second, the car swiftly climbed back up. The people in the car must have been terrified! The weather is really beautiful, a hundred times more. There is a waterfall behind the abandoned gas station. This way, rush ~ Hmm, a small settlement in front of the waterfall. Wow, seeing a waterfall makes me stop here. In addition to the waterfall, there is an abandoned Djúpavík Herring Factory . It was built in 1934. It was a very advanced herring processing factory at that time. As mentioned in the previous episode , in the 1950s, the herring disappeared due to overfishing . The factory was closed and abandoned. The gray concrete exterior walls and rusted steel beams became relics frozen in time. “The Factory – Djúpavík Art Exhibition” has some installation art exhibitions. Enter freely. On the deserted fjord, there is an old Gardar BA 64 ship quietly lying. Built in 1912, it is the oldest steel fishing boat in Iceland. From whaling to fishing, it once sailed the Arctic Sea. Now it is rusting in the wind. It has experienced the golden age of fishing. This ruin has an atmosphere of “time stopping”. Wow~ After the sudden rush, they stopped moving, so cute. Wait a minute, wait a minute , they can run so far. The wind is so strong today . We came to Hólmavík in the Westfjords to replenish some food and refuel. There is a free self-service car wash. Wow, so cool. It must be like this when you come out of the Westfjords. The supermarket is dirty and the cross-fjord bridge where you buy food. Wow~ They ran away and ran so fast. So funny. Oh, don’t force them , they are at a loss. I beg you not to be like this . Look at their hair, it’s so messy. Hahaha , don’t race on the road, it’s so funny. It’s really funny . After crossing the Westfjords , we continued and headed straight to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula . The sun was about to set. The famous Kirkjufell Mountain, right? From this angle, it’s the back of the mountain . Double room with bathroom ~ NT 5000. The restaurant opposite the apartment is expensive. I don’t know if it is expensive because it is full, but the kitchen and restaurant in the apartment are great. I cooked instant noodles and met a Taiwanese friend. We chatted for a while and had dinner. The view of Kirkjufell Mountain and the lake is outside the window. The height is 463 Kirkjufell Mountain, at 1,000 meters, isn’t very tall, but its spire is incredibly recognizable. Locals say it was once an ancient elf settlement. We couldn’t find a small table in the forest for brunch today , so we decided to have a picnic next to Kirkjufell Mountain . Where else to go? Today is day 12 of our Iceland Circumnavigation . We’ve just visited Kirkjufell Mountain. Standing in front of the waterfall, with Kirkjufell Mountain in the background, it was truly stunning . The weather was beautiful today , not as strong as yesterday, and Kirkjufell Mountain was perfectly presented. It was truly stunning. We circled the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, where there’s a small attraction called a mineral spring. The water seems quite interesting. It was discovered in 1754 , and an analysis report on the spring claims it’s beneficial for heart disease, kidney disease, and diabetes. How interesting! Can you open it? Yes , let’s drink it. It looks like it has a lot of minerals. I just took a sip, and it was truly unpalatable. It ‘s heavy in minerals and iron, and it’s very carbonated. Oh, you’re right , and there’s gas. No wonder gas sparkling water is so heavy . The iron is exaggerated. That’s normal, right around 0.002 . And this spring… It’s 2 , so it’s 1,000 times stronger. No wonder it smells so strong. When we got back to the car, we saw this elderly couple filling a large bottle. Is it really effective? There’s a bright sun on the right and dark clouds on the left . We’re now at the fjord in Borgarnes . We’ve left the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, about 70 kilometers north of Reykjavik. Looking at the map, it’s on a small peninsula surrounded by the sea. We’ll stop here briefly to rest. In Iceland, Icelanders say, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.” If it looks like this side is… If you don’t like the weather here, just walk over here and it’ll get better. At the Little Pig Supermarket in Bornegas, all Icelandic supermarkets sell canned sheepshead fish for 398. How come it’s so cheap ? Everyone seems to like it with lettuce , tomato , strawberry , and orange juice. It’s easy to pay 2,758 kr ~ NT$700. Although it’s very close to Reykjavik, the house with grass on the roof must be the one with grass on the roof. Wow, this bomb shelter , but I still want to stay in the countryside for a night . Not that one, but this white bungalow B&B in Hraunfossar. We arrived near the lava waterfall around six o’clock. We explored around and around, but no one was there. We called the owner, who was elderly and had a deep voice . The owner asked us to go straight into the house and make tea and coffee by ourselves. He also said: I will make soup for everyone later. The owner is really a descendant of the Vikings . It’s a bit strange to say this, because Icelanders are descendants of Vikings. But when you see the owner, you will understand why I said that. The hat of the little hero of the North Sea. The owner and his little helper will cook here. This old house has a total of five rooms, but the other rooms have their own bathrooms. Although our bathroom is outside , it is only used by us. The price is very cheap, only 90 euros. Others with bathrooms cost 170 Our room is upstairs, and there are so many squeaking clouds. Hmm~ The clouds are so thick that it is difficult to see the aurora . The table setting is complete. There are three kinds of soups on the table, a rich vegetable soup and mushrooms just picked from the wild. The owner appears, very Viking. There are neighbors next to him, a Polish girl as a little helper. The German wife is very afraid of being awkward and keeps talking. There is also a Polish couple who have just been to Poland. We are also very talkative . Meatballs, peas, baked beans, potatoes and sauce are very homely and delicious. Halfway through the meal, another uncle neighbor came. He looked like he had just finished farming. These old people in the countryside who came to eat are very friendly! 13+1 people ate together . It’s the next morning~~ Breakfast was porridge, oatmeal, and other starches, and they always add sugar. Icelanders eat such sweet breakfasts, haha. Porridge, brown sugar, and cream. Have you tried this sugar with cinnamon sugar ? Rice and milk. Milk porridge is also a kind of porridge , not rice. Porridge is not called porridge, haha . Rice, rice , and milk is it sweet, no . Takk ~ Thank you in Icelandic how about hello, hello , hi, oh, good morning , Góðan dag, good morning~ wow, difficult, hmm, okay, so difficult, haha, thank you ~Takk!

冰島DAY10~12 三日走過西峽灣到斯奈山半島，尋找維京人的家

冰島Day10：西部峽灣
這日的行程是要直奔西部峽灣 (Vestfirðir)！
出發前，只是見到，一個在西部峽灣上的秘境，擁有遺世獨立的無邊際泳池。我就決定了此行必去。
結果在上路的前一天，路線規劃竟然要6小時，著實嚇一跳！
一早吃了簡單的早餐，咖啡、牛奶、麵包，就準備上路了！(因為有點吃膩了歐洲的火腿、cream、起士、沙拉，開始吃簡單些。哈哈！)
共同使用餐廳空間的澳洲人，頗為年長，夫妻兩人是老派旅行者，在餐桌上攤開了所有地圖、書籍、旅行資料，兩人仔細研究討論。很有趣的是，他們的早餐只喝咖啡，而且是2公升的咖啡！！！
這日是陰雨天，另一半覺得開車時不用那麼曬！很好！XDDD
不過，走在西部峽灣的643公路上，高低起伏、路面狹窄的石子路，皮要繃很緊！
還一度，眼睜睜地看到一輛小車衝下邊坡 (冰島的路面都高出大地許多，應是雪地所需)。
另一半大叫：車翻了。
結果下一秒，小車用很敏捷的速度又爬了上來，想必車上的人嚇得魂飛魄散了吧！
643公路，沿著兩個很深的峽灣環繞，車行至峽灣中心深處，兩側如同谷地般包圍著海洋，極美的地形。
日落時分，前往無邊際泳池，導航指示目的地在右手邊時，我們卻什麼都看不到！原來，泳池深埋在道路的水平面下，像是嵌入懸崖峭壁一般的一顆藍寶石。
美好的黃昏，泳池被我們包場了！最重要的是，水溫熱呼呼的，泡了個舒服的冰島西峽灣畔的美好溫泉。
今日行程：
*公路旅行的一天，早上10點出發，傍晚6:30才抵達住宿。
西部峽灣有著我們喜歡的寂寞公路旅行氛圍，一望無際、人煙稀少。
*Urdartindur Guesthouse And Cottages住宿，在峽灣邊、擁有1樓陽台的小屋住宿，非常美！(140歐元=4900台幣)
(訂房連結見留言)
*Krossneslaug無邊際泳池溫泉浴場 (每人1000冰島克朗=250台幣)

冰島Day11：西部峽灣又一回
這日的天氣，是冰島人最喜歡拿來開玩笑的天氣！
他們還創了一個單字來形容，gluggaveður，這意思是說，這天氣呀，從窗戶看出去真的是風和日麗，但是沒人想待在外頭。
這一整天，真的是，我在車上拍照都很漂亮，但是只要一下車，就是又冷又凍、風還可以把人吹跑！！
我們住在643公路的幾乎盡頭，所以必須要往回走才能離開西部峽灣。
因此見到了西部峽灣的兩樣風情。無論如何，這天看起來非常風和日麗，美麗的峽灣景色盡在眼前，雖然是碎石子路，但依然是愜意悠哉。
今日行程：
*離開Urdartindur Guesthouse And Cottages住宿
*Árneskirkja ll 教堂周圍
*Djúpavíkurfoss 瀑布與廢棄鯡魚工廠
*侯爾馬維克 Hólmavík 買麵包、加油、洗車
*直奔斯奈山半島，住宿Stöð Guesthouse and Apartments 雙人房含衛浴(140歐元=4900台幣)

冰島Day12：教堂山
前一天從西部峽灣的643公路，直奔斯奈山半島Snæfellsnes，在進入54號公路後，也是微微的碎石路段。
因此，我們在教堂山Kirkjufell的行程之後，再繼續向前，完成54號公路，到博爾加內斯Borgarnes的這段路，倒是輕鬆易行。
冰島的公路旅行來到尾聲，匆匆一見斯奈山半島，雖然細節不及，有些可惜、倒也不覺得遺憾。
當日的晚餐，和一對德國夫妻聊天，他們也是花了整整兩週時間遊冰島，卻不環島、只在南部，只因想要慢慢探索冰島，深入細節。和前幾天遇到的美國夫妻，花六天的時間環島，真是截然不同的旅人！
我們呢？！只想說冰川、峽灣、瀑布，太多了！每一個都去踩點，定會消化不良，還是精挑一二，我想就夠了！
另一半整天說：差不多了，看膩了！！
今日行程：
*格倫達菲厄澤 Grundarfjörður 小鎮散步、採買早午餐。小鎮上的峽灣畔教堂山視野也很美。
*教堂山Kirkjufell & 瀑布
*環繞斯奈山半島
*Ölkelduvatn Mineral Spring，號稱可以治心臟病、腎臟病、糖尿病的礦物泉水。我們喝了幾口，鐵味也太重了！見到有人裝一大瓶，真有趣！
*博爾加內斯Borgarnes & 小豬超市採買
*Guesthouse Gamli Bær 百年老屋民宅，到了才知竟然有一泊二食。(90歐元=3200台幣；雖是公用衛浴，但是只有我們獨用。)

來到維京人的家住一晚！！
Guesthouse Gamli Bær 民宿，位於著名景點Hraunfossar熔岩瀑布附近。

來到Guesthouse Gamli Bær百年農舍老宅，差不多是六點的光景，在周遭前後探勘一番，不見一人。

打電話給主人，是年邁低沉的聲音，主人要我們直接到屋內休息，自行泡茶喝咖啡，還說了，等一下要煮湯給大家喝。

這太讓人驚喜了！沒想到竟是一泊二食的住宿。

不久，留著漂亮大鬍子的阿伯出現了！簡直就是活生生的維京人出現在我眼前。

阿伯和小幫手波蘭妹開始忙著煮湯、做晚餐，說了八點準時開飯喔！

冰島旅行日常，每當此時，總是忙著張羅晚餐。這日竟然可以躺在床上等飯吃，也太幸福！

開飯時間一到，五間房總共10位客人準時入席，再加上主人和小幫手之外，還有一位早早來等吃飯的、超可愛的蹭飯鄰居大媽，大夥兒熱熱鬧鬧開飯。

上桌的湯品有三種，豐富多料的蔬菜湯，分為清爽和辣味，還有培根蘑菇奶油濃湯，是剛從野外採得蘑菇烹煮而成。

湯品實在太美味了，食材鮮美濃郁，又不會太鹹，而且又很家常，根本是想加什麼料就隨性加，每一種都好好吃呀！我各吃了一碗湯，實在飽到不行！

以為只有湯配麵包就是晚餐了，結果竟然還有第二道菜，是肉丸子，再加上豌豆、焗豆、馬鈴薯，再佐以醬汁，也是非常家常美味。

這頓飯我們圍繞在一個大長桌上，總共吃了兩個小時。

席間，有兩組德國人，還有一對波蘭情侶，我們夾在他們中間，才去過波蘭的我們，非常有話題。四口之家的德國太太和波蘭先生，是怕冷場的兩個人，因此話題不斷、笑聲不斷，非常非常有意思的晚餐！

13+1個人的+1人，是用餐到一半，又來了一位阿伯的鄰居，看起來是剛務農完畢，也是來蹭飯。可以想見這些鄉間的老人家們感情都非常得好！