МАДЕЙРА – Найкрасивіше місце Європи! Острів вічної весни. Як це можливо?

МАДЕЙРА – Найкрасивіше місце Європи! Острів вічної весни. Як це можливо?

I have always wanted to visit Madeira.
Probably because every time I saw it online, it looked
somehow different. Sometimes clouds underfoot, sometimes waterfalls among the jungle, sometimes black
beaches, sometimes steep cliffs, sometimes mystical forests. And the more I looked, the less I understood,
what it is like: Iceland, or Thailand, or even like Dolomites. So I decided to fly, figure things out and, of course, share everything with you. And you know me. I am a bit of a perfectionist and do either well, or not at all. So I promise you that after this film you definitely won’t regret watching it. This is a story with adventures, failures and surprises at the most unexpected moment. So watch, don’t miss anything. For this trip I set myself two goals.
The first is, of course, to gather the whole puzzle Madeira into one piece, and the second is to make a collection of atmospheric photos. Not for Instagram, but for myself.
To print as a photo book and leaf through in the evenings, sipping tea. And,
of course, based on my experience I will make a travel guide for you that can be downloaded in the description under the video. So, are the adventures starting? All adventures on Madeira begin at the airport, where, traditionally, every travel blogger, to look manly, must
tell that this is the most dangerous airport in the world. Before going here, I read about the Madeira airport. It turns out to be one of the most
dangerous in the world, because practically the kilometer of runway is located
over the ocean and the airport is located between rocks, so there is constant wind and
etc., and planes that come in to land do not approach in a straight line but land as if at an angle. Therefore, until the end there is a bit of adrenaline, but for me it turned out without extreme. We landed well. And now the main thing – to pick up
our horse. I love these moments. Always a surprise. Will they give what you ordered,
or something else? Usually you get something worse. Our number is 94.
Ta-da! Ford Fiesta. We need to double-check if everything with it
is okay, because the consultant said: “You’ll see for yourself, if you find any damage, let me know” And I can already see them. But come on, so you don’t have to have a mess in your head, like I did once. We will lay everything out piece by piece,
starting from the basics. What is Madeira anyway?
It is an autonomous region of Portugal. A green island about the size of Kyiv, 650 km
from Morocco and 850 km from Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean. When the Portuguese
discovered it 600 years ago, it was so densely covered with pristine
forest that they first called it the Island of Trees, and then burned it. They say several years burned in a row.
Such a medieval landscape design for future
sugar cane plantations. For 200 years merchants from all over the world sailed
here for this white gold. But over time Brazilian sugar won, and Madeira
turned to grapes. That is how the famous Madeira wine was born. Its hallmark is its aging process with
heating, accidentally discovered by sailors. They say this wine
was the toast for signing the Declaration of independence of the United States, and Shakespeare mentioned
it in his plays. It was so valued then. If you feel like, you can
taste it. And my head hurts from the wine.
But the island’s trick is that here, six climatic zones coexist
– from subtropical coast to cool foggy mountains. All because of its
landscape. Since it’s a volcanic island, from the sea to the peaks it rises very sharply. There is no scorching heat in summer, nor frosts in winter.
A true island of eternal spring. Madeira is home to almost 260,000
inhabitants, and half of them in the capital Funchal, which sprawls amphitheatrically on the slopes of the hills, descending to the ocean. To make the early morning flight to
Madeira, today I got up at 2 a.m., so I didn’t want to rush into the mountains right away, but rather to stroll calmly through Funchal – on the contrary. So first thing from the airport I
drove here. The best way to explore the island is,
of course, to rent a car. And I would advise parking in Funchal right away
in underground garages. The cost is 3 coins and you are not time-restricted, as with street parking. Although I wasn’t in Madeira, it felt like coming home
somehow. Familiar Portuguese architecture. I have basically driven all of Portugal,
but pieces of the puzzle in the form of Madeira weren’t enough. I was very curious whether here
everything is like on the mainland, or different. The old town of Funchal is a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, old colonial houses and small squares.
You go and feel like you’re stepping back a few centuries. Beautiful lanterns with
flowers, azulejo tiles on the houses. The scent of the sea, fruits and coffee lingers in the air,
the smell of which I followed. I already like Madeira in Portugal. Double espresso 1 euro and 5 cents. Drink as much as you can And although there are many tourists here, and cafes and
restaurants are full, the atmosphere is really very cozy. This is exactly the kind of town I missed in continental Portugal. What a thrill to simply wander the city and not hurry anywhere. And when you wander like this, sooner or later you will come across the main cathedral of Madeira, which was born in the fire of its volcanoes. It
is laid out with former basalt lava, which very beautifully contrasts with the white walls. Inside, the cathedral is also impressive, especially its cedar ceiling, with a fine
Morroccan ornament and the main altar, adorned with gilding and
Flemish paintings. I cannot forget the Maderians themselves. They are very friendly and welcoming. Here you can truly feel that they are glad to see you,
and not see you as a wallet with money. And practically all locals
speak English. By the way, about England. If you watched
my video about London, remember, I talked there about the Banksy tunnel. Well, here in Funchal there is something similar. In 2011 they launched the art project Open Doors. Artists were invited to transform old doors
of houses into canvases for their works. Since then more than 200 doors have gotten a second life,
and the neglected streets have turned into a gallery in the open air. Truly a charming street. Many
beautifully painted doors, and also more restaurants and souvenir
shops. Therefore, if you get hungry, you will be in Funchal in the old town, you can safely come here to nibble, and you will also see the art. All this, by the way, is located at the very
bottom of the city, by the waterfront. But higher up, at an altitude of 500 m, is a completely
different world, the Monte district. Here, of course, you can climb by car, or by the
modern cable car, admiring the city panorama from above, and
you can also take a taxi or bus. It is here that one of the island’s most peculiar and
beautiful entertainments was born: riding on woven sleds on asphalt. And the most interesting thing is that this is not some new attraction. It is a tradition that has been around for over 150 years. The thing is that in this district of the city on the hill lived very noble people, aristocrats. It was a little far to descend to the coast. So they
invented this method – woven sleds from vines and 2 km down. So the tradition lives on to this day. You can come and ride. Admittedly, now the sleds are taken up by car, as well as sled drivers. And once they were carried up by hand. This is what I call hiking. Going and pulling a sled up yourself. The pilots of these skeins are called carreuses. And
they look now as they did for their ancestors. All in white. On the feet
sturdy boots with rubber soles to brake on turns, and on the head
a large bonfire cane hat. By the way, so as not to ascend twice
before the descent, I recommend first exploring the village itself. Here is a famous
church with two towers, in which lies buried n last Austrian-Hungarian Emperor Karl I.
He was in exile and spent his last years exactly in Madeira.
And right here is a luxurious n tropical garden with exotic plants,
ponds and Eastern pavilions. Definitely drop by. But if you don’t
mind, I won’t go here and spend money and time. I have plans of my own for nature. We’ll go not to an artificial garden, but to the n most genuine, natural and
wild one. So let’s finish with Funchal.
After all, in Madeira you’ll fly not for it, but for its nature. And
it is so unique and n diverse here that it’s no wonder I couldn’t put together in my head the whole puzzle before arriving here. And to be completely
honest, even after arriving here, it took me more than one day to figure out everything, while also having a few drinks. So, in Madeira there is everything. Green jungles-forests, volcanic cliffs, n waterfalls that fall right by the
highway, black beaches with basalt sand, n clouds that lie under your feet,
mystical forests, green mountains, bare mountains, n sun, rain, wind and fog. But if you want a beach vacation, this is not for n Madeira. There are practically no sandy beaches here, as well as, by the way, dangerous or poisonous n animals. No snakes, no spiders. Apart from a bunch of lizards. You can calmly wander n through the jungles, without fear, run into
dangerous wildlife. But the first thing that confuses you here is the weather. Although actually everything is very simple. Since the climate on the island is subtropical, n oceanic, the temperature here is stable
year-round. Almost always from 17 to 25°, n but with a few nuances. The first is that everything
here depends on elevations. On the coast there can be heat, and in 20 minutes up you already
have fog, rain and cold. And the second is where you are on the island. The north of the island
is the first to meet the clouds from the ocean, so n it is rainier, while the south is the opposite
very sunny. If we speak in numbers, in the
northern part of the island and in the mountains n there is up to 3,000 mm of rain per year. It is like
Hawaii or the Amazon, while in the southern n part it is six times less. It is more like
Kyiv or London. And you know what? The locals n have learned to use this
contrast for their purposes. They built here the Levada network, the calling card of Madeira.
Levada is a branched network of n mountain channels, which since the XVI century n cut through the whole island. The Portuguese n built them to collect water from the northern and mountainous areas, where it n is always abundant, and to bring it to the south to Funchal and to the Vineyards, where it is much n drier. And to service these canals, along them they always made narrow paths, n which today have become tourist n routes. So let’s move from theory to adventures, for which we flew here. But first we need to n settle into the apartments. Well, what can I say, I was lucky with
this apartment, because when I was looking for n apartments, for this money there were only
either some bad hotel rooms or n slightly cheaper simply beds in
hostels. And here, for 75 pounds, n that is about 85, probably, euros, I have large
apartments, about 60-something square meters. Of course I don’t need that much, since my plans here are only to sleep, but n
nevertheless I will have free space and n silence. It’s nice that the house is relatively n new, because here there are many old
houses with problems of dampness and n so on. Here it’s like knock-on-wood, n all is well. Tomorrow I have grand n plans. I have preliminarily found a place where
theoretically one can see the sunrise over etc. Here it’s like knock on wood, everything is fine. Tomorrow I have grand plans. I preliminarily found a place where theoretically you can meet the dawn above the clouds. Plus the morning weather seems to be good. True, it’s about an hour to get there, which means I’ll need to wake up at least two hours before sunrise right now. Oh well, it’s Madeira. The weather changes constantly. If not today, I’ll return tomorrow. But without a good dawn I won’t fly from the moderate. a before-and-after insertion. Everyone is the same, came here and thinks: “Damn, since we’ve already come here, Maybe now the clouds will clear and we’ll be lucky Early to rise, that’s it. But honestly, I think it’s worth waiting a half hour, because according to the forecast the clouds theoretically should clear. Exactly, well, it’s unclear when, but soon. Maybe in half an hour, maybe in two hours. So let’s give it a chance. People come and go. Unfortunately, nothing miraculous happened, but let’s not be upset. We still have time ahead. But such moments make trips truly authentic, because you can’t always have a beautiful dawn or sunset. You have to earn them. Oh, what a nice drizzle under the trees is going. Why is it good to have a car? Turn on the air conditioning, the oven to full. We’re drying, we’re moving. I will study Madeira’s microclimate. I’m going to the next place very nearby. Let’s see, how it is now, How’s the weather? Nasty. Such a lousy weather, but, damn, you enjoy it. You enjoy it and that’s it. Well, I sat here for a couple of hours in the car, had breakfast, called relatives. And just as the clouds dispersed. So I’ll go back up now. Let’s see what changed in these few hours. Yes, in the morning it cleared a bit. A few hours work wonders. Although, of course, you won’t get cinematic footage, because after all the best is here at dawn or sunset, when the clouds are below you, and you are above them, but now the sky is clear, while in the morning everything was completely overcast, as you could see. So I think now I need to find a nice hiking trail and just walk somewhere through some forest. Not in the mountains, but through some valley. In Madeira all hiking trails have their numbers and names. The number of this one is PR6. One of the most popular levadas of Portugal. Ideally you come here in the morning to start, because after 9-10 now there will be fewer people as well. And though the storyteller writes that the length of the route is 4.2 km one way, in reality this is not quite so. To its start you must walk several kilometers from the parking. And in total the distance there and back will be about 13 km with a height gain of 500 m. The trail is considered of intermediate difficulty, but only due to the long climb back to the parking and stairs in some sections. I thought to have coffee before starting, but I’ve been standing for about 10 minutes, no staff approaching. Prices are also, by the way, three times higher for coffee than anywhere. We’ll skip coffee for now. The route runs inside the forest along a irrigation canal. And overall here it’s nice, but the foot traffic is like on a highway. So consider if you want to be alone with nature and dive into your thoughts, then this is definitely not the place. Or at least not during the day, but early morning or late afternoon. Anton already thought about it. Why are we sitting, whom are we waiting for? I’m coming, I’m coming. Because the paths are quite narrow, moving in two lanes is almost impossible and you constantly have to stop and let the oncoming flow pass. Just as it will be very hard to overtake someone. Too touristy a place. People can’t even stand properly to take photos, because they are blocked from in front or behind. Almost at the spot. Half a kilometer. In 5 minutes we’ll be there. Well, let’s see, what was the reason we walked 7 km for. What did I forget here? So would I recommend this place to you and would I come back here, for example, with my wife? No, definitely not. Even if in the morning, if I came here a second time, I would definitely go to Madeira, but not here. And now will be the best part of any hike. Hooray! Not I invented it. And when I left the parking lot, I thought about the Instagram Madeira I hadn’t yet seen and felt. But Madeira wouldn’t be Madeira if it hadn’t thrown in one more surprise. How do you like the little forest? In the background, the children are laughing somewhere. Everything, like it should be. It was raining in the morning, then the sun appeared, and then I’m already looking at the clouds, as if something is moving over the mountains. I’ll soon learn to navigate. I think, let me drop by. And just what I need. Such a vibe. This is the Fanal forest. The clouds here are so low that the trees look like movie set decorations for a film about ghosts. Because of this it’s also called the enchanted forest. Some trees here are over five hundred years old. And to create atmospheric photoshoots, people fly here from all over the world. Once these girls from Ukraine. Shouting people, there’s no point, because people are there. But where is the car? Point your finger, which direction to go. To understand you, indeed, I’m following Google Maps to the parking lot. I was blown away here. The atmosphere is really what I wanted. Cool. A lot of Ukrainian girls are taking photos, filming videos. Overall, a very, very good place. And I think it will be much easier here with the weather, because basically you only need quite cloudy weather. Rain is not mandatory, sun is not mandatory, but clouds happen often. So, as you can see it was so hazy just now, come here and you’ll have great photos as well as amazing memories. And I’m moving on. After an hour and a half at sunset. Who knows, maybe I’ll catch the sunset somewhere else as well. You know, I think I did find a place after all. As far as I remember from geography lessons, the sun sets in the west, and this is the westernmost point of the island, high above sea level. And honestly, here I was a bit overwhelmed by flashbacks from Cape San Vicente in Portugal. That same edge of land and the vast Atlantic Ocean. If you’re on Madeira, definitely bring some snacks and come here at least once. The atmosphere is simply romantic. After yesterday’s busy day today I decided not to wake up at 4 in the morning, but to sleep in and spend the first half of the day in less known locations. Somehow this Boca do Riscu, which literally translates as the dangerous pass. The trail goes at a height of about 400 m above the sea and so close to the cliff edge that sometimes you think maybe it would have been better to go in swimwear. Its length one way is about 5 km, but I just wanted to stroll, not walk it completely. Therefore, after spending about an hour here alone, I moved on. And while driving, I saw along the road a nice place to stop with a table and benches. And, of course, simply an incredible view. Well, how can one not stop here and have a picnic? There was one more short but important stop for me. Somehow I accidentally saw a photo of this bridge somewhere on the Internet and I really wanted to do the same. In my opinion, it is very photogenic. Having completed this task, I moved on to a much more popular and very Instagrammable location. Seychelles Beach. Black sand beach, white waves. Agree, which girl wouldn’t want a photo or video like that. You lie down and enjoy. Beauty, right? But in reality it’s not all that romantic here. This is a usual Instagram spot. And, as you can see from all these people, they came here not to sunbathe or swim, but just to take pictures. In Madeira the coast is mostly rocky and with sandy beaches it’s hard, but here there is soft volcanic sand and even a little waterfall in the background. In some year it was even named the most beautiful beach in Europe, but, probably the person who has never been anywhere else did it. A beach like a beach, only with black volcanic sand. At this moment there was very little time left before sunset, and I understood that meeting it somewhere on a mountain was unlikely to happen. But I decided to take the risk. I hope we’ll see the sunset today,
because as it was once with dawn at another location,
the higher we climbed, the more the clouds wrapped around, but this place is higher. And I hope the place where we’re going will be above the clouds. I’ve never seen a sunset above the
clouds. Although we are only 4 minutes away from the destination,
and as you can see, we’re all in a rush. Also fuel is running out. It says 38 km
left, but from above we’ll be rolling more merrily. Oh, I see a sun dot. Maybe we’re not going in vain. Wow. put on a light jacket, because
it’s chilly here. Look at what we have. This is one of the few spots where you can drive a car so high up. Just an ideal place for lazy hikers or
such late tourists as I today.
The summit of Pico do Areiro at 1818m And what a surprise it was? As they say,
the best things happen when you don’t expect them. Here is also the famous trail
to the sky, but I decided not to take it. Why spoil such a moment with another
tourist attraction when you can simply sit on the rocks and watch as
the sun slowly sinks into the clouds. In these moments you no longer notice people. Only
the wind noise and the feeling that you’re on the top of the world. But that was not all. When the sun set,
the sky offered a bonus. The Venus belt appeared. The same pink-blue
tint above the horizon that you are now observing.
How cool that was. By the way, during my travels I occasionally offer strangers to take photos or videos. First they’re surprised,
but always agree, like these girls from France. In my opinion, it turned out very
atmospheric. As you can see, from my
satisfied face, I’m simply astonished by my visit here. I rode
by chance, and got what I was hoping for yesterday at dawn but didn’t get. So I left happy to go home to sleep. At this moment the list of my duties
to accomplish, though shrinking, I still hadn’t met a good dawn, and
that only meant one thing: tomorrow I won’t again get enough sleep. Good morning.
I’m off for another dawn. In the morning I need to do a hike and meet
a nice dawn. Let’s go. waking up again a few hours before
sunrise, this time I decided to choose the
PR8, the safest route to the most eastern nfrom here? but the tag shows PR8, which seems incomplete. The text: маршрут PR8 leads to the easternmost peninsula of Madeira. The length of the path there and back is about 8 km. And the landscape here is completely different from the rest of the island. Very strong wind, and instead of dense forests, colorful volcanic
rocks and minimal vegetation. When you’re here, I recommend coming before dawn. First, all this beauty will be just for you. Second, you’ll have where to park, and third, you won’t walk 4 hours under the scorching
sun. Almost at the end of the route there will be a small
cafe and rest area. And after it, after a fairly steep ascent
the main viewpoint to the easternmost point of Madeira, where another lighthouse stands. Mission accomplished.
We greeted dawn in a very cool place. Now we need to find coffee. And if I don’t
find it, I’ll have breakfast without coffee. I carry everything with me.
Six girls and all in white sneakers. And they’re probably carrying my coffee, which I didn’t
drink. The staff records. The route there and back usually takes
about three to four hours at a calm pace. And as you can see, when I came here, there were only a few single tourists, and now, when I return, there are hundreds. Surrounded from all sides. But it’s good that
an uncle was nearby, so now he will drive away. And this is what I was talking about. Literally
a few hours difference and that’s all. Parking near you won’t work.
Only a few kilometers further. Therefore Madeira is about the right
timing. Each location has its own perfect time. And most importantly, plan everything correctly. In the guide I’ve for you done this and detailed everything. As
you can see, the sun has already risen, and the weather seems great, but that’s not my topic. I love when the light is soft. So I thought where to go at such a time and decided to go to the airport to film planes landing.
And there awaited me one pleasant surprise.
It’s coming, now it should turn around. So, how do you like it?
It would be a very cool shot if I pressed the record button, accidentally
stopped, damn. But it was cool. Now I’ll see how long until the next one has to wait. Damn,
the next one in half an hour, and I’m just by the water, so I think I’ll go down to dip my legs, because it’s hot today right under the takeoff runway. Yes, much better. So, shall we try again, In my opinion, it turned out not bad. Then in 20
minutes from here I headed to one of the highest coastal cliffs in Europe, height 580 m above the Atlantic Ocean. At the very edge of the cliff, a famous glass observation deck Skywalk, like the one I showed you in Croatia. Once entry here was free, but now it costs a symbolic €3. Here you come out onto a transparent floor, under which there’s almost 600 m chasm. And around a wide panorama of the southern coast of Madeira. But since access here is very easy, the place is accordingly popular and there’s no shortage of tourists from morning to evening. Nice place, but a lot of people, so you can drop by if you’re passing. Of course,
at the same time you can have a coffee, which I plan to do now. And while I’m drinking coffee, let’s talk about how locals live here in general. Every year this island hosts almost six times more guests than it has residents. Therefore it’s not surprising that tourism is the main source of income for locals. On the one hand, the island offers a high quality of life, wonderful climate, almost complete safety with a tiny crime rate, strong family and neighborhood ties. Nobody hurries anywhere. And on the other hand Madeira is a small island with few opportunities for youth. If you want to become a surgeon or engineer, go study on the mainland. And since it’s hard to find a job by specialty at home, many don’t return. Therefore the average age of the population is rising, and some mountain villages are almost empty. Prices for most goods here are higher than on the continent, because everything on the island, except local fruits and vegetables, wine and beer, is imported, and salaries
are lower. A significant portion of people work in tourism as waiters, housekeepers or salespeople and earn minimum wage. Yes, recently there was a case when workers of the largest hotel chain tried to strike for higher salaries, but only two out of 1200 employees dared to protest. Now locals often joke about this topic. But let’s return to my coffee, after which I felt a surge of energy and decided why not to conquer the main peak of Madeira before sleep. Pico Ruivo. Only about 3-4
hours through the mountains. So let’s head to the starting point. Who knows, maybe the weather will cooperate. For now the weather, as you can see, is so-so at this
height, but I hope, I’ll climb higher with my legs. A second hike for the day. Normal.
Tomorrow I’ll be lying in bed instead of meeting the dawn somewhere. Although, let’s see. I’ll go to the summit via the PR 1.2 trail,
length 2.8 km one way with an ascent of about 300 m. Let’s begin. Darn, I’m turning back.
I forgot to change shoes. I don’t want to risk with a bad tetanus shot. My off-roaders. And just in case I’ll take a rain cloak with me. There. I really liked this trail. well
maintained, didn’t feel any extreme, but there were very cool
landscapes. And because of a 300 m altitude difference between the parking lot and the summit, I could also walk among the clouds. Oh, I’m going to miss Madeira for sure, walking among the clouds like this. The road up took a little more
than an hour. And now I can say it officially. Here I am, officially on the summit of Madeira. The sun rises and sets. It rises and sets.
It rises, sets, rises, sets. Sorry, that’s probably dopamine for me. Yes, guys, girls, remember,
if your nose starts to run, it’s time to put on a sweater.
How nice it is when your efforts are not in vain.
That’s exactly why I flew to Madeira. And downhill it’s so much nicer to go.
Beauty. It makes you want to run, but you have to protect your knees.
Home always feels shorter, right? Good morning.
Today I’m leaving these apartments, because
they were booked for the whole period, since they were unavailable, so we’ll move to a
hotel, but not for long. This time I rented the hotel in a very authentic village, but the accommodation there will be today only after
lunch. Since yesterday I walked several tens of kilometers, today I decided
simply to stroll around the town center. And first I headed to the main market
of the city. There’s everything here: from fish and various trinkets to
any local fruits or vegetables. Prices are somewhat higher than in the villages,
but everything is in one place. But I came to the market not for groceries,
there’s a small cafe on a terrace with good reviews, so I’ll have
coffee in the morning. You often write to me why in my
films I tell so little about local cuisines, dishes, and so on. Well, all
because when you travel alone, it’s more like work for you. You have
goals and deadlines, and various cafes are
big time-wasters that only
distract from the main thing. I can’t And here are a few examples of what I
mean. In Funchal I found a good, n small, authentic place, away from the
center with wonderful reviews. I came, and n there was a two-hour queue until a table frees up. As a result n I left hungry and time wasted. Then, here’s another case.
Before bed I wanted something n hot. I thought I’d try
Portuguese cuisine. Besides, I love n soups, and in Portugal they are what n you need. I saw many people sitting. Looked at the menu, there is a soup and everyone
praised, recommended. Went in, asked if they have it? They say: “No, unfortunately, not. Only during lunch.” Then I go further, looking at the menu. Borsch, n solyanchka. I really wanted solyanka, 100 years since I’ve eaten it. That’s what I need. Very hearty, nice. n I feel I’ll come here every n evening while I am in Madeira. But don’t worry, for this trip I
tasted almost all the main traditional dishes. And with some crushing not avoided.
I stopped at one local n authentic little restaurant.
Sat on the terrace, ordered one of their n traditional dishes Espetada. This is such a
phenomenon, like a skewer hanging on a n stick. And of course the soup, where would you be without
the soup. And also traditional bread with garlic.
Very much heard about it, so n I want to taste.
Well, of course, a bit too much of everything n for me, but we’ll eat half and take the other half with us. The main thing is that n it is tasty. I’m full from soup, and then look, how much they brought me. And where to eat it n by myself?
By the way, at home do you have such tools, n to strip a skewer from the shish?
It turns out there is a special instrument, and n not with a fork to strip it.
But I didn’t like the espetada. The shish is like a shish, only in my case n almost cold and hard. But the potatoes and the soup were perfect.
Regarding desserts, the main on the island is – n this Bolo de Mel. Some honey cake, n which is baked on sugarcane stalks with a bunch of different spices,
dried fruits and nuts, and also where on n Madeira. Although finding it was not easy.
I’ve been to three cafes now, looking for n a traditional Madeira pastry. I don’t know, n cottage cheese, cheese, which we’ll try, n let’s see, because in the two previous there wasn’t any. Hope to find it here. n Visually resembles our сочник (syrnik). One can say it is our сочник, so there is
something in common with Madeira. But let’s get back to our adventures.
I stayed in this hotel-restaurant n A pretty good deal turned out at 65€. Breakfast included,
a normal comfortable room, jacuzzi, n pool. If you want, we can check in. Oh, good. Phew. This hotel is located in a small
old town Santana in the north. This n is the place where tourists go to
see how Madeira lived before the mid-20th century. Here is a small open-air museum with a reconstruction of authentic small triangular houses
Palheiro. Now they are very hard to find on the island and because of this they are even more
fascinating. Once people lived in them, stored crops and hid from the wind. Today, they’re selling souvenirs. was covered with thatch and descended almost to the ground. The reason for this design is the simplicity of construction and cheap material, and also
protection from rain and wind. Inside these huts was a living area with one or two rooms, and the attic served as a storeroom and drying place where hay was stored and corn and various beans were hung. The smoke from the stove below dried and preserved them well. Now images of Palheiro are on any
Madeira souvenirs, but the huts themselves are hard to find. So to visit here at least to look at them and understand how Also near Santana is the town of Santa Viste, where on a hill one of the most recognizable symbols of northern Madeira rises. I always wanted to visit near one chapel in Madeira.
I don’t know how much it stands out among others. And as I was passing by,
I think I’ll drop in. Have a look at it. Most likely you have seen it too sometime
before. It is a small tower-shaped church with a clock on each side.
The chapel is so well placed on the cliff that it is visible from almost any
point of the San Vicente valley. And interestingly, this clock does not work.
Its hands are stuck at different times on each of the four sides of the tower. So that you have it good. I’ve just got off the bell. And it is tall, I must say. From the bottom you drive by, you see on the hill some chapel. You think, small, but
here, I don’t know, five floors. Now I’ll tell you exactly.
But my eye estimate is so good that five floors. Its height is 15 m. I wonder, is this the house of a local priest or
not? At this moment, effectively, most
of the problems I set for myself I have solved. I met the sunrise on the east of the island, sunset on the west, met the sunset on one peak, and then on another. I also As you remember, the levada of 25 springs disappointed me a bit. It was too sunny and crowded. I dreamed of walking one of them in rainy or foggy weather. It seems to me this is ideal condition for such n forests. So I have one unresolved gestalt left. And I very much hope to close it tomorrow. Especially since tomorrow I already leave the island and there will be no other chance. n Rain. Well, are you ready for hiking?
No, not ready. Ahead 14 km and almost 6 hours of walking. So we need to first fuel up with coffee and proteins from carbohydrates. This is route PR9, a le vada literally called The Green Pot, into which you are here immersed. All around is green of a damp forest with gigantic laurels, mosses and ferns. And it seemed the drizzle should hinder, but exactly because of it the forest was even more magical with fog and but quite long. The one-way path takes almost 7 km and passes through four caves, where by tradition you must hit your head on the ceiling. And at the end awaited me the culmination, an almost one-hundred-meter waterfall. falling into an emerald grotto. If you don’t mind, I won’t swim, but I’ll still try the water. I love testing this activity to see what the water is like. Well, to be honest, it’s cool. Not as alpine as a lake, but a bit chilly river. Reached here in about 2 and a half hours. Probably been here for about 40 minutes. And now I can head back. Back, I think I’ll manage in two. Or maybe I won’t make it back sooner. More people are starting to go. It’s tough. We will stretch now.
I can feel it. It’s all like on a highway.
And not only moving there and back, but ahead some old man will stand. And you will walk with such speed that
excuse me, I have hysterical laughter. Laughter with tears everywhere. Eventually, I overtook the old man, and the thought of hot coffee at the cafe at the end of the route n warmed my soul. I really liked this trail. Rain, fog, hot coffee. What else is needed? Came to pay for parking,
scanned ticket 9.50, plugged in a bill, it spit back, something
not accepted. The car says: “Rescan the ticket.”
Scanned now 10. And it accepted the bill.
Then 20 minutes down to the sea and I am already drying in the sun. There you go, Madeira. I don’t know what to do. There’s not much time left before the plane arrives.
Came, took a citron to look at the ocean, sit a little.
As I said, Madeira is an island eternal spring, so you can fly here at any time. And while I work on a new video, watch this. At the moment it is my personally favorite. Hugged, lifted, and see you there.

Мадейра… Острів, який називають “островом вічної весни”. Колись він здавався мені чимось незрозумілим – екзотичною крапкою на карті, але тепер я точно знаю — це місце особливе.

Гори над хмарами, лаврові ліси, дикі узбережжя, левади, виноградники і навіть катання на… санях… І це далеко не все, що чекає вас тут.

Я дослідив Мадейру з різних боків, щоб відчути її справжню атмосферу: від шумних вуличок старого міста до повної тиші серед туманних гір.

У цьому фільмі ви побачите найцікавіші локації, почуєте історії острова і зрозумієте, чому він так сильно відрізняється від континентальної Португалії.

І окремий респект усім, хто додивиться до кінця! Найцікавіше з’являється тоді, коли його не чекаєш 😉 

📘 ПУТІВНИК: https://tinyurl.com/2nzvzuy4 – перші 10 щасливчиків отримають 50% знижку.

🤝 Співпраця – hi@ivansomewhere.com
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🚕 В своїх подорожах я завжди бронюю автомобілі тут: https://rentalcars.tp.st/zoaI05kO
00:00 Це не можна пропускати
02:54 Кашу – геть!
04:56 Сюди летять не за цим
08:41 Обережніше на поворотах
11:10 Від бетону до…
13:59 Пригоди починаються
17:09 Чуда не сталося?
19:33 Ховаючись від сонця
23:32 Ухх…
26:10 Флешбеки
28:20 Так і знав
29:32 Ризикнув
32:47 Дайте поспати
36:52 Пляж під аеропортом
38:38 Не Хорватія?
39:42 2 сміливця
41:23 Місцевий Еверест
45:27 Чому ти не Кацурін?
53:03 Не висадіться!
54:40 Незакритий гештальд
58:05 Не можу випередити діда

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Більше великих випусків тут: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJfWcVrc1DQCqulwlB1qWif06NUtPZKdm