Guardate come ci hanno TRATTATO in TOSCANA – GIRO D’ITALIA IN MOTO – ep4-s4

Guardate come ci hanno TRATTATO in TOSCANA – GIRO D’ITALIA IN MOTO – ep4-s4

And good morning from me too. The bike is in the garage along the ZTL (limited traffic zone), Hotel San Michele, and there, at the end, is the main square of Cortona. Now we’re off again. It’s a very interesting route because we’ll be passing through Castiglion Fiorentino, Valce, and heading to Anghiari. The climb isn’t a small one, and with the bike loaded, it’s best to warm up the engine. They told me the exit should be the second one on the left, then all the way to the end there’s a gate and you exit. It should be Monte Miata. In the distance, you can glimpse Lake Trasimeno over this enormous valley. Coming down from Cortona, there’s this little stretch of SR142, super boring and very busy, even with traffic lights. And finally, 100 meters at the roundabout, we leave the SR142 for another road that I thought would be less busy. Market this morning in Castiglion Fiorentino. The traffic should have cleared by now, though, so we’re enjoying these endless curves with the view on the right, as well as a definitely more pleasant temperature because it was 33°C (91°F) at the end. [Music] W [Music] an endless succession of olive trees. The asphalt isn’t perfect, the road isn’t wide, but the advantage is that practically no one passes. Now we begin the descent. I thought I’d find a slightly better temperature, but we’re still at 32°, or rather 31°. In fact, the temperature felt slightly lower. I descended to the pass with my head spinning from the endless curves. The area we’re crossing between the municipalities of San Sepolcro, Anghiari, and Monterchi is a place of excellence for the cultivation of Kentaki tobacco, a variety used to produce the outer casing of Tuscan cigars. Tobacco cultivation arrived in the Tiber Valley in 1574, when the ambassador to France of the Grand Duke of Tuscany sent some seeds of the plant native to Central America to his nephew, the bishop of San Sepolcro. The first commercial cultivations took place around 1600, and the tobacco was distinguished by its exceptional quality. Since 1910, the Tiber Valley has invested in the sector, which is now the basis of the area’s economy and a driving force for culture. The intense green leaves, shortly before harvest, turn canary yellow and finally brown after the color-fixing and drying processes before being canned. Kentaki tobacco from these areas is considered among the top grades and is known throughout the world. And welcome to Anghiari. Let’s try to understand something. Let’s try to go down this street, which should be the main street. But it’s beautiful, with historic buildings on either side. Extremely typical. Sorry I opened my visor, but I can’t help it with the temperature. Let’s see if we can find a spot in the shade. “Rome or death,” Garibaldi said. Here it is. Here it is. The beauty of the motorbike. Okay. [Music] Anghiari is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, but what makes it important from a historical perspective is that the Battle of Anghiari was fought on the plain below, where Florentine and Milanese troops faced each other . The former prevailed, and Florence annexed this territory to its government. Leonardo da Vinci immortalized this battle with a fresco, which unfortunately has been lost. The town is made unique and inimitable by the steep and characteristic ruga that crosses it and along which it develops. It is home to one of the oldest palios in Tuscany, already established by the Florentines to celebrate the famous battle of June 29, 1440. It has been run since 1441. Today, the uphill road known as La Croce is walked or run, with runners wearing the colors of their respective municipalities. [Music] And back down to Earth again, now exactly 30 km to the Spino Pass. We’ll climb to 15 meters, and the road should be very pleasant, as it’s a popular road for motorcyclists. It’s only a few kilometers to Pieve Santo Stefano, but it must be said that the asphalt isn’t very good, with lots of bumps. So, again, I’d like to point out that this suspension needs replacing. Or rather, to avoid any misunderstanding, it’s not a complete wreck, but it’s also not performing as well as aftermarket suspension, as is obviously the case with aftermarket suspension. It’s a real pain in the ass. Let’s go full throttle, especially since these roads, as they say, are the death of this bike. [Music] In theory, we have the last 4 km here, so dynamic riding mode. We’re also removing the controls, just to get Sara talking a bit. You see, the weight is too heavy at the back. It’s rising, guys, we’ve reached 100 m, but we’re going to check because, as always, we don’t trust anyone, and in fact we’re at 1057 m, as Sara claimed. Yes, because the Spino Pass is marked as 15 m. Some people claimed it was 1057. We confirm. It’s famous for its time trial, starting from the Pieve Santo Stefano side. It took place from 1965 to 1997, following the same route. It’s become a bit of a parade rather than a competition. This year, it will take place on September 27th and 28th. Along the way, we can admire the Chiusi della Verna sanctuary, built on a rocky spur. Even CarPlay tells me to take a coffee break; perhaps it has a curve counter built into the software, a sort of pass counter for a motorbike I recently passed. Now, lots of curves again to get over the Croce ai Mori pass. I don’t dare think about the tire temperature; they feel slightly softer than usual. Anyway, these tires, despite the half-block tread, the weight, the temperatures, what can you say? We’ve entered the province of Florence. We just took a detour due to the wave. The road, as you can see, is even smaller. It almost seems like a single lane. A small town. I don’t know if it’s inhabited today. This, for me, is the swimming pool or the bowling alley. But the good thing is that we haven’t seen a car in about an hour. Maybe it’s better not to. We’re descending steeply here while the temperature is climbing 33°. Now, write in the comments if anyone has ever driven this road, the one that leads to wave 35. If we continue descending here, we’ll end up in hell. Here’s the provincial road , Londa. My big sister finds me a bit unwell these days. I have to get used to the high temperatures again, and also to the motorbike. That’s normal. So with your partners, wives, girlfriends, you always have to make a point, never give up. No, no, there are women much better than me and there are women who drive, so I won’t say anything. Yes, but I’ll say it, I’ll say it, I’m unlucky. You can say it out loud. Guys, how can you live in London with these temperatures in this valley? The wave is very nice, though, and after about 30 minutes at 36 it gave us a treat. 37 because Vicchio, which is Giotto’s hometown, welcomes us with a real plus. Giotto, I’m superior. Just past Borgo San Lorenzo, the racetrack, the Mugello. Now in search of a bit of cool air. [Music] The Mugello circuit can be seen. Last three, four, five hairpin bends. We answer our friend Andrea Mini live . I’m recording you, I’m doing the last three hairpin bends of the game pass. So, Andrea, we missed it. We’ll see you at the last hairpin bend. Oh, okay. And we’re there. Now let’s find something to eat and a little bit of shade. Game pass, 882 m above sea level. I thought it would be a little cooler, but hot, guys, so hot. I want to share something with you, to let you know how I’ve been these past three or four days. Going down without realizing it because I don’t even know where the button actually is, I did this and I scared myself, as if to say, “Who’s honking at me? You’re even honking at me .” It’s also true that today we did 2 million bends with these temperatures, it’s tough. It’s tough. Enough chit-chat, but this place, the pace of the game, is also important because it was here that the Gothic Line was breached, the line the Germans had placed after the Gustav Line, which crossed the Italian peninsula at the narrowest point between Lazio and Campania up to Ortona, had been breached on May 18th. Both had been commissioned by Hitler and established precisely to slow the advance of the Americans coming up from southern Italy. And after a sandwich and a caffè tozzo, we set off again in company. Today we’re lucky because we have local guides. It must be said that the Tuscan-Emelian Apennines are breathtaking. Let’s just say that Andrea and Fabio will give us a good taste of them. From a motorcycling perspective, it must be said. that from the game pass if you continue towards the futta a lot of stuff. Going down to Firenzuola, you go back up to reach the Futa pass. [Music] Hairpin bend. [Music] Penultimate hairpin bend to get to the top. In fact, the Futa pass is 0.3 km away. German military cemetery. Since I have the connections, this would be private. Motorcycle parked, thanks to the recommended person. Let us introduce him to you. Here he is. He lives 2 km away, so he knows the situation, now he will be our guide. Enough. No, let’s not exaggerate. We also have the navigator, co-pilot. Yes, yes, I look a little tired, I see. Don’t ski, good content. A map of the enormous site and three books with the names of very young men and boys in alphabetical order welcome the visitor to the largest German memorial in Italy, inaugurated on June 28, 1969, where soldiers fallen during the Second World War rest. The victorious powers only granted Germany the right to build cemeteries in war-torn towns in the 1950s. The numbers are staggering: more than 30,000 soldiers. The area around the Futa Pass was the scene of battles, aerial bombardments, and reprisals against the civilian population for the so-called Gothic Line. These are photos of Firenzuola days after the Allied attack on the Gothic Line, including photos before, during, and after the bombing, and what remained of the town center in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. Allied German troops clashed on Hitler’s defensive line, and on April 21, 1945, the German Apennine defenses collapsed under heavy fighting. A 2,000-meter-long wall spirals up the mountain, enclosing the graves of the fallen on terraces and ending with a slab of wall that rises steeply toward the sky, telling you it’s a lightning strike. But I know it’s different, because if you look closely, from the entrance where I told you, there’s a low wall that high. It’s the story of life. One is born, grows up, then goes up there. From there, a staircase leads to the memorial room in the crypt. At the entrance, their names are engraved on five large natural stone tombstones. Panzers with all the military divisions that have placed plaques, all bearing flags. The little girl kills. We saw below that there’s a list of the soldiers buried here, but Andrea was telling us another story that is constantly updated. There are three of these cemeteries in Italy: one toward Cassino, this one on Futa, and another on Ostermano. So when researchers find remains or what looks like human remains, the local Carabinieri say, “Yes, it’s a human remains,” they sort it out, and bring it here. Not all the bodies had this insignia, but in some cases it’s found, so there’s a name and surname, and from there they can even trace the family members if they’re still alive, which has happened many times. It’s a never-ending story, like in all wars. They tell us it’s beautiful here at sunset because the sun sets in this direction and everything turns pink and orange. We’re in a borderland , in fact, just a few kilometers from Romagna, and as usual in borderlands, people tease each other a bit, creating parochialism. Andrea, what’s this saying in Italian? We’re in an area where the Santerno River rises, and there’s a saying for 1,000 years that says the land bathed by the Santerno River speaks Tuscan in the Romagna region. Which, in a Tuscan Romagnolo way, would be the land between Santerne Bagna and Scor Tuscan in the land of Rumagia. Top. I’m not good at it. Well done. Off we go. And here’s the Futa Pass. 903 m. And anyway, guys, I have to admit that going around with a local guide is always pleasant. Then when the guides are friends of friends, even if the mutual friend is a bit of a bean, we take the opportunity to say hello. Hi Manuele. Look, look what he’s doing up front. We also say hello to Fabio in the back because we have the broom man. Andrea is pointing out the trattoria Dal Bibo and his house. He basically lives here but grew up over there. And then the locals tell you things you’d never know . Let’s admit that these are also beautiful areas despite their ruggedness. They told us It used to snow a lot here, but that doesn’t happen anymore. If it snows, it takes two or three days and it’s all melted again. Maybe it’s the heat we felt getting here, but I think living in these parts isn’t bad. We enter Firenzuola. [Music] I get off the bike again. We’re lucky because Andrea doesn’t, we take that from him. I ‘ve been a stonemason for 33 years, 35 of them working, 33 of them working with pietra serena. Obviously, they’re made in a more modern way. Down here, where we’ll enter now, you can clearly see the ancient craft that’s disappearing, but mine is almost disappearing too. In fact, I’m vice president of the Stonemasons’ Association of Firenzuola. Here we’re trying to carry on this tradition that exists in this small town: the stonemasons, precisely, tiring, hard work, but also very satisfying. I mean, we have Michelangelo della Pietra Serena nearby , and they are the artisans, those ancient crafts that unfortunately are being lost in all parts of Italy . Let’s say Tuscany is quite a master at this. Let’s go. [Music] This is our headquarters in the Pietra Serena Museum, the Municipality has already given us its approval, including this historic headquarters here. A fully equipped laboratory to carry on this school and try to pass on, as I said before, this blessed work that unfortunately is being lost. There are some young people interested in our small way; we’ve had five young people, one of whom is him, one of the most interested, but he’s still studying, he’s getting his degree. Unfortunately, when you arrive, as we say here, at the gates of Cosassi, when you get there to cross the threshold as a student or an enthusiast, starting in the morning at 8:00 and finishing in the evening at 5:30 to actually work, it’s a beautiful job, it’s interesting, there’s no more of it. Nowadays, craftsmanship is dying out. The biggest tragedy, in my opinion, is that Italy could teach the whole world. Here, there’s the tradition of Pietra Serena Carrara and that of marble. Yet it is precisely Italy that is losing the most in this regard. In our small way, we are also attracted by foreigners who have contacted us by email, who would like to learn about the material, learn how to work it, also because they are restorers and before restoring something, in this case Pietra Serena, they want to know the material, first the knowledge of how they used to be made and then whether they can get their hands on it. [Music] They are a bit like shoes, everyone has their own. These are not mine; I am partly responsible for making them. This is a simple thing, it’s called V-cutting. [Music] marble to say it works well, but it’s another thing, harder at first. In any case, this should all be removed. Ettore tells us that until the 1950s, the removal of the cappellaccio technique was used to extract Pietra Serena. Once they reached the block to be removed, they would spend the whole day banging and turning the iron pole, the palamina, making holes along the mountain’s pavement. Before the arrival of gunpowder, they inserted wooden poles the same diameter as the palamina. Wetting them made them swell, thus splitting the stone. With the arrival of gunpowder, once they were removed, the sticks were inserted inside and then detonated. To avoid damaging the material, the stonecutter would manually create grooves called pockets all around the block to be extracted, standing astride it. They were then inserted inside the wedges to act as leverage. By slamming the block with a mallet, it opened. That forge there was built with the remains of an ammunition box. Pietra Serena was initially not used as an ornamental stone or to finish houses, but for the production of essential household goods. This is done by hand, but with small hammers, as I explained before, pneumatic, with tips like these, you can travel with. Once instead we do it like this, these are the rows of quarry seen in front of the mountain cellar, I also find the pietra serena there with the same movements. The pattern, the movement of the central Apennines, is always the same. These are the bad pieces, then you return to a good bench, obviously starting from the top and working your way down. The one at the bottom is the oldest and therefore also the hardest in theory. Then there are the various stratifications based on the era, also based on the movement of the Earth’s crust itself. There are orange marks that aren’t called rust in jargon, but are the flows of ferrous water that leave and damage among us that are still found today. Outcrops of pietra serena. We also have it near Florence; all of Florence was made here in the 16th century. Michelangelo, who was Michelangelo, struck the first hammer blows on the Pietra Serena. The staircase in the Laurentian Library is entirely of Pietra Serena, from the Maiano quarries. This entirely hand-crafted work was donated by the family of a stonemason upon his death, along with all his tools. And more finds at the point where we are now digging under blocks of earth, in this case dating back to the 10th century. Two master stonemasons from my association, Simone and Alberto, donated it and took it from a Florentine coat of arms. Instead of the Florentine lily, they made the Firenzuola coat of arms, which is half lily and half cross. This too, carved entirely from solid stone and entirely carved by hand. A student of Filippo Brunelleschi is clearly attempting to create the herringbone technique on a small scale. The bricks reach up to this level here, all in line, and then begin to form a herringbone pattern. This rupola is self-supporting; it stands up on its own once dry. And finally, the work of a stonemason who made his chisels by hand. The outing is over and the motorbike is safe. Thanks to our guardian, aka this guy here. This guy here. Now we’ll bring him some kibble and some water. Thank you. Firenzuola, about 4,000 inhabitants, is one of the largest municipalities in Italy, precisely because it has so many hamlets scattered across the Apennines. We’re in the province of Florence, and both Andrea and Fabio are keen to point out that their dialect is less strict than the specific Florentine one. So maybe we can start a fight, which is always a bit of fun. Let’s leave Firenzuola as a municipality for now and head back up into the Tuscan-Emidian Apennines [Music] and change route again, but it must be admitted that in these parts, on a motorcycling level—look at the quality of the asphalt, but also the number of curves, not to mention this almost sunset-like panorama—the view that surrounds us. [Music] It’s truly a playground for motorcyclists. That’s why everyone around here is good at riding a motorbike. That’s why there’s also a very, very important international circuit around here. Obviously, with this Panzer and Sara behind me, I can’t have as much fun as they are. Sara, who is a double Panzer. Francesco is saying this, in my opinion, it’s the most beautiful stretch we’ve ever done on a motorbike. Peglio, a hamlet of Firenzuola. Make a note of the SP117, guys. It’s the jewel in the crown in these areas, in our opinion. That one over there that we see, a little shrouded in haze, is Bologna. And Andrea told us that sometimes when there’s a storm and the sun comes out and everything is clear, you can even see the silhouettes of the Dolomites in the distance. This is the view from 856 m above sea level. [Music] [Music] The colors of the sunset are starting to paint themselves in the sky. The Apennines, where winter is very long, are now giving us unforgettable summer moments. And now we’re off to take the last pass of the day after having done 1000, which is the Passo della Raticosa. Oh, another very short stretch, [Music] everyone facing the sunset. The smell of meat. Here, Sunday is Saturday, not even. This is the most famous one. We’ve reached our destination, guys, I’m exhausted. Today we did 10 hours and 30 minutes, I think a million curves. Then tomorrow we’ll show you the place slowly because even the road to get there was fabulous. [Music] BL [Music] reach for the [Music] this where I belong look me what I become. [Applause] I’ve been running looking for something diing deep. What I thought was sitting in my paring in all [Music] I think it’s time for me to go all bridges. All I know I got along the way between the stitches. Time to let go. [Music] Don’t look before you what you get to so long by let to for those And my crooked little seem so rebel fallingart right now. I’m easy kill it all behind. Ah.

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