Kerala, l’Inde sacrée entre jungle et traditions – Montagnes – Temples — Documentaire voyage – AMP
Welcome to the self-proclaimed
God’s Own Country… Kerala, this small state located in the
south of India is a place apart. Land of history, commerce, nature and culture, sanctuary
of India’s living traditions. Kerala is rich, prosperous and peaceful.
It boasts 100% literacy, near-perfect parity, and a
long-standing ecological commitment… It would therefore be God’s Own Country. I decide to go and meet the men
and women who inhabit this blessed land. It is they who will reveal to me the meaning
of this nickname rich in promise. The iconic backwaters
that stretch almost the entire length of Kerala’s coast
will be the first stop on my route. So I take the
traditional boat of the region, the Ketuvallam, to reach the town of Aleppey. The backwaters are a very
complex set of lagoons, lakes, and canals, running parallel to the Arabian Sea, and
set back from the Malabar Coast. This vast waterway, called the
Green Venice of the East, is a unique geological formation and has always been used
for the transport of goods. My name is Arun Kumar.
I have been working in this company for 10 years. I am a boat driver. And I go around this
region called Kuttanad. You can travel anywhere on
the backwaters with these boats. Earlier, they were used to transport bricks,
building materials, food, spices and all kinds of goods
from remote provinces to Kochi. Now they are used for
backwater rides. Here we are on Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala.
It is 2250 km2. What I like most here is
that you can fish as much as you want. I really like this place, it
‘s truly magnificent. There’s everything you need to live here. We fish with rods during the day
and at night we use nets. From 5:30 p.m., the lake fills with nets.
And at 5 a.m., they come to collect them. Here we catch a fish called “Kari Meen”.
It is traditionally cooked in a banana leaf.
This is the best way to prepare it. There is also a small fish
named “Pullu” which is delicious. And the shrimps found here are just
as delicious, they are truly the best. All the fish that comes from the backwaters
are really particularly delicious. Food and even gastronomy
have a central place in the local culture which boasts a rich and varied cuisine. To help me discover it, the chef prepares
a traditional and luxurious meal for me on board the boat. In Kerala cuisine,
fennel seeds, peppermint, dry and powdered ginger, red chili, coriander powder,
turmeric, fenugreek are widely used… All the spices! My favorite thing is to
brown the spices in a pan, then add coconut milk. It is
with coconut milk that the spices reveal all their flavors.
Plus, it smells so good! In this interlacing of canals,
bathed in infinite grace, where earth and sky merge,
time seems to have stood still. Along the water, I arrive at Allepey
where numerous treatment centers of local medicine known as Ayurvedic line
the canals. In this ancient science, spices also play a central role,
but this time therapeutic. Hello,
Welcome to Keraleyam Ayurvedic Massage Center,
Follow me for a massage session. Body massages are
called Abhyankam in Ayurveda. They allow the energy of any person to circulate well in the body by acting
on the different pressure points. Here, to treat the patient, the
body is treated as a whole. Different therapeutic massage techniques
aim to revitalize blood circulation so that the medicinal oils used
can produce their effect. Another technique is to enclose medicinal plants and spices
in a cloth which is heated before being applied
by tapping on the patient’s body, following the muscular network
and according to a very precise science. The patient is laid on his back,
his eyes are protected, and very precise calculations are made to determine the height at
which the Shirodhara wick is positioned, and the quantity of oil that will be used. The medicinal oils are heated and
placed in a jar above the patient. Then the liquid escapes
through a small hole underneath. Even if the oil only flows on the forehead, the third eye, the whole
body feels its effects. When the oil passes through the skin, it
heats the pressure points of the nervous system called “Marma”. The entire balance
of the nervous system is thus strengthened. It also balances the hormonal system
through its action on the pituitary gland which is stimulated and balanced by
the flow of oil on the forehead. These techniques allow good
circulation of energy and therefore develop work capacities. In Ayurveda we say: SWASTHASYA
SWASTHYA RAKSHANAM ATURASYA ROGA NIVARANAM This means that the objective
of Ayurveda is twofold: To preserve and maintain the
health of those who are fit. It is a matter of harmony, every man has the
opportunity to lead a healthy and balanced life. And secondly for people
who are sick, Ayurveda can cure them by recreating the natural balance. Ayurvedic medicine aims for harmony of body
and mind, and is based on the Vedas, a collection of Indian texts and oral customs
more than five thousand years old. In Sanskrit, the terminology “Ayurveda” is
broken down into two words – “ayur” and “veda” – which literally translate to “life” and “science”.
Ayurveda is therefore the science of life. Based on this founding principle, this
traditional medicine considers the human being as an element
of the universe in the same way as the following five elements:
earth, water, fire, air and void. Ayurveda considers all flora and
fauna as elements of medicine. In our science everything that grows on this
planet can be used as medicine. Spices play a
particularly important role in this. And if Ayurvedic medicine has its roots
in Kerala, it is because it has been able to draw on the riches of its territory, which produces a
large number of excellent quality spices. Sebastian, a 100% natural Ayurvedic gardener, takes me to his garden to
show me his plants. Here I have different kinds
of spices and herbs. I have over 200 species of plants. And the spices I grow
are of very good quality. There are 52 spices. And, in Ayurveda we use these 52 spices.
All the plants I grow are for Ayurvedic use whether it is
spices, herbs or fruits. This is the clove plant. The plant has been harvested but you can
still see some cloves . When we talk about cloves,
it is mainly the bud that we use. Although we say that it is the flower that we
take, it is actually the bud that we pluck. The button is picked up and
dried for three or four days. Thanks to the sun, it takes on its color. It turns
brown, and that’s what we call clove. It is used both as a medicine
and as a spice in food. This is a nutmeg. This is a
very good quality nutmeg. Nutmeg is widely used for all
gastric problems and against acidity. And otherwise we also use
nutmeg in cooking. Now, we are going to look at our
most important spice, turmeric. This is a turmeric plant that is growing.
Turmeric is actually the root of this plant, and it is what we use
both medicinally and in food. In medicine, turmeric is
an excellent anti-poison. This is often how it is used. When you get bitten by a spider,
snake or any insect, turmeric mixed with
other leaves is used to treat it. With the root of turmeric and some leaves,
a paste is made and applied to the wound. Turmeric is a very powerful spice. There are even some scientists who say
it is a very good anti-cancer drug. All visitors who come to
visit this garden and want to buy spices can go to
this building which sells all spices. In Ayurvedic medicine,
shampoos, oils, syrups and various medicines are made. The medicines are made from
plants in my garden and sold in this store. They sell both
ready-made medicines and raw spices. COM Another local discipline where the harmony of body and mind is an art in its
own right: Katakali. This dance theatre, originating from Kerala,
is a tradition that is still very much alive. An integral part of the performance, in public
on stage and in a religious atmosphere, the dancing actors begin by putting on
makeup before playing the most famous episodes from the Mahabarata, the
Ramayana and the life of Krishna. Set to the rhythm of traditional music and
songs, Kathakali is a spectacular combination
of drama, dance and religious rituals. Completely silent, these
extremely controlled performances rely solely on facial expression,
looks and hands, or mudras. Mudra is a
codified and symbolic position of the hands and constitutes a large
part of the actors’ performance. Each mudra corresponds to the expression of a
specific feeling or situation. A combination of different mudras
thus allows for an infinite number of expressions. As the Kathakali Master says to his student:
Where the Hand goes, goes the Eye, Where the Eye goes, goes the Mind, Where the Mind goes, goes
the Soul, Where the Soul goes, there is emotion. TRAIN SEQUENCE Still stunned by the
almost mystical power of katakali, I continue my journey in
search of the soul of this state, And it is by train that I leave Allepey
to reach the great city of Kochi. To the rhythm of the passing landscapes, I let myself be
lulled by the gentle torpor of the journey with the men, women and children who populate
this beautiful, proud, rich and surprising region. After crossing a gigantic bridge, between
two arms of the sea, the outlines of the city begin to take shape.
Densely populated, the economic and historical capital, Kochi
is the largest city in Kerala. KOCHI SEQUENCE Built on a peninsula, this
sprawling city spreads over several intertwined islets between which the
ballet of boats is incessant. Facing the metal arm of the port of Kochi, the
largest Indian port, is the city’s main tourist attraction, a witness
to another era: Chinese fishing nets. This fishing technique, which had
largely fallen into disuse, was introduced by the Chinese in the 14th century. The atmosphere is sweet and romantic this
evening on the Croisette, which is filling up with vacationers coming to enjoy
a little fresh air with their families. A colonial legacy that has seduced
Keralans of all generations. Today I decide to travel around this
multicultural city aboard a traditional Rickshaw. Synagogues, churches, mosques, Hindu temples… all religions live
side by side and coexist perfectly. A reputation that my driver
is proud to share with me. Driver – in English
We are currently in a
Muslim neighborhood, with people from the state of Gujarat. In the Mattanchery district,
it is very different. All religions are mixed:
Muslims, Hindus, Christians, Jains, and there are also Buddhists.
I’ll show you that later. Dozens of minarets face the monumental bell towers
that rise into the sky. While small hotels dedicated to
local beliefs populate the streets. Here the fervor is everywhere! And in the heart of Fort Kochi, a
local curiosity, the picturesque alleys of the Jewish town, offer the remains
of a once very important Jewish community. Driver – in English Here is the synagogue! The Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1567,
remains the oldest in the Commonwealth. ASSISTANT SARAH COHEN – in English Many left for Israel around 1948.
In Kochi, there are only 3 Jews left. Her name is Sarah Cohen and her family
arrived from Iraq over 500 years ago. She is the last Cohen in Kochi. Driver – in English Let’s go!? The Jain temple in Kochi, a
very ancient faith inherited from Hinduism, also attracts many curious people. Every day around noon, flocks
of pigeons frolic in the square for the traditional bird meal.
Jainism advocates non-violence, absolute respect for life, and places
equal value on every living organism. Particularly respected in Kerala, Jains do not recognize any
supreme god except human consciousness. And this evening it is the polyphony of the
muezzin’s chants which rise from the four corners of the city and
which lulls the end of the day. Kochi or the art of living together, the capital of
God’s own country would be the city of well-being and peace. A feeling that leaves me dreamy
tonight on the lively beaches of Fort Kochi. I leave the city of Kochi towards
Munnar, 130 km to the East. Situated at an altitude of around 1600 m in the
mountain range called Western Ghats, the tea hills of Munnar are
also one of the iconic images of Kerala. I therefore continue my quest for
what makes up the soul of this state, on its summits, by delving into its
rich lands with captivating landscapes. Munnar is a vast tea garden, a
vibrant green that unfolds its gentle spirals over a multitude of hills sculpted with tea plants.
And to find out more, I am invited to the largest estate in the region. MR TEA PLANTATION The special feature of this plantation is
that it is the oldest in Munnar. In 1880, it was at this very spot
that the first tea bush was planted. The advantage is that we have kept these
very old tea plants and we continue to take cuttings from them. This is why
this tea is sold as an heirloom tea. The lifespan of a tea plant can
be up to 150 years, during which time the new leaves are picked every 12 to 15 days
. In the past, harvesting was done by hand. Now
we do semi-manual harvesting. There were not enough employees left, so sometimes
we used this intermediate solution. This is what you see behind me. Our company policy is to
harvest three leaves and one bud. So we want 3 leaves and one
bud, that’s our goal. There are some companies that
do 2 leaves and a bud, which is
a little finer form of picking. But in South India, mostly
we do 3 leaves and a bud. Because we seek
quantity as much as quality. PICKER That ‘s 3 leaves and 1 bud. Behind these tea hills, other
plantations reach out to me for hundreds of kilometers, fields of
coconut trees, fruits and spices as far as the eye can see. The next stage of my journey is further
north in Wayanad, in an ever more dense, powerful and generous nature
called the green paradise of Kerala. Deep in the forest, I will
meet the representative of an ancestral tribe closely linked to the land
and to pepper, the black gold of the region. Mr ADIVASI My name is Cheruvayal Raman. I belong to a tribal community in Wayanad.
I have been a farmer for generations. You see, this is a pepper vine.
Come on. This variety is called Panniyur-1. This one is
not from Wayanad This one on the other hand is from Wayanad.
This species is called Karingotta. It is native to Wayanad and
is the best pepper of Wayanad. It will give much more in the harvest.
It is a heavy and very productive pepper. Same for this one. We cut the vine,
we take cuttings from it, and we plant it. In the 1980s, most of the
peppers in Wayanad were destroyed. Almost all of them were destroyed around 1987. This vine is maybe 15,
20 or 30 years old now. Of the oldest varieties originating
from Wayanad, there are almost none left. The old peppers no
longer exist, they are in danger of extinction. There are very few of these
old seeds left on my land. COM India has had to rely on
very intensive agriculture to the detriment of local crops and species. Indeed, just after its independence,
India was unable to feed its growing population.
The country therefore launched the ” green revolution”, a vast program
promoting high-yield agriculture. In 2000, the
country achieved food self-sufficiency. However, this success comes with a bitter reality:
serious environmental problems and record levels of pollution due to
the massive use of pesticides and GMOs. The fall in agricultural prices, which
has ruined many farmers, pushed them into over-indebtedness and led to
a worrying number of farmer suicides. Today, a second green revolution
is being championed by alternative movements promoting sustainable and organic agriculture. ITW
suite We have been part of the Wayanad region
for several generations. We continue the same
farming methods as our ancestors. We were farming and
harvesting forest products. Before, this is what
fed us and kept us alive. At that time, crops and
natural products from the forests were enough for us to live. Even though today there are new
technologies, I try to maintain a way of life and sustainable agriculture, and these
old methods for growing seeds. We have already lost a lot of seed varieties.
Since the Green Revolution, we have lost this ancient way of farming, of producing
eggs, vegetables, plants… And we have lost a lot of
ancient seeds, especially in Kerala. Meat, fish, eggs, vegetables…
everything has gone bad since the Green Revolution. Everything that nature has
given us as a gift, we have lost. Everything that was native to Wayanad, a
great natural wealth, we have lost. That’s why I want to protect these seeds!
And I am very happy because all this, the seeds and the knowledge that I have inherited,
I will pass on to the next generations. In this way, all products,
but especially seeds, if grown naturally,
people will not have problems. They will not cause any harm to
the human body or nature. If you grow with respect for nature,
without pesticides and organically, no harm will come to nature
or to the people who eat your produce. If in Wayanad you grow properly, without pesticides, without fertilizers, only
with organic things: pepper, ginger, coffee and turmeric.
They will be the best in the world. Wayanad is a prosperous and
abundant land that enjoys an exceptional climate and biodiversity.
The qualities of this region and its precious spices had not escaped
the great explorers of the world. It was Vasco de Gama who introduced Europe to
the riches of Kerala, particularly its spices. After the discovery of America by
Christopher Columbus on behalf of Spain, the King of Portugal commissioned Vasco da
Gama to open the route to India. The navigator therefore left on July 9, 1497, at the
head of three ships and 200 crewmen. In November, he faced
the Cape of Good Hope, also called the “Cape of Storms” because of the
extreme sea conditions surrounding it. Vasco da Gama arrives in India, in Calicut,
a year after his departure from Portugal. There he founded the first Portuguese trading post
in Asia for the spice trade. So it is at the very place where Vasco da
Gama landed that I continue my journey in the pretty, popular seaside resort of Calicut. The city of spices as it was
nicknamed in the Middle Ages is now called Kozhicode. The second largest city in Kerala, it continues to be a
thriving national and international trading centre for spices. And it is in this
lively street nicknamed the Grand Bazaar that everything happens. Whether it is large farmers
producing for the international market or small producers selling
the fruit of their family harvest, wholesalers here buy
spices from the region at good prices. Calicut is also a gourmet city, renowned throughout
the country and beyond for its pastries! In all colors, flavors
and shapes, these sweets are called Halwa. Made with sugar, spices,
coconut oil and dried fruits, they are an old tradition inherited from the Turks and Arabs who
came to Kerala for the spice trade. And this surprising city is home to one of the
main schools of Kalari, an ancient martial art originating from Kerala. Whose
masters are both warriors and doctors. I am invited to learn this very
complete art which combines physical exercises, handling of weapons and meditation practices. MASTER KALARI Kalaripayutta is an ancient martial art
originating from Kerala. It dates back to the 4th century BC.
The story goes that Kalari is the mother of all martial arts forms.
In ancient times Buddhist monks and Hindu sages already practiced
this technique for self-defense. And one of the Buddhist monks established
schools in India and as far as China, through neighboring countries, to
teach and propagate Buddhism. And from there he taught his
disciples martial arts, which took different names
like Kung Fu or Karate. So he is the origin of
all martial arts. And Kalari is the mother of all martial arts. The teaching of Kalari is
composed of 3 main stages. The first step is Meythari to
learn to control your body. Thus, students practice different kinds
of body exercises, concentration, flexibility, muscle building, strength,
inspired by animal postures. All this is the first step of training.
The second stage is the Kolthari. Combat practice with
different kinds of wooden weapons. They range from 45 to 180 centimeters. In this way, students practice different
attack and defense techniques. Then they come to
metal weapons, this is the third stage of training. It’s called Ankathari. They train with different
forms of metal weapons. Daggers, 2-edged sword and shields, flexible sword, and a combination
of attack and defense stances. So this is the third
stage of training. Many accidents happen during fights,
especially sports injuries: muscle strains, fractures, nervous disorders…
Many things can happen. To treat these injuries, our ancestors
practiced Ayurvedic treatments combined with martial specificities.
They made their medicines by collecting herbs, leaves
and spices from the region. COM These students, from the age of 6, learn
both the gestures that kill and those that save, because the one who gives death
must be capable of healing. Father of all martial arts, Kalari is a search for balance
between body, mind and nature. Last and final stop on my journey: Trishur. The cultural and religious capital of
Kerala has a surprise in store for me that promises to be a colorful one to complete my quest. Today marks the third
and final day of Trisshur Pooram, a major religious
and cultural festival held annually. I am welcomed as one of them
into a local Hindu temple even though the ceremony has already begun.
I let myself be drawn into the rituals by the faithful who wish me
, too, to benefit from the aura of the moment. During the festival, in each of the
city’s temples, a holy pachyderm serves as a vehicle for the deity, whose only
opportunity to leave the temple grounds is this. Escorted by musicians, the elephant
must circle the temple three times before being able to go out into
the street to mingle with the crowd. The generous inhabitants of this
blessed land that is Kerala have each given me keys to understanding the reasons for
this nickname rich in promise: God’s Country. In Kerala, everything seems united and to form
a single whole: man and nature, nature and science, science and art,
art and the body, the body and the sacred… And seeing these improbable pink elephants leaving
in the midst of delighted families, in this colorful city, between intoxication and voluptuousness,
I confirm that I am indeed in God’s country.
On l’appelle le « Pays de Dieu ». Mais qu’est-ce qui rend le Kerala si unique, si harmonieux, si vivant ?
✋Les plus belles cultures du monde sont ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez-vous 🙏
Ce documentaire nous entraîne dans le sud luxuriant de l’Inde, au cœur du Kerala : une terre où la nature, la science millénaire de l’Ayurveda, les arts sacrés et la tolérance religieuse composent un équilibre presque idéal.
Entre les backwaters envoûtants, les jardins d’épices, les temples de Kochi, les montagnes de Munnar et les rites ancestraux du Kalari, ce voyage révèle les trésors visibles et invisibles de cette région singulière.
À travers les rencontres – médecins ayurvédiques, pêcheurs, danseurs de Katakali ou cultivateurs tribaux – se dessine un portrait riche et nuancé de cette société paisible, alphabétisée, écologique… et profondément spirituelle.
00:00 – Kerala : entre terre sacrée et modernité
03:00 – Les backwaters et la vie sur les canaux
06:00 – Ayurveda : épices, soins et philosophie de vie
11:00 – Dans les jardins médicinaux et épiceries traditionnelles
15:00 – Katakali : le théâtre sacré des gestes
19:00 – Kochi : synagogues, temples et cohabitation
25:00 – Fort Kochi : histoire juive et héritages coloniaux
30:00 – Munnar et les plantations de thé
34:00 – Wayanad : poivres anciens et cultures tribales
38:00 – L’agriculture biologique en résistance
42:00 – Calicut : marché aux épices et halwa ancestrale
45:00 – Kalari : l’art martial des sages
48:00 – Trisshur Pooram : festival sacré et éléphants
50:00 – Kerala, l’union du corps, de l’âme et du monde
#Kerala #Inde #ayurveda
Quand l’homme trace sa route – INDE, KERALA : SUR LA ROUTE DU PAYS DE DIEU
Un film de Marine Dubois
Droits réservés Ampersand
8 Comments
Kerala is full of anti God stooges ( Communists) mostly Hindus as compared with other states of India
Thanks for taking me along ❤❤
Lol😂
लेफ्कोसिया मेसोरी कियोनेली कोर्माकाइटिस एवियोना स्काईलौरा
Tremendo documental ,todo lo que tiene que ver con la india y su cultura y religión me encanta
Sarah Cohen passed away a few years ago.I do not know when you made this documentary but it needs to be updated
Then Jew town is in Mattanchery not Fort Kochi !
The Jews of Kerala eventually became the first Christians of Kerala as well.. Syrian Christians of Kerala are directly descended from the ancient Jews residing in Kerala.. the rest returned to Israel when it was formed..
kerala is a communist run state by the way