若手職人のチャレンジ…ミシュラン一つ星の名店「熟成鮨 万」の支店「熟成万〜離れ〜」に密着

若手職人のチャレンジ…ミシュラン一つ星の名店「熟成鮨 万」の支店「熟成万〜離れ〜」に密着

Sakura Stage, 1-4 Sakuragaoka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. JR Shinjuku Station, go out the new south ticket gate and turn right, within 5 minutes. Restaurant area on the 4th floor after going up the escalator. A branch of the famous one Michelin star restaurant “Aged Sushi Man” will be open from July 2024 for a limited time. 404Kitchen” is a place for young chefs to challenge themselves and pop-up events. Craftsman in charge of signage.Shuya Kishimoto. Koshihikari is made in Nagano prefecture, It is a blend of two kinds of rice, fully milled and octuple milled. The amount of vinegar and water is slightly different from the main store. I want to keep the atmosphere and color of “Aged Sushi~Man~”, so I consulted with Mr. Hakusan, the head chef of the main restaurant, The rice is made by trial and error. Mexicali. Cod, sardines, horse mackerel. You never know how many people are going to show up at any given time, style, It’s a disadvantage when you look at it as a business because the lots are set a week in advance. It doesn’t make sense to put out an early one there. The first three days are especially important, and it’s how you get the water out.
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We’re going to drain this moisture out as we go along. The left side of the screen is the 4th day of maturation, and the right side is the 2nd day, The wetting of the paper stuffed in the belly is also different. It’s how you remove this moisture. This is the most fun part to observe. In maturing, it’s important to have my own way of thinking, Curry on the second day is also maturing, let’s say, The food that cannot be eaten in one day, which was preserved in the past so that it would last for a long time, is also “aged”. In contrast, with modern aged sushi, it’s aged for its deliciousness, So it’s a different approach. Opens the body of the cohada. The process of processing is not so different from normal restaurants. The slightly unusual part is that they don’t take the dorsal fins off. The part of the fish that does not need to be removed is left in order to reduce the amount of meat exposed during aging. Kohada is dipped in vinegar. Horse mackerel on 4th day of aging. Fish is usually about 1 to 2 weeks, a little shorter for the light ones. Around 1 month for long-aged ones. It’s a little bit shorter than the “Aged Sushi” category, It is similar to the fish we usually eat, but it has a characteristic when it is aged. The rigor mortis of the protein is broken and the fish becomes soft. Some are sticky, some are fluffy, some are fluffy and some are fluffy and some are fluffy and some are fluffy and some are fluffy. The other one becomes more delicious the more you chew it, and the more flavorful it becomes. I ask customers to chew more than usual. Sardines are opened. Pinpoints use on the 3rd or 4th day so it doesn’t carry over to the next day. I basically only do the amount I can sell for one day. The speed of deterioration is much different between before unloading and after opening. If it’s eatable or inedible, it’s eatable, but it’s not what we want to express ourselves as. At night, light items are often sold out. Sardines are boned. Bones are also tasty, so we want to keep the bones we can eat. Thinking about marinating in vinegar to soften it (leaving the bones), When serving or when a customer says, “I really want to eat sardines, You might think, “Why don’t you just unload them right there? Some bones you want to marinate in vinegar and have them eat. The inside of the mouth is so delicate that even one hit to the mouth is uncomfortable. Very tasty“ becomes ”delicious. I definitely try to taste it and put it all in my mouth. I’d really like to see sushi restaurants try this, Once you leave all the bones and try to marinate them in vinegar, there’s no way they’ll all stay in your mouth. There are definitely bones that don’t remain in your mouth if you are the type of restaurant that soaks them in vinegar. If you soak them for a day, you can basically eat all of them. This is all fun to try on your own. The bones that protect the internal organs, the bones that are directly connected to the spine, are harder, so you should remove all of them there. Remove the inedible bones and marinate them in vinegar again. Vinegar with plenty of calcium from fish bones. I try to do some splicing instead of using it or something because it’s not worth it. I can’t say that there are fewer disadvantages than in a regular store. But it’s a young challenge kitchen, so we change a lot of things. I’m trying to do this when I’m cooking rice, If it’s a small bone, I want to see it with the naked eye, so I sit down and lower my eyes, With thick bones, it’s better to look at them from a little distance so you can see them better when they are uncomfortable, A good discovery is to come up with a way that works for you, like standing up when you’re in aji. Basically 2 weeks overdue, It’s going to be in the refrigerator, and it’s going to be drained of moisture, but after that, it needs some moisturizing as well. Temperature is important, but humidity is more important. I’m thinking “dry aging” and “wet aging.” If you do it wet out of the blue, you get a negative smell. The longer the maturation period, the less water that oozes out onto the paper. Adjusting the temperature of hot water for hot water frosting. Hot water frosting of small sea bream skins. Sea bream. The blade is turned outward so that the scales do not stick to the meat as it is aged with the scales attached. If it’s a yellowtail, it’s good because it has color, but a striped horse mackerel or something like that is transparent, The back side of the flatfish is good because it’s black (scales), but the white one you have to look at it properly. When you take the kama, you have to pull it, Oxidation is encouraged even after unloading. You didn’t get any water out of it after so much drying. If you put salt on it to keep it moist, osmotic pressure will cause more water to come out. When surface area is increased in this way, the ripeness (taste and aroma) is promoted at once. When I put the lid of the tupperware on everything, it’s a 100% humidity wet-aged condition, If you leave it open a little bit, air escapes. It also depends on how the lids of the first and second tiers are closed. It’s a bit of an ego thing for me to say if it changes like crazy, It’s a world of self-satisfaction, but I change it through trial and error. Pulling the skin of a Spanish mackerel. In a normal sushi restaurant, I would put the knife in the subcutaneous fat under the skin surface, The subcutaneous fat is left out because it tends to be aromatic when the fish is aged for a long time. You have to float it a little and draw the knife. Less trimming than typical aged sushi. In order to express the sense of maturity in shorter days, we want to leave some oxidized aroma on the surface. Sea bream, Spanish mackerel, and flatfish. Taste once at this stage of long-term aging, If it is good, salt it and put it in the refrigerator. If it tastes good by aging, it decomposes all at once when it is out of the upstream. It is no good if you start using it at the last minute and can’t use it up, You start using it a little earlier and finish it just in time. When it is a little under-aged, I sometimes dare to leave it at room temperature. Small sea bream. Cut some of the material before business. Suziara aged for 22 days. Here it is a bit wetty though, because I grated it as of yesterday, The yellowish area is where the fat has oxidized. This oxidized aroma is characteristic of aging. What kind of work is done is roughly dehydration and oxidation. If you don’t encourage this oxidation, it’s hard to tell the difference even in common fish. This is the low humidity zone. Fish that can be opened and closed in the refrigerator to some extent or used during business hours. Basically, the bottom door is never opened during business hours. In an airplane, the pilot does the takeoff and landing, but the autopilot is on the way. Simply put, the plane can be left on auto-pilot to some extent. But if an error occurs, you should be careful because you will crash. We, as pilots, should be the first to come and the last to serve with sushi. If we want them to absorb water, we cover them with paper. The deep-sea fish system produces a lot of water. Even in six days, they still come out, say, kinkies. Even in Thailand, if it’s a shibudai, it doesn’t come out that much. I think a lot of people think it’s probably not what they thought. It’s a process of looking at these things, so you have to be someone who enjoys this, On the other hand, if there’s quite a bit of water left at this time, do you drain it well? Do you use it a little earlier in proportion to how busy you are? Sometimes there are very watery individuals. That’s an individual difference, so it’s not good or bad, Our job is to choose the best timing for that fish. We want to keep the kama on as much as possible, but individuals with a lot of moisture will lead to spoilage. I pick them out on about the third day or take them out on the first day. Even if the store is closed, they come to replace the paper or do maintenance. You have to look at it every day to see if any errors occur. Sushi in general and this area is a little different. Drain water from soaked rice. I add a little vinegar when I cook it. The bottom line is that I want to make okoge (roasted rice) and put the aroma into the rice, I want to make the rice acidic when I cook it, so I add vinegar. The amount of water is quite small. 4 cups of rice.Because the bottom layer is made of okoge and thrown away, The finished weight is less than 900g. In contrast, the vinegar is 220g or so, 1.5 to 1.8 times that of a typical rice ball. Oven of this size because of the same rice cooking method as the main restaurant. Taking advantage of being able to change the rice cooking method each time, Mr. Yoshikawa is a young craftsman who is in charge of the separation with Mr. Kishimoto. Mexicali. I’d like to offer you a whole fish in the future, with a head, I haven’t come up with a good one, so for now I’m serving it open. 10g of fat for 100g, or simply put, 10% body fat. A recent brand of “Toro Spanish mackerel” is branded with more than 10% fat. Roughly 14-16% for Toro. When there was 50% each of water and fat in the food, the water tends to get displaced more and more to a ratio of 70% fat and 30% water. When aged, water is drained away and the flavor becomes richer with more lipid and umami. When water content is high, taste is bland. Arrange them in such a way that the ones with less water content come first, starting from the front which is easy to pick up. When the baby cries, don’t take the lid off, I think that may be true with white rice, but I don’t think there should be a boiled flower. All rice should be the same, otherwise it is not equal for all sushi. Do not make boiled flowers by stirring in the middle of the rice. The fish I ordered arrived. Shari vinegar is heated. Shari vinegar is made from 4 kinds of Fuji vinegar (3 kinds on screen + black vinegar) made by Iio Brewery. Vinegar is added so it is colored. We don’t cut the rice so much. I mix it to turn the vinegar evenly, though, There is no need to do that because it is almost double the amount. If you have to ger mix it, it will damage the rice and make it sweeter. If it’s a rice that asks you to chew it well, I want to gradually sweeten it as you chew it, There is no need to start out starchy. So this action of shari-kiri, which is nothing, is a shari that pretty much anyone can do, I want to make the gloss as visible and obvious without hurting it as much as possible. I don’t want to damage the rice, so I use a scoop with as little ground contact area as possible. What we serve is 40 minutes to an hour from here. Shari is divided into small portions into Tupperware. 11:00 Restaurant area opens.Lunch business starts. Continue stocking up until the restaurant starts to get crowded. Large amount of amadai. Ama-dai fair, because the middleman turned in cheap ones. The tuna is from Yamayamayuki and the fish supplier is Omune. They have been very good to me. When we do the first decomposing water removal process, all the blood and slime is also water, I’ll make sure to remove that moisture. We don’t want to expose the fish meat to as much water as possible, so we rinse it in water, drain it, and then take the head off. When the fish is aged, it absorbs a lot of water because it’s a drained fish. Vinegared fish is also pickled in vinegar with salt dissolved in it, without applying salt. I measure the salt concentration of the vinegar and make sure to use the same concentration every time I pickle. I try to go to the head office once a week for consultation or something. They give me a certain amount of freedom and say, “You can do whatever you want. I am very grateful to General Hakusan at the head office. Some of our customers are interested in us from away, and they go to the main store, There are also regular customers who come to the main store to be adored. The only reason I get in trouble alone is because they tell me I can do whatever I want. I am grateful to be left to my own devices, though, while still retaining the store’s color. The taste changes so much depending on the environment in which they are raised and the food they eat. It can taste crustacean-like or seaweed-like or rocky, It has a strong flavor and tastes like dried fish, even though it is raw, I believe that there is a certain amount of fat that promotes oxidation and makes it taste like dried fish. So many amadai came in here, so you can enjoy the taste of various amadai. This is made miso soup with fish bones. Stuff paper in the belly. Swordfish. He showed us a comparison between the matured one and the one that arrived today. Today is the first day, so I’m going to drain it all at once and apply a thin layer of salt after about 3 days. Hang them on the refrigerator with S-hooks. Spanish mackerel. If you just cut the mouth off and stand it up, gravity will produce a significant amount of water. It’s dry, but the inside is properly wetty and has some juiciness. It’s moisture that doesn’t putrefy. Yoshikawa-san, a customer comes to the store and asks for a story. Suziara. skipjack tuna. Searing engawa with a hot net. Shinshu salmon from Nagano, Japan. Inside is grated daikon and onion with homemade ponzu. I got this sansho from the head office, There is a person in Sakai, Osaka who grinds sansho with a millstone, and he gave me some of it. Miso soup to finish. Mexicali. A foreign tourist comes to the store and Mr.Yoshikawa responds. He also explains the features of aged sushi in English. Suziara. Bonito. Finished 5 pieces of omakase, and ordered additional salmon and Akami-Chutoro (medium fatty tuna). Lunch time is over and he starts to continue preparing. Conger eel. Usually in summer, they make two kinds of conger eel. Aged sushi features proteins that are broken down, making it softer and more flavorful. The protein of boiled conger eel is coagulated by boiling, and it is difficult to recognize the characteristic of “softening”. Generally, boiled conger eel is not matured, so it is boiled until it is just soft enough to be grasped. As conger eel in the bond of maturity, we serve conger eel close to raw only in summer. Dried open and aged for about a week. Only regular conger eel today because of the time of year. In the example of conger eel earlier, if you don’t know what to do with it for which you don’t know how it’s aged, Think about what is being asked of the last conger eel. Because some people use the figurative expression, “Please give me conger eel for dessert.” Fluffy, tender, soft, sweet, conger eel is demanded by the public. When various people come to this kind of street store, it is important to offer in the general image. That’s why we have two kinds of products. This is the amadai that came today. The internal organs here are very bad. All around the belly is trimmed, so only about three-quarters of the edible portion is edible. Last one more addition of water and it’s done. The store’s most popular liquor, “Smile 100 pills”. Sake shop here, call it Luxury Sake which is not sold to general public, There is also a sake that is not sold to the general public, which is sold in four-pack bottles for 20,000 yen only for members. Some rare sake not found elsewhere in Japan, This is sold to the public, and it’s very delicious. We have many fans in our store. They are divided by the number of years and the type of rice used, and fans sometimes specify their preferences. This is Yinyei-in/ei, which is not sold to the public. They are also balancing with us, like if you come to the brewery, we will sell it to you. Another recommendation.Another recommendation: “Wagurahaku”, a beer made in Komae City, Tokyo. Only 3 stores in Tokyo carry it, including the main store and a separate store of Aged Sushi ~Man~. Soup made from fish broth simmered for about 4 hours. When strained through a colander, the soup becomes thicker and richer, The broth from conger eel bones is also strained. Tare (sauce) for simmering conger eel is also added to give deep flavor. Anago is boiled. Some restaurants take the slime off the conger eel, but I think it’s better not to take it off. I tried baking them in the oven with only the sludge removed, It’s not a bad thing, and if you look into it, the mucous membrane is also a protein, I tried to take the sliminess out and put it in with it, and after trying a lot of things, I decided there was no need to take it out. It could be totally different, though, Mitarashi lager” made with Yamasa Shoyu Honkaishi and Mikawa Mirin is added. I put a little bit of it in as a bribe and tried it out, and it’s carbonated, so the meat is softer and fluffier, It has soy sauce and mirin in it, so it tastes good. I recommend it when you are short of conger eel or brown simmered type. 17:00 Night time business starts. Easy to come with children and enjoy authentic Edomae Sushi. Boiled conger eel is raised from the pot in between sales. This customer orders 5 pieces of omakase and a highball as he is used to. Enjoying fish trivia and chatting while making sushi. After 6:00 p.m., the area becomes crowded with new customers. The first piece is sea bream. Chew well to enjoy the taste and aroma of the fish. Additional order of swordfish. Cut into thin shavings. Swordfish. As soon as the customer leaves the restaurant, the next customer arrives. Amadai. Homemade takuan and tuna toro taku maki. Kohada. Amadai. Some of them give a well-matured taste, others taste like freshly caught. Tourists from France visit the restaurant. 5 people call in and reserve seats. 5 people come to the restaurant and the restaurant is full. Video of sushi making. Spanish mackerel. Very beautiful! This customer is actually a sushi chef in Bordeaux, France. He saw Mr. Yoshikawa’s sommelier badge and said, “We are the same. He sends a video to the chef of the restaurant and shares his excitement. He has been in Japan for 3 weeks and today is his last night. He looked up “Sushi Shibuya” and happened to find the restaurant. Today we have no choice but to eat!and ordered all items except horse mackerel and small sea bream which were out of stock. They looked so happy and enjoyed the food from start to finish. The last night in Japan was a wonderful memory. All customers are sent off. 23:00 closing. Aged sushi in this price range is rare, The advantage of operating in a commercial establishment is that it is easy to adjust to the customer’s point of view. Some people go to Manchin Honten because they are interested in aged sushi. I don’t have my own restaurant, so I was entrusted with the restaurant for a limited period of time, I was able to try many things. When I have my own store in the future, or when I am entrusted with a store, Using the reflections of what was good and bad this time, I hope we can gain strength as a store. I will return to the head office after the period, but I want to be someone who can be entrusted with such a story again. It has been a very enjoyable year because the customers have been a treasure this past year. I will continue to face the challenge of “matured sushi” with all my might for the rest of the year as a challenge for young artisans.

お店情報
熟成鮨 万〜離れ〜

営業時間
11:00 – 14:00（L.O. 料理13:30）
17:00 – 23:00（L.O. 料理22:00）
定休日　　水曜日

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