The Timeless Magic of Cornwall’s Port Isaac – Beautiful Cornish Village

The Timeless Magic of Cornwall’s Port Isaac – Beautiful Cornish Village

Port Isaac is a uniquely preserved corner of 
England. Its geography with steep hillsides and a narrow cove has historically made 
extensive modernisation challenging. Today, it offers an irresistible charm that 
is adored by visitors and filmmakers alike. A labyrinth of tiny alleyways and 
higgledy piggledy cottages that seem to tumble down to the water’s edge makes it 
a joy to explore. Join us for a delightful  morning visit and be ready to add it 
to your must-visit Cornish itinerary. With the coast just coming into view, 
we rolled into Port Isaac on a beautiful Thursday morning in mid-May. It was about a 
45-minute drive from our base for the week, Lostwithiel. Reaching this beautiful coastal 
village by car is the most convenient option. There is no railway access. The nearest national 
rail station is Bodmin Parkway, which we visited by steam train in a video a few weeks back. 
From there, it’s a lengthy two-bus journey, the number 11 from Bodmin to Wadebridge. Then the 
96 to the village, taking nearly 2 hours in total. However, if you plan to make a day of it, the 
journey could be fun. So, check out the bus website for more details if you’re interested. Well, we’ve arrived early and managed to get into the new road car park. It’s good if you can 
get in this one, cuz it’s the one that’s closest to the centre without having to go up and down 
lots of hills. There are other car parks around, and you’ll have to make your way down into the 
centre. I’m sure they get busy as the day goes on. But, uh, nice car park right here on the front. 
You can see beautiful views, plenty of spaces, but they will go soon, that’s for sure. 
Right, let’s get on and have a look around. We are starting on the headland on 
the Port Gaverne side of Port Isaac. There are excellent views of the 
coast, including towards Tintagel, which we’ll be visiting in a later video. This 
car park’s location makes it a popular starting point for walks along the southwest coast 
path in addition to exploring the village. This path will lead us around into the 
harbour and is a lovely 10-minute stroll, giving you just a taste of the wonders 
that can be seen on this famous trail. Port Isaac’s story begins long before its 
television fame, with origins rooted in Celtic culture. The Cornish spelling of its name 
translates to corn port, a clear indication of its early role in the trade of corn for the fertile 
inland districts. Throughout the Middle Ages and up to the advent of the railways, Port Isaac 
flourished as a busy port. It wasn’t just corn that passed through. The harbour handled a diverse 
range of cargoes, including coal, wood, stone, ores, limestone, salt, and pottery. The pilchard 
industry was also a cornerstone of its economy. By 1850, the village boasted 49 registered 
fishing boats and four fish cellars, which meant a place to process the fishing catch. Evidence of its maritime prowess is also found in the fact that small coastal sailing vessels were 
once constructed below Roscarrock Hill. This rich maritime heritage is the very foundation 
of Port Isaac’s character, and remarkably, it continues today. Fishermen still work from 
the Platt, landing their catches of fish, crab, and lobsters. We’ll get down there 
shortly. The path has popped us out beside the Cornish Cove tearoom on Fore Street, and 
we’ll walk downhill to the harbour front. The old schoolhouse was constructed in 1875 
and designed by a notable Cornish architect, Sylvanus Trevail. This historic building served 
as the village’s primary education institution for a century, accommodating up to 238 local 
children. Its long history as a school came to an end when it closed its doors in 1977, 
replaced by a new school on Mayfield Road. The building was then converted and reopened 
in 1984 as the old school hotel and restaurant, a purpose it continues to serve today 
while retaining that original character. From here, you get lovely views of the 
harbour and across to Roscarrock Hill. There are a few properties you probably 
already recognise from the TV show Doc Martin, but we’ll cover that when we get 
around and up to the doctor’s cottage. The popularity of the village means it can 
be bustling with tourists “out in droves”, even during off-peak times. But today, mid-May, 
midweek, and at just after 9.30, it’s a tranquil and pleasant place to be. Port Isaac wakes up 
slowly in the off-season. It can take up to 11:00 am before the shops open their doors. This 
time of year, it’s around 10 till 4 as a rule. The boathouse shop was originally built in 1869 
as the old lifeboat house. Not on the water side, the boat was guided down the street by one man, 
whilst up to 30 men with ropes took the strain from behind. Three successive lifeboats served 
the village and surrounding area between 1869 and 1927. And then the original lifeboat station 
closed in 1933. Why the lifeboat house was so far away from the water’s edge, I have no idea. Maybe 
there just wasn’t enough space around the harbour. Take a little detour up Rose Hill and then 
walk back down. It’s a very pretty little nook. You can hear the empties being 
disposed of at the Golden Lion Pub, a prominent landmark beside the harbour. 
Dating back to the 18th century, the building is full of traditional 
Cornish charm, featuring open fires and flagstone floors. The pub’s history is 
intertwined with the village’s seafaring past, with a “bloody bones” bar that is said to have 
a former smuggling tunnel leading to the beach. Another nod to its history is the gun deck, 
which displays a gun recovered from the SS Milly, a ship sunk by a German U-boat in 
1918. The pub provides a beautiful elevated view of the village and 
the bay from its outdoor terrace, making it the perfect spot to enjoy locally 
sourced food and a pint of St Austell ale. We’ve arrived at the Platt, meaning plate in 
Cornish. A flat place. This distinctive cobbled area that slopes down to the tidal harbour has 
always been the epicentre of village life and commerce. A market was held here, and it was 
the place of unloading of cargoes and catches, which it still is today for the Port Isaac 
fisherman. Until the 1920s, the cove was open with no protection. Breakwaters were added, the 
first of which was under the old schoolhouse on the eastern side. This was positioned over the top 
of an original pier from King Henry VIII’s day. Apparently, at spring tide, this is still visible. 
The second, smaller western pier was positioned incorrectly and is not far enough out to sea 
to give the greatest protection to the harbour. Also at low tide, you can see 
a series of lobster pools used for generations to store live crabs and 
sometimes lobsters in special keep pots. The Pentus, located on the harbour seawall, dates 
from the mid-9th century and was originally built as a series of fishing cellars. These stores 
were used by fishermen to store their equipment and process their catch. Today repurposed into 
the Pentus Ward Studio, an art studio used by the local artist Lindsey Bradbury. Dating back to 1542, the Mote, which has been known by various names, has constantly served as an inn. It was 
also thought to have functioned as a moot house, a place where elders and freemen would gather to 
deliberate on village affairs. With Lundy granite cornerstones that may predate this building 
to the 1600s. Market house built in the late 1700s likely hosted the weekly Friday butchers 
market before becoming a fisherman’s store. The large anchor was placed here in 1979 as a 
gift to the village by a group of scuba divers from the Loughton Divers Club. The divers 
discovered the anchor on the seabed about 50 meters offshore while exploring Lundy 
Bay. A retired sea captain from the village believed it to be from a shipwreck called 
the Frederickson. Using a 5-ton lifting bag, the divers successfully raised the 
massive anchor and towed it into the harbour, where it was moved into its 
current position for all to enjoy. The Outlaws Fish Kitchen is housed in what 
could be the oldest building in the village, a 15th-century fisherman’s harborside cottage. In 1966, a modern inflatable lifeboat was 
acquired, leading to the reopening of the lifeboat house directly opposite the slipway. 
This eliminated the need to drag the lifeboat through narrow streets, allowing for quicker 
and easier ocean access during emergencies. At the end of Fore Street, the old 
fish cellars are still used by the Port Isaac fishermen to sell their 
local catches. Make sure you pop in. The heart of the village behind the harbour 
features cobbled streets, narrow lanes, and higgledy piggledy cottages. Let’s take a walk 
up Church Hill and explore these charming areas that have been protected since the village 
was designated a conservation area in 1971, encompassing around 90 listed buildings and 
preserving its heritage in a time capsule. The very architecture of Port Isaac tells a 
story. The haphazard dwellings are not just quaint features; they are direct consequences of its 
past as a working port. Goods were conveyed along these narrow streets, which were designed for foot 
traffic and small carts, not modern vehicles. The dense clustering reflects the historical necessity 
for workers to live close to their livelihoods. The 20th century brought significant changes to 
the village. The once-abundant pilchard shoals began to decline, and following World War I, tourism 
gradually emerged as the mainstay of Port Isaac’s economy. The arrival of the North Cornwall 
Railway with a station at Port Isaac Road, about 3 miles away, played a role in this 
transition, facilitating the transport of local produce like fish, flowers, and fruit to 
wider markets. The railway closed in October 1966, but the car and its TV fame have allowed 
the village to continue to prosper. This was one of the village’s water supplies, 
still in use up to the 1950s. Some still preferred to use it even after mains water was installed 
for a time. It was sealed off in the 1970s. From Middle Street to Dolphin 
Street, ahead of us is Bark House, a former fisherman’s net loft, originally used 
for drying fishing nets, now a holiday home. We are looking for the temple bar, an 
alley or a “drang” in Cornish. It gets its name from a Mr. Temple, who once 
owned a cottage there and supposedly put a bar across the lane to stop 
people from using it. There it is. Squeeze Belly Alley It earned its 
famous nickname, Squeeze Belly Alley, in the 1950s. At its narrowest 
point, the alley measures just 18 in, about 46 cm wide. It was dubbed one of the 
narrowest thoroughfares in the United Kingdom and in the 1978 edition of the Guinness 
Book of Records, the world’s narrowest. I must say we’ve been very lucky with how quiet it is. Do not expect that in peak season 
unless you come at the crack of dawn. Our lovely walk around some of the quaint lanes 
brings us back to the sea. From Harbour Treats, we can take Roscarrock Hill, a steep lane 
on the south side, to start our climb up to the incredible viewpoints, looking 
back at this gorgeous fishing village. The hill takes its name from the prominent 
Roscarrock family, who owned the nearby Roscarrock Manor from the 11th century until 
1673. This family played a significant role in Cornish history with members serving as members of 
parliament and sheriffs during the 14 and 1500s. As you ascend, discover Port Isaac Pottery, housed in the old Sunday school and original 
Methodist Chapel built in 1836. It features exclusive handmade ceramics alongside 
a wide array of unique lifestyle gifts. Next door is the Chapel Cafe, which is well 
worth visiting even if you don’t fancy any drinks or snacks, as the decor is incredible 
and the Port Isaac heritage exhibitions keep the history alive. Methodism arrived in Port Isaac 
in the 18th century, with the founder John Wesley visiting the village multiple times. In 1835, 
a major split in the local Methodist circuit led to the creation of two separate chapels. 
The original Wesleyan Chapel on Middle Street, which we saw a glimpse of earlier, and a new 
chapel on the pottery site for the reformers, who joined the United Methodist Free Churches. 
The current extension to the chapel building was constructed in 1867 as the congregation grew. 
Both chapels thrived for over a century, but as congregations declined, the Chapel on Middle 
Street closed in the late 1970s, with Roscarrock Hill Chapel following suit, closing its doors in 
1993, after which it was sold and converted for its present use. There are lots of interesting 
snippets about the history of the village in the chapel galleries. You can also visit 
portisaacheritage.co.uk for more information. The hill itself is historically 
important, notably as the site of one of Port Isaac’s two boatyards during the 
booming boat-building industry of the 1800s. The family’s legacy includes Nicholas Roscarrock, 
a notable member who, due to his Catholic beliefs, was arrested and survived torture in the Tower 
of London, where his name is still carved on a wall. This hill is perhaps best known to modern 
audiences for being the location of Fern Cottage, which serves as the home and surgery of the main 
character, Dr. Martin Ellingham, in the popular British TV series Doc Martin. The show, which 
is set in the fictional village of Port Wenn, was filmed on location in Port Isaac and Fern 
Cottages, a well-known landmark for fans. We’ve already passed many of the properties and locations used in the series. Here is 
a very quick look at some of those, but I didn’t want to make this our main focus in 
the video, as there’s much more to the village. There is a daily tour of the Doc Martin locations 
and Port Isaac’s history. Meet by the sweet shop. Continuing up Roscarrock Hill at the top, you’re 
rewarded with wonderful views across the eastern side of the cove and harbour. You have a choice 
now to either continue on up onto the southwest coast path for more extraordinary views or head 
back into the village for shopping and some food. We’ll continue for those amazing views all the 
way to Lobber Point and even as far as Pine Haven. We’ll only be doing a half-mile walk to Pine 
Haven. This section between Port Isaac and Port Quinn is about 3 and 1/2 miles and known 
as the roller coaster due to all the steep ups and downs. Thankfully, we won’t experience 
all of them today. But here we are starting off on quite a steep climb. It’s well worth 
it, though, because the views are incredible. Ahead of us there, I don’t know if you can see it, but there is like a little island bit coming 
off the side of the coastline. There is a bridge going across the centre. That’s 
Tintagel. And we’ll be going to Tintagel Castle in another video in this series. King 
Arthur and Merlin and all those mysteries. We cannot come to Port Isaac without a mention 
of the international phenomenon that are the Fisherman’s Friends. A group of local Port 
Isaac villagers who came together in late 1990 and sang traditional sea shanties for anyone 
who would listen. A few competitions later, and a chance meeting in Port Isaac with a music 
producer, and the rest is history. Despite their global success, the members of the Fisherman’s 
Friends have remained true to their roots, and the group continues to perform, embarking on 
UK tours and playing at various festivals. While the crowds for their impromptu performances 
on the Platt grew too large to manage safely, they still occasionally perform there 
unannounced for charity. This track is not by the Fisherman’s Friends, 
but a sea shanty, nevertheless. Well, after a really lovely walk, we’ve 
made it to Pine Haven. As you can see, the path winds on towards Port Quinn with 
the steep roller coaster trail. You can walk down to a small secluded beach, and while 
the water quality is good, it’s generally considered unsuitable for swimming or surfing 
due to the strong currents and submerged rocks. It’s a place to enjoy the scenery and rock 
pools, but caution is advised with the water. We’ll make our way back to the village now. Now’s a great time to give us a thumbs 
up. And if you want to get more involved, join us on Patreon, where we have more content, 
update information on what’s coming next, what we’re working on, and extra 
little bits and pieces to keep you in with the Memoryseeker community. So, 
do check that out on our Patreon page. As we make our way back into the village, let’s 
look ahead to next time in this Cornish series. Boscastle is quite simply a feast for the eyes. 
The dramatic, rugged coastline sculpted by the relentless Atlantic hides a uniquely sheltered 
harbour with its historic quay and charming stone cottages that exude a timeless appeal. 
It’s an ideal destination for ramblers, nature enthusiasts, and tourists seeking a tranquil 
Cornish coastal experience. Despite almost being swept away in 2004, the village has thankfully 
recovered. Join us for a stroll and discover one of the most dramatic harbour entrances you’ll 
ever witness. Well, that’s it from Port Isaac, what a fantastic place its been to visit. Lovely little lanes and cute fishing cottages. Really, really lovely. And the coastal 
walk has been amazing, too. So, thanks for joining us. We’ve got more like this on the channel, so 
do subscribe if you haven’t already. Give us a like. It really does help us. And we’ll see you 
on the next video really soon. Take care. Bye-bye.

Ready to discover the magic of Port Isaac?
A beautiful Cornish village, tucked away on the stunning Cornish coast. Every narrow lane and centuries-old cottage tells a story of a community built on grit, resilience, and a deep connection to the sea. Join us as we explore the secrets and timeless beauty that make this place truly unforgettable. A real time capsule of history!
Port Isaac is a uniquely preserved corner of England. Its geography, with steep hillsides and a narrow cove, has historically made extensive modernisation challenging. Today, it offers an irresistible charm that is adored by visitors and filmmakers alike. This incredible village, known as Port Isaac or to some Port Wenn, is the heart and soul of our video, and we’ll be exploring its secrets, from its rich maritime past to its present-day allure, including Doc Martin and Fisherman’s Friends.
A labyrinth of “tiny alley-ways and higgledy-piggledy cottages” that seem to tumble down to the water’s edge makes it a joy to explore. Join us for a delightful morning visit and be ready to add this incredible Port Isaac to your must-visit Cornish itinerary.

Port Isaac’s story begins long before its television fame, with origins likely rooted in Celtic culture. Its Cornish name, “Porthysek,” translates to “corn port,” a clear indicator of its early role in the trade of corn from the fertile inland districts. Throughout the Middle Ages and up to the advent of the railways, Port Isaac flourished as a busy port, handling a diverse range of cargoes from coal and wood to stone and pottery. The pilchard fishing industry was also a cornerstone of its economy, and this rich maritime heritage continues today, with fishermen still working from The Platt.
As we walk through the village, you’ll discover more than just stunning views. You’ll stumble upon “Squeeze Belly Alley,” a mere 18 inches wide, and The Old School House, designed in 1875 by notable Cornish architect Silvanus Trevail. These small details, from the Lundy granite cornerstones of the Market House to the large anchor placed in the harbour, tell the captivating story of a community built on grit and a deep connection to the sea.
While many know Port Isaac as “Portwenn” from the popular British television series Doc Martin, this video is about celebrating the real village and its incredible history. We’ll show you the iconic spots, like Fern Cottage and other recognisable locations. Whether you’re interested in maritime history, breathtaking coastal walks on the South West Coast Path, or simply soaking in the charm of a truly unique place, Port Isaac promises an unforgettable experience.
Don’t forget to check out the https://www.transportforcornwall.co.uk website if you are interested in making a day of it by bus. You can also explore the village’s heritage at https://www.portisaacheritage.co.uk. For an authentic taste of the village, be sure to visit the fishermen’s shops to buy their local catches, or enjoy a meal at The Golden Lion pub or Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, housed in what could be the oldest building in the village.

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00:00 Port Isaac Overview
00:40 Getting to Port Isaac
02:02 Walking into Port Isaac
02:45 History of Port Isaac
04:10 Fore Street (Old School House)
05:55 Shopping in Port Isaac
06:24 Launching the lifeboat was a squeeze!
07:18 The Golden Lion Pub (Crab and Lobster)
08:28 The Platt (Harbour)
12:12 Church Hill
14:09 Middle Street
15:39 Dolphin Street (Squeeze Belly Alley)
18:03 Roscarrock Hill
20:52 Doc Martin TV Filming Locations
21:53 Port Isaac View Point
22:22 South West Coast Path Port Isaac Walk
24:17 The Fisherman’s Friends
26:02 Pine Haven South West Coast Path
27:18 Next Time…

#portisaac #cornwall #travel