GB350 Solo Ride in Shiretoko – When the Road Broke My Spirit

GB350 Solo Ride in Shiretoko – When the Road Broke My Spirit

Day 7 Before today’s ride,
let’s take a look back at last night. I stayed at a mobile tent in Kurione Campground. This was my morning view from the tent. I relaxed at Shari Onsen nearby. And ended the day with an ice-cold beer. Back on the road:
Road to the Sky first, then Shiretoko. I can’t see anything. The sun was blinding at five a.m.…
too bad my energy wasn’t. The navigation went dark…
I didn’t know it yet, but so would my luck. Even my shadow rides in style. Relax… the wheel’s not falling off. Two riders, one soul. Riding straight into the sun. Wow, look at this! Entering the Road to the Sky. Came down the Road to Heaven…
from the wrong end.
Guess I’ll have to ride it again. Wow, nice view! Wow, this is Ten ni Tsuzuku Michi — the Road to the Sky. Leaving the Road to the Sky,
heading for the sea. Some kind of moth…
and straight into my helmet. Awesome… Breathtaking… No words! With the song fading, the road now leads to Shiretoko — wild, remote, and waiting. I can’t see a thing in the sun. So beautiful! The ocean deep blue,
the sky a fading gradient rare to see. Did you catch that deer sign back there? Passing Oshinkoshin Falls —
about 30m tall, splitting into two streams,
one of Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls. Three-tiered waterfall
on the Oshokomanai River. A town?
Here on the Shiretoko Peninsula? Roadside stop —
next, the Shiretoko ride. Just a quick break Back on the road. The Shiretoko ride begins. Just passed a bear warning sign.
More like… bear neighborhood. Whoa, bears here are scary. Wow, nature really is amazing. Whoa, there’s a fox. Wow, nature really is amazing. Entering the Scenic
Shiretoko Crossing Road Wow, the nature here is incredible. Wow, this place is stunning! Wow, this is awesome. Wow, what an incredible view. End of the Scenic
Shiretoko Crossing Road. Following Google Maps
toward my next destination… And then… it happened. Uh-oh… This is bad. This is bear country. I shouldn’t be off the motorcycle right now. Wow, the brake lever is really bent. Seriously? This is the worst. Wow, what a shock. Hey! No way. Oh man… Why would Google Maps send me down such a narrow, rough road? [Bear country panic noises] This is the worst. The brake lever’s bent. Will the engine start? Let’s head down to the coast. Why did I even come here, seriously? What? I’m just turning around here? Huh?! What the hell is this U-turn?! This is ridiculous. Will the engine start? If the engine doesn’t start, it’s over. Seriously. The engine sounds so weak! The engine started! Yes! Damn it. I have no idea why I was sent there, seriously. Song : The Life They Laugh At
Composer : AI
Vocals : AI
Lyrics : Finn Hollow The dent’s not just in the tank. Out at last… coffee time. Oh no, this is bad…
I’m really bummed, seriously. I really need time to recover mentally. [sighs] I can replace the brake lever.
I can fix the dent in the tank. I know that in my head, but not in my heart. I need at least five more minutes to recover. After some rest,
the journey continued toward
the wide open Notsuke Peninsula. From Shiretoko, the road leads me southeast—toward a narrow strip of land reaching far into the sea. Shaped like a hook, Notsuke Peninsula stretches 28 kilometers into the sea—the largest sandspit in Japan. The wind feels softer here… and so does my mind. One rider waves… then another… and finally, a pair ride past with their hands raised. With each wave, my spirit lifts a little more. Back on the Shiretoko Peninsula, a fall left scratches on my brake lever and side cover—and a mark on my spirit. But out here, I can feel the slow return of strength.
Maybe life is much the same. There are times when things don’t go our way.
When stress builds, and the heart feels scarred. Yet the kindness of people, and the quiet of nature, can mend those wounds and give us the energy to face tomorrow. And perhaps… that’s how we all keep moving forward. Arrived at Notsuke Peninsula This is Notsuke-hanto and Notsuke-wan — a protected wetland recognized by the Ramsar Convention. Here, the tide retreats far into the horizon, revealing a vast landscape of drifting sands and tidal flats. And sometimes… the locals come to say hello. Heading from Notsuke Peninsula
to Nemuro Peninsula After fully enjoying my solo ride,
I savor a brief taste of group touring. Meal break at Swan 44 Nemuro At Swan 44 Nemuro,
I found a local specialty on the menu — escalope. Butter rice topped with a crispy pork cutlet,
covered in rich demi-glace sauce. First created in the 1960s for local fishermen,
it’s hearty and perfect after a long ride. That was delicious —
time to ride on to the Nemuro Peninsula. From here, the road leads east — to Cape Nosappu,
the farthest point of Nemuro Peninsula. Wow, this is Nemuro. I feel cold. It was hot in Abashiri, but it’s cold in Nemuro. I didn’t even realize…
I just rode straight past Cape Nosappu. Following the GPS, I thought I was still heading to Cape Nosappu — completely unaware I was already enjoying some of the best views on this road. Wait… I’ve seen this before. Turns out… I’d already been here.
I just didn’t know it. Alright… this time for real —
Cape Nosappu. Oops, forgot my own photo —
borrowing one from Photo-AC today. From Nemuro Peninsula to Cape Kiritappu —
today’s final stop. Leaving Nemuro Peninsula, heading for our final stop
of the day — Cape Kiritappu Campground. This song continues…
now in Japanese, with a new melody. Don’t get used to being laughed at. Always hold the fire
to say, “Screw you.” There’s a phrase I love:
“In the hidden path, blooms a mountain of flowers.”
I want my life to be like that. But that means
walking a path
others will laugh at. And when that happens,
I want to look them in the eye and say—
“Screw you.” The flowers are blooming over here. It’s a back road,
so of course it’s not flat. It’s full of struggle. But isn’t that what makes it feel
like an adventure? A life where nothing ever happens
is boring as hell. Let it hurt.
Let them laugh. Do you really envy
that guy’s life? All he does is preach,
brag,
and talk about the past. He licks his boss’s boots
and slaps his juniors around— and somehow
that kind of guy gets promoted
and starts talking big about society. I want to throw up. Let’s go. Now’s the time. There’s more than one road. You might say,
“There’s no guarantee
flowers bloom on that path.” And you’d be right. But no one—
no one on this Earth
knows which path
truly leads to the flowers. Then wouldn’t the path
with no one on it
be the one
with the biggest chance? Wouldn’t that road
be the one that makes your heart race? Some days,
nothing goes right. Some nights,
you can’t see the exit. You don’t know what to do. Even when you know
you shouldn’t give up—
it still hurts. But that pain
means you’re facing it head-on. So little by little,
correct your course. Search for your own exit. No one knows
when you’ll find it. And maybe—
that’s one of life’s
greatest joys. Life is freedom. The one who decides
isn’t them. It’s you. How to live.
Where to go. In the end,
we all arrive at the same place—
equal death. So until then—
fight, struggle, scream, and live your life
with everything you’ve got. Kiritappu Onsen Yuyu —
key in hand, hot spring done.
Ready for a night at the campsite. Today’s Expenses
Gas: ¥1,576
Lunch: ¥1,200
Bungalow Stay: ¥1,760
Towel: ¥350
Hot Spring: ¥500
Canned Coffee: ¥140
Ice Cream: ¥200
Dinner (Ten Zaru Soba): ¥1,280
Total: ¥6,906 Tomorrow’s Destination: Kushiro Wetlands
A journey into Japan’s largest marshland awaits.

From the rugged cliffs of Shiretoko to the windswept beauty of Cape Kiritappu, this GB350 ride across Hokkaido’s Wild East had it all—endless coastal roads, breathtaking scenery… and the hardest moment of the journey, when the road truly broke my spirit.

Join me as I cross the remote Notsuke Peninsula, explore the far reaches of the Nemuro coastline, and watch the landscape shift from the Sea of Okhotsk to the Pacific Ocean.
This isn’t just a ride—it’s a story of beauty, solitude, and the trial that pushed me to my lowest point as a rider.

From 25:03 to 25:07, the subtitles incorrectly display “But isn’t that what makes it feel like an adventure?” — the correct line is “A life where nothing ever happens is boring as hell.”

#GB350 #HokkaidoRide #Shiretoko #NemuroPeninsula #CapeKiritappu #NotsukePeninsula #HokkaidoMotorcycle #JapanTouring #MotorcycleAdventure #TipOver

00:00 – Start
00:05 – Recap of Last Night’s Ride and Camp
02:36 – Ride on the Road to the Sky – Scenic Hokkaido Route
06:10 – Passing Oshinkoshin Falls – One of Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls
06:48 – Three-Tiered Waterfall on the Oshokomanai River
08:20 – The Shiretoko Ride Begins – Exploring Hokkaido’s World Heritage
12:18 – And Then… It Happened – Unexpected Moment on the Ride
19:02 – Touring the Notsuke Peninsula – Hokkaido’s Mysterious Sandspit
20:47 – From Notsuke Peninsula to Nemuro Peninsula – Coastal Hokkaido Journey
22:57 – From Nemuro Peninsula to Cape Kiritappu – Today’s Final Stop
25:09 – Riding the North Pacific Seaside Line