研師Ryotaに教わる本気の研ぎ！ペットボトルを切断する日本包丁。

研師Ryotaに教わる本気の研ぎ！ペットボトルを切断する日本包丁。

please. I fixed the blade line a little bit. Checking for surface depressions Bring the knife to eye level Raise the knife from the chin to the tip of the knife
to the same level as the tip of the knife. If you raise the tip of the knife
It is the easiest way to see the line of the blade. I look to see if the line of the blade is bright and clean I check if there is an S-shape in the middle of the blade. That’s it. Yes, that’s it. If the blade line is clean
I can sharpen it as it is. Like the knife you just sharpened.
If the blade line is S-shaped, you can sharpen it as it is. We’re going to fix that first. That means you have to crush the blade directly. I just ground it down with a whetstone, but the best way to do it is to do it
the best time to do it is when you’re finishing the last step. It’s called small edge sharpening.
I have a way to sharpen a knife by setting it at about 30 degrees. This is the way to sharpen a knife. This still has a slight dent here, so we’re going to do this. Now we’re going to correct the blade line. How do we get to this point and why? Yes, sir.
Okay, let’s do that. First of all, the angle of the small blade attachment… The angle of sharpening with the blade set at about 30 degrees is called “small edging”.
Most cooks don’t sharpen with a small blade. This is where most of the sharpening is done. Sharpen it anyway with a sticky, I think, mostly.
Among cooks. If you just sharpen it solid, especially this Ginzo, the edge of the blade… The hardness is a little bit squishy. If you make it too thin
If you make it too thin, it won’t be strong enough and you won’t get a good cut. If you chip it too fine, it will tear. So we angle it at 30 degrees to stop that.
And then at the end, I’ll pull a small blade. The tip of the blade is at an angle of 30 degrees to stop it, and then you pull it back to the end of the blade, which is called a small blade. 2-dan place That’s the image you put on it. but it used to be like you’re not allowed to put a two-step place That’s the way we were taught. This sharpening method, you do it with a sticky tape. When Ryota-kun told me that 30°. small blade attachment
and I started doing it too, but I thought it was a bad idea until then. I had this image that it was wrong to wear a small blade.
That’s the image I had of it. Koba is not allowed to go up to the second level. I wish the small blade was about this streak of light.
It’s so visible that you can see it visually. If the angle becomes gradually
the edge of the blade is getting thicker and thicker. So you can’t get a very sharp edge.
It’s not very sharp, it’s not very sharp. I see… then I’ll be honest with you, I’m putting too much on. I can see it with my eyes, I can see it in the light… 46 00:46,883 –> 00:51,783
I can see it with my eyes and see it in the light. It’s not just here, is it? It’s like there’s only this part missing, and the rest of it has a small blade. Correcting the edge line while attaching the small blade So, to put it simply, I’m going to apply a small blade here.
I’m going to apply a small blade to the rest of the area. I’m going to sharpen this concave point.
Don’t sharpen it any more than that. You don’t want to hit anything other than the dented area.
so that you don’t hit it as hard as possible, and then you sharpen it. I set it up at about 30 degrees and
So you have to sharpen all the areas except for this one. If you do it from here to here once, you have to look at the blade line each time.
And each time you do that, you look at the blade line. to see if it’s healing properly. Checking to make sure I forgot to mention the grinding wheel.
When you’re doing a blade line correction, or the first shape correction… a rough grinding stone, but a regular rough grinding stone won’t cut it at all. This is a diamond grinding stone called electrodeposited diamond. This is an electrodeposited diamond grindstone, 140 roughness. 140? There are two kinds of metal diamonds.
The ones that are hardened with plastic and the ones that are There’s two kinds, the ones that are electrically attached to a steel plate. This one’s on a steel plate.
This one is a diamond abrasive attached to a steel plate, and this one is a diamond abrasive attached to a steel plate. It’s a steel plate with diamond abrasive on it.
so it’s very abrasive. It’s like it’s sharpening the knife a lot. It’s like this one is sharpening moderately. So that there are no dents in the middle of the road. It’s like a gentle curve. This is it. This is where it was going a little bit like this. I sharpen the front and back of the knife to make it complete,
So if you sharpen the back of the knife, the shape will change a little more, so you need to take that into account when sharpening. If you sharpen only the front side, the back side can be broken when you sharpen the back side.
If you sharpen only the front side, there is a possibility that it will be broken when you sharpen the back side. Sharpening is very difficult. If I can fix the shape with a small blade, I can sharpen it with a small blade.
If I can correct the shape with a small blade, I can sharpen it with a small blade. So here especially the small blade is thicker. Line thickness is thin here and thick here It’s like so-so thick here and so-so thick here. The thickness of the small blade is directly proportional to the thickness of the blade edge The thin part of the small blade is the thin edge of the blade.
The thicker the blade, the thicker the edge. So now we use this whetstone. And we’re going to cut down the bigger one.
and then I’m going to make the edge of the blade thinner and thinner. This is the kind of sharpening that cooks often do. Adjust the thickness with this,
The image of sharpening is Adjusting the thickness of the edge of the knife by solid sharpening and making a small edge.
or two steps to sharpen the blade by Itohiki. I only adjusted the thickness of the cutting edge.
it’s like you’re cutting with just a thin blade. It’s like a stopgap measure. I think a lot of people say it stops cutting immediately.
That’s because they don’t have a proper blade. It’s like it stops cutting right away. I’m going to continue. I’m going to sharpen my sticky rice next.
There is one important point in sharpening the sticky material. Single-edged kitchen knife
A Japanese knife is sharpened by sharpening this part of the blade and this part of the blade. The angle is a little bit different between this part called the tip of the blade and this part called the edge. when you hold it this way and when you hold it that way. When I hold it this way
the angle of the cutting edge becomes acute. It’s called a twist.
from the front of the blade to the tip of the blade, the angle of the blade becomes acute. It is the most important thing to sharpen with this in mind. A lot of cooks
I’ve seen a lot of cooks who try to hit it with one shot. I hit it. The shape of the knife changes It’s very common that this side is very wide and this side is very narrow.
and this one is narrower. It’s often a cut edge. It looks like it’s a one-shot hit.
I mean, it looks clean, but it’s not. The angle is the same for all the shots, so it’s not very sharp It’s said that if you make a slight pull cut on a Japanese knife, you can improve the sharpness.
It’s said that it improves the sharpness of a Japanese knife. It’s because the angle is obtuse this way and acute that way, so the blade is
so the blade gradually slips out of the knife. It’s an acute angle, and it’s a sharp angle.
so it’s better to cut through it. If you put them both at the same angle, there’s no way to get through
there is no way to get through it. The effect of the cutout is considerably halved A twist is quite important. It’s not just the pull-out, it’s the push-out as well. In the case of a push cut, it’s the opposite.
You’re going from a sharp angle to an obtuse angle, and you’re going to have to get the ingredients. So you’re adding the force to release it this way. And little by little, the knife part gets thicker and more obtuse, so it’s a little bit more obtuse. When you’re doing a push cut.
the food goes this way on its own. It’s easy to understand, like onions. It’s also caused by this twist
It’s also caused by the fact that there’s this twist, so it’s If you remove the twist
the cut will feel like it’s stuck in the ground. If you shift it a little bit, the angle changes.
The angle changes. And then you sharpen the one that keeps this angle. When you sharpen the tip, I think it’s floating here. I think this is floating because it’s at a different angle. If you didn’t try to angle it yourself with your right hand, it would be on its own.
It usually hits like that. But I think a lot of people sharpen at an angle. If it’s a willow blade, it’s not so bad.
but this one is a little bit warped, isn’t it? R is a little stronger than normal willow.
so it’s a little more warped than normal willow. Not all of what I’m doing is right. You can see that you’re not doing it right. One point of advice is to
I’m going to put it on the left hand plus the thumb. If you apply pressure, it will hit firmly.
I just put a light thumb pressure on it. here on the small blade? I will sharpen it I think I just explained the difference in thickness of the small blade. I’m adjusting the thickness by shaving here.
The small blade is going to get a little bit thinner. By decreasing The small blade part It gets thinner and thinner And the process of looking at that and bringing the thickness of the small blade down to a good thinness is what we’re doing here.
the thickness of the small blade to a good level of fineness, and that’s what we do here. The ideal thickness of a small blade is If you want to make it durable, it should be so thin that you can see streaks when you shine a light on it. If you want to make it very sharp
I sharpen it to the point where it’s almost gone. If you lose it completely, it will tear.
I sharpen it to the point where it’s almost gone or not. I don’t think the cooks can do that.
I think it’s a matter of sense. I think the first thing to do is to be aware of the fact that the width of the small blade
the width of the small blade should be even. You can adjust the width of the blade as you go along, depending on how you like it.
I think you can change the width of the blade as you go along. This is still a habit of sharpening.
I sharpen here a lot, so I had less here. The tip of the blade is the same, but this one and this one… The thickness of the small blade was reduced from 148 00:12:26,750 –> 00:12:37,516 to 148 00:12:26,750.
the shinigiri is also becoming more beautiful Here and here are proportionally straightened like this This is the longest time we sharpen.
in terms of time. The shape correction is the most time-consuming.
Once this is done, it’s time to have fun! Fun time Fun time, huh? I’m having a lot of fun shaving this shape, but I’m also having a lot of fun changing the shape. It’s fun to feel like you’re shaving off this shape. What he was saying was just perverse. I’m a little thinner than I was before when I was cutting it down, so… I think the small blade is getting closer to this one’s fineness. It was about twice as much. I guess it’s a little bit thicker. but you can’t tell. I’m going to guess where I see it now.
I’m going to guess the next one with this kind of width. Like this, and then like this. Like this, and then like this, and then like this So, if you twist it, you can’t hit it with just one shot.
So this is a beautiful way to hit it. The direction is not right sideways, it’s diagonal.
It’s like it’s going to hit like this. I just hit the bottom of this one, so you can see that the eye of the stone is right here.
I think you can see that the eye of the rough stone is right here. I’m going to move this one up to the top. I’m going to go with a certain amount. It might take quite a while Just enough to cut it without any problem. And when you’re sharpening, just look at this blade line and this shinigami line. And then I’m going to check if it’s getting a nice shape or not. So that’s what I’m talking about… the cook. He checks with his hands more than he checks with his eyes. I’m just trying to make sure that the lines here are clean in the light. For example, it’s more important to make sure that the width of this line is sharpened
it’s more important to make sure that it’s sharpened properly. And at the end, you touch it.
to check if the blade is in place. If it’s out of shape when it’s first formed, then the blade is still attached, but it’s not… If it’s bent in the wrong place, it’s not going to hold the vegetables together.
If it’s bent in the wrong place, it won’t connect the vegetables or cut them properly. For example, just here. If it’s not sharpened nicely, when you cut like this, you’ll end up with something like this here. If it’s a cucumber or something like that.
And if it’s a cucumber or something like that, the end of the cucumber will be left behind and it will stick to the cucumber. It’s important to do it visually, sharpening the shape nicely. It doesn’t matter what shape it is. I don’t care about the shape either.
I’m not so much interested in the shape as I am in whether the blade is starting to attach properly. I don’t think that’s necessary at this stage. When you look at it like this, you only look at it when you’re looking to see where there’s spills and where there’s crushed edges.
I only look at it like this to see where there are spills and where there are collapses. And then there’s this distortion over here. When a knife is distorted and bent, I look at it like this.
and then we straighten it out. If this one is crooked, for example, I’ll look at it like this and adjust it like this. That’s basically the only time I would look at it that way. I think that’s the only way to look at it.
You put it under a fluorescent light, you’re done sharpening it, you’re done with it, you’re done with it. I know there are people who do this.
I sometimes wonder what they’re doing. I don’t know if you’re a cook, but you can sharpen a lot.
I don’t think he can do it that well. But the cooks watching this video… I think it’s going to come up where they say, “This is how I was taught.
I think you’re going to see people who say they were taught this way by their seniors. You know, like, “Check it like this,” and “Sharpen it like this.
and to sharpen them like this, and so on. And there may be some things that you can learn from them. That’s how I’ve learned to do it.
I’ve already learned more than half of it by watching and imitating. I’ve learned to do it and I can cut it.
Oh, that’s the right way to do it. I’m going to make it right on my own.
And that’s what’s wrong. It’s just self-serving, it’s just self-serving. I mean, my seniors are self-styled.
It’s like you’re becoming a self-starter of a self-starter. Self-styled original self-styled I think you have to be a professional to go higher than that.
If you don’t have to be taught like this… Why don’t you watch this video and learn a little bit about No, really.
It’s just a little bit, you know, to improve the sharpness of the knife, or the trouble with the knife, or whatever. I mean, it’s hard to ask a senior about how to sharpen knives, isn’t it? I’m sorry, I’m sorry.
I’m sorry, I’m sorry, I’m sorry.It’s like, “I’m sorry. If you want to learn, you can watch these videos.
If you want to learn, you can watch these videos and learn. Not even close. If you wanted to make it sharper.
I’d make the small blade thinner. Evenly.
So you sharpen it a little bit at a time. I’m just trying to clean it up a little bit more. I’m still looking for a little bit of a dent. Oh, is this a dent? The whetstone hasn’t been hit. The first one is 140 140 is already in the process of form-fixing and so on. When the blade is chipped or something like that Usually once every two weeks or so It is better to start from this 400 number when sharpening at the pace of What about the cooks?
I wonder how much they start from. I mean, sharpening every day or something like that, just a thousand. I started with the basic number 1000. I’m a lot more efficient starting at 400.
It’s quicker. But if you use 400 every day I feel like I’m cutting too much. I think it’s my sharpening cycle and my sharpening wheel.
I think it would be better to try different whetstones and find the one that fits your sharpening cycle. Sharpened cutting edge surface from here
I use the roughness of the No.140 whetstone. So, it’s like changing the grain of the No. 400 grindstone. By the way, even at this time, the small blade is decreasing little by little, so If you erase the small blade with the roughest one you just used, it will be torn very badly, so you can’t use it.
I’m going to tear it up a lot. So you have to leave the small edge as it is.
I’m sure you’ll sharpen it more and more and it’ll wear off… When you sharpen at 400, 1000, 3000
you have to take into account that it decreases to a certain extent when you sharpen at 400, 1000, and 3000. This is just a matter of how many times you do the udon. It’s all about experience, isn’t it? Change the way you sharpen the #400.
When I was sharpening with No.140, I was sharpening it vertically in this direction. I thought I could use the same direction.
So this is the rough sharpening direction. It’s hard to tell if it’s a 400 grit over here. I think the 140 grain is in this direction… I’m going to put in the sharpening eye of No.400 in a vertical direction. Then they cross each other.
The one that’s in vertically is on the No. 400. The diagonal one is on the 140.
It’s very easy to understand. It’s easy to do without looking too hard.
It’s easier to do without looking too hard. I’m going to change the direction of sharpening.
I was facing this way earlier. Next time I’m going to sharpen it in this direction. It’s vertical. It’s pretty common with Japanese swords or something like that.
It’s like a vertical crouch. In this way, the sharpening is done vertically. Here and there, the diagonal one and the vertical one intersect.
and the vertical ones intersect. It’s easy to tell which eye is which. It’s like erasing the rough eye over here. It’s easier to sharpen cleanly
It’s easier to sharpen cleanly. It’s easier to go from obtuse to obtuse as it is if you go from obtuse to obtuse. If you go from an acute angle to an obtuse angle, it’s easy to get an obtuse angle.
It’s easy to make an obtuse angle if you’re guessing. It’s a matter of sense here. It’s easier to do it from the top. It’s easier to do it from the bottom when you take 30°. I think it depends on what you want to use it for.
I guess it depends on the person. It’s better to do it from the top. When you are sharpening a solid I use a diamond whetstone.
I use a diamond whetstone, so it’s very hard to lose the whetstone. I can sharpen for a long time and I don’t have to
I don’t have to do a lot of resurfacing in the middle of sharpening. I don’t think anyone uses a diamond whetstone.
I don’t think anyone uses a diamond whetstone, so I’m going to use a regular burnishing wheel. I think it’s better to fix the wheel once after 5 minutes of sharpening.
I think it’s better to re-hone the wheel once after 5 minutes. You have to fix the grindstone.
You have to do it. Matching masks? The one that’s dented to fix it. The facemounting is to fix the dented one. I’m trying to fix the surface of a 140 diamond grinding wheel. 10,000 grindstone If you do a No. 10,000 and a No. 140
The surface of the No. 10,000 grindstone is full of grooves on the No. 140 grindstone. The grinding power of the No.10,000 grindstone is increased.
It’s good when you want to sharpen quickly. I didn’t know it was available.
I didn’t think so. It depends on how you do it. For example, with a 1000-grit medium grit stone before using the next finishing stone, it is faster to grind a coarse groove.
It is faster to sharpen with a coarse groove. Finishing stone at the end of the process
Grinding stone for drawing small blade Rough grooves make the cutting edge rough and rough.
it is better to clean it up. You fix the surface with this once, don’t you?
If you fix it, you will get a deep groove. GC number 30,000 This is grinding wheel powder.
Abrasive. It’s a whetstone that’s baked with clay or something and hardened. It’s kind of like the source of the whetstone. And then you fit that into the clay. What number do you get when you bake it? If you burn it, it’s number 30,000. So we’ve got a glass plate, and we’re going to sprinkle some abrasive here.
We’re going to polish it with a glass plate. The abrasive rolls between the glass plate and the grinding wheel, so
And the surface can be smoothed out. When you want to sharpen really cleanly I have a GC number 10,000.
You can do it with the No. 10,000. When you fix it with a diamond grindstone
If you do it with a diamond wheel, you can’t do it with a diamond wheel. Both of them will wear out, so you can fix it, but
but this one will be out of use faster. I’ll use a glass plate to fix the diamond. It’s the cheapest one to fix the surface. It’s called C. It’s a silicon carbide abrasive.
Silicon carbide abrasive I’m going to complicate things.
There’s something called Mohs code. Diamonds are rated on a scale of 10, 10 being the hardest and 10 being the hardest.
10 being the hardest. Next to that is the Mohs code for ruby or sapphire, which is 9 That’s what they use for these grinding stones.
It’s the same code as a double A or something like that. Silicon carbide is even lower and much softer, so Diamond wheel abrasives don’t hurt They’re connecting diamond grinding wheels.
They only scrape off the resin bond. It’s very complicated.
I don’t know. The whetstone itself is a hardened abrasive clay, like a tea cup or something like that.
It’s a hardened abrasive stone that is hardened by baking. The abrasive part is hard.
The clay part, which is hardened with clay, is soft. So the abrasive stone is reduced. Vajrasand This is what hardened Vajrasand looks like This is the one that is spread on the diamonds That’s about right. Glass plate or silicon carbide-based resurfacing And where do you buy glass sheets? Not at all, I bought it from Mercari. Mercari? Sold on Amazon and other places And if you can, you can make a glass sheet called a flot glass, which is a glass sheet that floats in water.
There’s a kind of glass that floats in water. It’s pretty much flat and straight, so that’s good. It’s pretty hard to procure glass plates, so it’s not easy to handle.
And if you drop it a little bit, it will chip like this. You have to roll the abrasive between the grinding stones.
like rolling a piece of abrasive between the wheels. No force is used I feel like I don’t use as much as possible. I think there’s a brown one out there.
The brown is the resin part of the diamond. This is how I’m going to fix the surface. I’m telling you, the diamond part is not sharpened.
It’s hard. It’s like you’re only grinding the joint part of the diamond wheel.
It’s like you’re grinding away. It’s softer than a diamond wheel.
so it’s going to wear off a little bit at a time. This one is also getting bent Then we’ll have to re-surface it. You can re-face it now. No.140 grindstone With electrodeposition, there is no bond for this connection.
This one cannot be sharpened. This one is called sintering.
This one is called sintering, and it’s a resin that’s baked into a hardened resin. There’s a bond on the joint, so it’s like
so it’s like it can be scraped off. It’s a little bit tricky. It’s very complicated.
It’s complicated, but it’s definitely worth studying. I’ve also had diamond grinding stones re-surfaced. If it wasn’t a diamond wheel.
If you could do it with a regular resurfacing And the rest is as normal? From top to bottom? Change it all to the 400th eye from the top.
If you can change it to the 200th eye, then go to the next 1,000. That’s the usual process.
Everybody does it. You put it in vertically earlier. Now you put it back in diagonally. diagonal vertical again It’s like a diagonal vertical diagonal Repeat that? The water is just enough to moisten it. You have to relax your right hand as much as you can.
If you’re at an angle where you’re holding it with your left hand, you’re going to sharpen it this way. Now it’s in the normal direction, so I’m going to move it a little bit.
I’m going to move it a little bit. That’s the way it’s oriented. If your finger goes outside of the grinding stone
I’m afraid it’s going to wobble. So you want to keep your fingers inside the grinding wheel. It’s the same then. Am I missing something here? It’s easiest to see in the light. If you hold it up to the light and the vertical orientation and the
If the diagonals are still there, it’s like doing a little bit more. Around here? Also here When you’re on the 140th wheel, you’re in deep.
I think it’s easy to understand. It’s the position of the left hand.
The cutting edge is on the opposite side of this shinogi. Around the back of this shinogi I want to make the angle sharp and this one obtuse, so when I’m at the base of the blade, I want to be at the edge of the blade.
I want to make the angle acute and this one obtuse, so I’m going to put it around the edge of the blade. It’s easy to get a natural angle. The position is pushed a little upward from here
I think of it as a pressing position that is slightly shifted up from here. From the tip of the blade to the shinogi side
from the tip of the blade to the shinogi side. I haven’t reached the end yet.
I was probably finished here. The end is there, and the thumb is fine here, so
I’ll sharpen it in that state. It’s like doing all the sharpening until you get to 400. I think I’m almost there. I don’t put that much effort into it at this time. The amount of rubbing in the end doesn’t change much even if you put If you take too much out, it doesn’t make much sense.
I put it in moderately, I think. You can sharpen in the same direction, but it’s hard to make it clean.
but it’s hard to make it clean. It’s fun once you get used to it, isn’t it? I’m sure I’ll get lost at first. It’s like, “Is this right?
I wonder how I did it. I’m probably lost, but this could be interesting. You can do it one-on-one like this at first.
It’s the best way to start. Like a private lesson. Doing it one-on-one.
Is there a video where you talk about it in detail? I don’t know if I’ve ever seen a video that goes into this much depth. I’m going to do it pretty shallow. You can’t just master cooking.
I can’t cook good food. You have to master the tools, too. You’ve got to have the right tools. If you don’t give 120% of the power of a good tool
if you don’t give it 120% of your power. I think it makes a difference in cooking. I wonder if I could sharpen it with a YouTube shield so I could cut it. Maybe it’s a material that’s almost unbreakable. That’s the end of the 400 grindstone. Finishing stones are Kyoto only Only in Kyoto Kyoto only in the world Nakatoshi stone can be found in many places Some of the famous localities are
Iyo, Ehime That’s the Iyo stone of this kind of wood grain book. Which one do you use? The non-printing one. I heard that before. I mean, can’t you find out, for example, how many thousands or how many tens of thousands or whatever?
I mean, you can’t find out how many thousands or how many tens of thousands, right? You can’t do natural Sharpen. Is that the way you do it? It’s more or less like a number. Artificial grinding stones have a proper fineness. It’s like a sieve, you put it in there and if it falls off in a certain number of seconds
how many pieces fall in how many seconds. This is just to give you an idea of the number.
I think it’s about 2000 to 3000. This is a stratum.
It’s piled up in a mountain. The main abrasive is quartz,
It’s a mineral that looks like quartz. And by the way, natural abrasives are so expensive
so expensive that you can’t afford it anymore. A normal person would pay ⁉︎ for a stone. This is the low end of the scale…
It’s about 50,000, 60,000. 50,000, 60,000 stones But stones that make food taste better One little important thing,
I forgot to press the back. I don’t want to sharpen the back too much, so… In this case, I’m going to use a No.1000 whetstone because I have to shape it.
I’m going to use a No.1000 grindstone. When you usually sharpen for maintenance
only with a finishing stone. If you use No.1000, it will spread.
It is only for sharpening the basic shape or for sharpening the first one without blade. The human hand moves in a circular motion.
so it’s a little bit shaky. So it’s better to sharpen it vertically in this direction, so it’s easier to sharpen it on the back.
so it’s better to sharpen it vertically in this direction, so it’s less blurring and it’s less likely to collapse. When Mr. Yano was sharpening You’ll see where the angles are blurred. So you’re saying it’s going to be exposed.
The angles are You can’t get a return. If you don’t hit it vertically, you can’t get a return.
So, this would be around here and the first tip. Because there is no return.
so it’s where the grinding wheel doesn’t hit. That’s the return from the first correction. It’s very hard to fix this. It’s hollow in the back. I should sharpen it so that it’s hollow again. Or sharpen to the inside of this backstroke Two choices? Shaving this way is not so good because the knife becomes very thin.
It’s not so good. Steel is divided into this side and that side, and there’s a soft stainless steel on this side and a hard silicic acid on this side, so it’s very hard to sharpen. If you cut off the back, you lose three silversides. It may cause the knife to be unable to cut. There’s a possibility that it’s all gone. It’s better not to sharpen the back as much as possible Finishing only This is still a relatively wide spread Then you’re overdoing it.
I’ll tell you what. I think I’ve sharpened it too much. I might have sharpened it at about a medium level That’s a lot.
who sharpen with a medium grindstone When you sharpen the back side, it’s better to fix the surface.
It is better to do it after you fix the back side. Of course you should do that. One back-press and you go to the next grindstone. The next whetstone is a natural whetstone. What are the advantages of natural whetstone? I would say when you’re cutting, If you put the knife on the finest of the finishing whetstones
it becomes a shiny mirror surface. But if you do that, the food tends to stick to it. If you do it naturally, the scratches disappear It’s complicated again.
Metals have a hard part and a soft part in the metal. You know, the abrasives in a natural whetstone
It’s a soft abrasive. The hard part of the metal is hard to scrape off, and only the soft part can be scraped off. By doing so
you get a very fine irregularity on the surface. And it’s a little less friction, so it’s easier to cut. Because it’s gently uneven
so it’s hard to place friction. With a No.1000 grindstone
It’s jagged and uneven, and the corners are standing up, so there’s a lot of friction. It’s simply a nice looking finish. And the knife has ripples on it, and
That’s what makes it beautiful. There’s such a difference between artificial and natural. There are only a few places that sell it. When you sharpen a natural whetstone, you can get a little bit of mud.
the mud comes out a little bit by little. This mud is used for sharpening. I’m going to use the mud to sharpen.
I was told by the owner of a sushi restaurant You can’t flush that. He said you can’t keep flushing it with water and sharpening it. When it’s natural, you know. Especially in the case of natural I can sharpen it faster in the case of man-made This is also an ingredient that can be sharpened.
The tip of the blade is sharpened, but it is easy for the edge to become rounded. If you want to make it straight, you should not use mud.
If you want to make it straight, you should not use mud because it makes it rounded. It’s better not to use mud at the last stage of making small blades. If there is mud, the blade will curl up. I’m pretty sure it’s an interesting video if you’re a cook. The cook guy, seriously, absolutely.
Everyone wants to do that tube thing. That one is really easy. If you can get about 70% or 80% of the sharpness of a knife
I can do it with any knife. But there’s a way to do that, too. And people want to do it because they don’t know how to do it. people want to do it because they don’t know how to do it Sharpening process in two parts
Adjusting thickness by solid sharpening I said I’m going to put the edge of the blade on with a small blade.
I can’t do that because you all haven’t put the blade on. If you put a small blade on, you can do that.
with a finishing stone. You can do that if you put a small blade on it with a finishing whetstone.
And then the tube is spun. If you only sharpen a solid whetstone
There are some fine spills on the blade. It’s hard to get in
the blade to the paper. I think it’s about 2/3 done already. The one that improves the accuracy of this is called
the one that’s more accurate is the proper one. I think it’s a little bit lazy.
Sharpened grain and so on… The sharpened grain is not so good.
I want to change the sharpening of all of them. And if you do it with perfect shape and cleanliness
it will take about 3 times longer. You can’t sharpen it in 10, 15 minutes.
I’m sure you can maintain it. You really like to sharpen knives, don’t you? It looks like fun. Visual workmanship other than sharpness of cut You can do quite a lot of things.
It’s artistic and it’s fun. If I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t be able to do so much. This is not even a small blade. like this They say it comes out beautifully when it’s all mirrored.
Here it is This is the end of sharpening the cutting edge.
Last, the blade is set. This is the second small blade.
I’m going to sharpen it. The small blade is only applying 140 right now. Shall I use a natural whetstone? This is not a natural whetstone.
I’ll use a natural whetstone instead. I just ate some yakiniku and I’m starving. I rarely use it I’m going to put a blade on it I’m putting it on with a No. 140 whetstone, so it’s making noise. This is a No. 400 whetstone. No. 140 to No. 400 It’s a lot finer, so the sound is pretty intense. That’s the end of the small blade. If we do any more, the small blade will spread out again.
as minimally as possible, so The angle should be about 30 degrees. The angle should be 30° to a blunt angle, but no more than 40°. When you’re done with the 1000 grindstone, you’re going to use the 3000 grindstone next.
Next is the 3000 grindstone. The small blade will have a lot of return when you put it on, so make sure
So please check the whole process. It doesn’t appear when sharpening solid
I haven’t erased the small blade. The last one, it’s called Nakayama’s Asagi. It’s a very hard natural whetstone. It’s a very hard natural whetstone.
Very fine natural whetstone. In terms of number, it’s It’s like 10,000 or more. Now, I’m still only pressing at the number 1000.
I’m going to back-press one time with the number 3000. I make sure the blade is on at this time. With my finger. I mean, you could use a fingernail.
Fingers are easier to understand. There’s a burr left on the edge of the blade right now. If there are burrs left, it’s stuck. The knife sharpened by Ryota-kun
the knife sharpened by Ryota doesn’t get caught on the blade in the first place. Now the burrs on the edge of the blade
the point is that it’s a piece of iron trash. I’m going to remove it and finish sharpening. And then I put a little bit of mud on the natural whetstone. Smoothing the surface Angle is about the angle of the small blade attachment 30° to max 40 End of deburring After finishing the deburring, cut the paper once.
and check if there are any spills on the blade. Cut slowly, using the whole length of the paper.
to make sure there’s no snagging in the process. If you sharpen only with a solid grinder, it will come out… It really comes out That’s the state of affairs when you’re cutting just by thinness. It’s not stuck. Sharpening complete. Let’s cut it.
A rounded piece of copy paper. This is A4 copy paper wrapped around two times with cellophane tape on the top and bottom. Never a core of plastic wrap. If you make the circle wider, like a lap and a half.
it’s less difficult to cut. It is easy to stabilize. If you think it’s hard to cut at first
If you think it’s hard to cut at first, just widen it a little bit and it will be easier to cut. It’s more difficult when it’s on your hand because you can’t get momentum.
so it becomes more difficult. Everyone wants to do this. What’s that new way of cutting? Yes, that’s why
with Ryota-kun This was a video to learn how to sharpen knives. In the summary section, I’ve posted some of my installations and some of Ryota’s.
Ryota’s video is posted here. Please take a look.
Please take a look.

【激闘】３分制限で研ぎ対決してみた！！〜料理人vs.研師〜
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