CATANIA, Sicily Walking Tour 🇮🇹 | Bustling Markets & Baroque Beauty | 4K

CATANIA, Sicily Walking Tour 🇮🇹 | Bustling Markets & Baroque Beauty | 4K

Hi there! Welcome to Catania, Sicily’s vibrant coastal city at the foot of Mount Etna. Today, we’ll explore some of the city’s most important landmarks. Along the way, I’ll share background stories, historical context, and a few useful travel tips to help you get the most out of your visit. Let’s make this walk as interactive as possible. If you have any questions along the way, feel free to drop them in the comments. Also, I’m curious: have you visited Catania before? We’ve just begun our walk in front of Teatro Massimo Bellini. Both this theater and the square we’re standing on, are named after the famous opera composer Vincenzo Bellini. He was born right here in Catania in 1801. The first plans for this theater came after the devastating 1693 earthquake that destroyed Catania. I’ll tell you more about this disaster later on. Anyway, the construction of the public theatre sparked a lot of debate… …and it wasn’t until 1812 that the first foundation stone was laid. That’s more than 100 years later! Due to funding and other challenges, it took nearly 80 more years before the theater was finally inaugurated in 1890. We’ll now make our way to Catania’s most important square. Meanwhile, let me share a little more about this fascinating city. Catania is Sicily’s second-largest municipality, after Palermo. The city is located on the island’s east coast, at the base of Mount Etna. Just so you know, Mount Etna is still an active volcano. In fact, it’s the highest and most active volcano in all of Europe! You might have heard about the Etna on the news, since eruptions happen almost every year. Does this mean Catania is unsafe to visit? No. Not at all! The volcanic activity is closely monitored to keep residents and visitors safe… …and during a visit to Catania, you’ll see how the city lives in complete harmony with the volcano. Later on, I’ll share some of the city’s history. But first… The road up ahead is called Via Vittorio Emanuele II. It’s named after the first king of a united Italy. The road stretches from the sea, over there on the left, to the western part of the city. It’s one of the most important streets in Catania and connects several historic places and monuments. Let’s follow this road for a little while. Coming up on the left at the corner is the Chiesa di San Placido. Legend has it this church and adjacent monastery for nuns stands where Saint Agatha was born. Saint Agatha is Catania’s patron saint, but I’ll tell you more about her later. During the 1693 earthquake the entire structure was nearly leveled and most of the nuns died. It was thanks to the initiative of the three nuns who survived that the complex was rebuilt. The new church was consecrated in 1723. And this is how the late Baroque church looks today. That dome over there belongs to the Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata. This church and attached female convent date back to the 18th century. It was erected at the site of a prior church and monastery that had been razed by the 1693 earthquake. Like at the Chiesa di San Placido, many nuns lost their lives during this tragic event. The rebuilt complex is dedicated to Saint Agatha, just like several other churches around town. When we get to Catania’s duomo, which isn’t far from here, I’ll tell you all about Saint Agatha. So, stick around. I definitely recommend visiting this church. Not so much for the interior, but because you can go up to the dome. Tickets to go upstairs cost 5 euros each. And from up there, you’ll enjoy fantastic views of the city, the sea, and Mount Etna on the horizon. Unfortunately, I went upstairs later in the afternoon and found my batteries were all dead… …I wasn’t able to make it back the next day. But believe me, If you visit this place, you’re going to love the view! Alright, we’ve reached Catania’s most important square, Piazza del Duomo. The centerpiece of Piazza del Duomo is the famous Fontana dell’Elefante. Its main element is a black basalt statue of an elephant, which has become the emblem of the city of Catania Locals call the elephant statue “u Liotru.” The name is said to come from a nobleman who called himself Eliodoro (Sicilian: Liotru) and who devoted his life to the Catholic Church. At one point, he tried to become bishop of Catania, but didn’t succeed. He was so enraged by his failure to become bishop that he turned to magic. Legend says he summoned the devil, made a pact, and gained magical powers. With those powers, he sculpted an elephant from Etna’s lava and brought it to life. He flew around Catania on it, playing tricks and joking with the people. Eventually, Eliodoro was captured and burned alive for his sorcery. But the lava elephant remained, and that’s the one you see here today. Of course, it’s all myth. But historians still debate the statue’s true origin. But myth or not, thanks to u Liotru, Catania is often called the “City of the Elephant.” Dominating the square is the duomo, or Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata. Before we step inside, just look at this beautiful facade for a second. The six granite columns at the bottom are of ancient workmanship. They likely came from the Roman Theater, which we’ll pass by later today. Also take a look at the two Baroque windows on either side of the facade… …underneath the oval windows is a Latin acronym: NOPAQVIE. it stands for: “Do not offend the country of Agata, because she is the avenger of every injustice.” Let’s begin our visit to the basilica with this tomb, just to the right of the central nave. It’s the tomb of Vincenzo Bellini, the famous opera composer I mentioned at the start of our walk. The marble is inscribed with a touching line from Amina’s final aria in Bellini’s opera La Sonnambula. “Ah! non credea mirarti — Sì presto estinto, o fiore.” Which I would roughly translate as: “I never imagined I’d see you fade away so soon, oh flower.” The inscription refers to Bellini’s early death. He was only 33 years old when a sudden illness claimed his life. Right behind Bellini’s tomb, you can spot some ancient ruins, which I believe are from the Achilliane thermae that once stood here. These thermal baths were built in Roman times, probably around the third century. The volcanic eruption of 1669 and the subsequent earthquake in 1693 covered the bath complex entirely. A section was later excavated and remains visible today beneath Piazza del Duomo. If you’d like to visit, the entrance is just to the right of the Duomo’s facade. Now, returning our focus to the church itself. You might have guessed it from the name, but this church is dedicated to Saint Agatha too. And over there at the end, there’s a chapel that bears her name. But who was Agatha? Let me share her story with you. Agatha’s story begins here in Catania, where she was born in 231. From an early age, Agatha devoted herself to God and, by 15, had taken a vow of virginity. But despite her vow, many men were drawn to her beauty. Back then, Sicily was ruled by Rome, and one of Agatha’s suitors was the Roman prefect Quintianus. His powerful role made Quintianus think he could convince Agatha to abandon her vow. But the young Agatha repeatedly turned down his proposals. Now, you should know all this took place during Emperor Decius’s reign, a time when Christians faced heavy persecution. And so, unable to accept rejection and aware of her faith, Quintianus reported Agatha. Quintianus expected Agatha to give in while facing torture and death, but she held firm to her beliefs. Gruesome torture followed. She was stretched on a rack, torn with iron hooks, burned by torches, and whipped. At one point, her breasts were even cruelly removed with tongs… Because of this, she is often shown in religious art with shears, tongs, or her breasts displayed on a plate. During the imprisonment that followed after the torture, Agatha is said to have had a vision of Saint Peter the Apostle. He comforted her and healed her wounds with his prayers. However, after continued and more intense struggles with Quintianus, Agatha was ultimately sentenced to death. And now that I’m talking about death… two weeks ago the Vatican announced the sad news that Pope Francis passed away. Many churches now have small shrines featuring a photo of Francis where people can light a candle or leave a message. I attended Pope Francis’ funeral mass in Rome. It was a deeply moving moment I’ll never forget. If you’re interested, you can read more about it on my website. Back to what happened with Agatha… Her courage and suffering inspired early Christians, and devotion to her quickly spread throughout Sicily. In 252, just a year after her death, a violent eruption of Mount Etna threatened Catania. Many turned to Agatha’s tomb, seeking her protection. Some locals took her veil, which had been preserved as a relic, and processed with it toward the lava flow. And guess what. According to tradition, the lava miraculously stopped. That’s when people really started seeing her as the city’s protector, and she soon became recognized as its patron saint. Her legacy is still celebrated every year on February 5th with festivities that brings all of Catania together. So, that was a short version of her story. I’m sure we’ll bump into more reminders of her as we continue our walk. This side of the central nave also reveals some remnants from ancient times. By the way, I realize I haven’t said anything yet about the many works of art inside this church. If you’re curious to dive deeper into the art and history here, I highly recommend booking a guided tour when you visit. The tour also grands you access to the some exclusive area’s, including the Sacristy and the Chapel of the Aragonese Royals. So now we’ve seen the Fontana dell’Elefante and the Duomo… …but just ahead of us, the piazza has yet another monument with an interesting story. Over there is the Fontana dell’Amenano. This fountain was made in the late 1800s, using Carrara marble. It’s the same kind Michelangelo used for his David in Florence. At the top stands a young man holding a cornucopia, or horn of plenty. He represents the Amenano River. This river used to flow above ground, but the 1669 eruption of Mount Etna almost completely buried it under lava. These days, the river flows beneath the city, but right here it makes a brief appearance above ground. From the basin at the young man’s feet, the water falls into the one below in a circular flow. Some say it almost looks like a constantly moving drapery or blanket. Therefore, locals gave the fountain the nickname “acqua o’ linzolu,” meaning “bed sheet of water.” Right behind the Fontana dell’Amenano, you’ll find Catania’s historic fish market. It’s a great spot to soak up traditional Sicilian life. Make sure to come early in the morning because by noon the market is already finished. It’s already a bit late, so let’s take a quick look around before everyone starts wrapping up for the day. Oh, and just so you know, there’s no market on Sundays. So keep that in mind when you’re planning your visit and want to check it out. You’ll hear the sellers shouting out their fish prices in Sicilian dialect to anyone who’s nearby. At the same time, they regularly splash ice water over their catch to keep it cool and fresh. This doesn’t just mean the market’s stone floor is wet… …it’s often covered with fish scraps and puddles of water So if you don’t want the fishy smell to haunt you all day, you’ll probably want to leave your open-toed shoes back at the hotel! If you get here early in the morning, you’ll often see giant fish being brought in. Most of them are tuna and swordfish. They’re then chopped into thick slices and sold. As you can see, fish are everywhere. from trays of silver sardines resting on piles of crushed ice… …to shiny squid, prawns, and more varieties than I could ever learn the names of. The number of stalls goes on and on… Sellers are all hawking their catch of the day. And of course, no market experience is complete without seeing some lively haggling over prices. We’ve reached the last couple of fish stalls… for now. Just around the corner and down the streets ahead, we come across stalls offering fruit and vegetables, local cheeses… …mushrooms, meats, nuts, and more. They’re even offering some ‘delicious’ fresh snails. Have you ever given them a try? The streets coming up next are known as “Le Strade degli Ombrelli.” This name translates to “The Umbrella Streets.” If you take a look to your left, you’ll see why they call it that. I seem to remember that some years ago, more of these streets were decorated with umbrellas. Still, this area has a great vibe, especially around lunch and dinner. It really comes to life then. Over there, you’ll spot a few more market stalls selling everything but fish. But we’re taking a left here. See those halved fruits? Those are Sicilian blood oranges. Hmm… something must have happened here. I’ve never seen all the umbrellas this worn out before. I’m guessing they got damaged during some bad weather. Let’s hope they get fixed before the tourist season starts. Remember those blood oranges we saw a minute ago? The Piana di Catania, or Plain of Catania, is where nearly all of Italy’s blood oranges are grown. The rich volcanic soil near Mount Etna, along with the unique climate, creates ideal growing conditions. The orange most likely arrived in Sicily during the period of Arab rule. Since then, Sicilians have perfected the art of growing oranges. Our next stop is only a short walk from the other landmarks in the historic center. While we make our way there, let me give you some historical background. At just three years old, Frederick II was crowned King of Sicily on May 17th, 1198. His mother, Constance of Sicily, had him crowned shortly after her husband’s death to secure Frederick’s claim to the throne of Sicily. Constance died shortly after, in 1198, leaving Frederick under the guardianship of Pope Innocent III. Frederick was still too young to rule on his own, so in the meantime, the kingdom was run by regents chosen by the pope. Fast forward a couple of years, and we find Frederick among the most powerful rulers of the Middle Ages… …overseeing a vast and diverse realm. He wasn’t just King of Sicily, but he was also King of Germany, King of Jerusalem, King of Italy, and Holy Roman Emperor. Now, that’s quite a mouthful, isn’t it? In the early years of Frederick’s rule, Sicily was quite turbulent, as several local lords tried to assert their independence. To restore control, Frederick II ordered all non-royal castles in Sicily to be destroyed. Next, Frederick had a castle built here in Catania to reinforce royal authority. The castle is called Castello Ursino, and you’re about to see it in just a minute. And here we are, right in front of Castello Ursino. Take a look at the structure. Thick stone walls, rounded towers, and just a few narrow windows. It’s clear this castle was designed to withstand heavy attacks. At the time, it was thought to be impregnable. Perhaps that’s also how the castle got its name. The name “Ursino” likely comes from the Latin “ursus,” meaning bear. Could this name have been chosen to highlight the castle’s strength? Who knows… What if I told you that Castello Ursino originally stood on a cliff looking out to sea? It’s true. And no, the castle wasn’t picked up and moved or anything. It’s still standing exactly where it was built. So, what happened? That’s right! Mount Etna.. The 1669 eruption sent a massive lava flow down the mountain, surrounding the castle and cutting it off from the sea. Then, just a few years later in 1693, the region was hit by a devastating earthquake. It actually pushed the coastline nearly a kilometer out from where it used to be. I already mentioned this earthquake earlier, since it led to the destruction of several churches. But it didn’t just bring down a few churches. In fact, nearly the entire city was destroyed! The fortified Castello Ursino was one of the few buildings in Catania that didn’t collapse. Though the castle survived both disasters, everything around it changed completely. Nowadays, the castle is surrounded by streets, local shops, and a handful of bars. It looks nothing like it did centuries ago. You might be wondering what the castle is used for today. Back in 1932, the city bought the building and turned it into a museum, the Museo Civico. A visit to the museum lets you experience the castle’s medieval architecture from the inside. But beyond that, it also houses artifacts and artwork from the region. The collection spans from the Classical era onward, reflecting the many cultural influences that have shaped Sicilian history. Among the most valuable parts of the museum is the Biscari archaeological collection. It once belonged to Ignazio Paternò Castello, the Prince of Biscari. Ignazio Paternò Castello was a member of the House of Paternò, a major Sicilian noble family. He had a passion for classical heritage, and his position enabled him to support numerous excavations of ancient monuments in Sicily… …including parts of the thermal baths I told you about earlier, the ones located beneath Piazza del Duomo. A large part of the Biscari collection comes from these archaeological excavations carried out in and around Catania. But the collection also includes pieces acquired from antique markets in Naples, Rome, and Florence. Some of the real highlights are the beautiful Attic vases, ancient terracotta figurines, and bronze artifacts. They show incredible craftsmanship. Sadly, the museum is undergoing renovations and is temporarily closed. Maybe that’s also why this area feels a bit quieter than what I’m used to from my past visits.. Look over there in the distance. You can spot Mount Etna rising up above the buildings. Seems like a good time to share a bit more about the 1669 eruption. Some describe this eruption as a 122-day apocalypse. It began with a series of earthquakes in February, hinting that something big was coming. Then in March, the first fractures opened. A cluster of craters quickly formed along the fracture line, and before long, lava started pouring out. The river of fire split into several branches, bringing destruction to many towns in just a few days. In April, the lava reached the medieval walls of Catania and broke through in several places. From there, it flowed all the way to the sea. Walking Catania’s historic center, you can still trace the path the lava streams took. For example, some of the streets we’re crossing right now still have the slope shaped by the lava river as it flowed into the sea. The great eruption finally ended between July and August, as the lava cooled and the volcano finished releasing gas. Quite a story, isn’t it? Then, years later, there was the destructive earthquake in 1693. I’ll tell you more about that event a bit further along. We’re now heading to Catania’s Roman theater. You probably didn’t expect to find such an ancient monument right in this19th-century part of the city. Did you? Unfortunately, they’re setting up a stage today, or so I’ve heard. Since that makes it tough to see the best parts, we won’t be going inside. Still, it’s an interesting monument, so I’ll give you some background information. That way you can decide whether you want to visit another time. The Teatro Romano di Catania was built in the 2nd century AD, atop of earlier Greek foundations. It once held around 7,000 people and was used for plays, poetry, and musical performances. Inside, you may get the impression that the entire place is made of dark lava stone. The same kind used all over Catania. But originally, the theater was richly decorated with marble. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theater slowly decayed. And without upkeep, nature and time took over. But even worse, much of its marble was stripped and reused. We’ve already come across an example of this: the four lower columns of the Cattedrale di Sant’Agata. By the Middle Ages, the theater had nearly vanished from public view, as new buildings were constructed around and on top of its ruins. The theater survived, though it remained hidden for centuries. And when it comes to the theater’s rediscovery, a familiar name pops up again… …Ignazio Paternò Castello, the Prince of Biscari. Back in 1770, he had many of the medieval buildings removed and directed the archaeological excavations. This allowed the monument to be brought back to light and regain its original appearance. Or at least, to a certain extent. Because even now, some sections of the theater are still out of sight. When you decide to visit the theater, chances are the stage area is (partly) flooded with water. Now, I’m not sure if this is caused by rain or by the Amenano River… …but what I do know, is that back in Roman times, this river supplied water to the complex. Just to remind you, the Amenano is the river that now runs underground and surfaces again at the Fontana dell’Amenano. In Roman times, waters of the Amenano could be channelled to bring the theater’s water features to life… …or to move the sets’ mechanical gears. Imagine what a breathtaking sight this theater must have been for those who lived here centuries ago. We’re now right in front of the entrance. As you can tell, it’s easy to overlook. Many people walk right past it, not realizing they’re missing out on some fascinating ancient architecture and history. This small piazza marks the start of the monumental Via dei Crociferi. I’ll explain what makes this road so monumental a bit later. But first, this statue here depicts Cardinal Giuseppe Benedetto Dusmet. The inscription beneath it translates to, “As long as we have a cake, we will share it with the poor.” It reflects Dusmet’s commitment to charity and his service to the poor. Up ahead is the Arco di San Benedetto, known for the spooky legend of the headless horse. In the 18th century, nobles used this street for secret meetings with their lovers. To keep unwanted witnesses away, they spread a rumor about a headless horse ghost running at midnight. The very superstitious Catanians believed the story, letting nobles carry on their love affairs undisturbed. But one commoner wanted to prove it was just a tale, so he bravely ventured into the street near midnight. He intended to disprove the story by leaving a nail under the Arch as proof of his visit. Alone in the dark, the only sound was his hammer as he nervously nailed the spot. Suddenly, feeling his cloak pulled, he turned but saw no one… Not seeing anyone terrified him so deeply that he suffered a heart attack and died. The next morning, the boy’s body was found, his cloak caught on the nail he had planted. What do you think of that legend? Would you dare to hang out here at midnight? Right next to the arch, there’s a beautiful Monastero (and Chiesa) di San Benedetto. Let’s go inside. The tour starts here, in the parlour. This was where the nuns would meet with visiting relatives. These meetings, however, took place through metal gratings, which meant there was no possibility of physical contact. If you look around, you can still spot the original seven gratings. Attached to the monastery is the Chiesa di San Benedetto. It is considered one of Sicily’s most important Baroque-style churches. We’re now entering the church through a kind of side entrance… But visitors entering from Via Crociferi would find themselves right in front of this monumental entrance staircase. It’s called the Staircase of the Angels. The name comes from the eight statues that depict angels. Quite an entrance, right? Before mass begins, this door is open, so you can enter the church directly from Via Crociferi. Some say this is the most beautiful church in Catania… …and it’s easy to see why people say that. Take a look around. The Chiesa di San Benedetto is truly a masterpiece of Baroque frescoes and architecture. You can download a free audio tour that explains all the frescoes and artworks, letting you explore at your own pace. I definitely recommend it. Or simply take a seat, enjoy the quiet, and soak in all the amazing details around you. There’s one particular fresco I want to mention because it connects to the gruesome story of Saint Agatha I shared with you earlier. I told you that during her torture, there was a moment when her breasts were cruelly amputated with tongs. This fresco shows that very moment, capturing the brutal scene of her torture… It’s wonderful in here, isn’t it? I could easily stay longer, but let’s go back outside because there’s still plenty more to explore. Alright, we’re back on Via dei Crociferi. This street is lined with churches, monasteries, and a few civil residences… …and it serves as a prime example of Baroque architectural harmony. The street is even recognized as a UNESCO Heritage site for the richness of the Baroque architecture. Here on the left is the entrance to the Chiesa di San Benedetto, the church we just visited. It leads you strait to the Staircase of the Angels. Next to the San Benedetto church, we find the Chiesa di San Francesco Borgia. This jesuit church… …and like many Jesuit churches, the facade incorporates multiple stories, columns and sculptures to create a sense of grandeur. Attached to the church is the Collegio dei Gesuiti. This large 18th‑century palace unfortunately isn’t open to the public. But its main courtyard features a beautiful floor made of black and white pebbles laid out in an intriguing pattern. On the other side of the street is the Chiesa di San Giuliano. One interesting detail is that this church has the second highest dome in Catania… …after that of the Benedictine monastery, where we will go to next. A visit to the church gives you the opportunity to climb up to the dome. Personally, I prefer the view from the Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata, but the view from up here is amazing too! Further down the Via dei Crociferi there’s a fourth baroque church, the Chiesa di San Camillo dei Mercedari. But instead of heading that way, we turn left and continue toward another part of the historic center. The next landmark we’re going to visit has its origins in the town of Nicolosi. This small town lies on the southern flank of Mount Etna and has a long and turbulent history. Nicolosi first developed in the 12th century, around a Dominican monastery called San Nicolò l’Arena. The church was dedicated to San Nicolò, or Saint Nicholas. This explains part of the name. But where does “l’Arena” come from? When making bricks in Nicolosi, the iron-rich volcanic soil turned them a reddish color during firing. Locals referred to these bricks in Sicilian as rena rossa, meaning red sand or clay. In Italian: terra rossa. Over time, rena was distorted into “l’Arena,” which stuck as part of the monastery’s name. Over the centuries, Nicolosi was hit hard by eruptions and earthquakes. That’s why, in the 16th century, the monks decided to move to a safer place inside the city walls of Catania. They built their new abbey and church right at the end of this street. And the monks decided to keep the name of their original monastery: San Nicolò l’Arena. But Catania wasn’t free from danger either. As you know, in 1669 Etna erupted, and lava flowed into the city. As a result, the church was badly damaged. Arches bent, walls cracked, and the floor buckled. And so, the monks called in an architect to plan a new church. But before they could begin, disaster struck again. And by now, you can probably guess what happened… Correct! The 1693 earthquake. The original 16th-century church collapsed entirely. Only the bases of a few columns survived. Decades flew by before the reconstruction of a new church was finally initiated. Eventually, the decision was made to construct both a new abbey and a larger church, located just behind the remains of the old one. And with that in mind, construction finally began in 1730. But wait, the structure we see over there still looks far from a finished church… What happened? Well.. In 1797, construction stopped abruptly due to a dispute with the stone supplier. And so, even today, this grand church remains unfinished. When standing before the massive complex, the unfinished state is indeed unmistakable. The upper façade simply ends, as if frozen in time. Let’s take a look at it from the inside. As you can see, the inside is a massive open space, divided into three naves. Between the pilasters stand several heavy wooden constructions, richly carved and gilded. These are the “candelore” that play a central role during the Feast of Saint Agatha. This feast is held every year from the 3rd to the 5th of February, in honor of city’s patron saint. The celebration draws close to a million people: locals, pilgrims, and curious visitors. On the first day of the festivities, the candelore are carried in procession through the streets of Catania. Throughout the rest of the year, you can admire them up close right here inside the San Nicolò l’Arena. It’s a great opportunity to take in their craftsmanship. From up close, you can see that each candelora tells a story, illustrating key moments from Saint Agatha’s life and martyrdom. Over there in the apse, just behind the high altar, there’s an enormous organ. It was built by Donato Del Piano, one of the most important organ makers of his time. He spent twelve years crafting this impressive instrument. The organ has five keyboards and is so large that three organists could play it at once! The floor of the transept holds one of the church’s most interesting features. See this diagonal line? The zodiac signs in polychrome marble indicate that this line is a meridian. At noon, a ray of sunlight passes through a small hole (gnomon) located in the dome. The light then illuminates the zodiac sign corresponding to the current month. See that small hole up there? That’s where the sunlight enters. The Catholic Church showed great interest in meridian lines and often sponsored their construction… …as they helped calculate the date of Easter more accurately. Meridian lines can be found in other cathedrals as well, such as the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence… …and the Cattedrale di Palermo. Let’s head back outside and visit the Benedictine monastery next to this church. Here we are, at the Benedictine Monastery. Just like the adjacent church, the original monastery was built in 1558. And the same two natural disasters also left their mark on this place. While the lava from the 1669 eruption didn’t destroy the monastery itself… …it did raise the land around it by 12 meters. The impact of the 1693 earthquake was far worse and nearly destroyed everything. Only the basement floors survived. Reconstruction of the monastery began in 1702 and lasted until 1866. And the current monastery stands right on top of the original structure. In 1977, the building was donated to the University of Catania. It’s now home to their Faculty of Humanities. Honestly, I’m a bit jealous of the students who study here. The inside of this place is truly gorgeous. You can join a guided tour, which runs a few times each day. The tour takes you into the old basement areas. You’ll also see the grand marble staircase at the entrance… …which looks more like something from a palace than a monastery. The old dining hall, now the aula, is another highlight. It features a colorful tiled floor and a large ceiling fresco. Apart from the Chiesa di San Benedetto, this might be my favorite monument to visit. I definitely recommend taking the guided tour, it’s the best way to fully appreciate the history and beauty of this remarkable place. If you decide to do so, the ticket office is over there on the left Oh, and don’t forget to check the timetable for English tours in advance. You can find it on their website. From here, we’ll walk back to Via dei Crociferi. This time, we’re taking a different route so you’ll get a glimpse of Catania’s residential areas and some of its backstreets. While we walk, I’ll tell you more about the 1693 earthquake, followed by a bit about Catania’s local cuisine. First, it is important to realize that Sicily lies where the African plate slides beneath the Eurasian plate… …causing frequent earthquakes and volcanic activity. This tectonic movement also formed Mount Etna. On January 9, 1693, the disaster began with a strong foreshock that damaged buildings and spread fear across the region. Two days later, on January 11 around 9 PM, the main earthquake struck, shaking Sicily for four long minutes. The quake’s estimated magnitude was 7.4, based on the massive destruction and wide area affected. But the tremors didn’t stop there; sources mention aftershocks lasting until 1696, with some nearly as strong as the initial quake. These aftershocks mostly hit coastal towns, keeping survivors in constant fear and danger. The main earthquake triggered a powerful tsunami along the Ionian Sea coast, stretching about 230 kilometers! Witnesses saw the sea suddenly withdraw, exposing the seabed before crashing waves swept ashore. In the nearby town Augusta, the tsunami reached heights up to 8 meters, flooding the harbor and devastating the town. While in Mascali they experienced flooding nearly 1.5 kilometers inland. The quake affected a vast area of southwest Sicily, covering about 14,000 square kilometers in total. At least 70 towns and villages suffered severe damage, with some destruction reaching as far as Palermo and Malta! The human toll was staggering: Catania lost 63 percent of its population, about 12,000 people. Ragusa lost half its residents, Syracuse nearly a quarter, with other towns facing heavy losses too. Overall, about 54,000 people lost their lives. It was a tragedy that reshaped Sicily forever. After the quake, the first reconstruction focused on restoring military defenses in key coastal towns. Syracuse, Augusta, Catania, and Acireale were prioritized to protect Sicily’s strategic positions. Three types of reconstruction plans were considered for each town: Relocate the town to a new site, reconstruct it on the same site with an entirely new town plan, or rebuild following the original layout. Towns like Avola and Noto were moved, leaving behind “old towns” now called Avola Antica and Noto Antica. Syracuse restored its medieval layout, preserving much of its original city plan. Ragusa rebuilt partly on its ancient site, Ragusa Ibla, and partly on a new, modern site nearby. And Catania was rebuilt on the same site with a new town plan, mixing old and new structures. From this massive rebuilding effort came the beautiful Sicilian Baroque style… …which has become iconic for southwest Sicily. Towns like Syracuse, Ragusa, and Modica showcase the same magnificent Baroque architecture that you see here in Catania. It makes the area an architectural treasure trove, filled with palaces, churches, and public buildings. No wonder many of these towns are now part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site called the Late Baroque Towns of Val di Noto. If you see more of Sicily, you’ll notice that the architecture in other parts of the island visibly contrasts with what you see in Catania. Take Palermo, for example, where much older buildings reflect a blend of Norman, Arab, and Byzantine influences… …giving the city a completely different, and perhaps more eclectic appearance. As a former architecture student, I’m curious: If you’ve visited both Catania and Palermo, or other parts of Sicily… …which architectural style do you find most appealing? Speaking of architecture, these backstreets don’t really appeal to me. Let’s move on quickly. Alright, let’s talk about local cuisine. One thing I always look forward to when visiting Sicily is the island’s street food. Arancini are perhaps Sicily’s most iconic snack. These breaded rice balls are stuffed with fillings, then deep-fried to perfection. They come in two shapes: round and cone-shaped. Apart from the shape, they’re the same, but also completely different. Let me explain. Round arancini are typical of Palermo and western Sicily. The cone-shaped ones, said to resemble Mount Etna, belong to Catania and eastern Sicily. There’s also a long-standing debate about the correct name for them. In Catania they use “arancino” (plural: arancini), the masculine form. While in Palermo they insist on “arancina” (plural: arancine), the feminine form. Confusing, right? It may sound like a small detail, but people take it seriously! Using the right word might save you from a frown or a lecture from your Sicilian host. Another favorite is granita, a semi-frozen dessert with Arab roots. Their “sherbet,” a chilled sweet drink, was popular across the Middle East and North Africa. With the Arab invasions of the 8th and 9th centuries, it also arrived in Sicily. Made with crushed ice and natural flavors, it quickly became a local favorite. In the Sicilian version, snow from Mount Etna was originally used. ‘Nivaroli’ collected and preserved the snow in caves insulated with foliage. During summer, crushed ice combined with lemon, almond, or coffee provided refreshing relief from Sicily’s intense heat. Nowadays, many people enjoy their granita with a brioche. This may sound unusual, but it’s delicious! Also, granita and brioche are the ultimate Sicilian breakfast combo. Try it once, and you’ll understand why locals love it so much. Apart from street food, a typical dish from Catania is pasta alla Norma. This pasta features fried aubergine, tomato sauce, and ricotta salata cheese. The dish is named after the opera Norma by Vincenzo Bellini. Remember him? The famous opera composer born here in Catania. Being so close to the sea, you’ll also find many (pasta) dishes with fish. The most typical might be pasta cco niuru, a pasta in cuttlefish ink. So yes, it is pitch-black and definitely a unique local specialty. I haven’t tried it yet. If you have, was it love at first bite? Up ahead is Via Antonino di Sangiulano, one of the longest streets in Catania’s city center. The street begins at the sea and runs inland, heading toward Piazza dei Quattro Canti. Don’t confuse this square with the more famous Quattro Canti in Palermo. Here in Catania, Piazza dei Quattro Canti is where Via Sangiulano intersects with the bustling Via Etnea. Via Etnea is one of Catania’s most popular shopping streets. We’ll explore it later. From Piazza dei Quattro Canti, Via Antonino di Sangiulano begins its steep final ascent. Luckily, we’re already at the top, so it’s all downhill from here. Anyway, this steep section is called the “Salita di Sangiuliano,” or the “Sangiuliano Climb.” The Salita di Sangiuliano plays a key role in the Feast of Saint Agatha. The most spectacular moment comes when devotees ascend the climb with a heavy fercolo. Hundreds of devotees in white coats participate in this intense uphill procession. If you want, you can find some videos of this race on YouTube, just to get an impression. A couple of years ago, I stayed in an apartment at the top of Salita di Sangiuliano. I had to carry heavy luggage up, so I can kind of relate to what they must be going through. Recognize this street? We’re on Via dei Crociferi again. In a moment, we will visit Basilica della Collegiata. Its facade has two orders and is a prime example of late Baroque in Catania. Six stone columns stand on the first level, topped by a balustrade. A large central window dominates the second level, with statues on each side. The statues represent St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Agatha, and St. Apollonia. With harsh midday sunlight, it’s hard to fully appreciate the depth of the facade. It looks especially beautiful later in the afternoon. Let’s check out the interior. The vaults and dome are decorated with frescoes depicting Mary’s life, angels, and several saints. Over here is another candelora, similar to the ones we saw in Chiesa di San Nicolò l’Arena. This candelora is also used during the procession of the Festival of Sant’Agata. I forgot to say earlier: like all the churches we visited today, this one was rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake. During reconstruction, the church’s orientation was altered from its original layout… …so the church would face the new main street, Via Etnea. Before we walk down Via Etnea, let’s stop by Piazza Università first. It’s right over there. This piazza often hosts large public events, just like the one happening here today. Because of that, we can’t see everything clearly. Don’t worry, I’ll talk you through the hidden gems you’re not seeing right now. First up, the square’s surrounded by elegant buildings that now serve as offices for the University of Catania. But what I like most, are the four unique lamp-posts on this square. I’ll share more about them as we walk on. Btw, to avoid a copyright claim (some music is about to start playing), I’ve replaced the original audio for the next 2 minutes. Okay, now let’s walk down Via Etnea. But before telling you more about Catania’s main street… …I promised to talk about those four unique lamp-posts we didn’t get to at Piazza Università. Each of these lamp-posts features interesting decorations that showcase a local myth or legend. The first lamp-post tells the legend of Gammazita. She is remembered as the chaste woman who gave her life to defend her virtue. She jumped into a well to escape the advances of a French soldier. This event, leading to her death, is said to have sparked the famous uprising known as the Sicilian Vespers in 1282 The second myth is about Paladin Uzeda. The tale is made up, partially created to explain the name of Castello Ursino. Uzeda wished to marry Princess Galatea but lacked the noble blood she required. To win her heart, he decided to become a hero worthy of her status. And so, he defeated the Saracen giants who were said to live in Castello Ursino. Just a quick remark while we’re here. This is Piazza dei Quattro Canti I told you about earlier on. If you look to the left, you can see the Salita di Sangiuliano. Moving on to the third myth, that of the Fratelli Pii, two devoted brothers from Catania. They carried their elderly parents as lava flowed from Mount Etna toward their home. The lava is said to have parted for them, sparing their lives through a miracle. The last myth features Colapesce, a boy from Messina who could dive deeper than anyone else. Colapesce discovered that Sicily rests on three columns: one strong, one cracked, and one crumbling. The crumbling column lay beneath Messina, Catania, and Mount Etna. Colapesce said he could, and to confirm this, he took a wooden log down in a dive. Fearing Sicily would collapse into the sea, Colapesce made a bold promise to King Frederick. He vowed to stay underwater, supporting the island himself to keep it from sinking. And so he did. To this day, Colapesce is said to hold Sicily up beneath the sea. And when he shifts or moves, the people in Catania feel the earth tremble under their feet! That was a brief summary of the four legends. Pretty interesting, right? By now, we’ve already walked a fair bit of Via Etnea. This road was laid out after the 1693 earthquake, following a straight path. It stretches about 3 kilometers, running from Piazza del Duomo toward Mount Etna. Hence the name, Via Etnea. Via Etnea is both a shopping street and a tourist attraction, thanks to the many interesting buildings along it. While heading north, we pass elegant palaces, churches, shops, and lively cafés. In this side street, there’s always a tiny market, mostly selling handmade jewelry. You’ll see the stalls continue on the other side of Via Etnea. Over here on the left is my favorite pizzeria in Catania. It’s definitely worth going there! As you can see, are large part of via Etnea is pedestrian-only, so it’s easy to walk and look around. And now that I mention it, here comes a car driving by… …but that’s an exception. Later in the evening, Via Etnea becomes much busier… …when locals take their traditional evening stroll, or “passeggiata,” after dinner. In the evening, there are also many artists and musicians performing outdoors, creating a lively vibe. Here we have another interesting monument to discover. Catania’s ancient Roman amphitheater. First, let me clarify the difference between a Roman theater and an amphitheater. These two are often confused. A theater is a semi-circular structure with a stage at one end. They were designed primarily for plays, speeches, and performances. The word “amfi” means “around” or “on both sides.” So basically an amphitheater is a ‘double theater.’ They have a fully circular or elliptical floor plan and usually hosted gladiator fights, sports, and other large spectacles. With that in mind, let’s turn our attention to what lies here, just below our feet. Built in the 2nd century AD, this amphitheater was once one of the largest in the Roman Empire. Estimates suggest it could hold up to 15,000 spectators. For comparison, the Verona’s Arena also held around 15,000 spectators, while the Colosseum could accommodate about 50,000 people. The structure of the amphitheater was made of lava stone from Mount Etna, then covered with marble. What you see here, is a section of the underground corridors, called vomitoria. They are accessible (with a ticket). Downstairs, the site includes information panels and there are occasional guided tours in multiple languages. From this side, you can clearly see the original elliptical shape and seating tiers. It’s also clear that the amphitheater was once twice as big as what you see now. Much of it still lies buried beneath the modern streets and buildings. Do you remember what happened to Catania’s Roman theater after the fall of the Roman Empire? It fell into decay, and in the Middle Ages, stones and marble were taken to build churches and palaces. Sadly, the same thing happened to this amphitheater… However, during excavations in the 18th and 19th centuries, many artifacts still could be uncovered and documented. And guess who took part in this excavation? Yep… Ignazio Paternò Castello, the Prince of Biscari. That name has come up quite a few times already. And so you know, we’ll hear that name one more time later on our walk. That statue over there is the Monument to Vincenzo Bellini. Around the base are four statues representing four of his famous operas: Norma, I Puritani, La Sonnambula, and Il Pirata. Now we’re at Catania’s largest market. It’s the market in Piazza Carlo Alberto, though it stretches well beyond the piazza itself. Locals in Catania call the market Fera ‘ô Luni. The name may come from Fera dû luni, which means Monday Fair in Italian. The local dialect’s pronunciation is a bit different from standard Italian and Sicilian. That’s likely how the name Fera ‘ô Luni came about. Today, the fair happens every day except Sunday, offering a wide range of products. You’ll find everything from food and clothing to household goods, fruits, vegetables, and toys. You’ll notice the market is busy and quite hectic. Let’s just pay attention to everything around us. So from this point, I won’t say much until we finish our market walk. This takes about 15 minutes. This is the actual Piazza Carlo Alberto di Savoia, from which the market takes its name. So many people! We’re almost at the market’s exit. Well.. that was intense! But hopefully, it gave you a good idea of how vibrant this market is. Looks like these colorful umbrellas have seen better days. Just like those near the fish market, these were probably torn up by some harsh weather. I think they’ll be replaced by the time the tourist season starts. Alright, we’ve made it back to Via Etnea. Can’t blame you if you’re ready for a break after the market’s madness. If that’s the case, you might wanna check out that pasticceria on the corner. Their coffee’s good, and the cannoli are definitely worth a try. Another great place to unwind for a bit, is the next and final stop I’ll show you today. I’m talking about the Giardino Bellini To avoid a copyright claim (there’s music playing continuously), I’ve replaced the original audio for the next 4 to 5 minutes. The Giardino Bellini is also known as Villa Bellini. It’s also the oldest urban park of Catania. Before this public garden was built, the area was occupied by a garden maze belonging to none other than… *drum roll* Correct! Ignazio Paternò Castello. By now you know that he had a passion for classical heritage, and his position enabled him to support numerous excavations… …including parts of the Roman theater, the amphitheater, and the thermal baths beneath Piazza del Duomo. In the second half of the 1800s, long after Ignazio’s death, the municipality purchased the land where the maze once stood… …and began transforming it into a public garden featuring several interesting elements. One example is the large clock you see here, with a dial composed of evergreen seedlings. Throughout the park, you’ll also encounter numerous busts of prominent figures from Italian and Catanian history. Like the bust we see here, which resembles Angelo Majorana Calatabiano, a notable Sicilian jurist and politician. For many years, he and his family were influential figures in the political and cultural life of Catania and the Etna province. Among the other busts, you’ll also find one of Vincenzo Bellini, after whom the park is named. The Bellini bust is positioned just above the floral clock we saw a moment ago. I’ve read that, in the late 1800s, Giardino Bellini was home to swans, geese, deer, cows, an aviary, and even a monkey enclosure! Can you imagine that? But I can tell you, none of it is here today. Over here on the right, there’s another fun detail. The current date is displayed using plants. Gardeners change it daily. Now we’re at the top of the park’s hill. Here stands a wrought iron kiosk called the ‘Cloister of Music.’ Until halfway through the 1900s, classical concerts were held here regularly. Unfortunately, that’s no longer the case, though I’m not sure why. Now they just play opera music through speakers, which is why I had to replace the sound in this part of the video. Anyway, from up here, you get a good view of Mount Etna. A few years ago, I stood here in the evening while the volcano was spewing lava. It was an amazing sight! However, I found it surprising that the locals didn’t pay any attention to it at all. Like I said at the start of our tour, this truly showed me how the city lives in perfect harmony with the volcano. That’s all for today. I hope you enjoyed our walk and got a real sense of what Catania is like. If you want more info about Catania or anywhere else in Italy, just reach out or check out italynotes.com! See you in my next video!

Join me for an immersive walking tour through the vibrant streets of Catania, Sicily. In this city walk, filmed on May 3rd, 2025, we’ll explore the iconic landmarks and hidden gems that define this lively city. You’ll see the bustling Piazza del Duomo with its famous Elephant Fountain and experience the lively atmosphere of the Catania fish market, also known as La Pescheria, along with the energetic Fera ‘O Luni. We’ll also visit stunning Sicilian Baroque churches dedicated to Saint Agatha, Catania’s beloved patron saint. This virtual walk offers a full travel guide to the rich culture and history of Catania.

As your guide, I’ll share fascinating stories about Catania’s complex past, including stories of Mount Etna’s eruptions and the impact of the devastating Val di Noto earthquake. I’ll also share personal travel tips, recommendations on what and where to eat, and plenty of other interesting facts.

By the end of this walk, you’ll know exactly what to see and how to make the most of one day in Catania.

Whether you’re planning a future trip to Italy, reliving past adventures, walking on a treadmill, or exploring from the comfort of your couch, this walking tour offers a perfect way to experience Catania’s energy and hidden delights from anywhere in the world.

For more travel tips, hidden gems, and guides, visit: https://www.italynotes.com

*Video timeline links*
0:00:00 – Intro
0:01:15 – Teatro Massimo Bellini
0:03:47 – Via Vittorio Emanuele II
0:05:13 – Church of San Placido
0:07:46 – Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata
0:10:50 – Fontana dell’Elefante
0:12:21 – Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
0:23:03 – Fontana dell’Amenano
0:24:46 – Catania Fish Market
0:32:30 – Le Strade degli Ombrelli
0:41:04 – Castello Ursino
0:52:05 – Teatro Romano
0:56:39 – Via dei Crociferi (part I)
0:58:51 – Monastero di San Benedetto
1:05:25 – Via dei Crociferi (part II)
1:11:39 – Chiesa di San Nicolò l’Arena
1:21:42 – Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena
1:33:55 – Talking about street food and pasta
1:39:21 – Salita di Sangiuliano
1:47:52 – Basilica della Collegiata
1:52:20 – Piazza Università
1:53:21 – Via Etnea
2:03:27 – Anfiteatro Romano
2:10:51 – Mercato di Piazza Carlo Alberto (Fera ò Luni)
2:33:24 – Giardino Bellini

*More walking videos*
Overnight ferry: https://youtu.be/XK0O-C63clc
Palermo: https://youtu.be/yMOSyZzPE8A

*Relevant links*
More about Catania: https://www.italynotes.com/stories/catania (coming soon)
More about Sicily: https://www.italynotes.com/stories/sicily

*Support & connect*
Website: https://www.italynotes.com
Email: info@italynotes.com
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*Disclaimer*
This video, or any part of it, may not be used or reproduced without prior written permission from LetsWalkItaly or Italynotes. If you appear in the video and would like your image removed, please contact me.

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