海に浮かぶ禁断の廃墟都市、軍艦島へ。上陸して知った、涙なしでは見られない真実とは。

海に浮かぶ禁断の廃墟都市、軍艦島へ。上陸して知った、涙なしでは見られない真実とは。

Alright everyone, good morning.
I took a nap at the Sonogi Roadside Station, and now I’m heading out. I was hoping to arrive at the roadside station while it was open,
but unfortunately, I only got here when it was closed. And so, it’s 6:30 AM now, but I think I’ll get going. And now, I’m getting on the expressway from the Higashi-Sonogi Interchange. I’ve arrived in the center of Nagasaki City. And now, I’m heading to a parking lot I found earlier. It’s supposed to have plenty of space for large vehicles, but… I wonder if it’ll be okay. Ah, it looks fine. Yes. Even for large vehicles, there seems to be plenty of space. Alright, and after parking in central Nagasaki, the place I’m heading to is… that place over there. I’m sure you’ve already guessed. Today, I’m finally joining a landing tour of a place I’ve always wanted to visit:
Gunkanjima Island in Nagasaki Prefecture. Ever since seeing it in photos and videos, I’ve been captivated by its
strange and somewhat melancholic scenery. I’ve longed to see it with my own eyes and feel its atmosphere. Gunkanjima, or “Battleship Island.” Its official name is Hashima. A miracle island that once mined high-quality coal from the seabed,
powerfully supporting Japan’s modernization. And now, an uninhabited ruin where time has stood still since
all its residents left in 1974. What kind of sights, what kind of stories await me? Honestly, my heart is full of anticipation and a little bit of nervousness. This island, Hashima, is a small artificial island, 160 meters wide and 480 meters long,
that once prospered from its undersea coal mine. It was developed by Mitsubishi from the Meiji to the Showa era and supported Japan’s modernization. At its peak, over 5,000 people lived here, but it became a deserted island in 1974 and fell into ruin. Its unique landscape drew attention, and in 2015, as part of the “Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution,” it was registered as a World Cultural Heritage site. Geographically, it’s located 2.5 km southwest from the southern tip of Takashima,
another island that prospered from coal mining. It’s about 4.5 km away from the Nagasaki and Nomo Peninsulas. Between Hashima and Takashima, there’s a small uninhabited island called Nakanoshima. A mine was also built here, but it closed after just a few years,
and the residents of Hashima used the island for a park, a crematorium, and a cemetery. Additionally, southwest of Hashima is a reef called Mitsuse, and tunnels were extended from the Hashima mine to also extract coal from the seabed in that area. Hashima was originally a small island, about 320 meters north to south and 120 meters east to west, but through six phases of land reclamation between 1897 and 1931, its area was expanded to about three times its original size, becoming the shape it is today. The tour I booked this time is the landing and cruise tour by Yamasa Kaiun,
which departs from Nagasaki Port. Actually, there was a bit of drama with this booking. The Gunkanjima tours are extremely popular, and I hear they get fully booked quickly,
especially on weekends. I had pretty much given up, but I checked again the night before, just in case, and amazingly, there was an open spot, probably from a cancellation. Thinking “This is it!” I rushed to book it, but after hitting the final confirmation button, for some reason,
I didn’t get a reservation number. It was the same no matter how many times I tried, and I couldn’t tell
if it was a site bug or a connection issue. The operating company was already closed for the day, so I couldn’t check with them. In the end, I woke up not knowing if I had a reservation or not. I figured it might be a lost cause, but decided to go anyway. I went directly to the terminal counter first thing in the morning and explained the situation. I showed the staff my phone screen and told them what happened last night. As it turned out, my reservation hadn’t gone through, but they said, “There’s an open spot, so it’s alright.” They kindly processed the ticket for me. Man, I was so lucky. I’m so glad I didn’t give up and came here. About the fee, the tour costs 4,500 yen. In addition, there’s a landing fee of 310 yen that goes to Nagasaki City. One thing to note is that the 4,500 yen tour fee can be paid by credit card, but the 310 yen landing fee must be paid in cash only. So, even if you prefer paying by card, don’t forget to have a little cash on hand. After successfully checking in, I signed a pledge form. The very word “pledge form” makes you realize that the place you’re about to visit isn’t just some beautiful tourist spot. It really brings that point home. Whether or not you can land on Gunkanjima is completely up to the day’s weather,
or rather, up to luck. The conditions for wind speed and wave height are incredibly strict, and the captain makes the final go/no-go decision right before reaching the island. The landing success rate is said to be around 60% throughout the year. Today is lightly cloudy, with no wind, and the waves seem calm, but with something like this, all you can do is pray. By the way, if you can’t land, only the landing fee is refunded. There are other precautions. Due to strong winds and narrow paths,
to prevent injuries, the use of both rain umbrellas and parasols is prohibited. On rainy days, wearing a raincoat is mandatory, so you need to have one ready. Also, there are no restrooms on the island. There are restrooms on the boat,
but you can’t return to the boat during the island tour. Boarding the ship, both the deck and the cabin are packed with people.
From children to the elderly, to tourists from overseas, it’s a real mix. But I get the feeling that everyone, just like me, has come here with
a special feeling for this mysterious island. There’s a strange sense of unity. The ship’s horn sounds, and we slowly depart from Nagasaki Port. As we set off, the beautiful cityscape of Nagasaki comes into view. Nagasaki City is surrounded by mountains on three sides, and its port is known for being very safe with calm waters. During the Edo period’s isolation, it was the only port open to the world
and prospered as a hub for foreign trade. Even today, it’s bustling with historical tourism and as a gateway to various islands. Around the port, you can see the sprawling Nagasaki Shipyard of Mitsubishi Heavy Industries,
with its giant cranes and massive docks. According to our guide, one of those especially large cranes was imported
from the UK over 100 years ago and is still in active use today. It’s even a World Heritage site. That crane, a working giant, has been in operation for over 100 years. The Giant Cantilever Crane, completed in 1909, was the first electric crane
of its kind to be built in Japan. Made by the British company Appleby, it’s 62 meters high with a 75-meter arm.
This huge crane was built in the machine factory of Mitsubishi’s Nagasaki Shipyard. Its job is to lift products and equipment like turbines and ship propellers,
and load them onto vessels. It is such a historically precious asset that even Scotland, the country that exported it, praises it.
Very few still exist, and a British university professor has acclaimed this crane in Nagasaki
as having immense international value. Despite being used by the sea, surviving wartime, and enduring harsh times,
the strength of its steel remains unchanged. Thanks to meticulous maintenance, both the crane and its motor
are said to be in excellent working condition. When operating the crane, they perform numerous trial runs to ensure safety
before putting it into full operation. That’s what a spokesperson from the shipyard told our guide. And something that I personally found fascinating was… that right now, in this very shipyard, the Self-Defense Force’s newest stealth frigate,
the Mogami-class, is being built. The new Mogami-class frigate is gaining attention as the new mainstay
of the Maritime Self-Defense Force. It’s multi-functional, capable of handling diverse missions like
anti-ship, anti-submarine, and anti-mine warfare. Currently, the construction of 12 ships is planned, and many have already
been commissioned or launched. It is expected to play a crucial role as a key asset for the Maritime Self-Defense Force,
including future upgraded versions. The very place that once built the Musashi, one of the world’s largest battleships, is now at the forefront of modern Japan’s defense technology.
This town of Nagasaki’s connection from past to future… I felt the weight of this uninterrupted history as soon as we departed. The boat passes under a beautiful bridge called the Megami Ohashi and heads to open sea. From here, the swells of the East China Sea start to come in, so the ride gets a bit rockier. If you’re prone to seasickness, I’d definitely recommend taking some motion sickness medicine. I’m totally fine, though. We also passed under the Iojima Ohashi bridge, which connects the Nagasaki mainland to Iojima island. After a while, the guide announced, “On your right, you can see Takashima Island.” This island, Takashima, isn’t just any island; it was apparently
the parent-like entity for Gunkanjima. The modern mining techniques and the capital accumulated at the Takashima Coal Mine led to the later large-scale development of Gunkanjima. Its area is 1.3 square kilometers, and the current population is just under 400 people. Although it’s a small island, it holds an important history
as a coal mining island that supported Japan’s modernization. The Takashima Coal Mine, Japan’s first modern undersea mine which opened in 1869,
was reportedly opened with the support of foreigners like Glover. The mine was later transferred to Mitsubishi and pioneered the development of the neighboring Hashima. So this is where Mr. Glover comes into the picture. Thomas Blake Glover was from Scotland and was active as an arms merchant in Japan during the end of the samurai era. Even before steam railways officially began in Japan, he conducted a trial run of a steam locomotive, built a Western-style dock in Nagasaki, and laid the foundation for the city’s shipbuilding industry. He played a major role in Japan’s modernization. He remained in Japan after the Meiji Restoration, managed the Takashima Coal Mine, and through shipbuilding, coal mining, and the tea trade, he contributed to Japan’s modernization. He is also known as the father of domestic beer in Japan. And that’s the connection to Kirin Beer. Knowing this history, when you drink a Kirin Lager Beer, it has a deeper flavor, and might feel even more delicious. And then, a strange, dark shadow appeared on the distant horizon. It’s Gunkanjima. With that one sentence from the guide, the atmosphere on the boat completely changed. Even the people who had been chatting quietly fell silent,
and everyone raised their cameras at once, pointing their lenses at the shadow. As we got closer, the shadow’s silhouette became clearer and clearer. Wow, this is amazing. It’s truly amazing. The sight I’d seen in photos is right before my eyes. This mass of concrete floating on the sea like a mirage. So this is why they say it resembles the battleship “Tosa.” It really looks like a giant warship is anchored there. The boat began to slowly circle the island. And as we watched with bated breath, an announcement echoed through the cabin. The weather is on our side today. We will now be landing on Gunkanjima. In that moment, a cheer of “Wow!” and spontaneous applause erupted from the boat. I couldn’t help but look at my wife and do a fist pump. We’re so lucky. The boat carefully docked at a narrow pier called the Dolphin Pier, and finally, we landed. The moment I stepped onto the island’s soil, I felt a change in the air. The smell of salt and the cool scent of concrete. And an indescribable feeling, like the weight of condensed time
pressing down on my whole body. Here, I hand over the landing ticket I’d been clutching tightly
to a staff member from Nagasaki City. And then we follow the guide along the designated viewing route. On the island’s seawalls, you can see stone retaining walls here and there. During the Meiji era, when seawall construction for island expansion was common, this was a stone-laying method using a bonding agent called “Amakawa,”
made from lime and red clay. These stone retaining walls can still be found all over the island, creating a unique landscape for Hashima. There was a relatively large one in front of the tunnel at the island’s entrance. Due to coordination with other tours, our tour started from the second viewing platform. The first thing that caught my eye was a striking red brick building. This is the former general office. This was like the nerve center that managed the mine’s operations, handling administrative tasks like managing miners’ attendance and paying salaries. This red brick building is the oldest on the island, built in the Meiji era, and is considered a precious relic in the history of modern Japanese architecture. The story our guide told here was truly shocking. It was about the communal bath in the basement of this building. After work, the miners, still in their work clothes covered in black coal dust, would jump into the first bath. After rinsing off the worst of the grime, they would wash themselves in the second bath, and only in the third bath could they finally soak in clean, fresh water. The water in the first two baths was seawater, because fresh water was so precious. There were many facilities related to the coal mine in this area, but now most of them have collapsed. Only the staircase section leading to the pier remains, which was used to access the former main shaft, the Second Shaft. On Hashima, between 1891 and its closure in 1974, about 15.7 million tons of coal were mined. The depth of the Hashima coal mine eventually reached 1,000 meters. The coal seam here was slanted, at a 40-degree angle down to 600 meters deep, and beyond 600 meters, it was a steep incline of over 60 degrees. It was grueling work, with temperatures in the mine at 30°C and 95% humidity. This area, scattered with concrete fragments, is the site of the former swimming pool. There was a children’s pool and a full-sized 25-meter pool.
Because of the water shortage, they used to fill it with seawater. Next, we were guided to the third viewing platform at the far end. From here, you can see Japan’s very first reinforced concrete high-rise apartment building,
Building No. 30, built in 1916. This apartment building was the very beginning of the almost abnormal high-rise construction
that would follow on Gunkanjima. It may have been a desperate measure to house many people in a small area, but I feel that this building was filled with Japan’s cutting-edge technology of the time
and a sense of hope for the future, a desire to develop the nation. The neighboring Building No. 31, the miners’ housing, had a communal bath for general use, and the first floor apparently had a post office and shops. And the last place we visited was the first viewing platform. Here, a huge, crumbling 7-story building towered over us. These are the remains of the Hashima Elementary and Junior High School. The first to fourth floors were the elementary school, and the fifth to seventh floors were the junior high. As of May 1970, the elementary school had 524 students,
and the junior high had 235 students. Also, because the children lived in an environment where lights were needed even during the day,
the school windows were made extra large to let in more sunlight. The 6th floor had an auditorium, library, and music room,
while the 7th floor had special classrooms like a science lab. In 1970, a gymnasium and school lunch facilities were added,
and they even installed the island’s only elevator for the school lunches. And this pillar you see in the foreground is what’s left of the coal storage belt conveyor. Now, it has collapsed, and only this pillar remains. It’s hard to believe that nearly 1,000 children studied, played, and dreamed here. The window frames are gone, the walls are crumbling, and plants are encroaching on the building,
covering its scars. But if I close my eyes, I feel like I can almost hear the children’s cheers and the school bell
mixed in with the sound of the wind, and it just makes my heart ache. The landing time passed in a flash, and we were back on the boat.
This is where the tour’s other highlight begins. We take a full circle around the island by boat, seeing what we couldn’t see from land. We get a close look at the residential area on the north side of the island. This was absolutely breathtaking. Seen from the water, the apartment buildings are packed together without a single gap, like a giant concrete fortress. The windows are lined up like a honeycomb, and in each of those square spaces, there was once the life of a family. Laundry fluttering in the wind, the smell of dinner drifting by, the voice of a mother scolding her child. I can vividly picture such everyday scenes. To be honest, I’m a country person, and I can’t imagine ever living in a huge metropolis like Tokyo. The cramped space of people, people, people… I feel like I would suffocate. So, life on this island, which at the time had a population density
nine times that of Tokyo, is something I can’t even begin to imagine. Of course, it’s only because it’s a deserted island now that I can land here and say things like, “It was amazing back then.” I can afford to be carefree about it. I wonder how the people who lived here at the time felt. According to the guide, life on the island was more prosperous than we might imagine. Salaries were more than double those on the mainland. The ownership rate of the “Three Sacred Treasures” – TV, washing machine, and refrigerator – was nearly 100% on this island at a time when it was only about 10% for the rest of Japan. There were movie theaters, pachinko parlors, and bar districts. Everything you needed could be found right on the island. On payday, the island’s shopping arcades and bars would be packed with miners, cash in hand, and it’s recorded that it was incredibly lively. What moved me the most was the story of how, on this island with no greenery, everyone worked together to haul soil from the mainland to the apartment rooftops and created rooftop gardens to grow flowers and vegetables. No matter how harsh the environment, people seek color and comfort, find small joys, and live on with resilience. At the very top of the island, as if still watching over it, the remains of a shrine came into view. Living, learning, working, playing, praying. A person’s entire life was contained within this tiny island. In a way, it might have been a perfect city on the sea. But at the same time, you weren’t allowed to leave this island. To me, it also looked like a giant prison. However, that prosperity, as energy sources shifted from coal to oil, was swallowed up in an instant by the great wave of the times. From the decision to close the mine in 1974 until all the islanders left, they were given only three months. With little time to prepare for the move, many people left behind the TVs and furniture they had used for years and departed the island. On the day the last boat left, the islanders gathered at the port, and as their home faded into the distance, they say they kept waving and waving, with tears streaming down their faces. Imagining that scene leaves me truly at a loss for words. The boat slowly pulls away from the island. As it gets farther away, the details of each building fade, and the island once again returns to the silhouette of a giant battleship. It shows a completely different face when you approach versus when you leave. It’s a truly mysterious island. During the 40-minute ride back to Nagasaki Port, I could hardly say a word. I just kept replaying the sights I had just seen, the words of the guide, over and over in my mind. Gunkanjima wasn’t just some amazing ruin. It was a place where the people who supported Japan’s modernization at the forefront, their incredible energy, tears, and sweat, and the love of so many families, even after nearly 50 years, is certainly still alive. The concrete buildings, decaying in the wind and rain, are desperately trying to tell us something. “Don’t forget the proof of our existence.” And I would be happy if watching this video made you even a little interested in Gunkanjima. And if you ever get the chance, please go and listen to the voice of this island
with your own eyes and ears. I’m sure you will feel something overwhelming, something soul-stirring,
that can never be conveyed through photos or videos alone. Today has undoubtedly become an unforgettable day in my life. I knew exactly what I’d be drinking tonight, right?
Of course, I toasted with a Kirin Lager Beer. Thank you for watching this travel video all the way to the end. By the way, this camper van I’m currently traveling in
was actually a regular used bus two years ago. I converted it myself from scratch through DIY. On my other DIY channel, I show everything from the full paint job of the bus
to installing a bed, kitchen, floor heating, and air conditioning. I even took on my first aluminum welding challenge to build the ultimate electrical system. I’ve documented the entire process of how an amateur like me,
through trial and error, turned it into a travel-ready camper van. If you’re even a little curious about how this bus works,
please check out my DIY channel from the link in the description. I’m sure it will make traveling look even more fun. Well then, I’ll see you in the next video.
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チャンネル登録もよろしくお願いいたします

長年の夢だった、長崎県の世界遺産「軍艦島（端島）」の上陸ツアーについに参加しました。
写真や映像で見ていた、どこか物悲しくも力強いその姿。実際にこの地に足を踏み入れた時、ただの廃墟ではない、人々の暮らしのエネルギーと歴史の重みを全身で感じました。
この動画では、奇跡的に予約が取れたツアーの様子から、長崎港を出航して目にする日本の近代化を支えた造船所、軍艦島の母体となった高島、そしていよいよ軍艦島への上陸と周遊クルーズまでを記録しています。
ガイドさんから伺った、当時の豊かな暮らしや過酷な労働環境、そして突然訪れた閉山と全島民退去の悲しい物語は、胸に深く突き刺さるものがありました。
この動画を通して、軍艦島が持つ本当の魅力と、そこに確かに存在した人々の「生きた証」を感じていただけたら嬉しいです。

関連情報・リンク
僕のDIYチャンネル「GyoroChannel」
この旅で使っているキャンピングカーの全改造記録を公開しています！
https://www.youtube.com/@gyorochannel
道の駅 そのぎ海の時空間
https://sonogi.jp/
軍艦島上陸周遊ツアー（やまさ海運株式会社）
https://www.gunkan-jima.net/
長崎市公式観光サイト「あっ！とながさき」
https://www.at-nagasaki.jp/
軍艦島デジタルミュージアム
https://www.gunkanjima-museum.jp/
長崎市 高島石炭資料館
https://www.at-nagasaki.jp/spot/62885/
三菱重工長崎造船所 資料館
https://www.mhi.com/jp/company/facilities/history/
キリンの歴史（麒麟麦酒株式会社）
https://www.kirinholdings.com/jp/profile/history/
グラバー園 公式サイト
https://glover-garden.jp/

タイムライン（チャプター）
00:00 オープニング
00:13 道の駅そのぎから出発
00:48 長崎市内に到着・軍艦島ツアーへ
03:38 奇跡の予約とツアー詳細
07:03 長崎港を出航
07:46 世界遺産のクレーンと三菱重工長崎造船所
09:29 最新鋭の護衛艦「もがみ型」
11:02 軍艦島の母「高島」とグラバーの物語
12:39 ついに軍艦島が見えてきた！
13:32 奇跡の上陸決定！
15:05 【上陸】第二見学広場（総合事務所・共同浴場）
17:23 【上陸】第三見学広場（日本初の鉄筋コンクリートアパート）
18:19 【上陸】第一見学広場（端島小中学校）
20:01 軍艦島周遊クルーズ（居住エリア）
21:05 島の豊かな暮らしと悲しい別れ
23:00 帰港・軍艦島が教えてくれたこと
24:33 旅の締めはキリンラガービールで
24:51 エンディング・DIYチャンネルの紹介

#軍艦島 #世界遺産 #長崎 #旅行VLOG #廃墟 #日本の歴史 #キャンピングカー #車中泊 #長崎観光