Inde du Sud : voyage au cœur du Tamil Nadu et de ses traditions – Documentaire voyage – AMP

Inde du Sud : voyage au cœur du Tamil Nadu et de ses traditions – Documentaire voyage – AMP

The state of Tamil Nadu occupies the
southeastern part of India. This region, long coveted for its geographical location,
retains traces of its colonial past… (00 14) and of its conquerors who
sometimes came from very far away. Hindu fervor is manifested here in
spectacular religious festivals. These lands steeped in spirituality continue to attract and inspire
travelers in search of meaning. Rich in beliefs and traditions that are thousands of years old,
Tamil Nadu invites us to discover its secrets. We begin our journey along the
beaches of the Bay of Bengal, in Pondicherry. This former small fishing village
is known for having housed one of the most emblematic colonial trading posts,
founded by François Martin. The Frenchman was also the first governor of
Pondicherry until his death in 1706. Despite the prosperity of the port, the
political rivalry between France and the British led to the disappearance of
the first East India Company 40 years after its creation. For the French, Pondicherry
then represented only a modest stopover on the way to Indochina. However, the city was not
returned to India until 1956. Today, Pondicherry and its surrounding areas
have a population of over one million. It is a popular destination for
Indian tourists. They discover with curiosity the colonial remains of the
white city, the historic part. Pondicherry is home to several
distinct districts. In the Tamil part, Manakula Vinayagar temple is
the most visited. It is dedicated to Ganesh, the elephant-headed god. In front of
the entrance, an altar has been installed to pay tribute to the
city’s favorite elephant who recently passed away. Lakshmi was only 30 years old, and
many people came to pay their respects at the very spot where she
could be admired most often. The heart of the Tamil Quarter is undoubtedly
the fish market. Particularly lively, it is mainly a women’s affair
. The discussions are going well and the noise level is on par with
the negotiations on the proposed prices. The fruit and vegetable market offers everything
that makes Tamil cuisine so rich. The abundance of choice is spectacular
and the harvests abundant. The flower market occupies a significant part
of the stalls. Garlands, crowns and colorful buttons are woven there, whether for prayers
at the temple, weddings or even deaths. In Pondicherry, Tamil, Muslim, Jewish and Christian communities live side by side.
The houses sometimes mix elements of colonial architecture
with more local adaptations, such as these small terraces on the steps where people
protect themselves from both the sun and the monsoon. Over the past few years, the historic district has
been gradually restored. Since 1962, this palace, which dominates part of the
promenade, has housed the French Consulate General . The ambition of the former colonizing country
is today mainly cultural. With their orange and white color, the old colonial establishments
are easily identifiable. Regularly, natives of Pondicherry who
served in the French army meet up with colleagues from mainland France
for remembrance ceremonies. The French School of the Far East is
another example of the French cultural presence . Dedicated to the study of the Indian world,
the establishment remains a reference today. Its library contains more than
11,000 books on Indology, as well as valuable manuscripts
in Sanskrit and Tamil. The Alliance Française, for its part, has a French language school
which is always full. One of the strong symbols of the
French presence in this former trading post remains the French High School. Even today, it is frequented by both
French expatriates and Indians. Itw Principal of the French High School of Pondicherry
“It was created in 1826 by the Count of Richemont, who was 26 years old at the time and who,
very visionary, created the Royal College which has gone through history and which
has become this high school that I have the pleasure, the honor of directing, which is called the
French International High School of Pondicherry. » Many students then go to France to
continue their studies before returning to their hometown to settle there
and develop different activities. “The number of students in this establishment,
415, is a strong indicator of the usefulness of the presence of this establishment in
Pondicherry. It is proof that it is important to continue to build
bridges between France and Pondicherry. Other schools are not far behind, with the scooter remaining the preferred means of
school transport for parents. Every street in the White City
is a fragment of history. Rue de Suffren, named after a
17th century admiral, is the liveliest section of the city. The atmosphere is
particularly lively at the weekend, when bars and restaurants are full
thanks to the growing local tourism. Another visible sign of the French presence, this authentic bakery has imported
know-how acquired thousands of kilometers away. Baker Street offers
quality sourdough bread and pastries, made to the highest standards.
The bakery attracts both Indian visitors and Europeans
passing through or living there, a real success. This magnificent building was once the residence
of a French woman who bequeathed it to the Sisters of Cluny, a missionary congregation throughout
the world. This building now houses an “ouvroir”, a charity workshop
reserved for women suffering from family problems. The workshop produces
magnificent embroidery in a very studious atmosphere. Proceeds from sales are used to
fund various charities. Sister Augustine is in charge
of the workshop. She has an eye on everything. “We have existed since 1840, initiated by
French sisters, this workshop only produces handmade embroidery. They get paid
whatever they produce they get paid every month. We have 32 women working
today. Some of them come from far away but most of them live in the city, they
come in the morning, they leave in the evening. This piece took 10 days of work, each one doing it at their own pace, but during
the work time they do not speak. The more experienced ones
guide the new recruits. Sri Aurobindo was one of the great
spiritual philosophers who left his mark on Pondicherry. His
ashram has grown to such an extent that it now covers an entire neighborhood.
Recognizable by its gray and white walls, access is very restricted. After fighting
for his country’s independence, Sri Aurobindo spent most of his life creating and
promoting a new yoga practice, called “integral yoga.” His ashram
still has over 2,000 students and devotees. An emblematic building of the White City, Notre
Dame des Anges was built by Capuchin monks who accompanied several
trade missions at the end of the 17th century. It was completely renovated in 2009 by the
Friends of Pondicherry Heritage association and thanks to the support of the French Ministry of Culture.
This is also the case of the Capuchin cemetery, dating from 1726, which houses the tombs of
some of the great notables of the time. As for the bowling green next to Notre Dame,
it is located within the grounds of the religious center. Every night people come to play, betting
a few rupees on their chances of success. Several players still speak French, including
Vijay, who worked in France for a long time. We have 2 or 3 games at 7:30 p.m.
every day, yes every evening. This evening, at the Cathedral
of the Immaculate Conception, a procession dedicated to the
Virgin Mary will be organized. The statue was placed on a
flowered wooden base. The Catholic rite has been adapted to Tamil customs and language. The faithful will walk around
the square several times, singing hymns. About twenty minutes from Pondicherry,
what was once an arid plain of red earth has become a forest of nearly 6
million trees planted since the 1960s. Auroville is a city born of a utopia that
wanted to banish politics, money and religion… Half a century after its foundation, the city of Dawn has not
realized its dream of “human unity”. 17 But it constantly attracts new
idealists. It was the Frenchwoman Mirra Alfassa, better known as The Mother, who founded
the city in 1968. A philosophical partner of Sri Aurobindo, she had already been managing her Ahsram
since the Master’s death in 1950. The Pavilion of Unity
houses the various community assemblies that manage the city. “This is where the community comes together in large
numbers for the big and the big decisions, the big debates, the big decisions.
In the hall next door. Here we are in the hall of peace where
once a week, a meditation for peace In the heart of the city, is the famous
golden sphere, the Matrimandir, “house of the Mother” in Sanskrit, a building 36 meters in
diameter, as high as a nine-story building. Completed in 2008 after thirty-seven years of work,
it is surrounded by 12 pink brick petals. “The matrimandir is the meditation place of the
inhabitants of Auroville. It is the center of the city, the founding axis of Auroville.
Can we transform consciousness through meditation? I think
that many people on the planet have understood that it is necessary to have a change
of consciousness for the good of humanity Agriculture occupies an important place in
the activities of the Aurovillians. If the idea of self-sufficiency has not necessarily been achieved,
several artisans like Pierre, a French, have managed to work the land and remove all
the stones it contained to make it fertile. He has been living in the city for over 15 years
and he is achieving interesting results. The city was designed to accommodate
50,000 people. Today there are 3,000: 40% Indian, 20% French
and still as many people who arrive each year to live a
unique experience. Jean has been there since the beginning What I expected to find, I did
n’t know. I didn’t know what I was looking for. I was in question in aspiration,
that’s all. But it’s very positive, it’s very interesting, it’s lively and
not at all what I expected. The city is currently experiencing a
significant renewal. New neighborhoods are appearing, far from the first basic houses of the
beginning. Beautiful apartments designed in the spirit of the architect Roger Anger, who
originally planned the city, bring an avant-garde touch
to this remote corner of Tamil Nadu. In addition. But know one thing, if I took
slaps like everyone else in their life, it was always something very
interesting, which goes forward…we have…I discovered that aspiring to
beauty, breathing perfection, aspiring to human usefulness. these are
essential elements of life not the rest This idea of ​​living in a more
fraternal world is more relevant than ever. Auroville still has very
good days ahead of it. One of the particularities of Tamil Nadu is
to have a multitude of temples, even entire city centers
dedicated to spirituality. At the foot of the sacred Arunachala hill,
Tiruvannamalai is one of the five cities of Shiva and one of the
most venerated sites in South India. The Arunachaleshwar temple is preparing for
the most important day of the year: Karthigai Deepam, dedicated to Shiva and Muruga, his youngest son. The
deity is honored here in his incarnation of fire. The day before, several purification rituals take
place, performed by Shivaite priests. Pandiam comes from Thanjur, he is a farmer.
It is an appointment he never misses. “The gods also manifest themselves through
flames, that is what we are going to celebrate here, and that is also why
so many people have come here.” The rituals will continue late
into the night all around the temple. The next morning, the faithful are
hard at work performing the Girivalam, a purification ritual which consists of walking
around the Arunachala hill, barefoot. Along the way, the faithful stop
to receive various blessings. This pilgrimage, which is supposed to bring
peace of mind and good health, is generally done on a day
or night of a full moon. The priest Shiva Ramish, accompanied by a devotee, blows the conch to produce
the original sound of creation: “Om”. “Shiva loves 44 different things, when he
is angry he likes to hear music to express himself, so we play
Sanga Nada which means the music of the conch, so that he accepts it as one of our
offerings, it is one of Shiva’s favorites” Women stop at an altar
dedicated to Mariamman, a goddess who protects children from illnesses
and who also gives rain… The Arunachaleswara temple is one of the
largest in the country. The 4 entrances are marked by 4 immense white Gopura. The
largest of these towers is 66m high. At its feet, a sadhu completes a
procession. He wears around his neck several garlands of
rudraksha seeds, an Asian tree. According to religious texts, these seeds
were formed from the tears of Shiva. Inside the temple, one first bows before a Nandi,
the bull, Shiva’s famous mount. The bas-reliefs that adorn the feet
of the Gopura are finely sculpted. They represent dancers,
dwarves and elephants. The hall of 1,000 columns is
one of the most famous spaces in the temple. Each pillar tells a
story linked to Hindu mythology. Processions in the temple follow one another,
some hidden from public view. The different representations of Shiva, once
blessed by a priest, will tour the temple. 10 22 41The upper floor of the temple is home to
its most sacred place. Reserved for Hindus, it houses different representations of
Shiva and a standing stone, the lingam. In the surrounding countryside, the sugarcane harvest is in full swing
. The harvest is carried out entirely by hand and will
mainly be used to supply the local market. For decades, the The forests of the
region were used to fuel fires, both for domestic and industrial use,
particularly for large kilns used for making bricks. To green up all
these areas, eucalyptus trees were planted, trees that are particularly water-hungry.
Only a few patches of primary forest remain. This one is called the sacred wood. The vegetation hides a rather unique place
: the Vepur Ayyanar sanctuary. It is dedicated to a very popular god
in Tamil Nadu who protects villagers from evil spirits and bad weather.
Ayyanar takes the form of a warrior, surrounded by an army of horses,
cows and elephants. These terracotta sculptures are around 200
hundred years old. Beyond the technical performance, their presence is a way of venerating
the souls of soldiers killed in combat. A few figurines representing benefactor families
complete this improbable picture. Rice is the staple food as in
a large part of India. Tamil Nadu generally experiences two monsoons per year,
which often allows for two harvests. Many tasks are still carried out
manually and the use of fertilizers is still very much ingrained. In the neighboring village, Sudat is finishing her modeling. She is making a kind
of brazier-style stove. 10 25 27The container is intended to
be placed directly on a fire, regularly fueled by the
wood needed for cooking. “The earth is a mixture
of clay and rice bran, these are small braziers that are
used with wood.” The braziers will first dry
before being cooked in a basic way, buried in embers. His neighbor, Anamatei, carries out
more sophisticated work with an astonishing wheel. He only works the earth when the sun is strong enough to
partially dry his pots. He then places them for an hour in an
oven made of palm branches. “ these are containers that are used
to cook sauces that will be used to accompany the rice, but you can
also cook lots of things with them. We return to the coast of the
Bay of Bengal to discover the town of Chidambaram and its temple
of Nataraja, also dedicated to Shiva. Around the sacred basin, some
sanctuaries date from the 6th century. The Gopuras, the towers, date from
the 12th century and are decorated with an impressive quantity
of stone and stucco sculptures. The bas-reliefs depict
sacred poses from classical Tamil dance. The temple is run by the Dikshithar, a hereditary caste of Brahmins
like Kannan Swamy, the current director. “Chidambaran is considered the main
temple for all the gods, called Irudaya Sthanam. The temple is modeled on the rhythm of
human life. We have six daily prayers and six major annual festivals. It is said that
Shiva would have arrived from Mt Kailash to pray here All activities must cease at 9:30 p.m. because this is the time when the gods
return to the temple to sleep. About sixty kilometers further west, Karikal is one of the 5 former French trading posts
in India, under the governance of Pondicherry. At the height of its commercial period, the
villagers cultivated different species of rice, indigo, copra, to a lesser
extent tobacco and sugar cane. Karikal was also an important port
with active shipbuilding. There are relatively few traces of this period, just a few old
administrative buildings and villas from the time. This bourgeois residence has been
split into several parts. And of this library, only the gate remains. The Maison de France, which depends on the consulate,
provides a permanent service for the 300 or so French people still residing in the city. Nirmala
Velou frequented it throughout her childhood, my grandfather was a soldier, he fought in the
Vietnam War and the Algerian War, so the former soldiers met here at the
end of the year. There were raffles, reunions, they received
gifts and the children of the soldiers played in the courtyards and in fact for me,
this place is filled with many childhood memories and many reunions,
it is something very sentimental. Opposite the War Memorial,
the former governor’s residence is now occupied by the municipality. Continuing our route west, the
coast alternates between rocky passages and unwelcoming beaches. We
also discover unexpected places, such as the remains of an old
Danish colony, here in Tranquebar. This fort, built in 1620, served as a trading base
before being sold to the English in 1845. The village still has some
colonial buildings. It was partly restored after the tsunami of 2004. A few kilometers away,
the Tirukkadaiyur temple is quite unique: it is
entirely devoted to remarriages. When the husband reaches 60 and then 80, couples come to renew their
vows, this time in the presence of their children and grandchildren who were
not present at the original celebration. All day long, there is a parade
of magnificent saris. The ceremonies are so successful that
appointments must be made several weeks in advance. Depending on the financial means of the
families, more or less sophisticated rituals accompany the couples
led by one or more priests. At the end of the ceremony, family and friends line up to receive the
blessing of the newly remarried. The oldest couples are particularly in demand and even bless
strangers to the family. Another ritual involves pouring
sacred water over the bride and groom. These are the last prostrations for the Re-married Ravi and Mani who
complete a grueling marathon. “I am 60 years old, we are here to celebrate our 37th
wedding anniversary, I came from Kandipuram to celebrate this” Given the success of the temple with this
type of ceremony, several other temples in southern India are considering the idea of ​​imitating them.
On our journey, it was important to go a little inland towards Kerala
to go to Chettinad. This is the country of the Nattukottai Chettiar, a Tamil caste who
made their fortune in business and banking. Many left India for
Southeast Asia, particularly Burma, in the 19th century. Thanks to the money amassed from their activities, they
built palaces of various architectural styles . But when their businesses
failed, the families could no longer afford to maintain them and
dozens of them fell into disrepair. ruin. In 2010, two French architects,
Bernard Dragon and Michel Adment, restored this palace to
make it a hotel. 11 months of work were necessary to
restore the place to its former splendor. “This architecture, in addition, we like it
a lot because it is an architecture which is also organized as I say but there are
very ancient rules, which is called Vastu shastra which organizes all the
spaces, so everything is thought out it is a real learned architecture so we have the impression
of living in a Roman villa it is very close to the Roman villa, with the
interior courtyards, the marbles, the columns.” The building dates from 1905. It belonged
to a wealthy Tamil merchant. We can still admire the incredible work
done on the door frames. To decorate his palace, the owner brought in precious woods and
marble. A place of state, the residence could accommodate large receptions
numbering several hundred of people. Thanks to this meticulous restoration,
the palace escaped destruction. To try to save other buildings, the
two architects created an NGO in the early 2000s. There, they defended their ambition
to the government of Tamil Nadu and obtained the inclusion of 12 villages
in a UNESCO tentative list. All around Karaikudi, the main village, there are dozens of palaces. Even
the temples have a princely air. In Kanadukathan, with the Maharaja’s palace,
we enter another dimension. Built in 1900, owned by Sir Annamalai
Chettiar, it took ten years of work to complete this sumptuous residence, which the family
ultimately only lived in for a few years. The owner acquired his
British noble title by being the first governor of the Imperial Bank
of India. He also became Raja of Chettinad. Still owned by the family, the palace is rented today to
organize sumptuous weddings. From the lavish era of these constructions, there are
very few craftsmen left. Selvaraj and his team produce tiles that
will decorate the floors of these homes, with a
rather astonishing mirror manufacturing technique. Once the colors and
graphic patterns are placed, the frames are covered with a
mixture of sand, earth and cement. This is a know-how that I have from
my grandfather and that we have passed on. It is a traditional technique that
was used to dress all the palaces. After being removed from the mold, the
tiles will dry and then spend several days in water. They
will then be ready for use. Unless there is a government or association initiative, this precious know-how is
unfortunately at risk of disappearing. About ten kilometers away, we
find Divya Sriguru, a traditional dancer who gives a class in Bharatha
Natyam, a sacred art performed in temples. I perform this dance in temples
, it is an offering to the gods, during major religious festivals we are
then a whole troupe to perform these sacred dances, we are also invited
to perform at weddings. ” “All the movements have a meaning
when I do this with the eyes I express anger, for the god Ganesh, we imagine
the flapping of the elephant’s ears like this, and with the arm it will be the trunk,
or the peacock like this.” Divya is only 23 years old. She has won
numerous competitions which have allowed her to acquire an envied status
as a performer and teacher. The journey will still be long for
these young apprentices before they can perform in a temple or on a stage.
But they are already aware that this is a dream opportunity to be able to practice
a profession that they love while earning a decent living, in a region
where such opportunities are rare. In Palathur, the Kulathurpatiyar Palace still belongs to the descendants of
its first owner. The family of Meenakshi Subramanian no longer lives there but
makes great efforts to maintain it. The house was built 120 years ago
by a moneylender banker who had also made a fortune in the tea trade in Burma,
then a territory of the British crown. “This is what we call here the part of the
business where the Chettiars lent money, they had a role of bank,
so people who wanted to have money came here,
this place is called Mogapu.” This place was made to serve
drinks and food, traditionally it is called Spandikate,
it was a kind of dining room, people sat on the floor,
whether for a dinner or a special occasion ” Trichy is almost located
in the center of Tamil Nadu, it is an important city
particularly known for its temples. The city developed on the banks of the
Cauvery, one of the sacred rivers of India, like the Ganges. Amma Mandapam
is a place where people come to purify themselves, perform post-cremation rituals
following the death of a relative, and resolve astrological questions.
For this, many priests officiate all day, each
with more or less a specialty. The closest relatives of the deceased, son, husband, brother, must shave their heads before
lighting the cremation pyre. They thus follow a specific ritual
to help the soul of the deceased to leave. These practices may seem
strange to the uninitiated but they obey very precise rules
that combine astrology, gods and prayers. For a few rupees, one can also
receive the blessing of an elephant. Some are sprinkled with sacred water, a ritual intended to resolve
questions related to the horoscope. As with the Ganges, immersing oneself
in the Cauvery is considered a form of purification. Trichy has several important temples, such as
the Sri Jambukeshwar dedicated to Shiva and water. We have an appointment with Sri Nivasan, a priest
who accompanies the rituals with Tamil chants. The sculptures adorning the ceilings
and columns are impressive. “Among the 5 elements, there is water, this
temple represents water and Shiva appeared there through a lingam made of
water. Even today in our temple the goddess Parvati dances for
Shiva every evening from 10:30 to 22:30. With great strides another priest
crosses the temple to enter the sanctum sanctorum to bless a
yellow sandalwood paste that he will apply to specific points of the sacred cow.
According to mythology it contains all the gods of Hinduism, each
anointing corresponding to a god The faithful will then rush to
enjoy the traces of the sacred anointing The Rock Fort Temple is another
distinctive sign of the city of Trichy. This 83 m promontory includes
both a fort and several temples, the oldest of which dates from
the Palava period in the 7th century. A golden headdress surmounts the holy of
holies of the Thayumanaswamy temple. In Tamil Nadu, every
morning in front of the doors of houses, people make a kind of mandala: these
geometric designs are called Kolam. Here, people come to find all the colors they
want to make them. For several years, chemical colors
have replaced natural shades they. They offer a wider range of choices but
are not without health risks. Originally, Kolams were
made with rice powder. In Trichy, the Meenakshi family draws
kolams daily in front of their house. Their layout varies from the
simplest to the most elaborate. The creations are listed in a notebook, because the family often participates in
competitions, with some success. The house expert is Vishnu Priya who has
launched into a kolam of her own invention. She completed the outlines of her
creation with astonishing speed. Now it’s time to give it some color. “It’s above all a pleasure to draw like this, the colors really stand out in the morning light
. It is a way of honoring the gods, for certain festivals we sometimes
draw them until late at night, 1 a.m. or even 2 a.m., but it is a pleasure
to discover them in the morning in full light . In Trichy, the temple of Sri Ranganathaswamy
is almost a city in its own right with its succession of enclosures and gates. It is
dedicated to Vishnu and comprises some 49 separate shrines. It is considered the largest
Hindu temple in the world still in operation. The temple features many
impressive sculptures such as horses rearing up in battle and the
representation of the ten incarnations of Vishnu. The Venugopal shrine is adorned with
exquisitely detailed 16th-century Nayak sculptures of gopis,
large-breasted shepherdesses, and statues of Krishna. The heart of the temple is
accessible only to Hindus. The golden dome represents the
cosmic residence of Vishnu. The temple is full of amazing and
spectacular places. His visit immerses us in a thousand-year-old culture, steeped
in beliefs and traditions. Due to its size and richness, this
sanctuary is one of the jewels of Tamil Nadu, one of its unmissable stops.
But in India, the journey never ends…

Plongez au cœur de l’Inde du Sud, là où la ferveur des temples rencontre l’héritage colonial, où les fêtes sacrées illuminent les villes, et où les traditions millénaires rythment la vie quotidienne.

✋ Les plus belles destinations, c’est ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez‑vous ! 🙏

Ce voyage débute au Tamil Nadu, berceau d’une culture ancestrale façonnée par la spiritualité hindoue, la colonisation européenne et les idéaux utopistes d’Auroville.
À Pondichéry, ancienne cité française, les ruelles racontent l’histoire d’un métissage unique entre Orient et Occident. Plus loin, les temples de Thiruvannamalai vibrent au rythme des processions dédiées à Shiva.
Dans les campagnes, les potiers, danseurs et bâtisseurs perpétuent des savoir-faire rares. Le documentaire nous entraîne aussi à Trichy et dans les palais oubliés des Natukotai Shétiar.
Une exploration sensible et profonde, entre cérémonies sacrées, architectures majestueuses, et paysages empreints de beauté et de silence.

00:00 – Tamil Nadu et Pondichéry
02:30 – Histoire coloniale et influence française à Pondichéry
08:40 – L’ashram de Sri Aurobindo et la cité d’Auroville
16:50 – Thiruvannamalai : rituels hindous et temple de Shiva
23:50 – Sanctuaires ruraux et traditions agraires
27:10 – Temples majeurs : Nataraja et Shiva à Chidambaram
30:30 – Remariages rituels et fêtes populaires
33:50 – Les palais oubliés des Natukotai Shétiar
36:10 – Danses sacrées et arts traditionnels
41:20 – Trichy : temples, funérailles et rituels hindous
48:50 – Le temple de Sri Ranganathaswami : spiritualité vivante
✋Les plus belles destinations, c’est ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez vous ! 🙏

Un film de Eric Bacos
Droits réservés Ampersand

#inde #visitindia #tamoul