世界上最隐秘的村落:常年生活在零下30度环境,每年有9个月与世隔绝!每天靠男人拉木材生火取暖
Hidden deep in the Himalayas is a world that is almost isolated from the outside world. In the Zanskar Valley, the winter here lasts up to 9 months. When the snow closes the mountain, the only “road” is a dangerous path called the “Devil’s Glacier” by the locals. In summer , it is the turbulent Zanskar River. In winter, it freezes into the Chadar Glacier, which becomes the only channel for villagers to communicate with the outside world. However, this “road” is more like the playground of the god of death . A group of men wearing worn-out rubber rain boots climbed the nearly vertical ice wall with their bare hands. Under their feet was the ice layer that could break at any time. If they were not careful, they would fall into the icy glacier. They were not extreme sports enthusiasts , but villagers who risked their lives to carry wood for a reward of 600 rupees (about 50 yuan). The fate of the women in the valley was equally cruel. After adulthood, they had only two choices: marry a man they had never met or shave their heads and become monks to accompany the ancient Buddha for life . Here, marriage is a “kidnapping” and becoming a monk is another “exile” , while men cross the “Devil’s Glacier” year after year, exchanging their lives for a meal. This ancient custom How did customs come about? In this remote village, are the women really willing to accept such a fate , or is there unspeakable helplessness behind it? Welcome to Zanskar, one of the most beautiful and cruel valleys in the world. Zanskar is a place that is naturally alienated from the world. It is located in the northern foothills of the Himalayas . “Zanskar” means “copper valley” in Tibetan , but this name sounds warm but is actually cold and ruthless. This plateau valley in the Ladakh region of India has an average annual temperature of only around zero degrees Celsius, and the winter can last up to eight months . The cold wind sweeps across the valley, and snow falls from the sky, covering everything . Roads and communications are cut off, and the whole world is like being covered by transparent glass, unable to move. Half of the time of the year , this place becomes an isolated secret place, with closed mountain roads and impassable vehicles. The outside world is cut off from supplies, and the Zanskar people have to stockpile food and firewood to survive the severe cold. The only way out is to walk along the frozen Zanskar River. The river is called “Chadar” , an ice road that only appears in winter and is also known as the “most dangerous road to school.” The “Last Ice Trail” is a road that connects the outside world to the villagers, monks, porters and children. They all have to walk on the thin ice and cross mountains and ridges at the risk of falling into ice caves. It is this isolated geographical environment that has shaped the extremely closed social structure of Zanskar and made traditional culture stick to it. Their world is the sky above their heads and the valley under their feet. The traditional social norms are as heavy as this mountain and cannot be shaken or questioned. The villages in Zanskar are far apart and transportation is difficult. Different villages have different customs and dialects, but they are surprisingly consistent in the matter of “gender roles”. Men are responsible for the outside world and women are responsible for the inside world. Boys are expected to study , go out and make money from an early age. They are the support for the future. Girls are trained to be “qualified daughters-in-law” from a very young age , cooking, milking, carrying firewood, and mending clothes. They are taught to be obedient , hardworking , and able to endure hardships, because in the future they will have to take care of their parents-in-law, take care of their husbands and children , and not bring shame to themselves. This concept comes not only from the family but also from the value system of the entire village. In Zanskar, a family is not an emotional haven for individuals , but a functional survival unit. The role of each member is fixed. Men are the source of income, and women are internal labor. Marriage is not the result of love , but a tool for family alliance. A daughter marrying to another village means that the bond and mutual assistance between families will continue. Geographical isolation also makes this The marriage system here seems extremely primitive. Many families still retain the “bride-robbing” ceremony. When a man decides to marry a girl, he will bring a few relatives to sneak into the girl’s house late at night and symbolically “kidnap” her. Although most of the time this behavior is a traditional process agreed upon in advance by the parents of both parties , in form it still retains the old concept that “women are objects that can be taken away.” If the geographical isolation determines the distance between people, then the traditional system further solidifies the identities between people. On this plateau, the life path of women is extremely narrow. Either get married or become a nun. This choice seems free , but it is actually an invisible command. Women can only… Being arranged instead of arranging oneself . When these systems are covered by ice and snow, many people mistakenly think that it is a kind of “pure” or “ancient” culture. However, behind this white valley, isolation does not mean pure tradition, nor is it always a virtue. Some rules are out of helplessness for survival, and some “culture” is the acquiescence of the power structure. The most common job in Zanskar is to carry wood in winter. In the severe winter, every household has to buy firewood and building materials from outside the mountain . Because the roads are cut off and cars cannot pass, people can only drag the heavy wood into the valley one by one along the frozen Zanskar River. This job is called “ice porter” , which is one of the most dangerous and tiring but also the most profitable livelihoods. The men had to get up at three in the morning, light the last piece of cow dung to warm their feet , then take the rope and the tow board and step onto the frozen river. The round trip was 60 kilometers. The natural ice track had no guardrails and there was a turbulent current under the ice. If someone slipped, he would never come back. With hundreds of kilograms of wood tied to their backs , every step under their feet could create a life-or-death gap. With their hands and second-hand rubber shoes, they climbed up the nearly 90-degree cliff . Some villagers who were afraid of heights would rather choose the more dangerous wading. In the evening, the temperature dropped to nearly minus 20 degrees Celsius. After their pants got wet, they could only wear wet clothes to the shelter to dry them the next morning. After breakfast, they stepped onto the glacier again. The narrow ice surface was only wide enough for one person to pass through. If one fell into the turbulent river, he would be directly sucked under the ice. In addition to being doubly careful , the only thing left was to pray for Buddha’s blessing. However, the money earned was not much. The cost of carrying a piece of wood was equivalent to 12 yuan. After a trip, they could earn at most 30 to 40 yuan. This income was also used to support the children’s education, buy salt, change oil, and buy winter clothes. This money was earned at the risk of almost falling into the glacier . The man who could carry the wood longer would have more firewood to burn this winter. At the turn of spring and summer, the men turned to herding and guiding. The mountains of Zanskar are suitable for grazing yaks and goats. These animals are the most important source of wealth for the family and are also the “mobile bank”. Men take their animals over mountains and across hills in search of water and grass. Sometimes they walk for weeks on end , relying only on tsampa and butter for food. They sleep in sheds at night and watch out for wolves during the day. Wool, dairy products and livestock trading are their second source of income. If the children in the family are good at studying, the men will work hard to save money for their children to go to school. Some people sell all their cattle and sheep just to raise enough money for their children to go to school in Leh for travel and accommodation. For them, the cities closest to the mountains are like windows to another kind of destiny. Even if they cannot get out of the valley for their entire lives , they hope that their children can escape through that window. Summer is short. During the “peak tourist season”, some men rely on their knowledge of mountain roads to serve as temporary highland guides to lead foreign hikers on the “snow line crossing” or carry luggage over the pass. Sometimes they can earn dozens to hundreds of yuan a day, but the prerequisite is that they can walk and bear it, and they have to bet on the weather and their health. For older people, this kind of work can only be done for one or two years , and then they can only return home to continue herding or rely on their children for support. Their daily lives have no rhythm, and everything is forced to move forward by survival. When they go out, they have to work, and when they come back, they have to repair the roof , repair the fence, add firewood , drink, play cards, and sit around. That is other people’s lives . Their hands are rough, their faces are sunburned, and their skin is always a mixture of wind, sand and charcoal smoke . Many The man’s teeth have fallen out before he is forty, his back has long been bent, but he still has to hold on and continue to work. In Zanskar, men use the most primitive way to create a place for their families in this world . In Zanskar, a marriage does not start with love , nor does it require mutual understanding. As long as the family accepts a cup of butter tea sent by the man, the marriage is stamped with the seal of fate. Tenzin’s marriage began like this. She was only eighteen years old , an age when she could still run on the snow and secretly read books under the eaves. But that winter, her father sat by the stove and accepted the tea sent by the neighboring village. At that moment, there was no turning back in her life . She had never seen her ” “Husband” I had never even heard of his name. I only knew that he lived in a village a few hills away, that he was the eldest son of a herding family, that he had a tin house, a few yaks, and an old mother who needed care. This information was hastily decided amid the laughter of my father and several relatives, just like a livestock transaction, understated but irreversible. The day of the wedding was particularly cold. When the frosted wooden door was opened in the morning, a piercing chill squeezed in. Tenjin sat beside his mother and let her comb her hair, tie a belt embroidered with red edges, put on turquoise stone ornaments and heavy Tibetan silver earrings. The outfit did not belong to her , but to all “girls who are supposed to get married” , a set of clothes passed down from generation to generation. The suit is all about the sense of ceremony. Her eyes are empty, just like the frost hanging under the eaves in the morning, neither glittering nor melting. The wedding was held in the open space outside the house. Several men beat drums around the fire, and the women brought out homemade barley wine. When the groom showed up with his relatives, Danjin saw for the first time the man who was about to spend his life with him. He was not tall or handsome , and his expression was a little reserved. There was no eye contact or greeting between them . The two people who should have met in some kind of emotion were silent to each other in the lively ceremony, like two puppets being pulled together, completing the handover of fate in the crowd. On the third day after the wedding, she was officially sent to her husband’s home. It was a simple stone house with walls . The mottled house was filled with dried yak dung and piled firewood. The kitchen, bedroom, and livestock pen were crowded in the same space. The air was mixed with the smell of smoke, cow dung, and ghee. She did not ask why , nor did she express dissatisfaction. She just lowered her head, took off her wedding dress , wrapped herself in a heavy woolen robe , and walked into the kitchen, starting from the position her mother had taught her countless times, boiling water , cooking, and feeding the cows . During the day , she had to clean the yard, wash clothes, scoop water, and hang bedding in the biting wind. At night, she curled up under the woolen quilt and listened to her husband’s gentle snoring . Her heart was as silent as if it was frozen. There was no honeymoon , no romance , and no word “happiness”. Marriage in Zanskar is responsibility, order, and fate. Luck , not choice. The husband was not bad. He did not beat her , nor did he get drunk and make trouble. But he never tried to understand her either. It was as if marrying a wife was just a stage task that an adult male had to complete , and she was just the one assigned to complete this task. In the winter when she was pregnant, Zanskar encountered a blizzard. The roofs creaked under the weight of the snow, and the whole village was buried in the white. She went to the river to fetch water with her belly bulging, but she fell on the icy stone steps and limped back to the house. She said nothing, but gritted her teeth , poured the water into the pot , and continued to chop wood. No one praised her for her strength , and no one thought she worked hard, because here women should be like this, and her life might pass like this. Reincarnating in firewood, cold wind, silence and childbirth, her daughter may repeat this path in the future, walking into another stranger’s house after a cup of butter tea in winter. In Zanskar, a world where women can only “get married” or “become a nun”, Paji chose the latter , not because of how pious she was , but because she didn’t want to be a tool whose fate could be decided by anyone. She was not a quiet girl since she was a child . When most of her peers were learning to knead dough, milk cows and take care of their younger siblings, she would rather hide behind the cowshed and read the old textbooks left by her brother , even if the books were full of letters she couldn’t understand. She once secretly followed her mother to herd sheep on the hillside, but refused to go home even when her shoes were worn out. She also followed her mother over the snowy ridge to go to the market, and saw the mountains for the first time. There were people with clothes of another color and with other expressions. She couldn’t tell what they meant. She only knew that she wanted to see more and do more instead of spending her whole life around the stove and the yaks. But in the village, such thoughts were like seeds sprouting in winter and would soon be frozen to death. When she was fourteen, her father received a marriage proposal. The other party’s family was not bad and the boy was not very old. The two families felt that they were “equally matched”. On the day of the proposal, her mother sat silently by the stove. Her father nodded and the cup of tea was placed on the table. Paji heard the noise from behind the house and said nothing, but left home in the middle of the night and walked six kilometers along the mountain road just to find the nun elder of the temple . The first time she expressed her desire to become a nun was in the early morning when the mountain was closed by heavy snow . At that time, she was covered in mud and had frostbite on her hands. The cracking sound was even sharper than the snow. The elder frowned at her and shook his head to refuse. You are too young to recite the scriptures and have no knowledge. The temple cannot afford it. She did not cry or beg, but went back home to continue cooking and feeding the cows. Everything was normal. But from that day on, she no longer talked about marriage and no longer made wedding clothes. Her father scolded her for being stubborn. Her mother secretly wiped her tears. She did not explain or resist because she knew that as long as she did not nod, the marriage would never be complete. Finally, in the winter when she was fifteen years old, she took a thin quilt and two pieces of tsampa and set foot on the glacier road to the temple again. She walked very slowly on this road, and every step seemed to be gambling with her life. The temperature of minus 20 degrees froze her shoes like stones, and her cracked toes were bleeding and frozen in her socks. Along the way were broken ice, turbulent undercurrents and rugged rocks. She could only climb the rocks with her hands and cross the cliffs with rope suspension bridges. Sometimes she even slept in the sheepfold overnight just to avoid freezing to death . Six days later, she finally reached her destination, a remote small temple. There were no magnificent pagodas or halls with a lot of incense. There were only a few mud houses and a dozen nuns who were also trying to escape their fate. This time she was not rejected. Although the temple was poor , it could accommodate a stubborn girl like her. On the day of the tonsure ceremony, she sat on the stone bench in front of the house. The sun shone on her dark face. The elder picked up the razor and cut off her long hair strand by strand. She did not cry or lower her head. Instead, she looked up at the snow-capped mountains, as if to confirm that she had finally left something behind. At that moment, she felt a kind of quietness she had never felt before . It was not the tranquility of the temple , nor the relief in her heart. It was a kind of lightness after being deprived. In the past, her thick hair was a symbol of her girlhood and the “female mark” given to her by her family. Now, those shaved hairs were like broken chains , freeing her from the “arranged” life. Becoming a nun did not mean that she had found happiness, but at least it was the suffering she chose. She began to get up at three in the morning every day to chant sutras, chop wood, make fire, and clean the temple . During the day , she copied sutras, sewed robes , and learned Tibetan. At night, she meditated, practiced in seclusion, or took care of young nuns. There were no holidays or entertainment. Life was as boring as a straight line, but she never regretted it. Every time she returned to the monk’s room from the scripture hall and saw herself Whenever she saw the figure with a shaved head and a thin monk’s robe reflected in the bronze mirror, she would silently think of the glacier, the wedding bed that had been prepared for her in the house , and the “husband” whom she would never meet. Although the traditional culture of the Zanskars still dominates people’s lives to a large extent , the influence of the outside world is gradually penetrating into this closed world. With the improvement of transportation conditions and the development of modern communication technology, the young people of the Zanskars have begun to have more opportunities to contact the outside world . Although this change is slow , it is irreversible. More and more young people are beginning to question the rationality of traditional customs. They are eager to receive education. Education is eager to learn about the outside world. In geographical terms, this is a buffer zone where Indian and Tibetan cultures blend. It is a valley hidden in the folds of the Himalayas. It is separated from the world by snow-capped peaks, glaciers, mountain passes and languages , but it is not completely isolated from the world . Occasionally, tourists come here to record the mystery of the plateau with their cameras. Some people try to bring education, medical care and technology into the village to open a crack of light , but what is more difficult to break is the invisible mountain system, concept, gender and destiny gravity deep in people’s hearts . Especially young women , they begin to realize that they should have more choices in life. However , it is not easy to change a deep-rooted cultural tradition . The older generation of the Zanskar people still adhere to traditional customs. They are worried that the influence of the outside world will destroy their cultural traditions. This conflict in concepts has led to conflicts and frictions between generations. A girl born in Zanskar usually knows from an early age that her life will not belong to her. She will either become a “bargain” of a family or a “sacrifice” of tonsure. Even if she doesn’t want to, she can only choose one of these two options . The ending that seems “slightly less bad”. As for men, they seem to have more choices. They can go to work outside the mountains and be porters, tour guides, herders They can try to break free from the valley’s predicament , but in fact they are also firmly bound by the identity of “pillars”. They carry wood and the burden of the family , but they don’t really relax. They live to keep their families alive. It’s not easy to make long videos. If you like this content, please subscribe, like, and forward our next video. It will be more exciting.
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