Forgotten English Royal Palace: Eltham Palace and Gardens

Forgotten English Royal Palace: Eltham Palace and Gardens

What does King Henry VIII, a Byzantine Emperor and a pampered Lemur have in common? Join 
us at Eltham Palace and find out more! Eltham Palace stands as a remarkable testament 
to the ever-evolving landscape of England history and architectural ambition. It is located in the 
town of Eltham in the London borough of Greenwich, 12 miles southeast of central London, which is 
visible from the palace grounds. It is looked after today by English Heritage, and you can 
find out all the information about tickets and visiting here. Our journey begins outside 
amidst the tranquil gardens that whisper tales of centuries past. Having purchased your 
tickets, the path leads you towards the palace. Even before it became a royal residence, 
the site at Eltham held significance. The Doomsday Book of 1086 records the manner 
of Eltham belonging to Odo, the half-brother of William the Conqueror. This early mention 
underscores the significance of the location, hinting at its inherent value that would 
attract powerful figures over the centuries. The estate changed hands several 
times until 1295, when Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham, acquired it. Beck, a 
man of considerable influence and wealth, embarked on a significant rebuilding of the manor 
house, including the construction of a defensive perimeter wall of stone and brick within the 
line of the moat and a hunting park to the west. A pivotal moment arrived in 1305 when 
Beck presented the manor to the future King Edward II. This marked the beginning of 
Eltham’s long and distinguished association with the English monarchy, transforming it 
from a bishop’s manor into a royal palace. Both Edward II and his father frequently 
resided here, recognising its appeal and strategic location close to London. Edward II further improved the estate, including the construction 
of a new retaining wall. The current walls generally follow those lines, 
but the brickwork has changed over the centuries. Edward later bestowed the manor upon 
his Queen, Isabella. This royal link was further solidified with the birth of their 
son, John of Eltham, at the palace in 1316. By the early 14th century, Eltham had grown to 
become one of the largest and most frequented royal residences in the entire country. Edward III spent much of his youth here and continued to visit frequently throughout his reign. In 1356, 
John II of France was defeated in the Battle of Poitiers, an English victory during the Hundred 
Years’ War. Captured, he briefly visited Eltham on his way back to France following a release 
negotiation but in 1364 John found himself back at Eltham for a significant event. Two days of 
great dancing and carolling. John was hosted in the manner befitting his royal status, even 
though he was a captive guest of King Edward II, having voluntarily returned to England due to 
a matter of knightly honour and the terms of his earlier release. This event was documented, 
describing Eltham as the most magnificent manor! Successive monarchs continued to invest in 
and enjoy Eltham. Richard II, for instance, allocated considerable funds to the palace, 
including the creation of a bath house and a dancing chamber, further enhancing its reputation 
as a place of royal pleasure and entertainment. Henry IV also held Eltham in high regard, celebrating 10 of his 13 Christmases there. 
A particularly noteworthy event during his reign was the visit of Manuel II Paleologus the 
only Byzantine Emperor ever to visit England, who was hosted over Christmas in the year 
1400, complete with a joust held in his honour. The reign of Edward IV in the 15th century 
marked another significant phase in Eltham’s development. He was particularly fond of 
the palace and in the 1470s commissioned the construction of the magnificent great 
hall, which remains a central feature of the site today. We’ll head inside later and see 
the hall as part of our interior walk. This grand hall served as a vital space for court dining, 
entertainment, and important ceremonial events. Later, Henry VII utilised 
Eltham as a royal nursery, further cementing its role 
within the royal family. The future King Henry VIII spent much of his 
childhood at Eltham, and it was here in 1499 that he met and impressed the renowned scholar 
Erasmus, who was introduced to him by Thomas More. Even Anne Boleyn, early in her reign, was 
involved in minor alterations to the palace, indicating its continued albet, perhaps diminished 
royal use. By the 1530s, Henry was much more fond of his wonderful new palace at Hampton Court and 
would be the last monarch to spend a great deal of time at Eltham. Charles I was the last king 
to visit, but the palace was reported to be in a bad state with parts collapsing. This 
only accelerated during the English Civil War when parliamentary troops ransacked much 
of the palace and demolished many buildings. When the monarchy was restored in 
1660, the great hall and chapel, whilst still standing, were in ruins. By the 18th century, the grounds were 
repurposed as a working farm. The great hall, which had been exposed to the elements, had its 
roof tiled and was used as a barn. Over time, the palace deteriorated and became a picturesque 
ruin that attracted artists to draw and paint it. Whilst I’ve been explaining the key moments 
of the history, we have been wandering around the beautiful gardens, their most dramatic 
transformation occurred in the 1930s when Stephen and Virginia Courtauld leased 
the palace from the crown for 99 years. They were a wealthy and influential couple 
known for their philanthropic activities, their adventurous spirit and their significant 
contribution to art culture and the restoration of historic buildings, most notably here at 
Eltham. Stephen Courtauld, a member of the wealthy Courtauld textile family, distinguished 
himself through diverse pursuits rather than direct involvement in the family business. 
Educated at Rugby School and King’s College, Cambridge, his life was marked by significant 
achievements. A decorated World War I veteran, he received the Military Cross. His passion for 
mountaineering led him to achieve his first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1919. As a patron of the arts 
and a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, serving as vice president, Courtauld 
also played a vital role in the film industry as chairman of Ealing Studios for two 
decades, providing essential financial support. His extensive philanthropy supported 
geographical exploration, cultural initiatives, and educational institutions in the UK and 
later in southern Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe. Virginia, “Ginie” Courtauld had an unconventional 
upbringing. Born in Romania to an Italian shipping merchant and a Hungarian mother, 
she spent her childhood in London. Before marrying Steven Courtauld in 1923, whom she met 
in the Alps in 1919, Virginia was a marchioness through a previous unsuccessful marriage to 
an Italian count. Known for her impulsive, creative, and unconventional nature, Virginia 
was a vibrant personality with a passion for animals and philanthropy. A noted socialite and 
art enthusiast, she brought a unique flair to her life. Together, they were a dynamic pair, and 
Eltham Palace was their most famous joint project. The 19 acres of gardens, which I hope you will 
agree are quite delightful, were significantly redesigned and revitalised. Their approach was a 
blend of respecting the historical elements of the site whilst introducing fashionable 1930s garden 
design to cater for their horticultural interests. A significant and fashionable addition 
was a large rock garden constructed from West Moreland limestone on a steep bank, complete 
with pools and cascades running down to the moat. Virginia Courtauld was particularly fond of roses. 
They created a sunken rose garden, a popular feature of the era, laid out with geometric 
beds and a rectangular lily pond. Virginia sourced fashionable rose varieties, but it’s 
too early in the year to see anything blooming. They created distinct garden rooms beyond 
the sunken rose garden, areas enclosed by trees or hedges, often with a bench, which was 
a fashionable concept in 1930s garden design. The current stone bridge, often referred to as 
the north bridge, is a remarkable survivor from the medieval period. It provides access across the 
moat to the palace. Originally a wooden bridge,  followed by stone, the current bridge underwent some rebuilding or enhancements in the late 15th century between 1475 
and 83 during the reign of Edward IV. Below the north bridge is an island on 
which stands a magnificent weeping willow, very fashionable in the 1930s. The stone window was moved here, having been salvaged from Charles Barry’s Palace 
of Westminster during restoration work in 1935. Obtained by an MP friend of Stephens. Crossing the north bridge, we arrive in the turning circle in front of the main house entrance, this 
would have been the inner court of the palace. To one side, we can see the remains of much older 
brick works, the remnants of the royal apartments, most of which were built by Edward IV. 
Excavations in the 1950s revealed some of Bishop Beck’s original buildings and 
tiles from his 1300 great hall and now on display inside the house, with a number of other 
fascinating finds. These buildings were reburied. It is time to enter the house, ahead of 
us is the curved colonnade entrance with two tall copper clad pavilions on either 
side. Stepping inside, we will pass into the world of Stephen and Virginia Courtauld, 
taking us back to the 1930s. They commissioned the architectural firm Seely and Paget 
to bring their ambitious plans to life, adding a contemporary extension in the Art Deco 
style. The entrance hall is truly striking, showcasing the elegance and technological 
advancements of the 1930s. Designed by the Swedish designer Rolf Engströmer immediately 
sets the tone with its dramatic circular design, a glazed dome that floods the space with natural 
light and walls adorned with black bean veneer, and intricate figurative marketetry depicting 
a Viking and a Roman soldier. Around the hall, double doors and stairs lead you off in 
all directions to other parts of the house. The dining room, considered the most 
authentic Art Deco space within the palace, was designed by the Italian designer 
Peter Malacrida. It features walls lined with wafer-thin bird’s eye maple 
veneer and aluminium leaf ceiling with concealed lighting that would have created 
a shimmering effect and distinctive black and silver doors decorated with depictions of 
animals and birds drawn from life at London Zoo. These animal motifs reflect the art deco era’s 
fascination with exoticism and modern design. The room was used for formal and intimate 
dining, and apparently, Virginia was very particular about her food, making notes to 
send back to the kitchen while at the table. The drawing room was sumptuously decorated, 
but today only a hint of what it was like can be shown by reproduction soft furnishings. 
The Courtauld’s left the palace in 1944 for reasons that will become apparent later, so 
many of the items we see are reproductions. Perhaps one of the most memorable aspects of 
their life at Eltham was their pet ringtailed lemur “Johnny”, who was treated like a 
member of the family and even had his own centrally heated cage with a hand-painted 
Madagascan bamboo forest mural. He had the run of the house. Here we see a ladder so 
he could move quickly between the floors, he even features in portraits and travelled 
with them everywhere for 15 years. The Pear Room was a single room for guests, 
a simple space, but with all that was needed for a short stay. The wardrobe and 
writing desk were made of pear wood. Virginia’s private apartments were luxurious, including her opulent bedroom with 
walls lined with maple flexwood. A stunning gold and onyx bathroom, complete with a statue of the goddess 
Psyche, was designed by Malacrida. Stephen’s room was far less flamboyant and was 
designed by Seely to Stephen’s specifications. An aspen-lined bedroom with a walk-in 
wardrobe and a blue and green tiled bathroom. The Courtaulds also incorporated state-of-the-art 
technology into their homes, including underfloor heating in all the main rooms and a 
centralised vacuum cleaning system. Built-in audio connected to a gramophone and 
en-suite bathrooms in most of the bedrooms. Peter and Paul Periano were nephews of Ginie 
and were taken in at the ages of 8 and 10 in 1926. They were in their 20s when Eltham 
was completed. They shared a connecting bathroom with the only shower in the house. 
Peter studied aircraft engineering, and Paul enjoyed flying as a hobby, and sadly was killed 
in action whilst in service as a pilot in 1942. The small garter suite dressing room 
showcases some of the finds from the estate during archaeological work. 
The windows contain fragments of 16th-century and later glass collected by Stephen. Beside the dining room on the ground floor, 
we move through the service wing. Here we see the silver safe, which once held a silver 
service and over 60 pieces of other silver dating from the 18th century. The kitchen was 
not accessible on the tour. In the basement,  we learn about Eltham during World War II. It had a reinforced concrete ceiling and was used as an air raid shelter for the family and guests, 
and they needed it as 450 bombs fell in the area during the Blitz alone, causing plenty 
of damage to the palace. The games room was fitted out with dormitory-style beds for 
Stephen and Ginie and up to five guests. The servants would have slept in the billiard 
room next door. There is a full-sized table and part of a panel painted by Mary Adshead showing 
Johnny the Lemur against an imaginary backdrop. In 1944, the Courtauld’s time at Eltham came to 
an end. The war meant it was too hard to manage a large house, and the bombs worried Ginie, so 
they moved away and gave the remaining 88 years of the lease to the Royal Army Education Corps. The 
building was used for almost 50 years by the army. The basement also contained a 
dark room used by Stephen to develop photographs taken on their many travels. The boudoir was Ginie’s sitting room on the 
ground floor, again designed by Malacrida; it has sycamore wood panelling and an early form 
of built-in furniture around the bookshelves. Over the fireplace is a leather map which displays 
a bird’s eye view of the estate and surroundings. The hidden door, no longer in 
use linked to Stephen’s library. An arch on either side of the sofa led 
to the secretary’s office. Recently, the walls have been found to contain maps 
from all over the world, which were covered by layers of paint and wallpaper, only 
recently rediscovered by English Heritage. Stephen’s library and study was also designed 
by Peter Malacrida and holds a striking bronze statue, “The Sentry”, in the centre. 
Stephen used this room for work and study, and to read about his many interests, 
mountaineering, horticulture, art, architecture, to name but a few! The walls 
were hung with early 19th-century paintings, including 13 by JMW Turner, 
which are copies today. The end of the corridor leads 
to the great hall and displays a 12-panelled Chinese lacquer coromandal, so-called, as they were exported to Europe via the 
Coromandel coast of southeast India. One is immediately struck by the magnificent 
great hall, a testament to the grandeur of medieval architecture built in the 1470s during 
the reign of King Edward IV. This hall served as the very heart of the royal palace. 
It was here that courtly life unfolded, hosting lavish banquets, important 
ceremonies and providing a space for royal entertainment and receptions. The 
great hall was more than just a dining area; it functioned as the central hub for social and 
administrative activities within the royal court at Eltham. Looking up, the breathtaking oak 
hammer beam roof commands attention. It stands as the third largest of its kind in England, 
a remarkable feat of medieval engineering. Evidence suggests that this impressive structure 
was once partially gilded and included a louvre in the centre to ventilate the smoke from an 
open hearth below. The great hall witnessed numerous significant royal occasions. Henry VIII, who spent his formative years at Eltham, is recorded to have enjoyed 10 Christmases 
within these walls. The sheer scale of some of the events held here is astonishing, 
such as a Christmas celebration in 1482, which saw over 2,000 attendees. Furthermore, 
in 1515, Cardinal Wolsey, a powerful figure in Henry VIII’s court, was sworn in as the Lord 
Chancellor in the Great Hall, highlighting its continued importance in state affairs. Centuries 
later, when Eltham Palace underwent its remarkable transformation in the 1930s, Stephen and Virginia 
thoughtfully integrated the medieval Great Hall into their modern residence. Recognising its 
historical and architectural significance, they preserved it as the centrepiece of their 
new home. Intending to use it as a music room, the Courtaulds added a minstrel’s gallery at 
one end; they also commissioned the addition of stained glass in the hall windows in 1936 
by George Krueger Gray. These windows depict the badges of Edward IV and other notable 
owners of the palace, from Bishop Odo to Edward IV and his Queen Elizabeth. Creating a 
visual representation of Eltham’s rich history. The Courtaulds’ respectful incorporation of the 
medieval great hall into their modern design demonstrates a deep appreciation for the past 
while adapting the space for contemporary living As we finish our tour inside the house, you are 
probably wondering what happened to Stephen and Virginia after they made the difficult decision 
to leave their stunningly renovated Art Deco home in 1944. Their initial refuge was in Scotland, but 
by 1951 the couple had embarked on a new chapter, relocating to Southern Rhodesia, now 
Zimbabwe. There, they established a new estate with a magnificent botanic garden. 
They embraced their new surroundings, becoming Rhodesian citizens and leaving a lasting legacy 
through their significant philanthropic work, including funding a theatre and art gallery, and 
notably opposing the era’s racial segregation policies. Following Stephen’s death in Rhodesia in 
1967, Virginia moved to Jersey in 1970, where she passed away two years later. In conclusion, Eltham 
Palace stands as a truly exceptional site where the grandeur of medieval England meets the sleek 
sophistication of the art deco era. It offers a unique opportunity to journey through centuries of 
history from its early days as a royal favourite to its glamorous reinvention in the 1930s. The stories of the monarchs who resided here, the architectural marvels of the great hall, 
and the fascinating lives of the Courtaulds all contribute to the rich tapestry of Eltham Palace. 
It is a timeless treasure that continues to captivate and inspire all who visit. Well, that’s 
it from Eltham Palace, hope you’ve enjoyed the tour around the house and the gardens. The great 
hall was incredible, and it’s been a beautiful day here today, hope you’ve enjoyed it. Do subscribe 
if you haven’t yet, and check out our playlist for more like this on the channel. We’ll see you again 
on another video very soon, take care, goodbye.

Get ready to explore the captivating legacy of a truly unique Royal Palace! Welcome to Eltham Palace and Gardens, a charming estate nestled in South London, boasting a history as rich and diverse as its stunning architecture. From its medieval roots as a cherished childhood home for Henry VIII to its glamorous Art Deco transformation in the 1930s, Eltham Palace offers an unparalleled journey through England’s past.
Prepare to be amazed by the seamless blend of centuries, a testament to the enduring allure of this former Royal Palace. We’re about to explore every nook and cranny of this historical gem, revealing why it’s a must-visit destination for history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and anyone looking for a truly memorable day out. The fascinating story behind this Royal Palace begins long before its famous Art Deco makeover, and we’ll delve into its significant medieval heritage.
Eltham Palace, a royal residence since the 13th century, thrived in the 14th and 15th centuries, favoured by monarchs like Edward II to Henry VIII. The Great Hall, with its impressive hammer-beam roof, remains a testament to this era. Later, in the 1930s, the Courtauld family built a glamorous Art Deco mansion beside the hall, creating a unique blend of medieval and modern. Their home featured lavish details, including a domed entrance, mosaic bathrooms, and even accommodations for their pet lemur, reflecting their extravagant lifestyle and love of travel.

It’s like visiting two incredible historical periods in one location. The attention to detail in the Art Deco interiors is simply exquisite – from the bespoke furniture and light fittings to the opulent materials used throughout. You can explore Virginia Courtauld’s boudoir, Stephen’s study, and the luxurious bedrooms, all meticulously restored to their 1930s splendour.
Secondly, the gardens are an absolute delight. Spanning 19 acres, they offer a beautiful and tranquil escape. You’ll find a stunning sunken rose garden, a rock garden, and beautiful herbaceous borders, providing colour and interest throughout the seasons. The medieval moat, which once surrounded the original palace, adds another layer of historical charm to the landscape. It’s the perfect place for a leisurely stroll, a picnic, or simply to sit and soak up the atmosphere of this extraordinary place. Don’t miss the views from the North Terrace, looking out over the London skyline.
Eltham Palace and Gardens is more than just a historic house; it’s a vibrant testament to England’s multifaceted past, a place where medieval grandeur meets Art Deco glamour most unexpectedly and delightfully. It’s a photographer’s dream, a history lover’s paradise, and a design enthusiast’s inspiration.

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00:00 Introduction
00:33 Arriving at Eltham Palace
01:35 Early History of Eltham Palace
05:11 Monarchs Love Eltham!
07:20 The Decline of Eltham Palace
08:24 Stephen and Virginia Courtauld Save Eltham
10:48 Designing the Gardens
12:57 Medieval North Bridge
14:36 Tour inside Eltham Palace
23:43 The Great Hall
26:20 What happened to the Courtaulds?
27:15 Summary of visit

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