El Camino de San Salvador

El Camino de San Salvador

[Bells] [Bells] I am in León, a beautiful city like few others, one of the jewels of the Camino de Santiago… but I am not walking the Camino de Santiago. Join me on the Camino de San Salvador. [Music] The Camino de San Salvador is a 4- to 6-day pilgrimage on foot from León to Oviedo, in northern Spain, crossing the Cantabrian mountain range. It’s part of the network of Jacobean routes, that is, the Way of St. James. If you take the most famous route, the so-called “French Way,” you’ll pass through León, which is where we are here. But when you reach the old convent of San Marcos, before leaving the city, you will see two alternatives marked with the classic yellow arrows. [Music] One is to continue along the French road heading west. The other to take the San Salvador road towards Oviedo. [Music] My name is Pablo. I’ve done the trail a couple of times. The last time, when passing through León, they told me that “He who goes to Santiago and does not go to the Savior,” “visits the servant and forgets the Lord.” It is a saying that was coined when pilgrims coming along the French Way were reminded that in Oviedo there is an even more important reason to make a pilgrimage: the relics of Christ kept in the Holy Chamber of Oviedo Cathedral. Thus many took this route before continuing to Santiago following the so-called primitive road. How nice. A small table on a plateau. Perfect for resting and eating a snack. [Music] The interesting thing about the Camino del Salvador is that unlike other intermediate Jacobean routes, this is a pilgrimage in itself and that is how I am doing it today, that is, without continuing to Santiago. There are many who, if they only have a week, would complete the final stages of the French Way in Galicia. Honestly, taking the San Salvador route seems like a better option to me, especially during peak season. It is a bit more demanding and offers fewer options for overnight stays, and in winter, with rain and even snow, it can become a very difficult challenge. That’s why I waited to do it until spring. And here’s a typical moment, a pilgrim’s artifact: a guest book in the middle of nowhere with a first-aid kit and holy cards of Padre Pio. Friends of the Camino associations always have these little surprises in store for us. Another typical moment: when you start wondering when the hell you’ll get to the town and finally spot it in the distance. Throughout the first stage we walked along the Bernesga River. You leave the city of León very quickly and the surroundings are very green. The stage itself isn’t very demanding, but since the first day was difficult due to my lack of fitness, Idecided to cut it short and stay in Cabanillas, where there’s a municipal hostel next to the church. And on the bell tower, a pair of storks prepares their nest. [Music] For those who have not done the Camino de Santiago, it is difficult to explain the affection one feels for the yellow arrows. Thanks to them, strictly speaking, it is not necessary to make plans. Every day you could leave your last shelter and follow the signs that mark the way. The feeling of freedom of going through nature, crossing towns without having to have everything under control, is incomparable. Every now and then you’ll find towns with supermarkets to stock up on snacks. La Robla is one of them, at the end of the first stage or, if you stayed overnight in Cabanillas like me, it will be at the beginning of the second day. But the next two days there won’t be many options for shopping, or even where to eat. So I recommend stopping here for supplies so you can even cook something at night in the kitchen at the next hostel. And this brings me to the section I’ve called “What to bring with you on the San Salvador Trail.” If I can advise anything, it’s to bring the lightest backpack possible. You don’t even have to bring books. There is a traveling library. You take one in one town and leave it in another. As for clothing, naturally the time of year will determine what you wear. If it’s the rainy season, you mustn’t forget to bring a raincoat. But in general I recommend the concept of layers that you can remove as the temperature rises. As for underwear, it is good to bring three changes: one for the afternoon, while the other two that you will have washed at the hostel and that you used during the stage dry. It’s great to be able to change socks, especially, during the hike, since it’s when your feet sweat that blisters develop, which are the pilgrim’s kryptonite. Don’t forget your flip-flops, hat, and sleeping bag. I’ll continue with the list in a bit, as I’m arriving at Pola de Gordón. There are also hostels and a supermarket here, but be careful as it closes for the siesta. The town hall also has a lot of information, so if it’s open, I recommend visiting them. And as I begin to climb to Buiza, Ifinish the list. As for footwear, I prefer to wear sneakers, but on the Camino del Salvador, it must be said, hiking shoes are best. Try to wear shoes that you have already worn. When new, they can cause blisters. First aid supplies are available in shelters, but it never hurts to bring a basic set. Finally, a multipurpose liquid soap is a good way to lose weight. I’m now in Buiza, which is unique in that it forms part of both the Camino de San Salvador and the Camino Olvidado, a section of the Camino de Santiago that runs from Bilbao to El Bierzo, joining the French Way just before entering Galicia. Here you can meet pilgrims following this route. It wasn’t my case. Ihad the whole hostel to myself. [Music] Being able to stop for lunch or breakfast at a village cafe is great, but bringing something simple prepared from the hostel to spontaneously stop at an idyllic place to eat it is priceless to me. On the road to San Salvador, sometimes there is no other option. Today, for example, I plan to have lunch with something I made the night before when I reach the highest point along the path, at Collada del Cueto. For information on stages, altitude, variants, hostels… I recommend the website gronze.com. This is where the most up-to-date information is found, as it is the pilgrims themselves who add the information. I’ll leave the link in the video description. The sun is already rising. [Music] It’s time to put on your hat. This stage is probably the most difficult of the Camino del Salvador and the one that most requires wearing hiking shoes, especially if it has rained. You have to climb and then descend three times, slopes of up to 400 m before entering Asturias and beginning the descent towards Oviedo. There are people who do this even in winter with snow, which surely covers many of the arrows on the path. It never hurts to have the routes loaded in advance. I’ll leave links in the description for the app I use. [Music] With these fantastic landscapes, it’s time to better explain why we say that El Salvador is located in Oviedo. And it is very simple, because the Holy Shroud of Christ is kept there. What is the Holy Shroud? It appears in the Bible. St. John mentions that when St. Peter enters the empty tomb of Jesus, he finds the cloths lying around, that is, the Shroud of Turin. And folded to one side, the Holy Shroud with which Christ’s face was covered. In the 1980s, scientific tests were carried out on the Shroud of Turin, which seemed to disprove its authenticity. However, recent research shows that the tests were unreliable. There is a wealth of material available on this subject for those interested, which also explains the unique, fantastic, and even miraculous characteristics of the Shroud, such as the impossibility of recreating it even with modern tools. We are in the Tercia Valley. The sound of water accompanies us at all stages. The sound of water and birds singing in bird-like voice. Time to refill water before making the second ascent. Returning to the Holy Shroud of Oviedo, it is closely related to the Shroud of Turin, as it exhibits very similar characteristics with the type of fabric or the presence of pollen specific to Asia Minor. used in ointments for funeral rites in the era of Christ. Many other details indicate that both canvases contained the scourged body of the same person. This is the staff of Saint Savior, announcing that we are very close to reaching the highest point of the pilgrimage, the top of the Cueto pass. [Music] The Way of St. James is established because there are the relics, the remains, of the apostle St. James, Jacob Boanerges, the son of thunder, the evangelizer of Spain and consequently, of all America. But Jesus Christ ascended to heaven, his remains are not with us. So, a relic equivalent to the remains of St. James, and perhaps even greater, is the Holy Shroud. And that’s where I’m going, that’s where we go when we follow the path of the Savior. That’s the goal, to visit those relics, that presence of Christ even though Christ is always with you. But we need to make this physical pilgrimage, sometimes, to then motivate ourselves to make that other spiritual pilgrimage. So, if you’re doing the Camino de Santiago for another reason— for tourism, for enjoyment, for having a few beers every day with friends—that’s all very well, fantastic, why not? If it’s enough for the whole journey. But if you leave the little window open to see what this causes in you… the fact that you are going to visit one of the relics of Jesus Christ on earth… If you contemplate the beauty of this tradition, which is the fruit of this great master, who is much more than a master, who divided time into before and after him, who was the man of the millennium, the first millennium and the second as well, two consecutive millennia. Who does this to you? I don’t want to preach here, I just want to invite you to take advantage of this opportunity. You’re walking the path and you’re enjoying it for fun, for whatever reason… keep your heart open. And well, now it remains to go down and climb another peak again. After that other peak, Asturias will be visible. Let’s go there. [Music] It remains to be explained how the Holy Shroud ended up precisely in Oviedo. It’s not known for certain, but medieval codices mention that it was apparently kept in Jerusalem until the seventh century and was moved in a sealed ark, along with other Christian relics, first to North Africa, then to Toledo, and finally to Asturias. In the ninth century, King Alfonso II the Chaste installed it in the Holy Chamber of Oviedo Cathedral, where it remains to this day. We are now in Asturias. This was the last stronghold on the peninsula that the Muslims never conquered. So, it’s no coincidence that these sacred relics are there and that we make a pilgrimage to the place from which, protected by a firm Christian conviction, the reconquest began, which grew to become what we today call Hispanity, this cultural expanse where the sun never sets. It’s more than appropriate then that we keep the relics of Christ in the very cradle of Hispanic heritage. This is the most beautiful stage, without a doubt. The views are ‘spectacular’. The port of “Pallares,” as it is pronounced in Asturian, is on the border between the provinces of León and Asturias. Today I’m staying in the town of Pajares, which is a few kilometers further on. [Music] Yesterday’s stage was beautiful, but exhausting. The good thing is that today I will do a rather short stage. I recommend trying alternating more tiring days with less tiring ones, rather than making all days equally difficult, although this is a matter of taste. This is my first stage entirely in Asturias, also very beautiful. When you’re walking the Camino de Santiago in any of its variations, you stay in very different places every night. Every now and then, there are hostels that have a special charm and are especially recommended by pilgrims who have already completed the Camino. During this stage, I’ll have the opportunity to stay in one of those legendary hostels, and that’s my goal today: to have a relaxing day and enjoy a lovely afternoon in a special place: the hostel at the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Bendueños. To stay in the hostel network along the way, you must bring your pilgrim’s credential. You can find it in hostels, in associations of friends of the Camino, and many other places. You can do this route with the standard Camino de Santiago credential, but there is also a specific credential for the Camino de San Salvador. This is the credential I recommend if your goal is to finish in Oviedo. In addition to being a lovely souvenir, this credential allows you to visit Oviedo Cathedral, the Museum, and the Holy Chamber for free. The regular Camino de Santiago pilgrim, on the other hand, is offered only a discounted ticket. [Music] To get to Bendueños you have to leave the road and climb an extra 1.5 km. Here we go. The sanctuary was donated in 905 by the King of Asturias at that time and has had a long tradition associated with the Camino ever since. There were once five Benedictine monasteries in the surrounding area whose monks frequented it. I finally arrive in Bendueños and I feel delighted. There is a lot of calm in this area. I have met very few people in the villages during this stage. The Gothic-style church dates back to the 17th century, but was built on the remains of previous buildings. As already mentioned, the sanctuary has been here since the 10th century. And opposite the church is the novena house, which was inhabited by a hermit caretaker and where pilgrims were welcomed. Today it is the parish shelter. Tomorrow I plan to do the longest stage of all and arrive in Oviedo. And it’s hard to imagine a better place to recharge. It was a luxury to sleep at the Bendueños hostel. In addition to being a beautiful house, it is fantastically run by Sandra, who makes staying there one of the highlights of this journey. Today I’m planning to run a marathon: 42 km. I don’t recommend it, but I’ve done it before and if it’s the last stage, it means you can rest the next day. I preferred it this way, since in this last section there is a lot of urban areas. I can already see the first town, Campomanes. The good thing about leaving before dawn is that you can make a lot of progress without getting too hot. From Campomanes there is an excellent river road that allows you to easily travel at cruising speed, which for those of us with shoes over 45 is 6 km per hour. Along the way, you’ll also find the hermitage of Santa Cristina de Lena, a pre-Romanesque church from the 9th century, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It’s not open to the public that early, but you can appreciate its beauty from the outside. [Music] After Campomanes comes Pola de Lena, the third and last of the “polas” on the road. “Pola” means town in Asturian. There are hostels, supermarkets and all the comforts of the 21st century here, for those that missed them the previous two days. [Music] The sun has already risen, but this part is very easy. It’s flat. We walk along the Lena River, and the Asturian breeze that blows through the valley makes for a super refreshing walk. [Music] After Mieres is when the most demanding part will come. [Music] The good thing is that I don’t intend to get to the cathedral today. The Oviedo hostel is located right at the entrance to the historic city center. And tomorrow, fresh as a cucumber, I’ll walk the last kilometer to take a leisurely look at the San Salvador Cathedral. I’m now arriving in Mieres, a small city with beautiful parks that gave me the feeling of having a high quality of life. Here I ate and gathered my courage for the final stretch. [Music] Many prefer to spend the night in Mieres and from there make their last stop to Oviedo. It is 18 km long, with climbing and descending two not-so-demanding heights. Much of it on asphalt. They are alternative routes to the highway, with little traffic. When the sun is at its highest point it gets a little heavy. There are also almost no places to rest, unlike the previous stages. El Rollu, Aguilar, El Padrú, Casares… it happens in the hamlets. This is what the stages usually have just before entering the largest cities along the Camino. A tip: if you’re going on a long stage, it’s crucial to stay well hydrated. Even if you don’t feel thirsty, drink water from time to time. Dehydration increases the risk of tendonitis, which is the main danger when the muscle is overloaded. There is a league and a half left. Will it all be worth the effort? And go back up… [Music] [Bells] They say the grass is always greener on the other side. [Music] [Bells] [Music] All right. [Music] After so much up and down, Oviedo is now in sight. Finally, the final descent. I had to film myself going down it. I couldn’t help but joke that I almost forgot my camera. [Music] We have arrived in the big city with all its precious attributes, technology, modernity, noise. All that’s left is to get to the hostel. [Music] [Music] What a splendid day. I slept perfectly, had breakfast, and now all that’s left is to go visit El Salvador, which is what I came for. Oviedo is a beautiful city with a very cosmopolitan feel. Cradle of Hispanic heritage, capital of the Principality of Asturias. [Music] It’s time to open the cathedral soon, it’s time to visit Our Savior. As you can see, Oviedo was the capital of the kingdom of Asturias, a very important kingdom. And Alfonso II, the chaste, was the genius guided by the Holy Spirit who decided to visit the remains of the apostle Santiago. And so he established the first route, the first tradition of the path that is the Primitive Way. For this reason, many of those who follow the Camino de San Salvador sometimes continue along the Primitive Way. The road to Santiago continues here, but for me what I need now is to enter the cathedral. When you present your credential, the cathedral staff is instructed, so to speak, to tell you something that may sound a little corny, but which I really enjoyed hearing. They told me, “You have completed the Camino de San Salvador, so we, at the Oviedo Cathedral, would like to invite you on a guided tour.” And then they gave me the educational materials for the visit. They made the “Salvadorana” which is the certificate of having completed this pilgrimage. Finally, the small ninth-century chapel we call the Holy Chamber, declared a World Heritage Site, with the Holy Shroud as its main jewel. [Music] The visit has an estimated duration of one hour. It includes the Gothic-style cathedral, the Holy Chamber, and the museum, which I found magnificent. You can perfectly stay there for much longer. It’s not the purpose of this video to show all of this in detail, but don’t miss the opportunity to visit the cathedral, especially if you’ve made the trek. Well, what can I say? Everything is beautiful. A special thanks to the hospitaleros who looked after me: Flor, Ángel, Marisa, the beautiful Sandra, and finally Alberto, also very nice, here in Oviedo. The truth is that they, and all Spaniards, particularly those from the north, who cherish this tradition and spread their warmth, charm, and depth to it, help make this tradition, that of the Camino, a cultural jewel of humanity. If you haven’t done the Camino, or any of the Jacobean routes, you’re missing out. [Music]

Bitácora de viaje, información general, recomendaciones, y más, acerca del Camino de San Salvador, también llamado Camino del Salvador.

Si tienes una pregunta, déjala en los comentarios y la responderé.

ENLACES:
Sitio web para información del Camino de Santiago: http://gronze.com
Enlace directo a la sección del Camino de San Salvador: http://gronze.com/camino-salvador
App para mapas offline: maps.me
Rutas del camino en formato KML para abrir con la app: http://archive.org/details/tracks-san-salvador
Guía en pdf para móvil: http://ia600800.us.archive.org/14/items/camino-san-salvador/Camino%20San%20Salvador.pdf
Horarios de la Catedral de Oviedo: http://catedraldeoviedo.com/visita-cultural/calendario-de-acceso-anual/

Segmentos:
00:00 Introducción – DÍA 1
03:37 Momentos típicos del camino
04:46 Siguiendo flechas amarillas – DÍA 2
05:49 Qué empacar en la mochila
08:29 Subidas y bajadas – DÍA 3
10:22 Por qué se camina hacia Oviedo
12:53 Por qué hago yo este camino
15:19 Cómo llegó el Santo Sudario a Asturias
17:12 Rumbo a un Santuario – DÍA 4
18:26 La credencial del peregrino y los albergues
19:39 El Santuario de la Virgen de Bendueños
20:49 Salida de madrugada – DÍA 5
21:36 A lo largo del río Lena
24:17 Un último esfuerzo
27:26 En Oviedo – DÍA 6
28:11 El Camino Primitivo
29:05 Visita a San Salvador
30:39 Epílogo

“Quién va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y olvida al Señor.”

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