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廣州雲香酒家,創始於清朝光緒三十年(1904年),位於廣州市越秀區東華東路342號,是廣州現存最老的四家茶樓之一。它以經營傳統粵菜、龍鳳禮餅、中秋月餅而聞名,曾是廣州餐飲界的一個標誌性存在。雲香酒家與西關的榮華樓、陶陶居和蓮香樓並稱,其中榮華樓、陶陶居和蓮花樓均已被私企收購營運。

雲香酒家在經營過程中曾面臨許多挑戰。根據廣州老字號協會負責人介紹,自1998年實施國企改制後,雲香酒家轉為股份制形式,自負盈虧,部分員工分得股份,積極性有所帶動,但同時也直接面對市場的競爭。由於長期依賴舊街坊生意,導致連年虧損,這是老式酒樓普遍面臨的問題。 2015年3月,雲香酒家正式關門謝客,享年111歲。

雲香酒家的特色之一是保持粵劇曲藝等文化特色,曾是戲迷的聚腳處。每天下午曲藝團在雲香樓準點開鑼,最輝煌的時候每場觀眾過百人。然而,這項特色在2007年至2008年間因各種原因消失。

儘管面臨經營困難,雲香酒家在2011年仍被廣州公佈為第三批老字號名單之一。它的關閉,標誌著廣州餐飲老字號的式微,也牽動了產業和社會的神經。雲香酒家的歷程反映了傳統餐飲業在現代社會變遷中所面臨的挑戰和轉型的必要性。

廣州老字號協會對雲香酒家的評價主要體現在其對雲香酒家經營狀況的描述與分析。協會指出,自1998年實施國企改制後,雲香酒家轉為股份制形式,自負盈虧,部分員工分得股份,積極性有所帶動,但同時也直接面對市場的競爭。協會提到,雲香酒家長期依賴老街坊生意,導致連年虧損,這是老式酒樓普遍面臨的問題。協會也提到,雲香酒家曾面臨生存危機,一度下發遣散結業的內部通知,連租金也交不起。後來透過協會與相關部門協調,減少經營面積並出租部分區域給其他商業機構,才最終走出危機。但此後經營狀況一般,最近又陷入困難。

此外,協會也強調了雲香酒家在傳統經營上遇到的困境,包括失去拓展客源的活力,以及粵劇曲藝等文化特色的消失,這些因素都對酒家的經營產生了負面影響。

綜上所述,廣州老字號協會對雲香酒家的評價是,儘管酒家在改制後嘗試了多種經營策略以適應市場變化,但最終仍因長期依賴老街坊生意、市場競爭激烈、經營策略調整不足等原因,面臨經營困難,最終導致歇業。協會也提到了雲香酒家在文化傳承方面的貢獻,以及在面臨困境時所採取的應對措施,但這些努力未能完全扭轉其經營頹勢。

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Guangzhou Yunxiang Restaurant, founded in the 30th year of Emperor Guangxu’s reign in the Qing Dynasty (1904), is located at No. 342, Donghua East Road, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou. It is one of the four oldest teahouses in Guangzhou. It is famous for its traditional Cantonese cuisine, dragon and phoenix gift cakes, and Mid-Autumn Festival mooncakes. It was once a symbol of Guangzhou’s catering industry. Yunxiang Restaurant is known as Ronghualou, Taotaoju and Lianxianglou in Xiguan. Among them, Ronghualou, Taotaoju and Lianxianglou have been acquired and operated by private enterprises.

Yunxiang Restaurant has faced many challenges in its operation. According to the person in charge of the Guangzhou Time-honored Brands Association, since the implementation of the state-owned enterprise reform in 1998, Yunxiang Restaurant has been converted to a joint-stock system, responsible for its own profits and losses, and some employees have been allocated shares, which has boosted their enthusiasm, but at the same time they are also directly facing market competition. Due to long-term reliance on the business of old neighbors, it has suffered losses year after year, which is a common problem faced by old-style restaurants. In March 2015, Yunxiang Restaurant officially closed its doors and died at the age of 111.

One of the characteristics of Yunxiang Restaurant is that it maintains the cultural characteristics of Cantonese opera and folk art, and it was once a gathering place for opera fans. Every afternoon, the folk art troupe opened on time in Yunxianglou, and at its peak, there were more than 100 spectators per show. However, this feature disappeared for various reasons between 2007 and 2008.

Despite the operational difficulties, Yunxiang Restaurant was still announced as one of the third batch of time-honored brands in Guangzhou in 2011. Its closure marked the decline of Guangzhou’s time-honored catering brands, and also affected the industry and society. The history of Yunxiang Restaurant reflects the challenges and necessity of transformation faced by the traditional catering industry in the changes of modern society.

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