La più GRANDE SCONFITTA – EP17 S4
The day before our departure, we couldn’t miss a glimpse of the pearl of the city of Udine, overlooking Via Mercato Vecchio, whose porticoes once housed the workshops of artisans and merchants. Piazza della Libertà, known as the most beautiful Venetian-style square on the mainland and a hymn to the Serenissima, is home to architectural gems. The Loggia del Leonello is a true masterpiece of Venetian Gothic style. The arches and coffered ceiling are a triumph of timeless class and refinement. With two Moors striking the hour and the lion of St. Mark, the clock tower is the Venetian emblem, overlooking the Renaissance Loggia di San Giovanni, bordered by the statues of Hercules and Cacus, also known by the people of Udine as Florean and Venturin. It is in this square, between Via Vecchio and Via Vittorio Veneto, that the chariots gathered after the defeat of Caporetto. We climb the hill that legend has it was raised by the Huns in 552 AD to allow Attila the Hun to watch the city of Aquileia burn after his passing. A symbol of power and prestige for centuries, the seat of the Patriarch of Aquileia and the Venetian lieutenant of the Frioli region, today houses the civic museums, as well as offering breathtaking views of the city and peaceful corners that convey the characteristic discreet charm that makes Udine so liveable. It’s a true pleasure to stroll through its narrow streets, brimming with undisputed local delicacies, until you emerge onto the city’s true postcard: Piazza San Giacomo, Piazza Matteotti, Piazza delle Erbe, or Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Udine’s open-air living room, perpetually bustling and filled with colorful buildings and historic cafés. The city’s first true square, built, according to historians, in 1248, it houses the elegant and intimate Church of San Giacomo, which boasts Udine’s first clock. Finally, the medieval cathedral, with its austere façade, an Italian national monument since 1940, boasts a stunning Baroque interior, from works by Italian artistic geniuses to numerous chapels and splendid altarpieces. The cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Annunciation, houses the relics of Saints Ermacora and Fortunato, patron saints of Udine. Some say, however, that Friulian culture is best savored at the table, thanks to its many historic inns, some with centuries of tradition, where you can enjoy traditional dishes accompanied by wines from the eastern hills for an authentic experience in a city that ranked third in Italy for quality of life in 2025. Unfortunately, the time has come to leave. The thing we didn’t show you—the hardware that was removed—was this one Vania finally managed to get her hardware out of. Guys, she went from bionic woman to Wonder Woman. Awesome! Hugs to everyone. Bye guys. Thank you. Thank you guys. Say hello to Peppe and Vania. We had a wonderful three days. Welcoming, but helpful, guys, there are no words. When you’re happy, you’re happy, period. Say no more. Anyway, from near Udine we moved to Cividale del Friuli. We headed toward the center of this city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the capital of the first Lombard duchy in Italy. It was here that these barbarian people, whose origins, still partly shrouded in mystery, seem to date back to Scandinavia, the so-called Scania, settled, definitively shattering the Roman unity of the Italian peninsula, which it would only regain with the unification of Italy. Although they were conquerors, they deeply integrated their Germanic culture with the pre-existing Roman one, creating a new social, legal, and cultural model and shaping a new Italian identity . Next to the town hall, the statue of Julius Caesar, is the Duomo. The Valle area seems to have been home to one of the seats of power of Lombard Italy, the Gastalaga, today an archaeological and monumental area that includes the famous Lombard temple in the monastery of Santa Maria in Valle. Walking through its alleys, rich in ancient history, you reach the Ipeoceltico, open only on Sundays. It’s a natural cavity along the banks of the Natisone River, with various underground rooms whose original function is still unknown. It may have been a funerary site in the Celtic era, or a prison in the Celtic period. Roman or Lombard, to one of the symbols of Cividale, the Devil’s Bridge over the Natisone River, with the characteristic turquoise waters to which the rivers of this part of Italy have accustomed us. Blown up in the area during the defeat of Caporetto in an attempt to slow the advance of the imperial armies, it was rebuilt the following year by the Germans. Today, it only has a different parapet, placed to cushion any strong gusts of the Bora wind. And after the long talk about Cividale, what else can we do but eat? When everything is quiet for the moment, I’ll show you what our lunch will be. €5.80. That’s what he did. I thought it would be €1, but he cheated me. You should spend less on food. €5.80 for two, considering how expensive you are, I adjusted. Yes, but jokes aside. What’s in here? Focaccia with mushrooms, I think, cooked ham, artichokes, cheese. Then we’re moving on because there are two tiny little mignons, just for the coffee we’re going to get at the Udinese bar, right here. I noticed just now as I arrived, the specific weight is like lead, the flavor is exceptional, but you nailed the mix. Well done. Enjoy your meal, Mandi. But to top it off perfectly, a takeaway coffee, strictly on the motorcycle’s fuel tank. But here we have something else delicious. Mamma mia, because you know me well because I’m the real pig. Yes, but not both for you. Berries for you and strawberries for me. But also cocoa in the coffee. Enjoy your coffee, everyone. You’re the best. Leaving Italy right now, leaving the Frioli region, is really a pain in the ass. But the landscape is getting greener and greener. This proves that the border is very, very close and that at the same time, thanks to Beppe’s suggestion, we absolutely must pay even more attention to the limits because we’re super strict. Meanwhile, they welcome us to the Natisone valleys, Pulfero, 8 km away, the Italian-Slovenian border. The Alps rise a little higher. Needless to say, riding this road that runs along the Natisone in 25°C, clear skies, and virtually no traffic, is a spectacle on a motorcycle. 300 m, after a month in Italy, Pulfero ends. Welcome to Slovenia, where Lisonso takes the name of Socia and where one of the first towns we encounter is our own Caporetto, Cobarid in Slovenian. And this is the tree-lined avenue of Caporetto. For us Italians, the greatest defeat of the Italian army, which took place in the 12th offensive launched by the Central Powers on October 24, 1917, needs no introduction . To lighten the moment, we climb higher and head to tackle one of Slovenia’s most iconic passes. The speed limit has been raised to 90 km/h, so we can enjoy ourselves in peace. We finally catch sight of the Isonzo River. We prepare to tackle the Moistrocca Pass in Italian. For now, the speed limit is 70 km/h. Traffic is starting to get heavier. Listen to the roar of the motorcycles echoing by. Nudism on the banks of the Isonzo. It tells you it’s nudism, but it doesn’t show it to you. It’s like showing you something but not being able to touch it. What the eye doesn’t see, the heart doesn’t grieve over. No, no, in this case, the eye sees nuances we’ve rarely seen around the world. What a spectacular road this is. Slovenia has 47 km of access to the sea. Yet the area that includes Kobarid, Triglav National Park, and therefore the Versice Pass, is called Primorska in Slovenian, meaning “coast,” because the area, despite not being on the sea, is affected by the Adriatic currents thanks to the sea’s mitigation. 9.7 km to the pass. Here begin the 50 hairpin bends, 26 on one side and 24 on the other , and the inevitable smell of brakes, undoubtedly caused by the cars coming down. Thanks , Box, how do you get on? It’s definitely not a road for speed freaks because the hairpin bends are very tight. But it’s another road where you can learn how to navigate hairpin bends. The altitude is also listed under the hairpin bend number. Some are flat like this one, others steeper. Thanks, Swiss number one. I really appreciate those who pull aside to let motorcycles pass. Because we on motorcycles absolutely have priority, but it’s also true that when you ride such a heavy bike on hairpin bends, being able to ride the hairpin smoothly, without an obstacle in front, thus letting the bike slide, becomes objectively easier. Here we are at the 35th. However, I noticed that those with Slovenian license plates have a harder time letting the bikes pass. Almost 2 km in, the last stretch is on perfect asphalt. Big number 8. Here we have the number three, even with steel side cases. Number one. Okay, the last bit. The breathtaking beauty is starting to reveal itself fully. The air has become crisp. 17th hour and there at the top should be the pass. 26th hairpin bend, we’re almost there. And we’ve got this pass out of the way too. We climb a little more. We reach the highest point, which should be right here. Persic m, Moistrocca Pass done. We begin the descent with the rusca Zesta, literally the Russian road composed this time. 24 hairpin bends. The descent or ascent from Cranscagora to the VSIC Pass was the road built by Russian prisoners of war during World War I. Even the two hairpin bends are paved. The asphalt isn’t the best. We’ll see as we go down. It’s definitely not a pass to be taken at high speeds because it’s in really bad condition. Furthermore, all the hairpin bends we’ve tackled so far, five of them, are paved. The landscape, if anything, from this other side is even more breathtaking than the other. Incredible, incredible. At this point it almost feels like a motorcycle rally. In the second section, it starts to become slightly more rideable, with the asphalt definitely better. We’ve reached the end. Last hairpin bend passed. Cransgagora. Pleasant to ride through in the summer. Meanwhile, the smell of fish. Very long bike paths, but above all, safe and well-made. A small detour to the right to go to Lake Bled. 4.8 km from the main road that would have taken us to Ljubljana, and as we get closer, the traffic increases dramatically. It’s going to be a very, very touristy place. You expect a crowded place, you know it’s going to be touristy. I said it better. This should be the lake. We’ve left the center of the town of Bled on the right. We’re going straight. A beautiful green avenue, the smell of fries, so if you’re not hungry, it makes you want to stop at one of the many little restaurants along the side of the road. Here’s a Versailles-style hotel. Nice, bro. Look up. Beautiful, poor guy, the owner of the castle. Here’s the little island with the church in the center. Have you seen any interesting thongs? Not yet, but they’ll come. We tried to go around the lake, even though the road was blocked, but there was a guy who said to us, “Please, go because you’re on a motorbike.” So from this angle, we’ll have the light in our favor. We’re actually on the other side, so if you’re coming this way, you should know there’s a bike path that circles the lake. We decided not to stay overnight here because the prices are quite high , and we’ll head a little further south, a beautiful place but not touristy, but hyper-urban. So, goodbye Bled, which for some reason reminds me a bit of Dracula. It makes me think of Blood, even though it’s Blad. We found a location 43 km from here with slightly more reasonable prices, so we continue our descent towards the Balkans, just like the Sava River does, flowing all the way to Serbia before flowing into the Danube and continuing its journey towards the Black Sea. Descending from Bled on the 411, a Super road—mark it because the speed limit is 90 km/h—there’s very little traffic, immersed in the forest, and the curves, as you can see, are quite wide. And back among the mountains and hills, we’ve reached our destination. Once here, Erasmus took refuge, a sort of bandit baron who followed the example of Robin Hood, stealing from the rich to give to the poor. The system of passages inside the caves is 14 km long. The love go all for love going for love going for love for love you get it right but don’t get me wrong say what you got say what you got say go like a satellite just go like Say what you got say what you got take to the take for hope and Go long.
Usciamo dall’Italia dopo aver percorso molti dei passi più belli al mondo, da percorrere in moto e non solo…
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37 Comments
Ho perso la premiere purtroppo 😢 però mi rincuora vedere che Sara ha mangiato bene che ha avuto anche lei la sua parte di dolce 😂😂😂 un abbraccio grande ragazzi bellissimo video come tutti i vostri! ♥️♥️♥️♥️
Come sempre i luoghi che ci fate vedere sono bellissimi e ci sorprendono sempre. Non sapevo che Udine fosse così bella ❤❤❤❤
Ciao! da Brasile!!!!
Sempre bello vedere i vostri video, appuntamento fisso della domenica sera.
Siete inavvicinabili, inimitabili, irrangiungibili, imbattibili.
Bellissimo video, bravissima Sara !!!Renditene conto Francesco !!!!! Grazie ragazzi, un abbraccio forte forte da Ines e Giuseppe ♥♥
Siete emozionanti ❤
Frank due morsi ha colpito ancora😂.
Il passo della Moistrocca l'ho fatto due anni fa nel verso opposto; il versante di Kranjska Gora coi tornanti lastricati è più impegnativo e più bello di quello di Trenta e ci sono dei panorami maestosi e bellissimi. Il castello di Predjama molto pittoresco… Meno aulica la fine di Erasmo di Lueg secondo quanto narra la leggenda 😂
Ragazzi….ma dove ci portateeeeeee. GRAZIE. CIAO PROF CIAO PILOTA.BUONI KM
Top…. Molto Bravi…
Io sono di Udine e abito nelle valli del Natisone vicino Cividale quindi questo video mi ha riempito d’orgoglio ❤ super felice che vi sia piaciuta la nostra meravigliosa terra ❤ la Slovenia in moto é altrettanto stupenda e abitando al confine ho la fortuna di variare tra Italia Austria e Friuli 😅✌🏼🔝like colleghi!
Bella udine ,ho fatto il militare ne 1983 a Remanzacco che sta tra Udine e cividale e in libera uscita andavamo sempre a Udine
Buongiorno ragazzi, sempre più belli i vostri video e sempre più emozionante con quanta cura Sara spiega ad ogni angolo la storia. Un abbraccio forte forte e buone feste!!!❤
Indubbiamente i posti che ci fate vedere hanno una loro bellezza, ma narrati dalla Sara ❤ e commentati da Francesco è tutta un'altra storia. Date anima a ogni video, ad ogni vostra esperienza e trasmettete una voglia incredibile di partire, viaggiare ed esplorare ogni angolo del mondo ❤🏍❤️
Grazie ragazzi ❤️
Un enorme abbraccio ❤
Buona strada ❤e buona vita ❤
Che dire … non ho più aggettivi per esprimere ciò che riuscite a dare con i vostri viaggi, mix di motociclismo e cultura. Grazie di cuore con un po’ di sana invidia 😂. Ciao Roberto
Ciao ragazzi,Udine è veramente stupenda,la prof Sara sempre impeccabile nel raccontare ogni posto che visitate. Viaggiare con voi è sempre stupendo!!!!!!!!La Sorellona sempre il top!!!!!!Siete bravissimi e bellissimi,un abbraccio forte forte a entrambi
Sara documentarista!
Itinerario meraviglioso!!!
Sono stato in Slovenia in moto ma solo di passaggio per poi raggiungere la Croazia… dopo aver visto il vostro video, credo proprio che Moistrocca e Bled saranno parte del mio prossimo viaggio nei Balcani 😁
Io dico sempre e lo ripeto ancora: dovete iniziare ad organizzare tours guidati in giro per l'Europa🤩
Un abbraccio ragazzi!!!
A mio gusto, i paesaggi più belli della stagione finora, se così si può dire. Udine è incantevole… L'Italia è vasta in termini di cose e luoghi da vedere. Saluti da Brasile!
Ragà.. grande video..il Friuli e meraviglioso x noi viaggiatori in moto….💯🙋
Passo della Maistrocca fatto 2 anni fa' in senso opposto al vostro, ricordo i tornanti in pavé fatti in salita con incrocio da brividi con un pullman, paesaggi spettacolari e acque cristalline di un colore da fare impallidire gli smeraldi
Solo una parola…WOW. Anche per il castello di Predjama che ho visto almeno cinque volte…soprattutto la grotta che si dice possa essere in grado di ospitare due volta la basilica di San Pietro
Che posti meravigliosi.Ma ….guarda dove ci avete portato!!!😂 Bellissimo, bravi come sempre💪👋
Anche se non commentiamo sempre ci stiamo gustando in modo totale i vostri meravigliosi video. Sono spettacolari e le spiegazioni di Sara li rendono ancora più interessanti. Un bravo anche a Francesco che ha una guida davvero coinvolgente e ci dà l'impressione di essere veramente lì con voi. Bravi. ❤❤❤❤
Anche a Udine siete passati un piacere sapere che siete stati anche qua bei posti
Bella ragazzi , a Cividale ci sono stato per un anno vestito di verde, però è stato un peccato non aver provato la Gubana!!! ✌✌
Ragazzi complimenti davvero. Mi raccomando: Friuli con l'accento sulla U.
Bellissimo video! Una cosa! che specchietti monti?? Grazie!!
Bellissimo video complimenti
Ciao ragazzi nella discesa dal passo vi siete perso la chiesa russa veramente bella che merita una visita
ho fatto quei tornanti lastricati anni fa con fondo bagnato, un vero thriller….Sara sei meglio (in tutti i sensi) di Licia Colò😇
Piacevolissima scoperta il passo in Slovenia con paesaggio favoloso……il laghetto…….ma prima di affrontare il viaggio bisognava nutrirsi……….ed ecco che compare focacciona super imbottita…….caffe ultra dolce…..e ovviamente dolcetto…..beeene 😂😂😂😂😂……..video ed audio sempre al top……ogni tanto ci va un po' di drone che regala immagini bellissime……ed ora…via per la prossima avventura vi mando un grande abbraccio e come sempre PER ASPERA AD ASTRA…………….
Bhe, i servizi su Udine e Cividale sono degni di RAI 1. complimenti a Sara e grazie a te Francesco per portarci nei tuoi viaggi.
oramai i vostri video sono un SICUREZZA
Bravi
Video come sempre superlativo. Raga ma io devo essermi perso qualcosa x strada: che fine ha fatto la Mitica TENERONA? Un abbraccione e buona vita sempre. E dato il periodo dell anno, buon Natale
allora comincio il commento rivolgendomi direttamente a Sara. Sai l'amore che provo per la terra friulana forse per la metà del sangue che corre dentro di me, forse perchè da bambino adolescente e ancora oggi con la maggior età avanzata è la mia comfort zone, ma la tua descrizione di Udine e Cividale merita una citazione a parte ed una stand ovation. Chapeau!!! Detto ciò ti dico subito che il mio scritto è premessa per una tiratina di orecchie dovuta al fatto che essendo TU una bella penna sarebbe opportuno ritornare su carta penna e calamaio per non farci vedere ma per leggere anche di emozioni e sensazioni. Trova il tempo. un abbraccio a tutti e 2 VVB