LA PORTA Dell’INFERNO – EP16 S4

LA PORTA Dell’INFERNO – EP16 S4

Today we can say, welcome to Friuli, whose name derives from Forum Yuli, a distinctly Roman name given by Julius Caesar in the mid-first century BC. We’re in the province of Udine, again led by local guide Beppe Cristofoletto, alone, without his Vania, who just completed the healing process a week ago, having the last irons removed from her leg, a result of the unpleasant accident we had together in Argentina. Let’s say she’s gone from bionic woman to humanoid woman, so go home and bepi goes around acting like a rooster. This is the reality of the facts. We’re in the Martignacco area, in the province of Udine. See? They’re making white smoke bombs. Smoke from the Tricolor Arrows rehearsals. Where’s the headquarters? Looking from this balcony. You can see all the way to the Punta del Venezia Giulia. We are in Fagagna, Friuli Venezia Giulia, two areas that have always been historically separate, merged after the end of the Second World War, with the establishment of the Autonomous Region Statute in 1963. As soon as we enter the municipality of San Daniele, we find ourselves in the small square of San Daniele, famous above all for the production of prosciutto crudo DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). Meanwhile, we witness the siren of Southern Italy. I often notice that border areas are more strongly connected, probably due to a patriotic feeling, hence the Italian flags on many places of interest, such as this square and the church. The Cathedral of San Daniele, like the sacred church in Piedmont we left behind, is dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel. Built in the 10th century, it was damaged in 1944 by Allied bombing. Not spared by the Gemona earthquake of 1976, it houses one of the largest organs in the entire region. Adjacent, the Guarneriana Library, founded by Guarnerio d’Artegna and established in 1466, is the oldest library in Friuli. It is one of Europe’s first public libraries and houses approximately 12,000 ancient volumes. The village is internationally renowned for the production of the eponymous prosciutto, the fruit of a millennia-old tradition and a unique microclimate created by the cold winds blowing from the Carnic Alps and the warmer breezes rising from the Adriatic Sea, which allow for excellent curing. Since 1996, San Daniele prosciutto has been recognized by the European Union as a product with a protected designation of origin, distinguishing itself by its exclusive and strictly defined area of ​​origin. Processing must take place exclusively within the municipality. San Daniele del Friuli has just under 5,000 inhabitants . A beautiful tree-lined avenue. Tarvisio is 80 km away. The Friulian language has been thoroughly revitalized, featuring on every road sign. In the Carnia Valleys, 44,000 people still actively speak a language that traces its roots back to the 10th century. It all began in 1150. The historical documents of the Sofumbergo papers mark the first written testimony of this Romance language, one of the best documented in Italy. We are in Forgaria nel Friuli. Lake Cornino. The lake’s water temperature seems to remain constant: 9°C in winter, 11°C in summer. Considered relatively recent in its formation, what is most astonishing is the color of its waters. Behind it is Mount Prat, whose importance is also due to the presence of a colony of griffon vultures. Having left the lake with temperatures of 27°C, we are now truly climbing in altitude. We will park along the Tagliamento River, and one thing I want to emphasize, at least for us from the Marche, is that the water and the Tagliamento River itself are a stunning blue, certainly thanks to the very clear riverbed. I’ll add the road that runs alongside the river. Top. We continue towards Lake Cavazzo, so you can follow us on the map. We are in Ovaro. It’s on this side that we decided to climb towards a pass that is one of the sacred temples of cycling, with a gradient exceeding 20%. Ravascletto Zuncolan. Specifically, in some places, we even reach a 28% gradient. So be prepared, because if you make me do a wheelie on the bike, I’ll leave you here. And the weight, the weight. The years pass, the weight increases. The years pass for me too, having to ride with you behind. Oh, Work on the dome. It’s always the Milan Cortina, eh? The work you encounter in Italy is always for Milan Cortina 2026. Monte Zon. Let’s get on the bike, guys, and hold on tight. No, go up a mountain. Here you have to go down, not up. Beppe told me this morning that the last hairpin bends absolutely must be taken in first gear. Ah, the road is tiny. The famous sign. Abandon all hope, ye who enter here, a quote from Dante in his inferno. Here you go on the painful climb, here you go into eternal pain. And here, many congratulations to the cyclists who tackle these climbs. Those who know how to suffer can dare anything. I totally agree. Beppe, what do you have to tell us? These three months, bike dicetro. You’ve understood that Beppe is not a cyclist. Let’s go. It’s our first time, I’m very curious, as always, let’s be careful, but at the same time let’s have fun. Big sister goes up in third gear in chalans. It’s already a bit steeper here. It’s first, but it could have been done in second. Let’s remove the controls, see if the bike wheelies. Now we’ll do it with one wheel. Let’s do it in second. Okay, hold on. Go. Let’s do this in second too. We can do it. We can do it. He did it. Beppe’s climb is beautiful, it looks like a bus, but for now we don’t have the precipice next to us. Continuous tributes to the great cyclists because this is a route crossed by the Giro d’Italia and we are riding it in the same direction as the Giro d’Italia. Let’s also put it in third gear. The big boxer Peppe is always farsighted. Give me a wide berth, come on. Anyway, compared to the passes we did in Piedmont, this one is almost wide for now. This one is very narrow, but it’s flat. No. Then with a racing bike, for those who don’t know racing bikes themselves, if they don’t have the right gear for these climbs, it becomes really complicated. Extremely tough, extremely tough. Incredible climbs. Anyway, for now, it’s relatively easy to do on a motorbike, even with a lead behind. Another hairpin bend, but the asphalt is in excellent condition, so if they’re loose, I’ll check the elevation gain, but especially the length. There’s access back here for vehicles longer than 6 meters , and this is very interesting when choosing a four-wheeled vehicle. This time, it’s wide. At this point, there’s a bit of a respite because he’s coming by bike. In our case, we let the boxer cool down a bit. This really gives you an idea of ​​how much we’ve climbed and what kind of climbs the cyclists we passed are facing. Temperature dropped 21°C. So, Beppe, the worst is yet to come. Yes, we still have the last few hairpin bends . But where’s the maximum gradient? Here, here. Anyway, it wasn’t bad here either. So far, I’ve always been in second gear. Always second. I was in first when we crossed paths. Instead, we need to shift into first up here. Let’s see. [ __ ] the tunnel, however, almost looks like the Saracen tunnel on the jaffro, except that here it’s cemented and obviously there’s no puddle of water inside. But spectacular. We can do it here in second gear. We made it with the friction thread, but up here we’ll be forced to shift into first gear to let the cyclist pass. We made it. Come on, come on. Boxerone. And we made it here too. These pointless challenges. They ride bikes, they have much more important challenges. Myself, since he has his bike hanging on the wall inside the garage, his challenge was to do it in second gear. We reached the top, Monte Zonan, 1750 m above sea level. Spectacular, spectacular. Now, having seen it then, let’s go eat at a mountain hut. You can, I don’t know if you can see it, but the view of the peaks. We continue our descent toward Sutrio, not toward Malga, because we’re going to eat, and in any case, for those who’ve never done it, the surface is really good. You can feel the gradient because we’re in second gear and you feel the bike can’t slow down. You can also feel it by glancing at the surrounding peaks. Look, they have to redo it at this point; the asphalt is a patchy sheep. Now they’ll redo it for… Milan Cortina. Come on, they’re doing it all again for Milan Cortina. Here, Beppe points out this mountain hut and we gladly accept. But it’s closed. No, the desperation isn’t actually closed, but they probably don’t cook anymore. I mean, Beppe just told me they make tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms. Beppe, I’ll put you down, you’ve made me hungry before we leave. But it’s also true that it’s 2:30, we don’t give a damn. We need to eat here, we need to go and collect them again. This hairpin bend isn’t bad either, it’s practically a sharp corner. So on the other side it’s a bit of a struggle because the bike tends to wheelie, while on this side, if you have a partner with big tits, you can take advantage of it to slow down significantly. In my case, you understand well that I’m using engine braking, so I let the bike slide. We don’t have that, I mean, in my case, tits on anyone who saw it. Exactly. Then there’s the urgency of going to eat. What kind of brakes, tits, I don’t even have to eat. The desperation here, the desperation is yours, not mine. I sense a hint of it here. It’s not mine, I don’t know whose it is. Even ski lifts and snow cannons. There’s no food here either. Beppe, I see him wandering around looking for a place to try the local dishes. Oh, we found something here. We see some motorcyclists, so we park next door, and finally Beppe recommended this. Meatballs with mashed potatoes. We don’t know what’s local about them, but he recommended it. He says this is beef made from local cows. And maybe I have the most typical thing, because the risotto has speck, there are also amaretti biscuits, and I’ll try the zucchini. Yellow squash, not zucchini. Beautiful table. Now let’s get some knitting. We set off again from the Baita al Pignao. Just got off the Zoncolan. This time Beppe wants to overdo it. Our intention is to ride one of the highest roads in the entire Frioli region, towards Montecrostis, in the municipality of Ravascletto. So today we’ll be riding a short stretch of dirt road, but as Beppe told us, it’s a very easy dirt road. Wow, these curves are beautiful. Now let’s enjoy the descent from Zon Colan, which from this side is much, much easier to ride, meaning it’s more fun on a motorbike, but we still need to be extremely careful. The descent from this side, motorcycling-wise, gets a 9. What a spectacle! We’re in the valley, we’ve reached the crossroads because I see a panoramic road to the peaks here. Here, towards Ravascletto. Come Yans is our destination. Here’s a panoramic view of the peaks. We’re already starting, I’m enjoying it. Let’s see how far the asphalt goes. Here it is a bit like going back to Piedmont with the width of the road. Obviously, the spectacle begins a bit. Come on, in some places the asphalt is even new and here nada de nada, but we are approaching the Piedmont roads where there is a cliff on the side. First info to share: it’s not a short one as it still climbs. The slope gives you an idea of ​​the altitude reached so far. It’s quite scary from here, in the sense that if you suffer from vertigo you need to be careful, but up to now the road is passable even with a CBR900, just to give you a motorcycle example, but in some places the cliff becomes so steep that it’s best not to cross anyone. We’re starting to be on top of the world. That’s where the name “panoramic view of the peaks” comes from. We have a 360° view. We’ve just started the dirt road section. We’re already relatively high. 1875 m for this point where the dirt road practically begins . Needless to say, it’s truly an extraordinary view, but above all thanks to Beppe, of course, where we took you. What a spectacle! The road surface is very compact for now, the gravel is small, so you can go super calmly. However, at this point it is forbidden to look down and it is advisable to walk on the right and keep both hands on the handlebars. Yes, because it is practically a rather impressive gorge. Never back Yeah. Donkeys in sight. What a spectacle! Take me far away before my mind spins and I am more derailed deril just All theainbow, be careful in some places because it’s a bit rougher. But look at the sense of adventure it gives off ahead. It’s beautiful. The play of shadows at this time of afternoon is spectacular. So many sheep and goats. This is probably the mountain hut that Beppe, whom we hadn’t met yet, remembered. The dirt road is finished. It’s a bit Scottish here. Less dressed, eh? They’re almost in costume compared to the Scottish sheep. They’re a bit more liberated, which we don’t mind, by the way. We haven’t found out why this road was built. If any of you in the area know, please help us and write in the comments. Anyway, I passed through 10 years ago, I wasn’t too excited about it. Oh, no? No. So in addition to letting us know, you can leave a like if you like our content, but it’s very important if we deserve it, otherwise tell us to go to hell. To hell in the frivano anus, that’s probably what they’ll say. We’re going downhill. Anyway, if you want to come, the descent, like the climb, is long, and the road width, both at the entrance and exit, at least from our perspective, is similar. After all, 35 km is quite a long distance to cover with these hairpin bends and this road surface. Sharp peaks and very high temperatures for this early September day. The first villages are starting to appear. One detail I want to share with Beppe. I said we’re taking secondary, tertiary roads. With today’s outing, I think he took us a bit too literally, so I’m giving Beppe a 10. Actually, let’s give it a 9.5 because 10 is never a given. Plus, we have another tour tomorrow, so we need to have room for improvement. Giving top marks is just a way of standing on our laurels; otherwise, it would have deserved it, like it used to be at school. We’re in Come Yans, outside of villages that, beyond the stunning nature, are the wild card that Italy always knows how to play. Holy cow. And after the panoramic view of the peaks, here we are in the traffic of Udine to round out the evening and then 132 Empanada Argentina for the evening. We also stopped at Nonno Carletto’s artisanal ice cream shop. We’ll tell you why later. Back on the road to Beppe and Vania’s house, with an evening that caps off a crazy day. Temperature at 25°C. Just showered, my face haggard because you saw today’s ride. Actually, you might think we’re in the province of Udine, but no, because you see the impanadas. And where are we if you see the impanadas? We’re actually in Martignacco, with Beppe and Vania in front of you, and Vania is starting to share the empanadas we ordered. I’m hungry; it’s almost 8:30 here. I’ve been waiting all day because these guys left on their motorcycles. They left this morning at 11:00 and are back now. I’m still working because I finally got rid of the hardware store after a year and a half. I’m forced to stay home, so guys, let me eat. Making fish bread. Fri and spec. It’s an impannata with a Fulani twist. 16 creamed mushrooms. I’ll try the fumicata. This is mine because we have the index here. These are Argentinians, because the wife is Argentinian. They make these empanadas, but they put a number on them and then give you this sheet of paper, just for smart people like us, eh? Why can’t you remember it, kid? Not only that, they live in Friuli now, so it requires a bit of discipline. And while they’re making the ice cream here, we promised, we’ll show you the one from the artisanal ice cream shop. On one side, ice cream with plant-based milk, on the other, classic ice cream. This is how we used to eat ice cream when we were kids. Ania, you just had surgery, so you can’t eat ice cream. Eat ice cream. So Beppe, who rode about 300 km on his motorbike, deserves it. Go on, Beppe, try it and let us know. Top. Guys, you can’t participate. I’m sorry, I’m sorry. There are four of us. Goodnight. The flight of the condors, right above us. No, what a condor, love. Ah, they’re called the condors. going for love for loving the heart the being heart the being heart for the being heart for the for the beating heart

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