Dijon et au-delà : perles de Bourgogne-Franche-Comté – Les villages de nos régions – MG

Discovering France
means wandering its cobbled streets, climbing to the top of its most beautiful towers,
tasting its specialties, climbing its trails or sailing on its rivers. It also means meeting its inhabitants,
those who, every day, maintain and strive
to bring our heritage to life. Discovering our country
means immersing yourself in the villages of our regions. Let’s head
to Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, the union of two neighboring regions,
Burgundy and Franche-Comté. They are now linked around
Dijon, the largest city in this new region. For this trip, we will travel from
west to east, from Burgundy with its most typical villages,
to Franche-Comté, with its grandiose landscapes like in the Jura. So, we will leave from Noyers-sur-Seurin, a medieval town, friendly and lively. Then we will go to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain,
the famous village of Bonbon à l’Ami. Before stopping at the water, an old
wine-growing town with incredible charm. We will then head towards the Jura,
to discover a wood, the village of Louis Pasteur,
also renowned for its vineyards. And Baume-les-Messieurs,
a peaceful village, surrounded by caves and waterfalls. Let’s first set off on the roads of Burgundy for an unmissable first stop. Here we are in Noyers-sur-Seurin,
30 km from Ausserre. With its river bearing the pretty name
of Seurin, Noyers is a haven of peace set in a bucolic setting. But make no mistake,
Noyers is also a very lively village. Especially when it’s market day. Let’s follow Myriam, a regular here. Good morning. That’s what I love about the market,
tasting jams and black pudding. And to have this in the center of Noyers
is extraordinary. Here, as everywhere in Burgundy,
gastronomy has an important place. Take advantage of your visit to taste
the good local products. What good things could I buy? So, the small pollack asparagus.
Yeah. It’s wireless.
Great. A little boot?
Yes. The business ethos
is in the DNA of the Nusserians, as the inhabitants are called. For several centuries, this village,
ideally located on the Royal Road between Dijon and Paris, prospered. We were above all a
wine-growing and agricultural country. We can therefore find several streets
in Noyers, with the Place de la Petite Étape au Vin, the Rue des Vignerons. There were about
125 winegrowers in Noyers. It was truly a stronghold
and therefore an essential place for trade, for transit to Paris. Today, Noyers offers the rare picture
of an extremely well-preserved city. As you stroll through its alleys,
you will be able to contemplate and appreciate its rich past. Then embark on the Serein,
where again, from the water, you can observe the traces
of this ancient stronghold. The castle of Noyers
was born from the will of a man, the bishop of Ausserre, Huld de Noyers,
who was the first important figure, in a way, in the village. In any case, it is the
richest and most powerful person who has the castle built. And at the beginning of the 13th century,
it was the largest fortress in medieval Burgundy. It is one of the largest castles in France. Dismantled at the end of the Wars
of Religion, only a few ruins remain today. Fortunately, the village
has retained some very beautiful assets. There are almost
52 half-timbered houses in the inventory. We still have almost all
of the fortification towers. We have a lot of elements
that remain in the village. So many elements that make
directors happy. Many historical films
have been shot in the city. One of the last, The Queen
and the Cardinal, with Philippe Torreton. Besides cinema, Noyers and Thimbour are
popular with artists and especially craftsmen. Their workshops all have a street-front location,
ideal for sharing their expertise. Hello Richard. Hello Myriam.
How are you ? How are you. I like I like the place,
I like the village. I fell in love with it
about 15 years ago when I came. It’s a nice working environment and we
‘re much better off here than in the city. Happy artisans and locals
very attached to their local customs. Every year, the village organizes a large
tournament based around the game of bowling. An ancestral tradition, as
the former mayor of the village explains to Myriam. Great. A local lord, here, the one from Noyers,
would have thrown a ball, it would have rolled to the end, you see. And then, along its entire route, everyone
who lived there was freed. There are no more taxes. So. There we can go.
It’s about to begin. This is heavy stuff.
This is heavy stuff. Every year, around July 14,
come and join the event. You will definitely fall back into childhood. Speaking of childhood, the next village
should bring back memories for me. A Proust Madeleine with a sweet
aniseed scent, perhaps. Welcome to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain,
a town famous for generations for its Lannis candy. We are 60 km from Dijon. Antoinette has lived in Flavigny for 25 years. She knows everyone in this
town of barely 300 inhabitants. There’s still a very beautiful view there. It’s a place a little out of this world,
off the beaten track. Even in ancient times,
there was no main road leading to Flavigny. And this place was a place
of defense or a place of retreat. A village with a reputation as an
impregnable city due to the ingenuity of its inhabitants. These alleys are a defensive device,
a passive military device. When the enemy arrived in too great a
number at a point, they were allowed to enter the alleys. These small alleys only allow the
passage of one man-at-arms at a time. And you just had to wait for him with a good
puzzle and you could stand up to a troop. That’s for the
village’s combative past. But Flavigny is especially known for its
sweets, for its famous anise-flavored candies that are eaten as far away as China. If you want to discover this
original recipe dating back to 719, put on your hairnet and
explore the production workshops. A must-see visit to Flavigny. And if the delicious smell of anise has
whetted your appetite, take a few steps to this
rather special farmhouse inn. A place run by farmers’ wives
from the village who feel isolated on their farm, have decided to join forces
to cook and sell their products. It’s fresh, it’s not complicated. This is how we should
eat every day. I’m a farmer, but I’m here to
help out a little. I’ll pass the time. And see the world. Today, the women’s barn,
as it is known here, has been transformed into a
welcoming canteen that delights both locals and tourists. It’s really great. We don’t have that in England. It was the farmers’ wives
who prepared everything. I think it’s really great.
Gorgeous. Authenticity is everywhere in Flavigny. It is therefore normal that the village
is attracted by directors. And that’s how this local
ended up in the chocolate movie, alongside Johnny Depp
and Juliette Binoche. This facade was the chocolate shop
where Juliette and her daughter lived and displayed
the chocolates in the window. She was good, Juliette Binoche. She was kind. I remember kissing her
where the tables are. That’s why he’s a celebrity. That’s why he’s not going to miss it. Flavigny, a star village
with a well-deserved reputation. Less well-known than Flavigny,
but just as captivating, let’s explore the water. And yes, that’s how we pronounce the
name of this charming village in Franche-Comté. We are 45 km from Besançon. To tell us about it, Mickaël,
a restaurateur who literally fell in love with the area. I discovered this village
completely by chance. We walk in a valley,
it’s green, it’s beautiful. And there, we discover this village. There is a real story,
beautiful stones, beautiful colors. We have the river flowing,
we see cherry trees completely in bloom on the heights. So let’s not be afraid
of romance and travel the water. A city that is peaceful today, but
which has nevertheless experienced difficult times, particularly
between two communities. Those of the winegrowers,
installed on the hillside, and those of the blacksmiths, who had
taken up residence on the banks of the river. Oddly enough, these two communities did
not mix, except at church. Hello Pierre.
Hi Michael. So Michael, you see in this church,
well, we find all the life of the village, all the history of the village. So two communities,
one which worked in the vineyard, all these winegrowers,
we find it in the form of a stained glass window, Saint-Vernier, a small guillot in his hand. And you can clearly see the vineyards
next to Saint-Vernier. And on the other side,
Saint-Éloi, the patron saint of blacksmiths, 500 workers worked
for the forges. You also have it in stained glass,
with the anvil, the hammer, of course. Today, as you can see
while strolling through the streets, only the upper part of the village, Vigneron, is
decorated with religious symbols on the facades. You see, I was talking to you
earlier about the faith of the Vignerons. Yes. These religious symbols, well,
they simply expected God to protect their harvest. So, they had a strong faith, certainly,
but one could still say a little self-interested. Hi Christophe.
Hi Michael. Today there are no more vineyards or forges. The water has converted to another
religion, that of trout fishermen. These are truly the highlights
of our region, as we are fortunate to have a
completely native variety of trout. A zebra-striped native, caught
using a very specific technique. You too, when you come,
can try frame fishing, a method originating in Switzerland, whose
border is less than 50 km away. So, frame fishing
actually replaces the reel. And that’s what makes… You have new sensations,
because you have direct contact with the fish, because you have the line
directly between your fingers. And then… Tac.
Oh, that’s it Noémie, I have a touch. Hop, and there you have it. Well, she’s very beautiful. Oh my, a beautiful little trout. Well, listen, I’ll give it to you.
Yeah, well, thank you very much. Christopher?
Well, you’re welcome. Obviously, it’s
hard to resist tasting the local specialty,
the famous blue trout. The secret is to get your
trout, to kill it ten minutes before you start preparing it. We then prepare a vegetable broth
which we cool slightly before immersing the animal in it. So. And there, a real magic trick is
happening in the pan. The trout turns completely blue. Well, ladies and gentlemen,
trout with flowers. Ah, it’s unavoidable. I love it. You see, I’m licking my lips. After lunch,
head to the Gorges de la Loue, to the source of the river,
made famous by the many paintings of the painter Gustave Courbet. Well, there you have it.
How beautiful it is. Here, what is incredible here,
we are really in the paintings painted by Courbet. Nature has not changed
for hundreds of years. That’s what’s really nice,
actually, when you’re in the water, is to tell yourself that it’s really
the starting point for lots of things. We are alive when we are in the region. It’s fun. Let’s extend the pleasure, precisely,
by going to discover other inspiring landscapes in the neighboring department. It will take you just over an hour
to reach the wine capital of the Jura, the village of Arbois. A pride known for its
ochre stone arcades and winegrowers’ houses. We are 50 km from Besançon. To begin your visit to this village,
take a little height. From the surrounding hillsides, you will have
a breathtaking view of Arbois. Stéphane and winemaker in the commune. There, it is one of the most beautiful
places to contemplate Arbois. Here we see the two bell towers,
we see the castle, we see this yellow stone which is
the characteristic of Arbois, this yellow stone which is made of vine stones. Truly, this typical
Franche-Comté village is what we like. And then, what’s more,
look how beautiful it is. The old people always said:
We made vineyards, they look like gardens. This little corner, for us,
is our little garden. Let’s leave this little garden
to reach the heart of the city. Hi Philippe.
Hi Stéphane. How are you ?
How are the vines doing? It’s not bad, we didn’t freeze. Spring has arrived. I’m
doing well. First stop, the Capucins bridge,
on the edge of the Cuisance, the river which crosses the village. Well, here, therefore,
we are at the foot of one of the Cuisance waterfalls, since the river
makes several cascades in the city. And it’s a really nice place because you can
see these old corbelled houses that are reflected in the water. In the Middle Ages, the river
served as a moat for a fort. An almost impregnable fort. We are at the foot of the Gloriette Tower. It was a defensive element of the ramparts. Arbois was surrounded by ramparts. Arbois has been the seat of four
kings of France. When war was brewing,
the windows were bricked up, and in peacetime, the windows were opened. It was Louis XIV who finally succeeded
in forcing the Arboisiens to give in in 1674. The town’s other defensive tower
was the church bell tower. Built in the 12th century, it is dedicated
to Saint-Just, the patron saint of the city. This stained glass window represents the biou. It is an ancestral ceremony in Arbois,
around the 18th century. This is the time when winegrowers offer
the first fruits of the harvest to the patron saint of the parish. The people of Arbois would rather miss Christmas in
Arbois, but they never miss any biou. The biou is once a year, on
the first Sunday of September. The opportunity to discover yellow wine,
the king of Jura wines. But if you miss the event,
you can always visit one of the village’s cellars. We arrive in the cellars,
in the central cellar, since there are three cellars which are 70
meters long, 10 meters wide. And here is a famous barrel. Here, I’ll leave you.
I’ll let you feel it. Come on, thanks. It’s not bad.
Come on, what is it? 2010.
2010. 2010?
2010, yes. Yellow wine is first and foremost a grape variety,
Savagnin, which will age without being topped up for more than six years,
unlike other wines whose barrels are regularly filled
to keep air out. Savagnin, at the beginning,
the barrel is completely filled. The level will gradually go down. A veil of yeast will be created on the surface of the wine
which protects it, transforms it and gives it all
its very typical yellow wine aromas . And then there you have it, at the end of aging
, there will be about a third of evaporation. At this rate, any other
grape variety would turn sour. But here, in Arbois, the magic happens. This is something that is
still completely a mystery. There is the Savagnin education, the
Jura soil and all this magic with the atmosphere, with the micro-organisms
that are in the cellars. This is what will allow
the yellow wine to evolve and obtain this completely unique taste,
this typicity, this power. What makes the Arbois vineyard so rich
is also its natural environment, that of the Jura foothills. Take a stroll along the trails
around the village, to this waterfall, a favorite relaxation spot for locals. It is one of the most beautiful corners of Arbois. We spent hours and hours there. This is the place where the people of Arbois come to
bathe when it is very hot. Because the water is
still very, very cold. It comes straight from the mountain. But it really is a superb place. Look at the atmosphere it creates. There’s one of them who’s going to end up
in there, that’s for sure. After this recreational break,
we recommend a taster stop. Indeed, on the central square of Arbois,
you will find the workshop of Édouard Hirsinger, one of the best
French chocolatiers from a long line of Arbois pastry chefs. In the kitchen, chef
Marie Chocolat uses local produce. So here, we prepare the nougatine
with flaked hazelnuts. In the Jura spirit, we didn’t take
almonds, we took hazelnuts. And there, the spirula that we will
sprinkle while he mixes. We can already smell there,
when he spreads this smell, a little of dried hay, it comes from the spirula. The chef’s touch is this
dandelion mousse which completes the recipe. So this is the
final phase of manufacturing. This machine will cover
everything we make in chocolate. Well, listen, we’re going to go and taste
here in the little family museum. Go ahead, Steph.
Come on. We’re going to taste.
Quality control. Great. There are a lot of aromas,
it’s two different textures, it’s really very good. As a souvenir,
treat yourself to some of these excellent chocolates that have made the
village’s reputation for over a century. Although
Arbois has always been associated with wine and chocolate, it is also closely linked to a famous person,
the scientist Louis Pasteur, the famous inventor of the rabies vaccine. It was here that he grew up
in this family home, his father’s former tannery,
now open to visitors. Inside, we discover
the laboratory that he set up there at the end of his life. As part of these experiments,
Pasteur also undertook studies in 1863 to save the
diseased Arbois vine. These results will be the starting point
for all future discoveries. As incredible as it may seem,
it is by saving the vine that he will succeed in curing man. And all these experiments on wine,
all this research with his vines, with the winegrowers of Arbois, all of that
was done here, it was done in this laboratory. And for Arbois, it is
an extraordinary source of pride. Indeed, Arbois has reason to be proud
of its beautiful and rich heritage. Like it, other villages in the surrounding area
have many advantages. Nearby, for example,
there is another Jura site that stands out. Here we are in Baume-les-Messieurs,
a peaceful village of 200 souls located 80 kilometers from Besançon. In Baume-les-Messieurs, you can
above all enjoy an exceptional location. The village is nestled on the edge
of three green valleys. Marcel and his granddaughter Marie
were both born in Baume. They know everything about their village. So they know everything about
Baume’s iconic song, Les Messieurs. The three bells composed
by Jean Villard and performed by Édith Piaf in 1945. It was the composer of the song who
was walking in the village cemetery and heard the bells ringing. And the special thing,
when you listen carefully here, is that you can hear them ring three times. We hear that of the small church,
that of the abbey, and then that of Grange-sur-Baume. And so, he heard these bells ringing. So the bells ring, ring. And that’s how
the lyrics came. Deep in the valley,
far from the paths, far from humans. A bell rings, rings. Detroit, the one that rings the loudest in the village are the abbey bells. It was founded by
Benedictine monks in 909. It is the most
remarkable building in Baume. On the ground, there are around forty tombs,
all containing the bodies of the region’s nobles. And in the heart, not to be missed,
the jewel of this abbey. A 16th century altarpiece
covered in gold leaf. Each panel, in fact,
tells a story of different events in the life of Christ. And so, each step is either painted
or sculpted by the characters. If you enjoy the atmosphere of this
abbey, you can even sleep there. In this 11th-century building,
four cozy guest rooms have been fitted out. Hard green.
No, that’s a forehand. No, that’s Hard-green, right there. This is the best of hard green. In the meantime, you might come across Marcel
and his friends in the middle of a game of bowling. Oh my!
Great, then. This bowling game is
typically from the Jura. Look, there’s definitely a good atmosphere.
Then there is the audience. Because you know, many
people who come to Baume really come for the site. And when we come to see the people who come
to see the abbey, they stop to see us playing king. You can even try your luck. The people of Baume will be happy
to introduce you to their favorite game. Before exploring the other leisure activities
the village has to offer, don’t forget to stop by this
pretty terrace adjacent to the abbey. When you wake up and have this
view in the morning, like that, it’s nice. That’s what my father always said,
it’s the most beautiful village in France. After enjoying the view,
explore the surrounding area, including the
30 million-year-old Baume Caves. We enter the center
of the earth and then we discover. So every time it’s a
new discovery and it’s wonderful. These are places that are
very conducive to legends. Legends that the guides will
not fail to tell you if you come between April and September. An unforgettable excursion
for lovers of the underground world. And the highlight of the show is
just outside the caves. 200 meters below,
the river emerges from underground and transforms into an impressive
waterfall called Cascade des Tufs. A complete change of scenery. It is in this idyllic setting that our
trip to Burgundy Franche-Comté ends. A region that will appeal to lovers
of gastronomy and traditions linked to the land. If you are more into green tourism,
you will not be disappointed either. There is no shortage of walks in Burgundy or Franche-Comté
. In short, a destination that you
can enjoy in many ways.

Bourgogne-Franche-Comté se raconte par ses pierres et ses rivières : ruelles pavées, tours médiévales, vignobles et reculées jurassiennes.

Pour découvrir les merveilles des plus belles régions de France, c’est ici – Abonnez-vous 👉 http://bit.ly/3zjR2Vj 🙏

Cap sur Noyers-sur-Serein, cité de maisons à pans de bois et remparts, décor naturel de tournages. À Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, ruelles défensives, anis emblématique et savoir-faire paysan se dévoilent, avec en filigrane les souvenirs de cinéma. Cap ensuite sur les gorges de la Loue, paysages peints par Courbet, puis Arbois, capitale des vins du Jura : arcades ocres, Biou de septembre, vin jaune au long élevage et mémoire de Louis Pasteur. Final à Baume-les-Messieurs : abbaye bénédictine, grottes millénaires et Cascade des Tufs, écrin de verdure aux trois vallées. Entre gastronomie, traditions et grands paysages, un voyage au plus près d’un patrimoine vivant.

Réalisé par Élodie BOUTIT.
© MORGANE PRODUCTION

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