De Bangkok à Angkor : Sur les traces des rois bâtisseurs d’Asie | Trésors du Patrimoine
Come on, folks. Right? Oh, yeah. Pack your things, baby. Now, I’ll put on your shoes. Let’s take a break. I’ll turn it loose. Come for a ride. I want to take you out. Yeah. Come for a ride. I want to take you out. Yeah. Ordination is an
important act for all Thais. I find
this philosophy of life to be quite exemplary in Thailand. At 127 meters high, it is the
tallest Buddhist building in the world. That’s fun. It’s a lot of fun taking care
of a big elephant. During the battle,
the boys will be like demigods. It all began with a promise,
the one made by Napoleon III to come to Cambodia on an official visit. This is the heart of the
French administrative district. It’s true that on dry land,
everything is simpler. The way the pleats on the skirt are made is
directly inspired by the statues of the hapsaras carved on the walls
of the temples of Ancorvate and Banteisere. This is where the gods,
the gods, and the kings lived. When I look over there,
it’s the subway at 6 o’clock. Our journey begins here,
at the Palace of Versailles. This new episode of the Grand Tour will
take us to Asia, to both Thailand and Cambodia, following in the footsteps of two
fascinating characters who lived in the 19th century. The first was called Ramakatz,
he was a king, the king of Siam, which is present-day Thailand,
and the second was a Frenchman, Henri Mouaut, an explorer,
who went to discover Cambodia, and in particular the Encore site. So, the reason I wanted to start this new
episode of the Grand Tour here at the Palace of Versailles
is that this place houses a painting that perfectly illustrates the beginning
of this story, the beginning of this adventure. This painting is in storage,
a place off-limits to the public, but I was given the keys to access it.
Come with me. So, here is this painting
, it’s magnificent. It is the work of Jean-Léon Jérôme
and it was commissioned, commissioned by Napoleon III. The action takes place on June 27, 1861. We are at the Château de Fontainebleau,
in the great hall of Basel, and it represents a delegation
of ambassadors received by Napoleon III and his wife, Empress Eugénie. We also see one of the ambassadors
handing over a cup in which there is a small gold box and inside
this box, a letter from the King of Siam. So this delegation, as you can see,
is advancing on its knees and elbows. And this is not a sign of submission,
but a sign of respect. It’s a tradition in the Kingdom of Siam. This delegation, at that moment,
greatly impressed and intrigued all the French people attending
this reception. So much so that the painter asked
the famous photographer of the time, Nadar, to immortalize the Siamese delegation in order
to study the morphology, size, way of dressing and
behavior of these strange visitors. And this is to represent them as
faithfully as possible on this canvas. Come on, at the time, in the 19th century,
we have very little information about this kingdom of Siam and its king Ramakad. I suggest we go and
discover this country, this kingdom and this
extraordinary character, Ramakad; for this, let’s head to Bangkok. Bangkok, a megalopolis
of approximately 10 million people, is eight years old. It has been
the capital of Thailand since 1782. The city was built on a
marshy area around the Tchao Praya river. The klongs, these canals lined with houses
on stilts, bear witness to the face of the city in the time of Ramacat. Located on the eastern bank of the Chao Praya, the French residence. It was on this land that the consul sent
by Napoleon III settled in 1858. A few years later,
Siam would donate the house and land to France. The Tchao Pria River,
which means Lord of the Waters in size, has long been the only
route for trade with foreign countries. Imagine that at the end of the 19th
century, the riverbanks were lined with small wooden shacks. There were no houses built,
except of course the Palais-Royal, the temples or the embassies
like this one, the French embassy where I am. Moreover, at the time,
embassies had chosen to locate themselves on these banks, quite simply
for reasons of convenience. It was easier for ambassadors
to go directly to the Palais-Royal by way of the river. That’s exactly what we’re going to do.
Come with me. From the Gulf of Thailand, the Tchao Praya River flows through Bangkok
and meanders north for over 350 kilometers. It has long been considered
a natural bulwark that protected the city from Burmese threats. We arrive at the Grand Palace,
the residence of Ramakad. The jewel of the Grand Palace is Wat Prakeo,
this vast architectural complex that makes up the Buddhist temple. The presence of a temple within the
palace grounds is an ancient tradition. It dates back to the 13th century. At the heart of the temple is the sanctuary
dedicated to the Emerald Buddha. This
66-centimeter-high jade statue is the emblem of the Chakri dynasty. King Ramakad, heir to this dynasty
, ascended the throne in 1851. He was then 47 years old. His ambition was never
to assume the royal office. At 20 years old, the young Prince Moncoute had only one dream: to become a monk. Since that time, the scenery has changed, but Ramakattre also experienced his early mornings, barefoot,
in the streets of Bangkok, in search of the day’s food. In Thailand, the population has
a duty to feed the monks. We are at Wat Bowon,
in the historic center of Bangkok. Wat Bowon is one of the most
famous Buddhist temples in the city. This morning, the temple is buzzing with activity. He is preparing to receive
new disciples. Natakrit is preparing to become a monk. May this training lead you
to success and prosperity without obstacles, free from all
enemies and evil beings. I wish you longevity,
happiness and good health. When parents cut their child’s hair, it is a way of giving them their blessing. They bless him as a good omen. Ordination is an important act for all Thais. It is considered a duty that all
Thai men must perform at least once in their lives. First step, the novice’s hair is completely shaved. A peculiarity of Buddhism in Thailand is that it also involves shaving the eyebrows. Not strong, and then, for a meter. Aged 31, Natakrit wished to be
initiated into Buddhism to honor his parents. He is still wearing the white outfit
of the novices, but in a few moments he will receive the saffron robe of the monks,
a moment of great solemnity. Caramontouille, right up to your can, just like me. See your can again. Dude, watch out, watch out, watch out. Dude, watch out, watch out. Dude, watch out, watch out, watch out. Before receiving ordination,
the initiate is considered ignorant, because he has not yet had
soul training. Receiving ordination,
according to the Buddhist religion, means studying and training one’s soul. I feel good. I was able to do something good. I have fulfilled my duty to my
parents and I feel a little nervous. Finally comes the moment for Nathakrit to don the saffron robe, a modest tunic, a
symbol of detachment and humility. Thai men can wear the
monk’s robe for as long as they choose. Natakrit, for his part, chose to spend
four weeks at Wat Bowon. This is a royal temple and it is an honor
to be able to ordain my son here himself. Our king, King Ramaneuf,
also received ordination here. In 1836, Ramakattre became
the first abbot of Wat Bowon. This statue pays tribute to him. Ramattre will remain here until his
accession to the throne of Thailand. He profoundly reformed
the teaching of Buddhism. Before him, the transmission of
sacred texts was largely oral. The new abbot decided to have
the first religious books in Thailand printed. At the time,
Thailand did not have a printing press. That is why King Ramakatt,
who was then head of Wat Bowon, brought a machine from
Great Britain via Singapore. There were two machines. One of them was
installed here at Wat Bowon. It is considered to be the first
printing press of the Thai people. Thanks to King Ramakattre,
everyone can now study the original writings of Buddhism and thus
find their own interpretation. King Ramakad’s first legacy
is not to believe. That is to say, not believing just anything. You have to study,
research and forge your own experience. That’s what training the soul is all about. King Ramakadre thus created
a modern vision of Buddhism. Just yesterday,
Nata Krid was living comfortably within a wealthy family. This morning, he too must, barefoot,
leave behind his food for the day. I feel strange,
but I am happy to follow the rules of conduct taught
by the Buddhist religion. It’s like rejecting all the conveniences
of modern life in order to free oneself from them and, in a way,
put an end to one’s suffering. Ramattre will spend 27 years of his life
in the robes of a Buddhist monk. Over the years,
he travelled throughout Thailand and went to meet its people. We arrive in Nakhom Patum one hour from Bangkok. Today, Event: the city is crossed by an uninterrupted stream of monks. They number 1,200 and have been walking for days
across several provinces to reach Bangkok. Their visit inspires great devotion. To facilitate their movement,
the faithful unroll a carpet of marigold petals under their bare feet, a
symbol of prosperity. The temple of Nacombatum is famous
for its spectacular chedi. A chedi is a cone-shaped monument
whose center houses relics. Throughout his life, Ramakattre
remained very close to Buddhism. He often comes here on pilgrimage
even though he is still a monk. Then he discovers a building
that is not in that state. It was in ruins at the time,
overgrown by jungle. And as soon as he is crowned king,
Ramakattre will order that this building be restored. The work will take 17 years
to achieve this magnificent result. At 127 meters high,
the Chedi completely dominates the city of Naa;
it is the tallest Buddhist building in the world. This mural is magnificent. It is very interesting because it
tells the whole story of the building. Here we realize that the chedi
covers two other structures, a bit like the principle of Russian dolls. The first structure is believed to have
housed a relic of Buddha. The second structure dates
from the 11th century. She is originally from Kummer. As for the current Chedi,
it is the work of Ramakattra. Prapatam Chedi is one of the
most frequented and revered temples in Thailand. At each entrance to the temple, one is
greeted by statues of Buddha. This is an opportunity for the faithful to make
offerings, either by placing flowers
or by placing thin gold leaves which are delicately and
meticulously placed on the Buddha statues. It is an ancient practice that is
supposed to attract the favor of the deities. Thousands of gold leaves are
used every day in Thailand. Many are made
in this Bangkok workshop. Jintana Pasada’s family has been working
here for about forty years. This is a strip of raw pressed gold
that is cut into small squares. This gives us approximately 1,500 pieces. We cannot stick this strip
directly, firstly because it is too expensive and secondly
because it is too thick to stick. Therefore, the hammering stage is necessary
to obtain very thin gold leaves. Before that, the sequins are assembled
to form small packets about ten centimeters thick. They are then
entrusted to the gold beater. Kouan has been a gold beater
for almost 30 years. He places the package in a wooden frame
which he will continuously strike for about six hours. If you stop striking, the gold will solidify. You have to hammer continuously and
every five minutes you have to turn the package over. You can only rest after two
hours, five minutes of break and then you start again. According to the texts,
the Buddha’s body had thirty-two
distinctive marks at his birth. Among them, a golden and luminous skin. That is why tradition dictates
that Buddha statues be covered with gold leaf. Night falls on Bangkok. It reveals the different facets
of the city where modernity and ancestral traditions constantly coexist. Bangkok never stops and everyone chooses their own pace.
Look up, everybody. Welcome to Magnature’s. We are at Maggie Choose,
a downtown club that the French composer, Laurent Couson, knows
well as he performs there regularly. For him, Bangkok has been a
home port for about ten years. An endless source of inspiration. But this is not the Bangkok of the night
that Laurent Couson wants to show me. I met him the next day in one of
Bangkok’s most modern districts. The reason I’ve arranged to meet you here is
because this is the very center of Bangkok. So this is Sat’an Road. It is a major avenue that runs
from the center of Bangkok to the river. It’s a bit like Wall Street here,
with all the big office buildings. This is the business and financial center.
This is the Business Centre. Those are large, modern buildings
that are all very, very recent. But what I wanted to show you
is that Bangkok is truly a city
of contrasts, because in the middle of all these ultra-modern skyscrapers,
there is still traditional Bangkok. Which has been preserved. Which has been preserved and is
right at the heart of these buildings. It’s the neighborhood, it was…
The same neighborhood, yes. All along this stretch,
there are several similar little streets. And so this is the neighborhood
you wanted to show me. I wanted to show you. Are these alleyways like this,
with small wooden buildings , common
in Bangkok or is it isolated? Is this a neighborhood?
No, they’re everywhere. That’s the real Bangkok. So, the people who live here,
they were offered fortunes to leave their homes. Yes, because I was wondering,
these neighborhoods might disappear, right? Bangkok is a blend of modernity
and tradition. So, I think the people who live
here are deeply rooted in the value of their history,
their ancestors, their traditions. I don’t think so, in any case,
I pray that they will not give in to the temptation of property developers. Here we have the coexistence of two worlds,
you know. That’s what I was saying earlier, finance, those who
own, those who have money. And for those here who are content with little
, is this cohabitation going well? It’s going more than well and I find
this philosophy of life quite exemplary in Thailand. It comes largely from Buddhism. Jealousy does not exist. Envying your neighbor or wanting to steal what you
don’t have brings bad luck to your karma and therefore to your next life. So, there’s no one who’s going to
envy, be jealous, or try. We accept our condition. I don’t know of many examples
in the world of 60-story luxury towers
that would stand alongside what we could almost call slums here
without any problem. There have never been any problems with
security or violence between these two worlds. It’s a certain philosophy of life. Laurent, you were talking about the towers. Here’s one.
Yes yes. That’s impressive.
She is impressive. What is she?
It is 100 meters away. Yes, yes, yes, it’s right next door. That’s the local supermarket. Lorànt, is it common to see
the king’s portrait in the city and even in the country?
Yes, yes, the king is everywhere. The king is
Buda’s representative in Thailand. So, we display his portrait everywhere
and we also make offerings and prayers to him as we do for Buda. Especially since King Bumibol,
who is also the oldest reigning monarch, is even older than the Queen
of England. He is 86 years old now and has been a
very, very, very popular king throughout his life. And he’s also a jazz musician. A musician? He is an excellent saxophone player. He has recorded several albums,
which are actually quite good. I like to leave one morning and wander off
into the streets without knowing where it will lead me. And going out to meet people,
I see amazing landscapes and we are always surprised. You see this kind of
motley mix that’s on every street corner. We resume our journey following in the footsteps of Ramacat. Férité, Amidst history
and archaeology, Ramakad focuses on the main
historical sites of the kingdom, particularly the two ancient capitals of Thailand. When he arrives here in Sukotai, Ramakad is still a monk. He was almost 30 years old at the time. Sukotai means in Sanskrit:
the dawn of happiness. Founded in the 13th century, Sukotai is
considered the first Thai kingdom. The excavations carried out here by Ama IV
will reveal this exceptional stele on which appears
the oldest example of Thai writing. This is for you. Sukotai would be the capital of the Kingdom
of Siam for nearly 200 years, before ceding its status to the city of Ayutaya. Ramah IV came here to Ayutaya often. Ayutaya is the symbol,
the emblem of the wealth and power of the Kingdom of Siam. In fact, it was
the capital for four centuries. Then, at the end of the 18th century,
after a 15-month siege, the Burmese took the city
and literally sacked it. The Royal Palace and this temple are,
in fact, almost completely destroyed. And to prove,
to impose their domination, the Burmese will decapitate all
the Buddha statues they find in their path. This is probably the source of
Ayutaya’s most astonishing curiosity: the Buddha head caught
in the roots of a tree. Legend has it that it was left
on the ground, abandoned by the Burmese. You see, the one that, of course,
gave it a second life. At
its peak, Ayutaya La Brea was a true
economic and commercial center, a gateway between East and West. At that time, between the 14th and 18th
centuries, the city had nearly 400 temples. At the heart of the city is a skull,
that is to say an enclosure where the royal elephants were kept. Each year,
the king would come to choose the finest specimens, notably to
train them for war. In
1996, an enthusiast invested his entire fortune
in creating an elephant sanctuary. Today, this shelter houses around
one hundred animals. About ten years ago,
the news was talking about an elephant extinction. That’s why we
created this place. We bring elephants from all over
Thailand to provide them with shelter, work, and food. Ten years ago, you could see
elephants wandering the streets. It was very dangerous. They could be hit by a
car or cause accidents. In this center, we care for
elephants. We look after them. When someone wants to
part with an elephant, we adopt it. Elephants are trained to participate
in parades, shows or even films, such as in 2004, in
Oliver Stone’s feature film, Alexander. This year,
they are involved in a historical show presented in the heart
of the ruins of Ayutaya. It’s time for the final
touches before the show. I paint it so that it is white,
to represent a warrior. That’s so that he’ll be like he was
in our show before. Until the beginning of the 20th century,
the white elephant was a measured figure on the national flag. The white elephant is
the symbol of the homeland. The king owns white elephants. The sovereign who possesses the most
elephants, the white element, reflects the power of the country over which he reigns. The more he has, the more extensive his power. The white elephant is rare; you rarely see them. But if a king possesses several,
it means that his prestige is great. The king now owns
ten white elephants. In Thailand, he is also the only one who
can own this animal breeder.
The mythical Cral. For the elephants of Cral,
the time has come to set off. Each elephant is under the responsibility
of a mahout, who is in charge of taking care of it on a daily basis. An almost symbiotic relationship
between man and animal. That’s fun. It’s a lot of fun taking care
of a big elephant. And he has a good character.
I like it. The show retraces the epic story of Ayutaya. 33 sovereigns succeeded one another at the head
of the kingdom, engaged in a succession of wars. The most famous of these pits
King Nareswan against a Burmese prince. It ends with a
duel on the back of an elephant. Having won the fight, Nare Swan is today one of the
most revered historical figures in Thailand. After the fall of Ayutaya,
Bangkok was chosen to be the new capital of the Kingdom of Siam. Wat Pho is one of the first Buddhist temples built during this period. These pagodas were built
in honor of the first four kings of the Chacri dynasty, to
which Amakattre belonged. The true masterpiece of Watpau is located in this building. The Bois de Pau owes its fame
to the presence of this monumental Buddha statue. It is entirely
covered in gold leaf. It measures 46 meters long and 15 meters
high, and it is the largest representation of a
reclining Buddha here in Thailand. A reclining Buddha
signifies that Buddha is about to die and attain nirvana. So, in Buddhism, nirvana
is the total liberation from desires, you know, those everyday desires
that make you dissatisfied. And when you are totally detached
from these feelings, freed from these desires, you can access
nirvana like Buddha. The Buddha’s feet
are inlaid with mother-of-pearl. According to Thai tradition, these 108 signs
are auspicious symbols. A short walk from the Buddha, within the Watpo compound,
is the Center for the Preservation of Teachings Related to Science,
Ancient Arts, Traditional Medicine, and Massage. They date from the mid-19th century. Reconstructed from texts that survived
the destruction of Ayutaya or from oral traditions,
this knowledge has been engraved in stone. They still form the basis of
traditional medical teachings today. This group of students came
to Thailand to attend training at the
Watpoh traditional massage school. These drawings are about herbs
and here, about massage points. Each point
represents a symptom and each line links it to a work written here. For example, to treat muscle aches,
this is the point. But how long does it take
to learn all that? I’ve been studying for 17 years
and I’m still learning. This school is a benchmark
in traditional Thai massage. People come from all over the world to learn
these ancestral techniques. In this class, Swiss, Israeli, and Brazilian students came to take part in a one-month training course.
Gently, gently. People often
take medication. But Thais treat aches,
strains or minor sprains with massages. I think
Thai massage is the best. The masseur’s entire concentration
must be focused at their fingertips. The way we look at the person
being massaged or the sick person should be the same way we look at a
member of our family, our brothers and sisters. You have to put your heart into it. The masseur can then feel this
heart through the masseur’s fingers. Traditional Thai massage alternates
between postures, movements, and specific technical gestures. It takes almost two hours
to complete it in its entirety. I feel free. My body is free,
stretched, very stretched indeed. It’s very beautiful. While Watpo is one of the best-
preserved temples in Thailand, not all are as well maintained. We are heading to the outskirts
of the capital, to visit a much less visited temple. Wat Prassat, the temple, is very damaged. However, it
only dates back to the beginning of the 19th century. In 2011, major floods
severely damaged the building. Today, a team of restorers,
led by Robert Bougain-Dubourg, is visiting the site. They have come to assess the damage. This temple contained a veritable treasure. On the walls, these frescoes constitute
the first example of mural painting in Thailand. It’s a pleasure because
we can see the face. Let’s leave the details, just
a few small parts. But here, for example, it’s
not complete, but we know that before,
it was a magnificent sale. And we keep some
small portions of the gold. And now we lose everything. For me, this temple is
one of the veterans of art. That is to say, in fact,
these are less important temples that practically no one comes to visit
, and as a result, no attention is paid to them, no care is taken of them. And yet, they are
fundamental to Thai culture. The restorer is worried about the overall condition of the frescoes
. But in Thailand,
the approach to heritage conservation is very
different from ours. Here, within the framework of Buddhism,
it’s not a big deal to die because you will be reborn. The work is dead, it’s a normal cycle. And from that moment on,
if we have to do something, we will do a new painting,
so we will give a new birth to the decoration of this temple. There is no awareness
of heritage through size. That’s really why it’s
such a big problem. Robert Bougain-Dubourg created this
restoration workshop in the heart of Bangkok. He begins work on this portrait
of King Ramakadre, a painting from the royal collections,
since Robert, the neighbor from the town, is the official restorer of the palace. On the
other hand, he has 14 staff members who have personally trained
in restoration techniques. So, one of the problems
here is that general education means that the teacher
is always right. Since I happen to be the master
, I know I’m talking a lot of nonsense. And so, it’s difficult to get him to
ask questions and for me to answer without getting angry. So now, since we’ve been working for
10 years, they don’t hesitate to ask me and they tell me: Oh,
Robert, that doesn’t work. Could we do this or that? So, a trust was established
which, little by little, led them to become owners
of the techniques and works on which they work. And there, I put in place
14 sizes that believe in it. They are the ones who will take over. Thai art goes far beyond
painting or architecture. The art of war gave birth
to Muay Thai, Thai boxing. For centuries,
the greatest boxers were selected from across the country
to join, as the supreme honor, the king’s personal guard. Today, this art has become an extremely popular sport. And surprisingly, its best
ambassadors are French. This is Antoine Pinto and his brother Victor. Between them, they hold titles
as world champions, European champions and the best
Muay Thai boxers in Thailand. Originally from the Pyrenees,
they arrived here with their parents 12 years ago. 50, 100 meters from the house where we
lived at the beginning, there was a small boxing camp,
a small gym and we saw the kids running around
in front of the house every day. And in fact, it taught us something; we
followed along just to make friends. We learned to count
by doing sets of abdominal exercises. We learned the language little
by little, having fun in the gym, practicing a bit,
kicking, talking with friends. And that’s how we
got into boxing. For several weeks,
Antoine and Victor have been preparing for an exceptional event:
the grand final of the Thai fight. It takes place in the center of Bangkok,
opposite the Royal Palace. The competition is broadcast live
on television, because in Thailand, boxing is the national sport. Serge, the father and coach of Antoine and Victor, ensures that traditions are respected. It starts with the mang kron,
the headband that boxers must wear on their heads until the start of the fights. The Mons Crosnes were
blessed by the monks. Therefore, it is obligatory to place them
above the head of each of the boxers and the public, because anything that
has been blessed Buddhistly cannot be trampled upon or
passed over by Buddha. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome Ongduad Bito. Before the fight, and still in
keeping with tradition, Antoine will bow before the king. The king’s daughter,
Princess Hubol Ratana, came in person to attend the final. Each
encounter is preceded by a ritual dance accompanied by
traditional music. The boxers perform what is
called the wai kru. Wai, anti, means thanks
and kru, means teacher. Simply, we want to thank all
the people who have enabled the boxers to reach this level. And in a way, not doing so
would be a great mistake. Boxing is tough, tough, tough. Don’t take risks,
but box the tough guy. You are the master, you are the king,
nobody can do anything to you. You’re the champion. Muay Thai is a skillful blend of sport and spirituality. The Ring is considered
a sacred space. Indeed, this space is
also the sacred space of boxing. During the fighting period, there are a few boys who will be like demigods. The moment they step out of the ring,
they will come back as men like any other, but
not just men like any other. They will have to spread the good word
everywhere and they will have to constantly prove that they have
earned this title of demigod. The winner is… Frantz Antu, finished! Before leaving Bangkok for Cambodia,
we return one last time to the Royal Palace.
Come on. It was here that Ramacatre, the
first Siamese monarch to open himself to the West, would receive
a certain Henry Mouhau. Botanist and naturalist
Henry Mouhault, like many explorers or travel writers of
the time, dreamed of discovering Southeast Asia. He will make Bangkok his
base camp for travelling around the region. Henry Mouhault left Bangkok in
1858 for Cambodia. There, he will discover, or rediscover,
I should say, the temples of Angkor. He doesn’t know it, but he is the one who will
reveal this archaeological treasure to the Western world . So, we too will leave Bangkok,
we will leave the Palais-Royal and Ramakad, to follow Henri Mouhault
on his expedition. You’ll see, the trip is magnificent.
Come with me. Udong is
Enri Mouhau’s first stop in Cambodia. At that time,
it was a mysterious and unknown territory. In his travel journals,
the French explorer recounts his encounters with the local population,
peasants, missionaries, and the king. He records everything he learns,
especially how to live and survive in this often hostile environment. I don’t like this steering wheel. No, no. No.
No. No. No. When Henri Mouaut arrived in Odong,
he discovered this landscape. A flat landscape, made up of rice paddies,
with three hills in the distance. The most important one is nicknamed
the Hill of Royal Fortunes. It takes its name from the fact that in the 16th
century, a Cambodian king who was waging war against the Thais
placed the national treasure here. So, Henri Mouaut was the first
Frenchman to discover Houdong, and since then, this scenery has not changed. Udong is a
must-see place in Cambodia. Kut’ch. At the top of this hill, stupas
recall the grandeur of the kings. Where it therefore occupies a special place
in the hearts of Cambodians, it has indeed become a major place of pilgrimage. And at the top of this hill
of royal fortune, one finds a number of stupas. Stupas
are temples that house the ashes of several Cambodian kings. And this one, which is the most important,
houses some of the ashes of Buddha. Stupas are the
most revered monuments in Buddhism. They symbolize the link between the earth
and the realm of the gods. Udong was the capital of Cambodia
for almost two and a half centuries. When the city established itself
as the capital of the kingdom in the 17th century, silver and copper work
became a local specialty. Sopat Ute is one of the very last
to perpetuate this tradition of finely crafted objects. I am currently making
a replica of King Javarman’s headdress. It’s a commission for a show. Sopat Ute has been working on this
piece for over three months. I started to take an interest
in my favorite art at the age of 12. Then, around the age of 16,
it became my job. This profession is very dear to me. It’s a noble job
that also allows me to make a living. I am proud to be able to perpetuate this art. An art renowned for its finesse,
not only in Cambodia, but also throughout the world. Through his objects,
Sopat and his family revive the grandeur of Khmer civilization. Following in the footsteps of Henri Mouhau,
we now head further south, towards Phnom Penh,
about forty kilometers from Udong. The city is built
at the confluence of four rivers. The French explorer will make a short stopover there. According to Henri Mouhault,
Phnom Penh at the time was only a small town of barely 10,000 inhabitants. Today, more than one and a half million
people live in the capital of Cambodia. When Henri Mouhau arrived in Phnom Penh,
he described an extremely noisy and anarchic city. In fact, he named it
the Grand Bazaar of Cambodia. And today,
not much has changed. You can hear it,
the streets are still just as noisy. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city,
here is Wat Phnom. This temple pays homage to the one who is said to have
founded Phnom Penh, Don Penh, the grandmother Penh, as they say here. Legend has it that she discovered
Buddha statues on the banks of the Mekong and decided to build this sanctuary
in the 14th century to house them. The townspeople come here to
pray, to gain the favor of the gods and have their future foretold
by Laktia, the sanctuary’s seer. If the wish is granted, custom requires that one return to make
an offering to the founder of the city. Seven years after Henri Mouhau’s visit
to Phnom Penh, the construction of the Royal Palace was completed. It stands right in the heart of the city. This is where the King of Cambodia lives. The city’s development began in 1860, when King Noreodrome I decided
to move from Udong to Phnom Penh. Noreodrome I, that’s the one we
see on that white horse. There is a persistent legend
about the history of this sculpture. It all began with a promise,
made by Napoleon III, to come to Cambodia on an official visit. This visit will never take place,
cannot take place. And to apologize, he reportedly
sent his own bronze statue. Noreodrome I is vexed,
hurt in his pride, and decides to decapitate the statue
and place his head in place of that of Napoleon III. And so today
we find a king of Cambodia dressed as a French emperor, holding
a bicorn hat in his right hand. While this legend is attested to at the Palais-Royal
, for historians, the reality is quite different. This statue is believed to have been created
after the death of Napoleon III. This would, in fact, be a tribute
from the Cambodian king to the French emperor. Today, the country is governed
by a constitutional monarchy. The same dynasty has been in power
for over a century and a half. One of its members particularly
marked the history of his country. This is King Noredom Sianuk. Born in 1922 in Phnom Penh,
Noredom Sianuk was only 19 years old when the governor of French Indochina
placed him on the throne of Cambodia. His people called him the father king,
and he himself called the Cambodians his children. His life was intimately linked
to the history of his country. He has indeed accompanied all
the upheavals, all the torments that Cambodia has gone through,
from independence to civil war, through the golden age,
that is to say the 50s, 60s, and of course, the terrible episode of Ekmer Rouge. We see him here, received on an official visit
to Paris by General de Gaulle, who himself is accompanied by André Malraux. Even today, the portrait of the king,
Noreodrome Sianoût, can be found on all the walls
inside buildings, whether public or private,
and of course, here at the Royal Palace, a gallery has been dedicated to him. It was under Noreodrome I, which was
signed in 1863, that the French protectorate was established. N’ampenn then takes off. Jean-Michel Filippi has been a professor of linguistics here in Phnom Penh for ten years. Jean-Michel Philippi takes us
to the French quarter where a few buildings still stand,
witnesses to the protectorate period. Well, we are here on the
Post Office beach, the heart of the French administrative district,
which, more than a square, is actually a street with buildings
arranged in a very original way. For the architect Daniel Fabré,
a square should not be industrial, as was said,
rectangular or square, but humanist. Depending on where one was positioned,
the eye reconstructs the place. We are therefore focused
on the individual’s perspective. So, the buildings
obviously symbolize the entire establishment of French power.
For example, we have the Post Office. My job was telegraph at the time. Over there, at the very back,
we have the police station, to which a floor was added
in the 1920s, but the first part, like
all these buildings, was made between 1889 and 1897. And finally, the Grand Hotel,
with a rear facade, a superb 18th-century facade,
where other illustrious figures of the protectorate were also received. This is the heart of the
French administrative district. In the aftermath of the First
World War, nearly a thousand French people lived in Pnumpen. Their meeting place was the Café
du Grand Hôtel, the only café in town. For about thirty years,
Phnom Penh prospered. After independence in 1953,
the city continued to grow until the arrival of the Khmer Rouge. On April 17, 1975, he marched in Phnom Penh; Paul Pot was now in power.
Not. It empties the capital of almost
its entire population. The city will be left abandoned
for more than three years. Today, the cantoned district, the oldest part of the city, still bears the marks
of this tragic period. Its repopulation,
after the fall of the Guimets Rouges, generated an astonishing urban landscape. Like this temple, which has been
completely absorbed by the city. Well, here we have the central Canthoman temple
of the time, completely, completely, empiricized. That is to say, it was surrounded
by every possible and imaginable dwelling, with motorcycles
passing inside. It’s a common occurrence. So, when we see the name of the temple,
the Jade Mountain Palace, the use of this green and
blue color here and there, we are among the segregated. You see, here for example,
we have a column support on which people sit,
quite characteristic of the entrance to a temple. There are also
some beautiful tiles here that still remain, that have stayed just as they were. And from here, we go towards the heart of the temple. And as soon as you raise your head, there’s the roof. What remains of the roof is some very
beautiful woodwork that was originally painted.
The colors can still be distinguished. Also, beautiful
votive plaques gilded with gold. Some people wanted to buy them
to resell them, but others refused to sell them because
it might bring misfortune to the community. So, there is still,
somewhere, the idea of protection. We are in a school and the
classrooms have been completely converted into empirics. She sent herself out of the apartment. The school’s administrative building has
also been divided into apartments. When people returned
to the city in ’79, we repopulated the city as best we could. We settled wherever we could. We had provisional property titles
that the village chief gave and signed. And the old corpse,
having been completely destroyed, there were no longer any documents attesting,
let’s say, to the ownership rights of the former owners. So everyone was just settling down
wherever they could. That’s what happened here. And so the building has not regained
its original function as a school. So, when Mouh came here,
for example, well, I imagine he must have seen a neighborhood like this. Because it’s really
the oldest neighborhood where I live. The Red Eagles shook the city
of Phnom Penh and tragically marked the history of the country. Artists did not escape
this bloody period. Pol Pot’s supporters relentlessly sought
to destroy Guemaire culture, of which dance is a part. King Nodam Sianuk’s daughter,
Princess Bopadevi, became a star dancer
in the Royal Ballet of Cambodia at the age of 18. For over 30 years, she
performed on stages all over the world. Today she is the illustrious
representative of this art which almost disappeared. It
is true that during the Pol Pot period, between 500 and 600 artists from the Royal Ballet
were expelled from the capital of Phnom Penh
to live and work in the countryside with the peasants. A very large number of them
suffered from hunger, disease, and death. That is why after this period,
only 8 to 10 percent of the artists survived. Somalia is a professor of Khmer dance
at the Academy of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh. She is one of the few
traditional dancers who escaped the Khmer Rouge. These little girls are learning to stand
straight, with impassive faces. In Khmer dance, only the hands
and feet describe figures. Every posture must express
a feeling, and every gesture has the value of a word. This exercise is designed to loosen your
wrists, fingers, and here. You need to place your elbow properly
on your knee and open your shoulders wide. Place the hollow of your wrist under the hollow
of your ankle and use your other hand to bend the ankle. Keep your hips stable
and your shoulders open. These exercises are very difficult because they
force the body to work against its natural posture. Naturally, our arms and hands
move forward in that direction. But in classical Khmer dance, you
have to do the opposite, that is, you have to
bring your hands back. These exercises
can be very painful. It is only when you reach this degree
of flexibility that you are ready for the show. Learning the movements is not the same for all students. Dancers who have a feminine role
must keep their hands close together. Whereas the arms of the female dancers
for the male roles must be more spread apart and smile like this. After loosening the hands, feet,
body and hips, these exercises should be practiced every morning. The repertoire of traditional Khmer dance includes approximately 4,500 gestures. These young dancers will
graduate after ten years of rigorous discipline. Essential training for
one day joining the Royal Ballet of Cambodia. You see, in fact,
you can do whatever you want. Do you hear? Joining the Royal Ballet company is the dream of these young women. They are preparing
to rehearse for an audition today. They will present a dance that has been practiced
for over 1,000 years in Cambodia. For
the first time, they are wearing the traditional costume of the
dancing goddesses of the temples of Angkor. Originally, the women who wore
this outfit danced to communicate with the gods. They were called the hapsaras. By tradition, a hapsara
always wears a white costume. She is the lead dancer,
the one with the most important role. But there are also three other
colors: blue, red, and green. White represents the diamond, or more precisely,
the light reflected by the diamond. Blue represents a stone
of great value, it is the sapphire. Red is ruby,
and green is emerald. The
way the pleats on the skirt are made is directly inspired by the statues
of the absaras carved on the temples of Ancorvate and Banteisere. Shall I flirt with you for a little while?
Yes. Ah.
Yes. Shh. Before continuing our journey
to Ancorps, following in the footsteps of Henri Mouaut, there is one last place
I would like to take you. It is closely linked to the discoveries
of the French naturalist. This is the National Museum of Phnom Penh. This
national museum houses thousands of works of art, some of which date back to the 5th century. This house is the world’s largest collection
of Khmer sculptures. There is one in particular that I would like to
introduce to you. This sculpture, here it is, it is
supposed to represent Jeff Herrmann VII. He was a very great sovereign
who reigned in the 12th century. He left a
considerable mark on the Ancor site. Moreover,
he is the builder of Ancorthum, where this sculpture was found. So, this king
was a great conqueror, but here he was portrayed as a religious hermit. His eyes are closed, he has a slight smile, his
face is completely serene. He is deep in meditation. The statue of Djevarman VII,
like all other sculptures, goes through the
museum’s restoration workshop before being presented to the public. Stamping is one of the
workshop’s specialties. A technique that Sreymon
has mastered perfectly. Today,
the young woman must reproduce the inscriptions engraved on this stele
from an Ancor temple, a rare piece dating from the 10th century. Thanks to Sreymon’s work, archaeologists will be able to learn
more about the history of the temple. This will allow them to gather
valuable information about the king who had it built. We are leaving Phnom Penh. The journey continues towards
Lake Thonnes les Saps. This is a step on the road to Ancor. When Rimu-Oh began his journey
to western Cambodia, he crossed this lake and its floating cities. Every year, during the monsoon,
Thonnes les Saps becomes the largest freshwater lake in the world. In the village of Préctoal,
everything has remained frozen as it was in the time of the explorer. The houses are still made
of wood and coconut leaves. Approximately 800 families
live in this village. Here, before walking,
children first learn to swim and will learn to do so at school in a dugout canoe. Van Lijnge and his family are fishermen,
like most of the inhabitants of Préctoal. I’ve been fishing for about ten years. I know nothing else but fishing. It’s an easy way to make a living. Everyone does as they please, but here,
fishing is the most practical thing, because you do
n’t have to go far. He also regularly catches snakes in his nets,
which he then sells. That one is worthless. It’s too small to be sold,
but it’s best to remove it from here. Lake Tonde les Saps offers other means of subsistence. Vanlingues’ tent, Soccaniem, lives
off its water hyacinth harvests. Using dried hyacinth stems,
Soca makes bags, baskets, and rugs which she sells
to passing tourists. I grew up on the water. I am happy when I am on the water. But life isn’t always simple. Sometimes there are storms with
big waves and our houses move a lot. We have to put up with all of this. It’s true that on dry land,
everything is simpler. After several months spent in Cambodia,
Henri Mouhau will discover a fabulous treasure forgotten in the heart of the jungle. The site of Angkor, Between the 9th and 14th centuries, the Khmer kings dominated this part of the world. Their influence at the time
far exceeded the current borders of Cambodia, which was still their capital. The site covers more
than 400 square kilometers. That’s four times the size
of the city of Paris. It has 200 monuments, half of which are
listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Hidden in the middle of the forest, the Temple of Taperome, the Temple of the Tree. Taperum is a major temple,
it is a Buddhist temple monastery. It is very impressive with these trees
whose roots intertwine with the stone. It is as Henri Mouhau
discovered it in his time. And Henri Mouhau will be spending a month here. He will take notes,
make sketches. He will send all his work to Europe. And that is how
the West’s fascination with the Encore site was born. The trees that grew within the grounds
of Taperomme have severely damaged its structure. Much work was needed
to stabilize these ruins, because like most of the temples of Ancor,
it is built of sandstone. A material that struggles
to withstand the wear and tear of time. Until 1975, France had
a monopoly on restorations at Ancor. Today, 16 countries
are involved in this site. The most famous temple in Ancorps is Angorvate. Henri Mouhau was speechless
at the sight of this building. For him, it is an architectural work
that has never had its equivalent on the globe. Today it is a
living sanctuary of the Buddhist faith. A sanctuary visited
by millions of tourists every year. The Tunisian archaeologist, Hazedine Béchaoud
, has been fighting for 20 years to save the site. When you visit the Ancor site,
you are still struck by the flow of tourists. Yes, indeed,
we only have to look at it there. And that’s all day long. It’s all day long. I was going to say, especially when I look
over there, it’s like the subway at 6 o’clock. I find it amusing to say, but it’s true. How many tourists come here per year? Let’s say around three million. But what is 3 million? Listen, you know the numbers. In Paris, Notre-Dame, the interior,
is half a hectare. You have between
35,000 and 40,000 per day, on average. So, 13.5 million, I think, per year. I won’t go. I can’t say that
it would take 13 million here, but it’s a 40,000 hectare site. But this mass tourism, while
economically useful, also represents a danger to the site. I don’t see the danger that way. It’s not a question of numbers,
it’s a question of organization. I mean, there are too many people
because they all only go here. Did you see?
They are focusing on a temple. Later, if you’ll allow me,
we’re going to visit another magnificent temple that’s about to be
restored, it’s the Bapwam. If you don’t mind, we could go.
Ah, let’s go. Yes. So, if we organized things properly,
it would be better. It will get better. Azedine Béchaouch takes us to Bapouane, also known as the Golden Temple. It is one of the few temples in Ancor
to have the shape of a pyramid. It
was built in the 11th century and restored by the French School
of Extremadura, of the Orient. This temple is on the ground. I saw it on the ground, completely dismantled. At the moment the
red paths arrived. We can still see some stones.
You can still see stones all around. Who are waiting.
Yes, but this temple has a dual purpose. First, its restoration is linked
to France, since it was France that, between 94 and 2011, our colleague Pascal Royer, did a magnificent job.
And why is it such a magnificent piece of work? Because this temple is difficult. Between the 11th and 16th centuries,
he was Hindu. But Bapouane is also known
for having one of the largest reclining Buddha statues. So, we went from a
Hindu temple to a Buddhist temple. Without the Buddhist temple destroying
the Hindu temple. And how do we show visitors
these two periods? He succeeded. Here, I really like this
miniature art where you have everyday life, in a very beautiful art. Rabbits, we see the bull,
which is the mount of the chiva. But also religious scenes
like this one, scenes of devotion. But also, they have an epic,
a great epic, the Mahabharata, which is like for us, the Aeneid,
the Liliad, the Odyssey, etc. And so, it is very interesting when
we can look at it both from an aesthetic point of view , but also to see the correspondence
between the religious content reported in the epic and the scenes that are represented. Is this the Hindu period? Yes, yes, all of that is part of the season.
Which has been preserved. Which has been preserved.
When the temple became Buddhist. You can see that… there are fewer people fighting in it.
That’s for sure. And that one day we have to start again, the lights. About ten kilometers away
stands the Pre-Rupture temple. It is what is called a
mountain temple, a style characteristic of Khmer architecture. Mountain temples consist of a
three-tiered base and five towers, usually one at each corner
and a fifth in the middle. Most of the temples found
at the Ancor site are built on the mountain temple principle. It is a completely
symbolic representation of Mount Meru, Mount Merou which, for Hindus and
Buddhists, represented the center of the world like Olympus for the Greeks. This is where the gods,
the gods, and the kings lived. And kings, when they
die, change their names. And that is why this
temple, which is a place of worship, is called Préroupe. Préroupe, which means
change of image. Age. In his diary from that time, Henri Mouaut
precisely describes the city of Encortum. This is where the last
mountain temple still built is located: the Bayonne. This complex is owed to King Jay
Vermann VII, nicknamed the Builder King. Bayonne is
the temple with 173 faces. Each sculpted head is unique. Another marvel of Bayonne is
the bas-reliefs that adorn the walls surrounding the temple. Here, we have historical bas-reliefs
from the exterior gallery of the Bayonne which show the movement of the troops
of Jeherman Set’s army, who are going into battle. A frenetic builder, Jeherman Set was also a great conqueror,
at the head of a powerful army. These are the high fairies of arms
of Jaillard-Manset, so it’s a bit of political propaganda. And so right here, opposite us, is
all the logistics that accompany this Khmer army which is on the move. We have some rather funny little scenes
where we have an infantryman getting his buttocks bitten by a
turtle, which is being held by this Khmer woman. The turtle bites the infantryman’s buttock,
the infantryman holds the turtle’s head, he turns around,
and when you look at the facial features, well, it suggests that he is
not particularly happy. We have some bar-iefs here that are
extremely detailed and expressive. Each character’s facial features
are different, so we can have smiles,
characters showing displeasure. And it is not necessarily found in
other Barrellefs that are earlier. On the walls of the Bayonne,
all the key moments in the sovereign’s life have been immortalized. The dances that the Apsaras performed for
the gods, the religious rituals, the great naval battles
during the time of the Essap. These extraordinary bas-reliefs extend
over 1,200 meters in length and 5 meters in height. They feature no
fewer than 11,000 characters. Around the compositions dedicated to the king,
sculptors also depicted the daily life of the Khmer people
at the end of the 12th century. Here we have a cooking scene,
so we have the small oven here and therefore the container in which the rice is cooked. We have fish kebabs. It’s very detailed. We have a building here that can give
an image of the type of housing that existed at the time. We have traces of tiles here which are
well represented and small fetaches, which therefore indicates that we may have had
someone who was already quite rich who owned this dwelling. And so in these bars we have,
probably rice that was stored and what we are showing here is precisely
the transport of this rice. And right next to it,
we see this elderly woman who is giving birth sitting down
and being helped by her neighbors who are acting as midwives. By having all these buildings constructed,
Jay Vermann VII profoundly altered the Ancorian landscape. He is also responsible for the Prehacan,
a majestic flat temple. Built in the 12th century,
the temple likely served as Gevermanset’s residence while he
was having his future palace built in Corthomme. Encore’s population
at its peak was estimated to be close to one million inhabitants.
That was considerable for the time. Moreover, this temple,
the Prehacan, was a university. Nearly 1,000 professors
taught medicine here. It is common to find moats around
temples, moats which are filled with water. These moats and this water
had a dual function. Firstly, they served a technical function,
as they helped to stabilize the structure. And then a function,
I would say of a spiritual, religious nature, since for Hindus
and Buddhists, water is the Cosmic Ocean. Moreover, water is
intimately linked to the Ancor site. Water management is one of the keys to Ancor’s prosperity and longevity. It made it possible to harvest several
rice crops per year and to feed the million people
who lived on the site. To understand the importance of water
in Ancorian civilization, one must travel about fifty
kilometers to the northeast. Heading towards the Coulaines mountains.
Kingdom. It was from the top of these mountains
that the founder of Ancor proclaimed the independence of his kingdom in the 9th century. This city was the first
capital of the Khmer Empire. For more than a kilometer,
the Kbaldspin river is lined with hundreds of symbols
carved directly into the stone. They are lingas. They represent
Hindu deities. When water flows over the lingas,
it becomes charged with sacred powers. Since the 9th century,
this water has been used for all the major ceremonies of the kingdom. Today, Cambodians
still believe in the power of these holy waters. Legend has it that it was thanks to this
river, which flowed down the mountain towards the valley, that
the fabulous temples of Encore were able to be built. This formidable hydraulic system
operated for nearly 500 years. But at the beginning of the 13th century,
too busy waging war with neighboring kingdoms,
the Khmers no longer maintained this system that sustained them. The Encore site gradually died out
and the city was definitively abandoned at the beginning of the 15th century. After Henri Mouaut’s time at Encore,
a great period of scientific exploration will begin here. Henri Mouhau, for his part, died at the age
of 36 from complications of malaria. This program pays tribute to him. Thank you for following this
new episode of the Grand Tour. You can of course find us
on our website and on social media. End of the episode, but the journey continues. It is at the end that everything begins. See you
soon. Come on, folks. Right? Oh, yeah. Pack your things, baby. Now, I’ll put on your shoes. Let’s take a break. I’ll turn it loose. Come on, for a to take you out. Yeah.
Come for a ride. I want to take you out.
Yeah. Come for a ride.
I want to take you out.
Entre temples d’or et jungles millénaires, partez à la rencontre des rois bâtisseurs d’Asie.
Amoureux de la France et du patrimoine, ses trésors n’auront plus de secrets pour vous 👉https://bit.ly/4dnI1h1
00:00 Introduction à Versailles et à la délégation siamoise
05:00 Bangkok et les traditions bouddhistes
14:00 Le roi Rama IV et la modernisation du bouddhisme
31:00 Sukhothaï et Ayutthaya, capitales du Siam
36:00 Le culte des éléphants royaux
43:00 Massage traditionnel et boxe thaïe
58:00 Henry Mouhot et la découverte du Cambodge
65:00 Phnom Penh et l’héritage royal
75:00 La danse khmère et la renaissance culturelle
90:00 Angkor, les temples et l’eau sacrée
Des palais de Bangkok aux rizières du Cambodge, cet épisode de “Le Grand Tour” explore le destin croisé du roi Rama IV et de l’explorateur français Henri Mouhot, qui révéla Angkor au monde occidental. Le film traverse l’histoire bouddhiste, les arts khmers, la vie sur le Tonlé Sap et les fastes du Siam du XIXᵉ siècle, offrant un voyage initiatique à la rencontre d’une Asie spirituelle et architecturale, entre mémoire, beauté et transmission.
Titre : Le Grand Tour – Thaïlande, Cambodge
Réalisateur : Patrick de Carolis – Jean-Luc Orabona
© Tous droits réservés – AMP
#Thaïlande #Cambodge #Asie #Angkor #Héritage #RamaIV #Bouddhisme #Documentaire #Voyage #Patrimoine #TrésorsDuPatrimoine
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