도쿄의 일상｜할머니의 하라주쿠 ‘스가모’ 산책

도쿄의 일상｜할머니의 하라주쿠 ‘스가모’ 산책

Today, we’re exploring Sugamo, a quiet neighborhood in Tokyo’s Toshima ward. I’m going to stroll around Sugamo and see what this charming area has to offer. From Sugamo Station, we’ll walk along the shopping street— heading toward Komagome until we reach the Former Furukawa Gardens. Here is JR Sugamo Station. It’s served by the Yamanote Line and the Toei Mita Line, so it gets very crowded with commuters during morning and evening rush hours. Since the area is mostly residential with a lively shopping street nearby, the town itself has a calm and relaxed vibe. This district’s commercial scene has developed mostly around senior visitors, so you’ll find many shops focused on health, longevity, and safety. The 800-meter Sugamo Jizō-dōri Shopping Street is especially famous. It’s known by its nickname: “Grandma’s Harajuku.” Completely different from the flashy, bustling vibes of Shibuya or Shinjuku— Sugamo has a warm and friendly charm all its own. You’ll find so many famous long-standing shops selling traditional sweets like dorayaki. They’re exactly the kinds of treats your grandmother would always have ready at home. On the bank building’s glass windows, you’ll see a sign saying “Beware of bank transfer scams.” Because the area attracts many elderly visitors… On the left at the entrance of the shopping street is the large temple Shinshō-ji. It’s famous for its huge bronze statue of the Jizō Bodhisattva. This statue was one of six Jizō statues placed at the entrances of Edo’s major highways, and this area marked the gateway of the Nakasendō route. It was built to pray for travelers’ safety and to ward off epidemics, serving as a guardian for those journeying on the road. A true protector of travelers. People once prayed here before entering Edo, and even today— many still visit to pray for safe travels and protection on the road. When you visit Sugamo, it might be nice to stop by and pray for a safe trip, too. Alright, let’s step into the shopping street! Known as “Grandma’s Harajuku” Known as “Grandma’s Harajuku” SU Known as “Grandma’s Harajuku” SUGA Known as “Grandma’s Harajuku” SUGAMO Sugamo’s mascot character, “Sugamon.” Salted daifuku filled with sweet red bean paste, the good-luck “red underwear” for longevity, these are iconic Sugamo items. A drugstore carrying nostalgic products people have used for generations, and that delicious mochi my grandmother used to give me. Maybe that’s why people keep coming back to this town—seeking those comforting tastes. This straight shopping street stretches about 800 meters, and it’s the heart of sightseeing in Sugamo. As you walk, you’ll notice a store completely covered in red. It’s a shop called “Maruji.” Red is believed to warm the “tanden” below the navel, boosting vitality—so it became a symbol of good health and long life. You’ll also find a traditional herbal medicine pharmacy— something you rarely see elsewhere in Japan these days. And this shop right here! A true Sugamo specialty. This is the original store that first created “shio-daifuku,” a perfect balance of sweet red bean paste and lightly salted mochi. There are many dango and other Japanese sweets too, but the most popular item here is definitely the shio-daifuku. I’ll buy one and give it a try. On the left is the original shio-daifuku, and on the right is the mame-daifuku. I’m going with the original daifuku! I wonder what it tastes like~ It looks just like a regular daifuku, but… Mmm— Instead of a sweet red bean paste, you can taste a subtle hint of salt in the anko. It’s a more mature kind of sweetness—really delicious. The tea shop next door even offered me a sample of tea, so my palate is refreshed now, haha. There are many shops selling canes, easy-to-wear shoes, and clothing for seniors, but you’ll also find plenty of tasty street food and traditional sweets. This clay pot here— they put charcoal inside and use it to roast sweet potatoes. The aroma of them roasting really makes you hungry~ There’s also a soba restaurant here. Sugamo’s mascot “Sugamon” is shaped like a duck because the “Suga” in “Sugamo” comes from “nest,” and “mo” (kamo) means wild duck. Is there some kind of event happening? The sound of drums is lively, and people are gathering quickly. Long ago, the Sugamo area was filled with ponds and marshlands, and wild ducks used to build their nests and live here. That’s why the name “Sugamo” means “the place where ducks build nests.” Wow, there’s a street stall that makes “shichimi” seasoning on the spot. Shichimi tōgarashi is a Japanese chili-based seasoning. Unlike Korean chili powder, it contains seven different spices. Chili pepper, sansho pepper, yuzu peel, sesame seeds, hemp seeds, poppy seeds, and aonori or ginger. These ingredients are ground and mixed together. It’s commonly sprinkled on udon or rice bowls. This temple in the middle of the shopping street is Kōganji. If Shinshō-ji at the entrance is the guardian of the town, this temple is famous as a place for healing illnesses. It’s better known by its nickname “Togenuki Jizō”—the “thorn-removing Jizō.” “Toge” means thorn, “nuki” means pull out—so it’s the Jizō who removes thorns. Long ago, someone accidentally swallowed a needle, and after dissolving a picture of this Jizō in water and drinking it, the needle supposedly stuck to the picture and came out smoothly—according to legend. However, the Jizō statue is a secret Buddha, so it cannot be seen. Instead, what’s popular among visitors is the “Arai Kannon”—literally the “Washing Kannon.” People pour water over the Kannon statue and gently wipe it with a towel. Especially focusing on the same part of the body where they feel pain. This person is wiping the chest area, so perhaps their heart is hurting. I would’ve liked to see the thorn-removing Jizō as well, but… since it’s the principal deity, it isn’t displayed. Instead, people purchase paper talismans with its image. If you exit through the side door next to the Arai Kannon, you’ll find a famous restaurant that helped spark Japan’s curry udon boom. Its curry is known for its sweetness, created by blending kelp broth with vegetables and fruits. Their signature dish is curry udon topped with tempura shrimp. Its mild, creamy flavor—rather than intense spiciness— makes it especially popular among older Japanese diners. This “Tokiwa Shokudō,” which you see often around here, is a chain of casual eateries serving affordable, hearty set meals with a nostalgic Shōwa-era atmosphere, each independently run under the same name and style. And here again, a red signboard with— rows of bright red underwear at the shop “Maruji.” It used to be famous as a gift wishing for seniors’ good health, but now it’s also popular as a “lucky item” believed to bring good fortune and exam success. At the Sugamo Post Office’s mailbox, you’ll find a cute little Sugamon~ At the far end of this shopping street is the “Sugamo Regional Culture Center,” and Sugamon is here as well. If you walk to the plaza in the back of the center, you can see Sugamon’s duck butt just like this. Ahh, and you can even give this plump little backside a gentle pat just like this, haha. There’s a clock at the entrance that’s supposed to have dolls come out on the hour, but unfortunately, it seems to have stopped. How did you like this shopping street that still preserves the feel of 1960s–70s Japan? The shopkeepers are so kind, and instead of trying to pull customers in— you’ll find warm, heartwarming conversations happening everywhere. This shopping street continues all the way to Kōshinzuka Station on the Toden Sakura Tram, but I think it’s about time to move on to the next neighborhood. Between the buildings, I spotted a small shrine hall quietly standing here, so I’ll stop by. Sugamo Kōshindō. There are statues of the Three Wise Monkeys here as well. In Japanese, the “shin” in Kōshin corresponds to the monkey in the Chinese zodiac, so it seems monkeys have a deep connection to this place. This building has quite an unusual shape, doesn’t it? We’ve come out onto the large road called the Nakasendō. It was once one of the major highways connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. The place where people entered Edo Castle along the Nakasendō— that area is exactly what we now call Sugamo. The official starting point of the Nakasendō is Nihonbashi, where Edo Castle stood. It looks like there’s a vegetable market here. And at the end of the road stands a temple called Honmyō-ji. It was originally located near Ueno but later relocated to this area. It’s also the temple tied to a major fire that shook Edo-period history. During a ritual where kimono fabric was being burned at Honmyō-ji, a spark flew out and ignited a fire that destroyed two-thirds of Edo, killing about 100,000 people, according to historical accounts. Perhaps because of that history, the cemetery surrounding the temple has a solemn atmosphere. Speaking of Sugamo, the Japanese garden “Rikugien” is very famous. But since I’ve been there many times, I’ll visit a different garden today instead. When you walk only through busy city streets, something feels missing, you know? Like a meal without any vegetables—that kind of feeling. I’m now walking through the quiet residential area of Komagome, east of Sugamo. Even within this residential neighborhood, there’s a shopping street— called the Somei Ginza Shopping Street. Usually, shopping streets form around train stations, but here, one has grown right in the middle of a residential area. Looking at the buildings and the signboards, you can really feel that this shopping street has been here for a long time. Tokyo still has quite a few traditional rice shops called “komeya.” Once rice is milled, its flavor gradually declines over time, and since Japan has many different rice varieties and customers who care about preference,用途, and freshness, that’s probably why these old-fashioned rice shops still remain today. Isn’t this such a charming shopping street that really captures Tokyo’s traditional downtown vibe? Just walking around here somehow feels calming… We’re getting close to the Former Furukawa Gardens. Among Tokyo’s metropolitan gardens, this one is admired for its perfect harmony of Japanese and Western beauty and has been designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty. Within one single property, there is a Western-style mansion, a Western-style garden, and a Japanese garden. The mansion and Western garden were designed by the British architect Josiah Conder, known as “the father of modern Japanese architecture,” who designed many residences for Japan’s major financial families. Surrounding the mansion is a Western-style garden famous for its rose garden. You can enjoy around 100 varieties of roses here, and from mid-October to late November—the season of autumn roses and autumn foliage— it’s said to be especially popular. If I had come earlier in the day when the sun was shining brightly, the roses probably would have looked even more vivid and beautiful, but I came a little late. This garden blends a symmetrical, geometric French formal garden with an Italian-style terraced garden. And if you go further down, you’ll find the Japanese garden. This Japanese garden was created by Ogawa Jihei, a master landscape gardener renowned in Kyoto. The pond is shaped to resemble the character for “heart,” so it’s called the “Shinji-ike,” or Heart-shaped Pond— and the entire garden is built around it in traditional Japanese style. Oh—there’s even a waterfall inside the garden. It’s man-made, but it blends so well with the landscape that it looks completely natural. Before I knew it, it was closing time… and the sun has begun to set. On the way back, I’ll head toward the next station, Komagome. This side of the neighborhood has a lovely atmosphere as well. It has that traditional downtown charm, yet the transportation access is excellent and it’s close to the city center—no wonder the area is popular. At Komagome Station, the JR Line and Tokyo Metro intersect. Tokyo’s renowned Rikugien Garden as well as the Former Furukawa Gardens we just visited are easily accessible from Komagome Station. I’ll wrap up the walk here and grab a drink while having dinner. Yamanote Line — Yoyogi Station. Walking through the old downtown streets filled with Shōwa nostalgia made me really crave a retro-style izakaya. And that’s how I found “Yoyogi Milk Hall.” Right at the entrance, the walls are packed with photos of Showa-era stars! It’s a combination eatery, café, and izakaya located just in front of Yoyogi Station. You could say it perfectly recreates the deep retro atmosphere of the Shōwa era. It’s not just an old shop— it feels like stepping into a time slip back to a classic Japanese diner, so it’s especially popular among fans of retro culture. Of course, many younger people also love this nostalgic vibe. The menu is full of items you’d expect from an old-fashioned kissaten café~ They even have nostalgic snack sets like this. “Umaibo,” a beloved Japanese snack enjoyed for over 40 years—haha. And karaage? Needless to say, one of Japan’s true soul foods. Cheers with a cold beer! Wow, this kissaten-like vibe… It really gives off that Shōwa-era feeling. I wonder if pork kimchi stir-fry existed back in the Shōwa days? It’s really delicious. Yaki-udon topped with plenty of bonito flakes~ Some yaki-udon comes seasoned like yakisoba, but here it’s light and very tasty. Shrimp fried rice~ Dishes that feel straight out of an old Shōwa diner or café, those nostalgic classics are the main lineup. The drinks are retro, too—they even serve “Denki Bran.” It seems all the dishes are cooked on the griddle in the center of the hall. The menu item called “Italian”— you can probably guess what it’s like, right? The dark brown wood-grain interior, record jackets, and soft lighting together create a very cozy atmosphere. When I went into the restroom, the entire wall was covered in framed photos of popular stars from the era. “Remember the old days” Amazing… truly overwhelming. When I paid and left, they even gave me a stick candy~ Thank you so much for watching until the end today!

✨ 도쿄 스가모巣鴨｜도쿄의 숨은 보석, 할머니의 하라주쿠에서 걷다
도쿄의 번화가에서 벗어나, 조용하고 정겨운 분위기의 스가모 동네를 함께 산책해요.
이 영상에서는 스가모역부터 시작해 지장보살 쇼핑 거리, 고간지, 붉은 팬티 마루지, 커리우동 가게 코나야, 그리고 아름다운 구후루카와 정원까지 도쿄의 다양한 명소를 천천히 걸으며 소개합니다.
일본 로컬의 진짜 일상과 따뜻한 정취를 느끼고 싶다면, 이 브이로그와 함께 천천히 걸어보세요🚶‍♂️🌸
편안한 음악과 함께 힐링되는 시간을 선사합니다.
#스가모 #도쿄여행 #일본브이로그

📌 영상에 등장하는 장소들:
신쇼지(眞性寺), 고간지(高岩寺), 스가모 지조도리, 고후카와 정원(旧古河庭園), 스가몽 조형물까지!

📍 오늘의 여행 코스
00:00 인트로
00:41 스가모역
02:18 신쇼지 사원
04:10 스가모 지조도리 상점가
05:03 원조 소금 오후쿠 미즈노
08:37 코간지 사원
11:55 수가몬의 엉덩이
15:31 스메이 긴자 상가
17:00 구 후루카와 정원
21:17 레트로 이자카야 ‘요요기 밀크홀’

🍽 추천 맛집
Yoyogi Milk Hall
https://maps.app.goo.gl/TEojjg7GsZbJRjh77

📷 촬영 장비
카메라: Nikon Z6III
렌즈: TAMRON 28-75mm F/2.8 Di III VXD G2
보조 촬영: iPhone 17

🎥 다른 여행 브이로그도 보러 오세요!
👉 도쿄 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCpIG2pAiieLNd16_4XI7wrf
👉 오사카 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCoTH7tZZhtDV2fQBlgzobDk
👉 오키나와 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCr44TOXdOJ_OqWcmVjl6345
👉 일본 추천 여행지: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCqvs-Y8jC5gYqJlRrnlu_tm
👉 대만 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCoEgcPnbbBSnG8IcsCsEsGl
👉 프랑스 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCr9NhuVC5YijSeQGfYhebir
👉 태국 방콕 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCpGEDuKGcPupGGTaL4EY4n8
👉 이탈리아 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCrvuBAaDXZ2Jzr7dGVB5NnC

🎵 BGM 정보
사용 음악: Artlist 음원
가입 링크: https://artlist.io/LEE-3783075
(△ 링크를 통해 가입하면 추가 2개월 무료 혜택을 받을 수 있어요!)

📌 이 영상이 마음에 들었다면 ‘좋아요’와 ‘구독’ 부탁드려요!