1000 Eels a Day: Inside Japan’s Most Explosive Eel Shop

1000 Eels a Day: Inside Japan’s Most Explosive Eel Shop

Even though we’re an eel restaurant, we don’t have a head chef or a master here. Instead of appointing one person as the top… Each of us plays to our strengths— doing what we can, and working together to support one another. A 20-minute walk from JR Narita Station in Chiba Prefecture— Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. Right beside it stands a long-established eel restaurant— today we visit Surugaya. Surugaya first began as a lodging house— and while the exact year they started their business near the temple gate is unknown, according to Naritasan historians, it already appears in records from 1798, during the Kansei era. Here, the charcoal essential for grilling eel is being prepared. By 8:30 a.m., the preparation of the eel was already underway. Yamanaka-san, in charge of filleting the eel, begins working through a huge number of eels from early morning. His knife work is truly impressive. A genuine craftsman’s skill. On this day, they prepare 100 kilograms—about 360 eels. During peak seasons like New Year’s—astonishingly— they prepare up to 600 kilograms, roughly 2,160 eels, in a single day. The two in front fillet, while the two in the back skewer the eels. Their focused expressions are truly striking. The charcoal fire has now been lit. The key to proper skewering— is to pierce right through the center between the flesh and the skin. And to skewer as straight as possible. That’s the secret. To truly master it— I’m in my fourth year now, and even after four years… there are still times when I don’t get it right. I’d say it takes around ten years. This is Takane-san, who kindly agreed to the filming. Around 10 a.m., the hall staff begin arriving. The warm and friendly atmosphere left a strong impression. The second-floor tatami room—just look at this spaciousness. A new shipment of fresh eels has arrived. Today, about 150 kilograms—roughly 540 eels—have come in. At their busiest, they receive—unbelievably— up to 1,000 kilograms, around 3,600 eels, in a single day. An absolutely staggering amount. Some of these eels seem especially lively. They’re incredibly energetic. These will definitely give you strength. Preparations are also underway in the second-floor kitchen. The second-floor Japanese-style dining room. The secret sauce is being slowly simmered down. They continue this process for as long as 45 minutes. The eel aspic also looks delicious. Preparing to issue numbered tickets for customers. We ask customers for their seating preference— whether they’d like the first floor or the second floor. We check with each group, but seating on the second floor is limited. When the second floor fills up, we guide guests to the first floor. And once the first floor is full, we guide them to the second-floor tatami room. The first-floor seats also have a calm, inviting atmosphere. “How many people?” “We will begin guiding customers in order at 11 a.m.” “How many people?” “Two.” “We will guide you in order at 11 a.m.” “Please.” “Just one, right?” “We will guide you in order at 11 a.m.” The hall staff change into beautiful kimono— ready to welcome guests with warm hospitality. To serve dishes quickly right at opening time, the eel is placed on the grill as soon as service begins. “The one I’m filleting right now—” “—this is domestic eel.” “Today it’s from…” “Hamana Lake in Shizuoka Prefecture.” “A standard size eel is usually—” “about 3.5 eels per kilo.” “But these are smaller—six eels per kilo.” “We serve two of them…” “…as our premium eel.” “The quality of the fat is noticeably different.” “There’s quite a lot of fat,” “but it’s not heavy or overwhelming.” “Compared to typical imports, like those from China,” “it tastes much lighter and cleaner.” The craftsmen’s skill is captivating enough to stop passersby in their tracks. At 11 a.m., the restaurant finally opens. “Thank you for waiting.” “We have seating on both the first and second floors.” “Two people.” “Please watch your step.” “Customer holding ticket number 3—” “Number 3, are you here?” “Two guests for the second floor, please.” “Two people.” A rich, irresistible aroma of grilled eel begins to fill the street in front of Shinshoji Temple. Once dipped into their secret sauce, the eel becomes utterly unbeatable. People can’t help but pause when they catch the scent drifting from Surugaya. The tatami room on the second floor is soon completely full. “Two adults and one baby.” There is also a private room dedicated for families with babies. For Yamanaka-san and the others, being filmed has already become part of their daily routine. A richly fatty eel pairs perfectly with a cold beer. More and more beautifully prepared lacquered boxes keep coming out. And the eels continue to be grilled nonstop. “Welcome.” The smiles of the guests enjoying their meals were truly memorable. “This is my fifteenth year working at Surugaya.” “I found the job through a listing,” “and that’s how I joined the company.” “Everyone at Surugaya gets along extremely well,” “so it’s a really enjoyable place to work.” “At many eel restaurants,” “you sometimes hear about disagreements between the owner and the head chef or master,” “but here,” “the atmosphere is open and the communication is smooth.” “That’s how we work every day.” “Whether it’s about the eel,” “or about the shop, we freely share our honest opinions,” “and we’re always working to make things better and better.” “That’s the kind of mindset we have here.” “It really…” “sets us apart from many other places,” “and I think that’s a major difference.” “At least, that’s how I feel.” “For plain grilled eel, I absolutely recommend plum and wasabi.” “We usually go to whichever seats are available in the front,” “that’s where we end up sitting.” “But this time, this spot happened to be open,” “so we thought we were lucky and came in.” “Today we were fortunate—the seats were open.” During New Year’s, the restaurant is so popular that they operate with a team of 50 staff. Eel—one of the true icons of Japanese food culture. Eel—one of the true icons of Japanese cuisine. Grilled with sauce or served plain—both are exceptional. For every customer’s smile, the staff pour their heart and dedication into the work. This time, we visited a restaurant standing right beside Naritasan Shinshoji Temple— the beloved Surugaya. When you visit Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, be sure to stop by Surugaya as well. “Eel is one of Japan’s traditional—” “—and deeply rooted food cultures.” “Working with it is really interesting,” “and I hope more young people will learn about it.” “As the next generations come along,” “including here at our company,” “if this tradition can keep growing and evolving,” “I think that would be incredibly meaningful,” “and a really wonderful thing.”

Japanese eel restaurant【Surugaya】 at Narita city.

Website：https://www.surugaya-unagi.net/
Instagram：https://www.instagram.com/narita359_surugaya/

This super popular restaurant prepares up to 1,000 eels a day!
This time we took a close look at Surugaya, a historic eel restaurant founded in 1791,
located right next to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple in Chiba Prefecture.
During busy times such as New Year’s, a total of 50 staff members welcome customers.

Eel is a traditional Japanese dish that delights the stomachs of many people.
I hope that this deliciousness will continue to be passed down for generations to come.

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