ヨーロッパの要塞化されたアフリカ国境：スペイン人とモロッコ人はどう思っているか？

ヨーロッパの要塞化されたアフリカ国境：スペイン人とモロッコ人はどう思っているか？

on the northern edge of Africa there is a border that shouldn’t exist just across the water the streets the language and even the laws belong to another continent it’s Europe inside Africa a place where Europe’s colonial history never really ended it still decides who belongs and who doesn’t good morning I’m currently in a place called Belyounech which is uh all the way in the north of Morocco it’s uh one of the most northern most points of uh Africa and it’s very windy up here because I’m right now in the cliffs on the rocks here and the sea is right there so actually right over there what you can see that’s mainland Spain it’s not that far from here but it’s not the only point of Spain that you can see from here because a few hundred meters that way on the coastline there there’s a place called Ceuta and that’s a Spanish city here on African soil Spain’s presence in North Africa goes back more than 600 years long before it crossed the Atlantic it was already expanding south across the Strait of Gibraltar Ceuta was captured in 1415 decades before Columbus even set sail and later became one of Spain’s first overseas possessions from here forts trade posts and garrisons spread along Morocco’s northern coast today that presence is quieter but its impact still runs deep Ceuta and the nearby Moroccan town of Belyounech sit just a few kilometers apart divided by a fence but bound by history we came here to hear from people on both sides how this centuries old border shapes their lives and what they really think about the question of sovereignty all the lands here alongside these cliffs were once conquered by Spain and you can still find some bunkers and old tunnels that are in the mountains here because they used them as a Protection to spot smugglers and enemies that would come on the waters here I’m checking if we can still find any let’s see maybe this could be a tunnel do you think this oh wow that’s very dark where do you think this goes I don’t know catacombs I may hope not I hope there’s no rats in here do you have wolves here really oh it’s very dark look this was all just used as Protection against smugglers and enemies and invaders but I mean they were the invaders of course there’s so many spider webs here what was that sound? what the fuck oh that’s the Echo this is very much like that film as above so below in under the catacombs of Paris stop it Jesus Christ oh my God look there’s a skeleton that’s from a dead sheep there’s light at the end of the tunnel oh it goes further here there’s something laying there oh these tunnels collapsed here there’s an exit here but I think we should take the other exit because I think the police officers we saw earlier are standing up there and I don’t want to crawl out of that hole in front of them oh wow I wonder what this was used for yeah it looks like something like that oh so this tunnel network all the way goes from in here and then all the way up there I think it’s a place to load a UFOs they go from here as usually goes with colonization it leaves lasting scars and tensions and even in recent times this region has known some geopolitical conflict just off the coast here there’s also a very small island called perejil or Layla Island depending on who you ask and in 2001 this uh was the place of a standoff between Morocco and Spain when Moroccan soldiers raised the flag on the rock and then Spanish soldiers they came and they took it back so it’s crazy that just uh in recent times something so small just uh leads to so many tension still there are so many goats here just walking around and these goats are uh guarding this car I love how these goats just overtook the mosque here even after Morocco gained independence in 1956 a few territories never returned they’re small on the map but symbolically enormous reminders of a past that both nations still negotiate for many people living here these lines drawn on the map have a huge impact we’re now in the city centre of belyounech trying to talk to some of the locals that live here see what they have to say so let’s see if we can find someone there’s someone who lives in this house here just made out of stones let’s see if he’s home were you born in Belyounech? wow what do you do for a living so before he used to work in ceuta? until recently people in northern Morocco could cross into Ceuta and Melilla without a visa thanks to a special local border deal then after Covid era closures and new policies in 2022 2024 Spain and Morocco scrapped that visa free privilege now anyone crossing needs a regular Schengen visa and short term passes once used by workers are no longer accepted that’s why locals often say it was easy before and now it’s not that’s a picture of himself on there and this is an old franc do you do you think that Ceuta should be back to being Morocco or that it stays like this this house was built by the Spanish here in Belyounech 50 locals manage the mountain springs that supply most of ceuta water it’s a quiet partnership across the border the city pays them to keep it flowing even as some question whether ceuta should rely on
Morocco’s water at all in 1911 just before Spain officially colonized northern Morocco Ceuta faced a major problem it had no water of its own Spanish engineers came here to belyounech where they found the springs that would keep the city alive when the system was completed in 1912 they left the local landowners a small share of their own water just enough for agriculture and daily use that’s a lot of power he has we just got this helmet and now we’re going in this long alleyway which leads all the way to the source and from there all the water from ceuta comes oh wow the water is so clear we’re going to take a selfie in the cave wow this is very cool look at the water running here it smells very fresh in here and it’s also very cold because we’re deep inside the mountain this whole cave is just all natural and they just made uh the Spanish made all this uh structures inside just to catch the water Belyounech might look quiet but it’s one of the main crossing points for people trying to reach Europe every year migrants from across Africa come here hoping to swim or climb their way into ceuta Spain’s gateway to Europe because of that this whole region is heavily patrolled police checkpoints border guards and surveillance cameras are everywhere the border isn’t just a line on a map it’s a wall separating two very different worlds sometimes only a few hundred meters apart so there’s a border from Ceuta that goes right into Belyounech which you can see it right there but one time we were here in 2019 and one night like we heard like helicopters and like a lot of speed boats and everything and then the next day we Learned that like there were hundreds of immigrants that tried to force through that border and ever since Spanish authorities completely closed that uh border which has caused a lot of hindrance to the people living here because a lot of them live in Ceuta go to hospitals in Ceuta just so many things that they have in Ceuta but now that it’s closed instead of just walking into it they have to hold do a whole detour over the mountain to go the mountain that belyounech is on is called Jbel Mussa and people call it the sleeping woman because if you can see it you can see a sleeping woman I can see it that’s her face over there and the chest too and the boobs I have a friend who’s called Hesam and he is Spanish he grew up in Ceuta eh but he also has a lot of family that lives in Belyounech here so he crosses the border all the time and I’m on my way now to the border because he’s going to like cross with me there and show me around in the city and for me as a European it’s actually quite easy to go there uh I don’t have need any visa of course but for Moroccans here it’s very difficult to cross uh like Achraf by example he cannot go he would have to apply for a Schengen visa to go there crazy that I cannot even visit my
people’s homeland yeah wow there’s a beautiful beach here but there’s not many people swimming here yeah usually this beach when the tide is too low people even walk to Ceuta really yeah are there a lot of uh yeah I can see there’s a lot of police officers here too yeah it’s very fortified all the time hmm we’re getting very close to the border now and there’s a lot of police officer everywhere here so I cannot film anymore but I see you on the other side hi that went actually quite smooth it went quite quick yeah this is my cousin hi Jonathan nice to meet you how often do you cross this does your family who live in beliyunish also sometimes cross to here so there’s this place we’re going to and you said it’s dangerous sometimes it’s dangerous not always but sometimes and what makes it dangerous exactly there are a lot of drug dealers they like they always fight someone owes you money you can go and get him and the police will be looking for you but they can’t find you because you’re here okay so the police doesn’t come there no okay that sounds like a great spot to first go when you arrive in Ceuta really oh my God we can already hear the shooting from over here is it common for people to have guns here just here only in this region people have guns do you think that most people that live here see themselves more as European or more as Moroccan I think they see themselves as Europeans but just because they don’t want to be Moroccan why is that you think but there’s a lot of Moroccan people visiting too here and they often have family there too right what are all these places here but now they are closed because people from Morocco can’t enter like before and when when when the borderline was open like to everyone from Morocco people from Morocco used to come here buy stuff and then like go sell it in Morocco again this part of the city the police are scared to to come here because they always like throw rocks at them why specifically this region you think hesam said that this region is not very safe normally but because his family is a bit influential here we can walk here because everyone knows him and they won’t do anything to a foreigner now we’re at an old Spanish castle that was built here uh in the old days when they just invaded but nowadays it’s just used for smoking weed ah we have to crawl through that little hole there ha ha ha luckily I’m skinny do you need help maybe you have to go with your feet first see okay you got through can you hold this okay I’ll try to get through too you did this many times before OK phase 1 breaking into an old castle in ceuta is are these all gunshots that I’m hearing what was this place used for there’s like a little Dinosaur here does it happen often that uh people from Morocco cross to ceuta here and then hide out anywhere here yeah and if someone crosses illegally they immediately send them back and if they’re uh children oh wow what’s the biggest difference between living here and living there does it cause a lot of trouble for you to have to cross the border so often when it’s full like if you have to wait like from 2 to 4 hours in the border line that’s common? that’s so common your family that lives in belyounech I heard that before they were able to cross from belyounech directly? so people that are living there now they just cannot cross at all anymore it’s crazy how many gunshots we hear here that’s just the whole time do you also often visit the mainland in Spain this whole hill here is just one big Muslim graveyard is there also a Jewish cemetery and a Christian one such a small piece of land and there’s just so many different cemeteries and mosques and churches and then from there on what happens next those are illegal immigrants ah they crossed already yeah they crossed already and when you go to school you learn Arabic and you learn Spanish too it’s interesting there’s a lot of people that uh are already crossed and they’re just here and they’re just waiting for their papers until they can go to mainland Spain where are they in the meantime then in the meantime they just live in the park here or they have housing here OK so the government as soon as someone crosses here the government like supplies for places to stay this looks more like a an office building we’re trying to find a museum we’re getting a bit lost I think there’s literally someone working there so I don’t think it’s a museum maybe do most young people in ceuta is it easy for them to find a job is it also common for someone from Morocco to find a job here no because it’s maybe just as difficult to get here because they would have to apply for a Shengen visa and a work visa which is very difficult behind me is the entrance to the Old City and this is connected to the mainland here with this little bridge here that uh before when the Spanish conquered this they could then lift up the bridge when they were afraid that any other people would take it back and one time they were able to take it back and then the Spanish fled all the way up there and they hid out there until much later they conquered it again as soon as you enter the city centre it starts looking a lot different than Belyounech and the Moroccan side so now there’s a lot of churches it looks a lot like a southern European city I think he also has an identity crisis just like the people from ceuta yeah you can see that first it was the Romans yeah Romans this is the Moroccans like the Arabic Spanish again Portuguese and then again Spanish and before this should still then be the Amazigh because before that before the Romans were here it was but they surely the Amazigh are here before the Romans already right but aren’t and aren’t Amazigh the indigenous people to the land is that sensitive to say in like no according to like the Spain but we wanted to hear that from the people themselves when you talk about Ceuta many people they want this place to still be from Morocco what is your opinion about this what do you think because these days it’s still very difficult for people that are from other parts of Africa to travel to the country and to come here do you think it should be easier for them to come here do you think that people here are aware of the colonial history from the place Do you think they should be Learning in school more about the history and about that also amazigh people used to live here most people here live within the safety of privilege unaware of what others have to endure just to reach this site many know little about ceutas past or how its history still shapes the line that divides comfort from struggle even with its struggles over sovereignty its colonial shadows and the inequality that lingers ceuta remains a symbol of coexistence where fates still live side by side what is this exactly so it’s for religious reason yes this doesn’t have anything to do with uh white supremacy or anything besides churches and mosques there’s also still some Jews left that live here and here is a synagogue so we didn’t get in but there’s still a huge quarter of Jewish people that live here and this is one of the last synagogues here you can see that there’s a lot of in like we’re standing here five minutes and there are already multiple people that entered here there is also still a Hindu temple here and right now I think there’s something going on inside from the more lively centre of the city we went to the outskirts of the enclave right at the border with belyounech and here you can see the old border that is now been closed for quite a while so people cannot use this easy way anymore before you could just cross from here straight into Belyounech but now people have to go all the way around actually us we live in ceuta but we used to go to belyounech if we had an emergency we could cross from here from there to here so also the people that are just living here now to see their family or just there they have to drive all the way around all the way around until we reach did you ever see people that uh try to go and then there’s people that that like this the sea takes them maybe to Algeria to I don’t know uh Melilla like the people that try to cross to Spain what’s the most popular or like let’s say uh the most common thing they try they try to go swimming most people do they try swimming here like uh before before like the pandemic and before like the marine goes like here to belyounech there were like boats who used to come from Spain take people from from there from belyounech and then go back to Spain and throw them there the crossing took hours but we eventually made it back to Belyounech this video is brought to you by Manta Sleep getting proper rest while constantly on the road isn’t easy different beds noise lights it all adds up that’s why we’ve been using two of their newest products the Manta Sound Sleep Mask New Generation and the Manta White Noise Machine the sound mask has ultra thin Bluetooth speakers built right in so 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pad that’s easy to use even in the dark and it works instantly you can check them out at Mantasleep.com and use our code absurdist Sleep for 10% of all products good morning yesterday I crossed back into Morocco and today is another very beautiful day here in belyounech ceuta was very interesting but it’s actually not the only place in Africa that Spain claims there is another place and to find that place we’re gonna drive the very beautiful northern coastline of Morocco along Morocco’s northern coast Spain still controls other territories uninhabited rocks and islands that few people know about among them peñón de veléz de la Gomera and peñón de Alhucemas I’m standing in front of peñón de veléz de la Gomera and that over there is Spain and this here this line that you see here that’s the shortest border in the whole world it’s only 85 meters so before this was a fort from the Spanish but right now it’s just a military checkpoint and you cannot cross here at all like no one is allowed to go only military personnel because there’s not even a checkpoint in 2012 seven Moroccan activists climbed the rock raising their country’s flag in protest calling for the liberation of Ceuta and Melilla they were arrested by Spanish forces but their message spread that history here is not forgotten it’s literally crazy that it’s spain you can see like the bin it says Ciudad Autonoma de Melilla which means it’s like it just it just from the Melilla province and they just brought this it’s funny they’re just like this small line basically I wonder if you like cause in Ceuta you have so many political refugees I wonder if you just come here and they just jump over the cord are they then immediately a refugee if you just put your foot there now then you basically have illegally migrated to Europe Achraf launches an attack on Spain now not that rock is Spanish before you get sniped by one of the soldiers there’s just some there’s just some probably person people from the army that are standing up there on the balcony wait do you think I can just like touch the Spanish soil with your feet would I be shot maybe maybe like it’s just a rope he’s like no very funny how tight it is because Achraf just put his foot right there and there was immediately someone who whistled that was like no no no no no there’s also just a very small bridge there that connects this piece of land to this piece of land and it’s really a small spot but politically it’s very massive besides Spain being here it’s also just a very beautiful beach here like I mean now it’s almost winter so not many people are here but in the summer I would totally come here for a swim it’s really very beautiful I love what you say besides Spain being here it’s also interesting that before this fort was not connected to the land there but there was an earthquake a few years ago and that just uh connected the beach over there with the fort and now technically you can walk there but of course that’s not possible it’s crazy how such a small plot of land can still uh be so sensitive even long after the empire that built it doesn’t exist anymore further east lies peñon de Alhucemas another Spanish fortress island off the Moroccan coast once a launching point for colonial campaigns more to the east is one more city also belonging to Spain also belonging to Spain Melilla often the centre of tragic stories of migration we just arrived on the side of Melilla you can see the border fence over there and just as with these other places like ceuta as well Morocco has an irredentist claims over this area which means that if they would be able they would like to Annex this can you see anything what are you seeing Spanish people I see an airport oh they have an airport here too yeah for many people across Africa this is the closest point that they can get to Europe and you can see like uh the fence that just signals the border between those two worlds every year thousands of migrants and refugees reach this frontier hoping to cross into European soil in June 2022 one of the deadliest border incidents in recent history happened right here when nearly 2,000 people tried to storm the fence dozens lost their lives and hundreds were injured a tragedy that revealed the human cost of
Europe’s border system do you know anyone who uh ever tried to cross here specifically not really I know of a person that tried to like cross illegally to Spain but they departed from next to Casablanca yeah and went all the way to mainland Spain with a boat and there were like tens of people and they paid like 1,000 euro or something each they took them to a an asylum and then he stayed there and he was doing well they gave him money and stuff but then uh he got into a fight and then because of that he got deported back The European Union has spent hundreds of millions of euros outsourcing migration control the goal to stop migrants long before they reach Europe’s shores but this system has created a shadow zone where accountability blurs it’s a bitter irony for centuries Europe expanded deep into Africa taking land resources and people and now generations later the descendants of those once colonized are being kept out by the same powers that once crossed into their lands freely across Europe rising right wing politics have hardened these borders even more instead of offering Protection or legal pathways governments invest in higher fences tougher patrols and deals that push the problem south far from European eyes but not from African lives it’s like catacombs I hope there’s no wolves or something yeah we do satanic rituals and they’re like fighting over a rock that has like zero habitants like right now you cannot see anyone that lives there whatsoever it’s so crazy that like Spain which is all the way there thinks that this is still theirs Salam Aleykoum is everything good? no, I came here in 1985 are you proud of morocco? viva morocco? viva marruecos his majesty the king I’m unemployed since 2004 ever since we got into a crisis with Spain yes we had our pass We would show them our cards before and if it said Belyounech then they would let us pass and if it was from tangier, they wouldn’t let you pass this is when we paved the belyounech road in 2010 ah so you used to work with them? yes that is part of our land the spanish only got to Ceuta in 1911 if one day you hear that Ceuta became moroccan, what would you feel? I’d feel great especially if it would be very peaceful and we unite together like how franco did like how Juan carlos did (old king) like how the current king is also doing we’re at ease with Spain for ages and we have a long lasting trust with them there was a guy there called Antonio a spanish guy he would drive all the way here also walk here with full trust and everyone knew eachother and we lived peacefully a spanish soldier would have an arm and bread and he would feed you the bread but not kill you with the arm they knew that at some point moroccans would help them fight for their country indeed franco said he would bring an army that doesn’t eat but it was only ramadan and they ended up freeing his coutnry and they hid him here and made him a church even yes they used to shoot from that window but I closed it for safety will you came back another time? inshallah thank you should I speak in arabic or french whichever you’d like arabic is better This is a space that I made To honour this village Because from this village, we give Ceuta water They used to pay us for all the water pipes And with that money I afforded to study they built this in 1920 in 1974 I had to study I wanted to study in spain but we couldn’t afford to so my dad told me to stop the water so they give us money and that’s what we did I wrote to the mayor then he sent me money with which I studied and thanks to me all of these people who had water sources started getting paid Before the pandemic They came here While I was building something there They told me to get out of there I told them this is my property and I can do it with it as I please And why? They think it’s theirs to this day, they say that Belyounech is theirs And that the island is theirs this is it this is the water that goes to ceuta If I ever would like to stop it I just take a bucket and close it off it gets lower and lower here I’m very tall for this a picture with all of ceuta’s water you are the only two or three people that have ever been here thanks this was a pleasure to have you thanks thank you bye bye Ines once a week twice a week no because they don’t have like a visa or something like that only this part of ceuta they’re racist actually the people in Ceuta are racist towards Moroccan people yeah yeah but they’re racist to them anyway they were like stores they don’t like the police they don’t like the law it’s like favela but ceuta’s version for the military and then they used to like give classes here to people but they don’t anymore legally? no they don’t hide in like hidden places they just go all over ceuta because the police won’t
know if they’re like illegally here or not so they send them back to Morocco they don’t send them back to Morocco you can see the borderline from here the economy actually and the laws because the laws in Morocco are different than here so yeah but only the places that are close to ceuta like belyounech, tangier eh Tetouan but now like they closed it because it was so much trouble like for the police no if they if they don’t have a visa they can’t yeah we can go whenever we want people from here from Ceuta we don’t pay like the ship like people from mainland it’s cheaper for us so we pay only €8 yes but it’s far away this is where like illegal Moroccans the minor ones they put them here when they’re 18 years old they give them like the papers and then they like they send them to mainland Spain in ceuta we have like a language that only like people from ceuta understand because we mix like words from Spanish and Darija only us understand that language we only learn Spanish we had like Islamic religion back in school and then when you go to high school we don’t even study it anymore so they have like a big like a big place where they stay yeah for places to stay they talk about like clients and things here I think they talk about marketing in this place no the the museum is in the other side here we are a startup accelerator It’s a place for people who want to set up technological projects If you wanna talk about something different in ceuta then you can talk about that we have start-ups too everything is for free is paid by the government if they want to create their job yeah like if you work with someone he’s gonna he’s gonna exploit you the most he can because you won’t find any other jobs here in ceuta no I don’t think that happens very often no it’s quite easy to get to Ceuta now but for the moroccans it isn’t ah for work I have no idea about that I don’t know how hard that can be why does that dog have braids I think those are the Amazigh no it was Romans Amazigh Portuguese I think so they just don’t know about it like when we say that Ceuta is moroccan they don’t like it they say that Ceuta has always been Spanish of course it’s spanish spanish Ceuta was never moroccan I’ve always heard that Ceuta was Portuguese From my perspective Ceuta will be Spanish, As long as I’m alive it’s better that it stays spanish but if it becomes moroccan it will be like those other moroccan cities of course spanish although it should be moroccan it’s theirs, but well history is history no it’s not hard besides recently the problem we had recently during the pandemic the whole thing about the slowdown there’s been when it comes to getting in, but the africans that are not from Ceuta they don’t have any problems I see no problem that they easily can get in if they have the documents necessary to do so we’re very aware about andalusia’s story that’s something we can change because colonialism was… it’s just a crime destroyed everything I wish there was never a country that ruled over other countries we just asked the spanish and they said that Ceuta was never moroccan no moroccans were here they were tetouan’s residents were the first to be here moroccans have never left ceuta personally, I live here and also in morocco I love morocco and I love ceuta I love them both yes in school, has anyone ever told you that there were moroccans before here in ceuta? yes even before the Portuguese? thanks it looks like the Ku Klux Klan when they when they take out the virgin people go out like this excuse me we’re making a video about ceuta oh sorry it’s not possible you have to come tomorrow and ask for permission thanks a lot tomorrow neither it’s a very busy day okay thanks a lot I know some people from belyounech whose son got hit against the rock by a wave and then he disappeared
and they didn’t find him until now he’s not he hasn’t been found we’re now crossing the border back to belyounech but the line is much bigger than before so it’s gonna take a while i mean legally okay I’ve been to spain yeah I see a lot cars people

Inside Europe’s most controversial border.

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Hidden on Morocco’s northern coast are the last European colonies in Africa — the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta, Melilla, and the tiny military outpost of Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera. These are some of the most heavily discussed borders in the world: pieces of Europe located inside Africa, surrounded by fences, patrols, and decades of unresolved colonial history.

In this documentary vlog, we travel through these disputed territories to understand how colonialism survives in the 21st century. We interview residents of Ceuta who identify as European but live meters from Morocco, meet Moroccans who rely on the border for work, and explore how these enclaves shape migration, identity, and daily life on both sides. This is one of the most complex borders in the world — where Africa, Europe, and history collide.

From fortified walls in Melilla to the isolated rock of Peñón de Vélez, this video reveals the human stories behind a frontier that never disappeared, and why these enclaves continue to influence geopolitics, migration routes, and Spanish–Moroccan relations today.

📍 Locations: Ceuta, Melilla, Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera
📅 Filmed: 2025
🎥 Style: Documentary vlog

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WATCH NEXT:

👁️ Watch next: These People in Morocco Live in Cave Houses

👁️ Watch next: Inside Morocco’s Abandoned Hospital Said to Be Haunted

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CHAPTERS:
00:00 – History of Europe’s African Border;
01:32 – Inside the Old Spanish Military Tunnels;
03:53 – Spain–Morocco Border Tensions Explained;
05:20 – What Moroccans Think About Ceuta;
08:32 – How Belyounech Controls the Water Supply;
11:55 – Europe’s Most Controversial Border;
13:00 – Crossing Into Ceuta (2025);
14:32 – Hearing Gunshots Near the Border;
16:40 – Exploring an Abandoned Fortress;
19:44 – Life and Diversity in Ceuta;
21:13 – Migration Routes Into Europe;
23:05 – Europe’s Only City in Africa;
24:12 – What Spaniards Think About the Border;
28:10 – Swimming From Africa to Europe;
29:50 – Ad;
30:42 – The World’s Shortest International Border;
34:21 – The Human Cost of Europe’s Border Policies;

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WHO AM I?
Hi, I’m Jonathan Le Blanc. I create raw, documentary-style travel videos to tell human stories that rarely make it to the mainstream. My channel explores misunderstood, overlooked, or misrepresented places around the world.

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💟 Edited by: @Ajjouche on IG

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