一條不再陌生的道路:日本福井縣「若狹灣自行車道」參訪紀行
Hey, good morning everyone. I’m on the airport MRT right now. Getting ready. Heading to Taoyuan Airport. This trip is to Japan. The reason for this trip to Japan is to visit northern Japan, specifically Fukui Prefecture. They’re working on promoting the Wakasa Bay cycling route. They’re aiming to make it a national-level cycling route. On this trip, I’m going to observe how they’re promoting it. And of course, I’ll get to experience it myself. This bike trail Alright, everyone, come with me to Taoyuan Airport. Next stop, final destination: Terminal 2 at the airport. So this time, I’m heading to Japan thanks to an invitation from the Bicycle New Culture Foundation. This is a representative from the Bicycle New Culture Foundation, Executive Director Sheron Mei-wen. I’ve asked Mei-wen to share a few words with everyone about why we’re taking this trip. This time, we’re headed to Fukui Prefecture, the Wakasa Bay bike trail. to experience what it’s like over there the cycling conditions What made you decide to go? I think it was around last year. I found out about the Wakasa Bay bike path. They’re from Fukui Prefecture. They have six towns (or cities). They teamed up together. to visit our foundation. They visited several times. They came at least three times. Three times, huh? They were really dedicated and enthusiastic. Every visit, they’d ask us for advice. about how we promote cycling in Taiwan. If they’re promoting this in their own region and want to promote this cycling route what should they pay attention to? I could truly feel from them their wholehearted sincerity So, did they come to Taiwan to check out some of our bike routes? Yes, they even rode the Sun Moon Lake bike path themselves. On our trip there was a route that reminded me a lot of Sun Moon Lake. That’s awesome! Why did you invite me to go? Well, of course! Eddie’s a key person. He’s the one who brought all these insights back. It also helps everyone learn about it. Japan has a national cycling route. There’s a new cycling path. We can introduce it to everyone. So this time, in addition, we have another member with us. Aside from Eddie, myself, Giant Travel Agency is sending a colleague to join us. Naturally, our hope is to check out the local amenities and infrastructure, or some of the local services, to see if they’re compatible with our needs. if we decide to bring a group tour. You can get a full range of services here. Got it. Awesome! I can’t wait. Alright, let’s head out soon. Originally, I didn’t know much about the place I was visiting this time. Wakasa Bay Cycling Path in Fukui Prefecture was actually quite unfamiliar to me. All I knew was that it was a route that runs along the Sea of Japan right next to Wakasa Bay cycling route. But after I started looking into it, I realized this place is pretty special. Because Wakasa Bay is located in Fukui Prefecture The Reinan region in the southwest. It’s geographically close to where the emperor resides. Kyoto, the city where the emperor lives. It also borders the Sea of Japan. It’s been famous for its abundant seafood since ancient times. So along with Awaji and Shima, it’s known as one of the three ancient imperial food regions of Japan. These regions were responsible for providing food to the emperor and the imperial court. They paid tribute with local ingredients. The most iconic among these, is the mackerel. Yes, that’s the mackerel we’re all familiar with. Therefore Miss Kuwabara, who received us thoughtfully, as soon as we got in the car, offered us some mackerel sushi. We got to taste the local flavors right away. Saba (mackerel) sushi. It’s thick and tastes really fresh. Coincidentally, I really love mackerel too. Oh, is that so? That’s right. Obama City is where we’ll be staying our first night. It’s located between Kyoto and Obama. There’s an old road called the ‘Saba Kaidō’ (Mackerel Road) that links the two. This ancient route was used by merchants back then to transport mackerel and other goods along the way from Wakasa Province all the way to Kyoto. Today, the Saba Kaidō and the Wakasa area are rich in historical and cultural heritage. It’s also been recognized as a Japan Heritage site. When I was doing my research, on Google Street View, I noticed that Obama City has a ‘Saba Kaido Starting Point.’ That immediately reminded me not long ago, Toby and I had just biked over Datun Mountain, to the area next to Jinshan Sulfur Harbor Fishing Port, to check out the ‘Fish Road Ancient Trail Starting Point.’ Since both the ‘Saba Kaido’ and the ‘Fish Road Ancient Trail’ have both left their marks on the map, showing traces where people, nature, history, and food all come together, that really fascinated me. And as luck would have it, The final stop of the ‘Saba Kaido’ is in Kyoto. There’s a monument standing there as well. It’s right along our route from Kyoto to Obama City. So I asked our interpreter, Yi-Mei, to let Ms. Kuwabara know that if it was possible, could we make a quick stop at the monument so I could take a picture? She happily agreed. She asked the driver to go straight to the ‘Saba Kaido’ entrance. Alright, let’s go. We’ve come a long way, to arrive at the end of the Saba Kaido. We’re in Kyoto. Come on, let’s check it out. Even though we didn’t bike here, we still came to check it out ourselves. Right here, Here, This is the ‘Saba Kaido’ entrance. This is the spot. That’s right. We’ll be starting from here in a bit too. Then, we’ll follow the old Saba Kaido route, and drive all the way to Obama City. Then we’ll reach its starting point. But we’ll probably head to the starting point tomorrow morning. That’s awesome. From the moment I took a photo of this monument in Kyoto, I felt a sense of a ‘new beginning’. I think this trip is more than just a tour of a cycling route. It’s also a chance to explore Japanese food culture. From this moment forward, Wakasa Bay is no longer unfamiliar to me Tonight, I’m staying in a tatami (Japanese-style) room. Let’s check out the bathroom. Alright. This is awesome! So cool! Day one. After a long journey, I finally arrived in Obama City. It was already nighttime when I got here. We checked into a seaside hotel. Shikisai-no-Yado Hanatsumi. With the guidance of the Saba Kaido route, we knew we’d be arriving in a city near the Sea of Japan. We knew we’d be enjoying local seafood over the next few days. Once we had a clear sense of direction, I was able to truly relax in the evening. and savor the exquisite dinner prepared by the inn. This was a study tour. It lasted five days. During the trip, we had sessions with Japanese officials responsible for promoting bicycle paths. We also visited organizations involved in developing cycling routes, including their offices. We also toured local attractions. So, over the course of the five days, we only had cycling activities on two of them. Specifically, the second and third days. Even though the forecast called for a high chance of rain on both days, I was really hoping it would stay dry. That way, I could really enjoy the experience. This route is soon to be designated as a national cycling route in Japan. When I woke up early in the morning, the weather was cloudy, but luckily, it didn’t rain. After we finished breakfast, CEO Mei-Wen gave a gift to Ms. Fujita, who welcomed us, as well as to Ms. Kuwabara, and a small present to our lead rider, Akira. After having a casual chat with the hotel owner We toured the hotel’s bike-friendly amenities Did you get your bike from here yesterday? That’s right Oh, really? So, So this is the washing machine? Yes Wow, that’s awesome! Okay It probably keeps blowing air It should be blowing air nonstop Shoe deodorizer Hotels in Taiwan should probably… See? I’ll let you handle the negotiations. Right? We really should teach them. Exactly. That’s really considerate. You can talk to them. Exactly. That’s super practical. It even comes with leather soles. Exactly. We also visited places in Obama City. Wakasa Jinguji Temple was founded in 714 AD This shrine is absolutely beautiful. And it’s incredibly old. They even arranged a professional guide for us. It’s kind of like that. That one… is the princess. Okay. So one is for women. And one is for men. Two different ones… A married couple. A married couple. After the tour, We’re finally about to start cycling in Japan. This isn’t my first time biking in Japan. So besides taking in the scenery, I also kept our mission for this trip in mind. I paid close attention to the signs and markings along the bike path. And the overall experience. Compared to Taiwan, The bike lane markings and signs here are pretty straightforward. The way everything is laid out just makes sense. Plus, we have a guide leading our ride. That makes cycling here really relaxing. Even though our morning ride was pretty short, we stopped by a spot in Obama City, “Wakasa Kohama Food Culture Center” I thought the museum was excellent. It gives a really thorough introduction to Japanese food culture. It also explained the Saba Kaido, or ‘Mackerel Road,’ which helped me get my bearings. Yesterday, I flew in by plane. Then we switched vehicles and arrived in Kyoto. After we got in the car in Kyoto, We followed the Saba Kaido route. Lake Biwa was on our right. We continued along the Saba Kaido. We were traveling by car. And kept heading south. Then I went to “Kumagawa-juku” After that, we entered Obama City. And this morning, We started out from ‘Onyu’. Set off. Then we rode our bikes to Obama. Now we’ve arrived at the museum. This allowed us to continue our journey. The implementation of “Wakasa Coating” wooden chopsticks We got hands-on with traditional Japanese crafts If any cyclists are interested in this I strongly recommend you come and see it for yourself I’ll include details about this place in the description below After visiting the museum Our lead rider Akira brought us to the starting point of the Saba Kaido We even bumped into the Mayor of Obama City, who happened to be walking by Mr. Sugimoto When he found out we were from Taiwan He not only handed us his business card He also warmly took photos with all of us Talk about good luck! Since we’re exploring Japanese food culture Lunch time. Naturally, we had the region’s most popular seafood. We went to a well-known local restaurant. Seeing this huge bowl of food, I didn’t care that I hadn’t burned many calories that morning. I finished it anyway. After lunch, we continued on our way. The afternoon route is to ride on the “Wakasa Bay Bicycle Path” It’s on the coastline to the west of Obama City. The coastal views along the way were absolutely stunning. But when we reached the area near Wada Fishing Port, it started pouring. We had to stop because of the rain, but we unexpectedly found ourselves at a nearby shrine. We stumbled upon a local festival. The sound of drums filled the air. Along with the heartfelt shouts of the people. It warmed up the chilly atmosphere. It was an incredible experience. It reminded me of cycling in Taiwan. Running into temple festivals in the countryside. Or coming across Harvest Festivals or Ear-Shooting Ceremonies in indigenous villages. These are the best chances to experience local culture. That’s why everyone cherishes them. There’s a cave just up ahead. It’s called ‘Mingjing Cave.’ ‘Ming’ as in ‘tomorrow’. And ‘jing’ as in ‘mirror.’ As its name implies, ‘Mingjing Cave’ It means the water there should be as clear as a mirror. When the water is still, Some people joke that its name sounds like ‘Democratic Progressive Party’ in Taiwanese. ‘Democratic Progressive Party’ (in Taiwanese) I thought that was pretty funny. Since it started raining, we decided to drive here instead. It’s a famous local spot. Mingjing Cave Before we came, I checked Google Maps and saw a review that I found really funny. I shared it with my Japanese friends when we arrived. Once they understood the wordplay, they burst out laughing. I’m sure they’ll share this joke with others in the future. especially with Taiwanese travelers who visit after us. That wrapped up today’s adventure. By evening, we arrived in Takahama Town at a beachfront inn. This place has a really modern, stylish vibe. We listened to the owner introduce the place, and were impressed to find that the rooftop featured a barrel sauna and an open-air bath with a view. Too bad the weather wasn’t great today, otherwise, taking a soak under the stars and sipping some drinks would have been such a treat. We had dinner at a spot right next to the inn, which is a local favorite. We had a meal at an Italian restaurant. We met with the local business representative. We also had dinner with other local industry professionals. In this pleasantly cool weather, we enjoyed a cheerful and cozy evening. Today marks the third day of our visit to Japan. In the morning, we first took a car to Tsuruga City. We visited Kehi Jingu Shrine, which was established in 702 AD. It is a torii gate called “Qi Bi Jingu” is one of the three most famous torii gates in Japan. Here, the shrine priests performed a blessing for us. We took part in the prayer ceremony. and gave us a keepsake to take home. Tamagushi prayer offering at Kehi Shrine and instructed us to place it somewhere high in our home to bless and protect our household Then we started our ride right from here Yesterday, we started out from Obama City and rode along the west side of the Wakasa Bay Bicycle Path This morning, we began from Tsuruga City, the easternmost point and headed west If you follow If you ride the “Wakasa Bay Bicycle Path” you can actually just look at the ground for the blue guide line it’s very easy to see It’s really clear where you need to turn. So you won’t get lost. Of course, it’s best to use it together with Google Maps—it makes things even better. This time, the organizers set us up with Giant e-bikes. Since most of the route was pretty flat, I didn’t turn on the electric assist. Honestly, the bike was really easy to ride. Even though it’s a bit on the heavy side, the gears and everything else were actually pretty smooth. So it was super comfortable to ride. And aside from yesterday, Yesterday, there was a section of the route with an uphill climb. That part was a bit steeper. I didn’t have enough gears for that. So I turned on the electric assist. So it was still manageable to ride. I still got the exercise benefit. You get both. You enjoy the scenery and get some exercise. It was a great ride. Not long after leaving Kehi Shrine, we arrived at one of Japan’s three famous pine groves, Kehi Matsubara. I was really curious. Why is there such a huge pine forest here? I found out after asking around. These are just like the casuarina trees you often see along Taiwan’s coastline. It’s a windbreak forest designed to keep out sand and wind. This instantly makes me think of Taitung is a forest park located on the banks of Beinan Creek There, to guard against the northeast monsoon, which stirs up sand from the riverbed, and blows it into downtown Taitung, they planted casuarina trees everywhere. After careful landscaping and planning, it turned into a beautiful park. The scenery is just as stunning as it is here. But here, it’s a bay, with the added bonus of a wide sandy beach. Walking here is incredibly soothing. So if you’re a cyclist visiting the Wakasa Bay Bike Path, You absolutely have to check out the pine forests and beaches here. You’ll find it hard to leave. After enjoying an eel rice lunch, We started by visiting the Mihama Town Tourism Promotion Office. “Wakasa Mihama Tourism Association” We toured their facilities. Right next to the JR train station, there’s a spot where you can rent bikes. Then we got ready for the main event of our trip, the Mikata Five Lakes. We first headed to the shores of Mikata Lake, “Fukui Prefectural New Year Stripe Museum” visit This is displayed on a 45-meter-long glass panel. It showcases the mud strata from the bottom of Mikata Lake. Allowing visitors to see evidence of volcanic eruptions firsthand. And records of climate change. It’s truly unique. Its impressive scale is awe-inspiring. After learning about the local geology and environment, Once we had a basic understanding, We finally embarked on the much-anticipated A route said to rival Taiwan’s Sun Moon Lake, The Mikata Five Lakes cycling trail. After soaking in the peaceful lakeside cycling route, That evening, we stayed at a place connected to Wakasa Bay, A guesthouse located at the outlet of Lake Hyuga. According to the itinerary here, there was supposed to be a discussion session in the evening. I originally thought it would be a formal, serious meeting. But to my surprise, it was with people from Mihama Town, including the mayor and council members of Wakasa Town, as well as professors and others. It turned out to be a delightful dinner with many Japanese hosts. The table was filled with a feast of local seafood. I was truly grateful for the organizers’ thoughtful arrangements. During our conversations, I was impressed by their efforts to promote the ‘Wakasa Bay Cycling Route’ and moved by their passion to make it a national-level cycling route. Since we had finished the cycling experience, And since this trip is all about evaluating the bike path, I’ve gathered some observations over the past two days that I’d like to share with everyone. The marking of the “Wakasa Bay Bicycle Path” and the signage is designed with clear logic, so it’s easy to follow without getting lost. Roads in Japan are generally narrower than those in Taiwan, but drivers tend to follow the rules, and they keep a safe distance when passing cyclists, so riding here doesn’t feel too stressful. However, when there are cars coming from both directions, it can feel pretty cramped and stressful. This is especially noticeable inside tunnels. Luckily, most of the Wakasa Bay Cycling Road runs through rural areas, so this isn’t a major concern. There are hardly any railings along the Mikata Goko lakeside loop road. The bike path on the riverbank is the same way. So the view is wide open. If a lakeside bike path like this were in Taiwan, they would definitely put up tall railings, and they’d probably be pretty unattractive. It might look safer, but you’d lose both the beauty and the view. What stresses me out more are the roadside ditches. Since the road and the shoulder are both narrow, a lot of the roadside ditches aren’t covered. So when a car passes close by, you really have to stay alert and keep a firm grip on the handlebars. to prevent accidentally riding into a ditch after experiencing the visit firsthand plus my previous experiences traveling to Japan from certain perspectives, Taiwan’s bike paths are actually even better than those in Japan of course, there are also areas where they fall short or go overboard I hope that through these observations everyone can learn by observing each other and use each other’s strengths to make up for weaknesses so that the cycling environments in both Japan and Taiwan can get even better on day four in the morning, we planned to ride a boat powered by solar energy a battery-powered electric boat for a lake cruise when the boat reached the center of the lake Taking in the stunning scenery all around. Suddenly, I felt something completely different. I immediately turned to CEO Meiwen, who was standing next to me, and asked her. Have you ever been on a boat at Sun Moon Lake? I have. So now, being on a boat here, Let me ask you. Something just popped into my mind. Do you feel anything different between the two places? Because when I was at Sun Moon Lake, There was one time I felt uncomfortable. It was because of the smell. That’s right. Same here. Because I had that experience before. This was a shoot organized by the Tourism Bureau. So we rented a private boat. And of course, when you rent a private boat… It should be really comfortable, in theory. But I felt uncomfortable the whole way. It was because of the smell. I get motion sickness on boats. So you should be fine now. I’m totally fine now. Technically, I was just about to say, Oh man, I have to be on this for an hour. That’s pretty rough. But once I sat down, it was actually comfortable. So this feeling… You probably can’t really see it through the video. You have to experience it in person. Because at that moment, you can smell it. The real scent of the lake. Not just the diesel smell you get along the way. Yeah, and visually it’s really relaxing. It’s so open and spacious. I didn’t expect you to feel the same way I do. That feeling. That feeling we had wasn’t exactly beautiful. No, I mean the smell. That physical sensation. Amazing. After we finished touring the lake, we took the cable car next. We ascended to a spot about 400 meters above sea level. the summit of Mount Baijodake. There’s a Rainbow Road Summit Park here. From here, you can take in the views all around. the stunning scenery of Mikata Five Lakes and Wakasa Bay is spread out before you. It’s especially moving after cycling around the lakes and then coming up here. It makes the experience even more touching. In the afternoon, we also visited the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum, and “Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum” At first, I hadn’t really looked into the sightseeing plans for the fourth day in much detail. But after experiencing it firsthand, I think whether you’re cruising the lake on an electric boat, or riding the cable car up to the mountaintop, taking in the views of the Mikata Five Lakes and the coastline, or even exploring a museum with impressive exhibits, which is one of the world’s premier dinosaur museums, “Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum” they’re all absolutely worth a visit. So make sure you don’t miss these when you come. The sun finally came out on the day we were leaving. Oh no, Thank you, that’s wonderful! Hi, boss! Wow, that was quick! Our trip is wrapping up after these few days. We’ve arrived at Komatsu Airport. We’re getting ready to fly back to Taiwan. During this visit, I noticed the CEO also gave the Japanese side a lot of suggestions and guidance. And throughout this process, I learned a lot as well. So finally, I wonder if the CEO has any advice for Taiwanese cyclists or any suggestions? Actually, many cities in Japan are actively promoting cycling. This time, the route we rode was the Wakasa Bay Cycling Path. It’s 126 kilometers long. It’s a pity because of our itinerary. We couldn’t ride the whole thing. But if you’re like me, and you love ocean views, You’ll definitely have a great time. This “Wakasa Bay Bicycle Path” Absolutely, the ocean there is incredible. And the Mikata Five Lakes are breathtaking too. Yes. I could tell you really enjoyed that spot. Since we took the cable car up. Yeah. It’s the kind of place you never want to leave. I could’ve spent the whole afternoon there. Everything’s good over there. Yes. What about the rest? There’s so much more beyond that. The local culture and traditions. That’s what made this trip for us… We really learned a ton. Exactly. So I really recommend it to everyone. If you get the chance, come bike in Fukui Prefecture. And use cycling as a way to connect. To interact with our Japanese friends. Yeah, that’s a key point. I hope cycling in both Taiwan and Japan continues to thrive. OK. It’s a win-win! Alright, thank you, Director.
原本對日本福井縣印象是完全陌生,直到踏上「若狹灣自行車道」,才發現這條沿著日本海蜿蜒的道路,不只是美麗的海岸線,更是一條串起地方文化、歷史與生活記憶的「文化之路」。
這趟參訪讓我看見日本地方在「道路設計」與「文化保存」上的細膩用心,也讓我想起北海岸的「魚路古道」起點,同樣以食文化為脈絡,連結海與城市、地方與旅人。「若狹灣自行車道」不只是旅遊路線,更是一場關於地方、文化與人之間的深度對話。
希望這支影片,能讓更多台灣車友認識日本地方的魅力,也為未來的台日自行車文化交流,開啟新的想像。
「若狹灣自行車道」官方網站
https://www.fuku-e.com/wakacycle-tw/index.html
財團法人自行車新文化基金會
https://www.cycling-lifestyle.org.tw/
—————————————————
此行之景點、旅宿、餐廳
御食國若狹與鯖街道
https://www1.city.obama.fukui.jp/japan_heritage/story/?lang=OC
熊川宿
https://kumagawa-juku.com/
四季彩之宿 花椿
https://www.urban-port.jp/hanatsubaki/
小濱市神宮寺
https://www1.city.obama.fukui.jp/kanko-bunka/jisha-shiseki/84.html
四季彩館 酔月
https://www.urban-port.jp/suigetsu/
WAKASA SURFHOTEL iL mare
義大利餐廳 「LA ILMARE」
https://www.ilmare.info/
氣比神宮
https://kehijingu.jp/
氣比松原
https://tsuruga-kanko.jp/lang/kehi-no-matsubara/?lg=zhtw
鰻魚美浜
https://tabelog.com/tw/fukui/A1803/A180302/18009409/
旅館 入舟
https://www.mihamanoyado.jp/
美濱町湖濱中心(Lake Center)電池推進遊覽船
三方五湖彩虹線(Rainbow Line)
https://mikatagoko.com/
「人道之港 敦賀博物館(Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum)」
https://tsuruga-museum.jp/
福井縣立恐龍博物館
https://www.dinosaur.pref.fukui.jp/
#福井縣 #若狹灣自行車道 #日本國家級自行車道
4 Comments
每次看Eddie哥的影片,都有種深深的使命感。不只是推動自行車運動、觀光、旅遊,這樣簡單的目的而已,還有更深一層的意涵。
好棒的考察!在台灣我最怕的就是馬路上刷卡的汽機車,但是這就是台灣的道路駕駛教育,長期以來沒有注重的關係⋯⋯
好棒的跨國腳踏車外交之旅分享,看來台灣日月潭柴油郵艇,本人每搭必嘔😅 ,可以開始升級像日本這種“太陽能遊艇了啦”
而且像右
有腳踏車道的各水庫環湖遊艇都該有這樣太陽能電動船選項~讓遊湖更能享空氣品質的舒服體驗~🏞️🚴🛥️❤👍😊
以前看过一本西村幸夫《再造魅力故乡》很有意思。