문학과 힐링이 만나는 도쿄 산책 – 다자이 오사무의 미타카를 걷다 📖

문학과 힐링이 만나는 도쿄 산책 – 다자이 오사무의 미타카를 걷다 📖

This is Kichijoji Station. Today, I’m planning to take a stroll around Mitaka. Mitaka Station is the very next stop after Kichijoji. Normally, when tourists come to Mitaka, it’s usually to visit the Ghibli Museum. Especially Inokashira Park, where the Ghibli Museum is located, has a pond where you can ride boats, and even a small but charming zoo. So, many people also come to visit Inokashira Park. But today, I have a slightly different route in mind. Mitaka is also a place where some of Japan’s greatest literary figures left behind their footprints in the history of Japanese literature. So I’ll be tracing their legacy as I explore the area. We’ve arrived at Mitaka Station. This station is served by the JR Chuo and Sobu Lines. It first opened in 1930, so this year marks its 95th anniversary! It’s like a gateway to the western suburbs of Tokyo. But aside from the museum and park I just mentioned, not many tourists come here for sightseeing. However, for those who want to feel the local culture, this place offers a truly relaxing experience. And what I’d like to introduce today is… the great Japanese modern writer Osamu Dazai. He lived in Mitaka for many years while writing his works. His most famous novels include The Setting Sun and No Longer Human. Right in front of the station, there’s the “Mitaka City Art Gallery.” Inside, you’ll find the “Osamu Dazai Exhibition Room – This Small House in Mitaka,” where a part of the house he lived in is recreated. Here you can get a glimpse into both his daily life and literary world. (I couldn’t film inside, so here are only photos…) Apparently, he also had talent in painting, not just writing. Osamu Dazai. He was born into a wealthy family, but from a young age, he experienced wandering and setbacks, and immersed himself in literature. He left behind many works, including No Longer Human and The Setting Sun, before passing away at a young age. A few years ago, a film about him was also released, focusing on his complex relationships with women while exploring his psychology and inner struggles. When you read his works, you’ll find themes of life’s struggles and the emptiness of human existence expressed through raw, brutally honest self-confessional writing. This building here is the site of the Nakahachi residence, which he used as his study. Without the information board, it would be hard to even notice. It’s said that he wrote several works here as well. If you walk back toward the station and head a bit south, you’ll find the site where his lover, Tomie Yamazaki, once lodged. Here too, only an information board remains. It’s said that the two of them left their farewell letters here, put their belongings in order, and then late at night, walked toward the Tamagawa Aqueduct. It’s a rather heavy story, but… Osamu Dazai lived here in Mitaka for seven years, leaving behind many literary works. As we continue walking down the road, we reach the former site of “Isemoto Tavern,” a place Dazai often visited. It used to be a hub for socializing and exchanging ideas, and today, it has been reborn as a literary café called the “Osamu Dazai Literary Salon,” where locals also gather. In Japanese, we often use the word “shayō” (setting sun) to describe decline or downfall. Dazai’s novel The Setting Sun uses this metaphor, likening the fall of the aristocracy to the sinking evening sun. This novel gave rise to a new word, “Shayō-zoku” (“The Setting Sun Tribe”), and the kanji “斜陽” (shayō, setting sun) even came to carry the added meaning of “decline.” That shows just how influential the work was. Young people today might not use the word “shayō,” but older generations still use it quite often. This monument here also commemorates him. And in fact, Mitaka was not only home to Osamu Dazai, but also to the novelist and playwright Yūzō Yamamoto, the poet Chūya Nakahara, and many other literary figures who were active in this area. How should I put it… Mitaka feels like an “intellectual and artistic suburban town,” with an atmosphere of dignity and refinement. And as you walk around, you stumble upon all kinds of interesting spots. There are izakaya where you could grab a drink even in the daytime, little diners, shaved ice shops, and dango (rice dumpling) stalls. Ah, this particular shop looks quite famous. Since it’s summer, they’re selling shaved ice too, but it seems they’re especially renowned for their dango. Wow, looks like it’s often featured in magazines as well. Here’s a small shopping alley in a quiet residential area with about five or six shops. I love this kind of atmosphere—it’s so charming. It almost feels like one of those old “yokocho” (back alleys) in Japan. That one spot we just passed really looked like a yokocho, but once you step through, it turns into a quiet little lane like this. The streets here aren’t winding like in Setagaya; they’re more straight and direct. But honestly, I get lost more easily on streets like these! (laughs) At the end of this road, you’ll find Zenrin-ji Temple. At first glance, it’s a quiet, elegant temple. But every year on June 19th, the anniversary of Dazai’s death, many readers visit his grave, and a memorial event called the “Dazai Festival” is held. And it makes sense, because… this is where his grave is located. Here it is. So this is more than just a temple— it’s a literary sacred ground because it houses Osamu Dazai’s grave, and it forms an important part of Mitaka’s cultural identity. If you walk a little east from the temple, you’ll come across a café decorated with Dazai’s logo. Until recently, this café was in an old building, but due to demolition plans, it moved next door. This café was originally “Matsui Shoten,” a shop that sold alcohol and tobacco, and it’s said that Osamu Dazai often stopped by here. After transforming from a regular shop into a café, they emphasized its connection with Dazai, and it eventually became a popular spot among literature fans. Since moving here, the café mainly roasts coffee beans, but they also serve coffee to waiting customers. The “Dazai Coffee” they sell here is often described as rich, bitter, and very much a “grown-up taste.” Many reviews highlight that impression. I do feel the bitterness is quite strong! (laughs) After finishing a chilled iced coffee and stepping back outside, I suddenly feel light on my feet. From the café, I head north through a small lane. After a short walk, I find… a crape myrtle tree (sarusuberi), which has become a local highlight. When in bloom, the tree looks like this— and it was actually transplanted here from Dazai’s former residence. It’s a shame the flowers aren’t blooming now, even though it’s their season. It seems this place is managed by the Mitaka Cultural Association, “Ishintei,” but since it’s not a tourist spot, it feels a bit difficult to casually enter. Mitaka really is a town with so many traces of Osamu Dazai. And if you keep walking east along this alley, you’ll come out at Inokashira Park. This is one of Mitaka’s most popular attractions, the Ghibli Museum. I’ve been here several times myself. The Totoro doll my nephew loved so much is still there, welcoming visitors as always. Unlike an amusement park, which feels artificial, the Ghibli Museum feels like a real place that has always existed— instantly bringing to mind the world of Ghibli films. A world of magic, of flying through the sky… it’s a place where you can lose yourself inside a movie for a while. Next time, I’d love to make a reservation and visit properly. Here you’ll also find the robot soldier from Laputa: Castle in the Sky. Although Director Hayao Miyazaki has retired, and Studio Ghibli hasn’t released new films for some time, I truly hope they’ll return with another masterpiece. Now, let’s take a stroll through Inokashira Park. Both Kichijoji and Mitaka have long been home to many writers and entertainers. And of course, that’s still true today. Perhaps it’s because of these calm forests and serene ponds that writers and artists drew so much inspiration here. Leaving the park, I head back toward the station. This path you see here is called “The Wind’s Path” (Kaze no Sanpomichi). Beside it flows the Tamagawa Aqueduct. Along the way, you’ll also spot the Yūzō Yamamoto Memorial Hall, dedicated to the author famous for realist novels and plays, who also played a role in postwar Japanese politics. Walking further down the Wind’s Path, you’ll find a monument built with stone brought from Aomori, Dazai’s hometown, in memory of him. It’s called “Gyokuroku-seki,” a stone with a unique pattern, its name suggesting gems embedded within its surface. So, why is this stone placed here? The answer lies in a small park just next to it. This is where Dazai took his life, together with his lover, Tomie Yamazaki. On the information board, you’ll find an excerpt from his work Beggar Student, where he refers to the Tamagawa Aqueduct as a “tunnel of fresh green leaves.” Among all the places along the aqueduct that he loved, perhaps he chose this, his favorite spot, as his final resting place. Though calm now, back then it was a swift, rushing waterway. Throughout his life, he wavered between literary genius and self-destructive tendencies, yet he is often described as a writer who transformed defeat and helplessness into literature. Had he lived longer, perhaps a different literary world would have emerged. But because he passed away so young, at the age of just 38, his works remain etched in our minds with an even stronger, lasting impression. That’s why, in Japan, Dazai is sometimes called “the tragic genius of the Showa era.” So, how did you enjoy this slightly different walk through Mitaka? Now, I’m taking the Inokashira Line to Shimokitazawa, where I’ll have a light drink before heading home. Here we are at a budget-friendly izakaya in Shimokitazawa. I suddenly felt like drinking at a casual standing bar. Heh, it’s definitely not a quiet place. I often come to Shimokitazawa, but this is my first time at this particular spot. Sapporo Beer—cheers! Here’s the appetizer that came with the drink. What pairs best with beer, I wonder? I ordered some deep-fried octopus. A combo that never disappoints! (laughs) And of course, I ordered yakitori too! I was really craving skewers with a Korean-style sauce. It reminds me of my days working in Korea, when I’d stop by a food stall after work for yakitori and soju. It was so delicious… and that flavor is still vivid in my memory. Haha, and here’s some Napolitan pasta too— I really love this dish. I do wonder how Italians would feel about it, though. They also had horse sashimi on the menu, so I gave it a try. It reminded me of my trip to Kumamoto, where it’s a specialty. Eating it with sweet Kyushu soy sauce—what an incredible flavor. And here’s motsu nikomi—pork offal stewed in miso. It’s such a humble yet distinctly Japanese dish. The rich miso broth with the chewy offal is really delicious. This kind of dish is a staple at izakaya. Looking at the menu, I noticed quite a few surprisingly fresh options. Like the horse sashimi I just ordered—and even raw oysters. They’re fresh oysters from Hyogo Prefecture. I suppose they were harvested near Kobe. And they even had sashimi platters! Tokyo has been cooling down a bit in the mornings and evenings lately. But the news says, “This is the hottest September ever.” I hope you all stay healthy as summer comes to an end. Thank you so much for watching until the very end today. See you again next time!

도쿄의 복잡함에서 벗어나 미타카의 고요한 거리를 산책하며, 일본의 대표 작가 다자이 오사무의 발자취를 따라가 봅니다.
이 영상에서는 미타카역, 다자이 오사무 문학 살롱, 지브리 미술관, 그리고 이노카시라 공원까지 이어지는 산책 코스를 함께 걷습니다.
문학, 예술, 자연이 어우러진 미타카에서의 하루. 일본 여행을 계획 중이라면 꼭 참고하세요!
#미타카산책 #도쿄여행 #다자이오사무 #TokyoVlog #GhibliMuseum

📌 타임라인
00:00 인트로
02:31 다자이 오사무 전시실
05:07 다자이 오사무 문학살롱
08:24 다자이 오사무의 묘지
09:15 마츠이 커피숍
10:45 다지이 오사무의 백일홍
11:46 미타카의 숲 지브리 미술관
14:06 바람 산책길 산책
16:45 시모키타자와에서 저녁식사

🍽 추천 맛집
Matsui coffee shop
https://maps.app.goo.gl/mz3UACbwvTs4gVis8
Mantensakaba
https://maps.app.goo.gl/tXQfmvkMKYuph6Fa8

📷 촬영 장비
카메라: Nikon Z6III
렌즈: TAMRON 28-75mm F/2.8 Di III VXD G2
보조 촬영: iPhone 13

🎥 다른 여행 브이로그도 보러 오세요!
👉 도쿄 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCpIG2pAiieLNd16_4XI7wrf
👉 오사카 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCoTH7tZZhtDV2fQBlgzobDk
👉 오키나와 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCr44TOXdOJ_OqWcmVjl6345
👉 일본 추천 여행지: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCqvs-Y8jC5gYqJlRrnlu_tm
👉 대만 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCoEgcPnbbBSnG8IcsCsEsGl
👉 프랑스 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCr9NhuVC5YijSeQGfYhebir
👉 태국 방콕 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCpGEDuKGcPupGGTaL4EY4n8
👉 이탈리아 여행: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyI8QXTALJCrvuBAaDXZ2Jzr7dGVB5NnC

🎵 BGM 정보
사용 음악: Artlist 음원
가입 링크: https://artlist.io/LEE-3783075
(△ 링크를 통해 가입하면 추가 2개월 무료 혜택을 받을 수 있어요!)

🎥 구독과 좋아요는 저에게 큰 힘이 됩니다!
🔔 알림 설정하고 도쿄 여행 시리즈 놓치지 마세요!