Comment BUENOS AIRES est-elle devenue le cœur CULTUREL de l’ARGENTINE ? | Documentaire Voyage – AMP
Buenos Aires evokes tango, football, the best meat in the world,
but above all a mixture of European elegance tinged
with South American passion. While the name Evita evokes a certain era when the city’s grandeur
shone throughout the world. But deep down,
few people abroad really know Buenos Aires beyond
the postcard images. So, let’s discover this city which is full of surprises
and good humor. The city of Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina’s economic centers
, embodied the emergence of this country between the end of the 18th
and the middle of the 20th century. The beauty and grandeur of some buildings still bear witness
to this era. Twice the size of Paris,
you never stop visiting and discovering the thousand
facets of this city. The diversity of its architecture reflects all the influences
that have shaped Argentina. Casa Rossada, the Pink House, is where the President
of the Argentine Republic governs. It is located in the Plaza de Mayo 25,
which is a founding site for Buenos Aires and the nation,
since it was in the Cabildo, located opposite the Pink House,
that the revolutionaries took advantage of the defeat of the King of Spain against
Napoleon to obtain independence and write the Constitution
of the provinces of the Rio de la Plata. It was built in 1610, the first time, then in 1711,
a second time, in a more solid manner. Construction of Casa Rosada began
in 1873. The main entrance opens onto a sumptuous
patio called the Hall of Honor. The
gallery of busts, all in marble, runs along the patio to the second
entrance of the Casa Rosada. It is traditional to sculpt the bust
of presidents at the end of their terms. The French-style staircase leads to the upper floor
where the lounges follow one another. Of all, the White Room is the most remarkable, with its central chandelier
weighing 1,250 kilos and its 192 lamps. This is where the president gives his press conferences,
broadcast throughout the country. Argentina’s most iconic couple , Juan and Eva Peron,
are on display in front of the Eva Peron Room. It was here that she reached the famous balcony, from where she addressed
a population won over by her passion. His portrait remains forever etched on the widest avenue in
South America, Nueve de Julio. And since Argentina never forgets its idols, the visit ends with
portraits of Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer,
Fangio, five-time Formula 1 world champion,
Mafalda, a comic strip character, and of course, Maradona, the
undeniable pride of national football. Another emblematic building in the Plaza
de Macho is the Metropolitan Cathedral. Nights of arrows, it has all the hallmarks of a Greek temple, while the interior
combines Baroque and Roman styles. It is impossible to define this building, especially since one can also perceive
an undeniable Spanish colonial scent. It owes this originality to the many architects who succeeded one another
over almost 200 years. It was not until the 20th century that the Metropolitan Cathedral
was considered complete. It houses the mausoleum of
the nation’s liberating hero, General San Martin, whom the Guards of the Republic
protect and honor. After enjoying the architectural delights of the city center,
San Telmo is usually the starting point for enjoying the diversity
of the city’s neighborhoods. It is the smallest, but also the best known thanks
to the typical character of its period facades and its
Sunday flea market. Efensa Street is a kilometer-
long stretch of street vendors selling
regional crafts and antiques. Already, tango dominates at all times,
among the youngest and the oldest. I am 80 years old. The cradle of tango
is here, in San Telmo. The atmosphere is always warm. Every 300 meters, a
new spectacle is offered to the eyes of strollers. The old covered market, built in 1897,
serves fresh produce as well as restaurants
and shops. The neighborhood is full of old hidden houses that housed
immigrant families. They have been converted
into sumptuous shopping malls. It is the best-
preserved area of the city. It owes its name to the church of San Pedro
Telmo, built by the Jesuit order in 1734, before it was
expelled from the country by the King of Spain. Argentina was born 400 meters from here,
on the Rio de la Plata. The first pirates left from here. Waves of Europeans arrived in succession, with the Spanish
first and the Italians second. It is the mixture of these two cultures that formed the identity of the Porteno, the
nickname given to the inhabitants of the city. And this is also why Buenos Aires is the most European
of South American capitals. To fully experience the culture of this city, it is essential
to take a tour of where it all began. The Mouth. This neighborhood was not a tourist attraction until recently,
but it has become proof that the excellence of a single artist can
change the world through their work. Quinquela Martin
is the official painter of La Boca. He is practically the creator of La Boca. A visit to the museum dedicated to him during his break before
wandering around La Boca. Abandoned as a child and taken
into a local convent, Quinquela Martin was passionate about
painting and bright colors. His works, mostly executed with a spatula, represent dockers, the
work of his adoptive parents, and his neighborhood, which he set about
repainting as he dreamed it. The Arc Painting Restaurant With
the remains of the various paint pots lying around the port,
he painted the walls one after the other, giving the district
its current appearance. La Boca is a concentration of Porteigneaux cultures and its colors
now shine throughout the world. This neighborhood is a perfect reflection of Argentine ingenuity, which
skillfully transformed a difficult situation to its advantage
with the means at hand. Here, everyone considers Quinquela Martín as the father
and savior of the mouth. He blew up the neighborhood, transforming it into a
must-see tourist center. Of course, it is also the temple of football,
with its famous club Boca Junior, where the soul of Maradona, also from the
poor neighborhoods, hovers forever. Never in more than a century of existence has
the club left the summits of the Argentine elite with 31 victories
in the national championship. La Bombonera has become a legendary stadium, just like that of its
eternal rival, the River Plate club, located
in the privileged neighborhoods. A typical contrast to the city
of Buenos Aires, a few hundred meters away,
the Puerto Madero district displays its opulence and
unsuspected technical prowess. Because the Rio de la Plata was not deep enough to reach its
shores and allow the city to continue its development,
the architect Eduardo Madero was entrusted in 1882 with the creation of an
artificial island of 350 hectares. This is how the port of Madeiro was born,
which continues to break records today, since the towers that have been
built there for several years represent the largest investment
in the country’s history. It is in fact the most expensive and
most airy district of the city. The bridges that allow travel between the island and the mainland pivot,
just like the latest one, el puente de la mujer,
literally the woman’s bridge. Built in 1998, it has become
one of the symbols of the city. The frigate Sarmiento joins forces with the Puente de la Mujer to beautify
the canal bordered by old mills. At night, Puerto Madero
reveals another face. Facing the frigate,
we come to taste the famous Argentinian grilled meat,
famous throughout the world. Traditionally,
it is cooked in the Paricha, that is to say above the embers,
on a grill with a purely local design. Las Lilas Restaurant
has an estancia with its own cows and is the perfect place to discover
the secrets of Argentine cuisine. Here we eat everything in the cow,
titulin or even mochara, a plant that is found
in the neck and in the heart. We cook them in the oven with vegetables and sparkling wine,
which helps to remove the fat. Then we put them in paricha
so that they are nice and creamy. Then we have sausages and
black pudding which are typical of Argentina. There are pieces that you can’t find outside of Uruguay and
Argentina, like the entraña. It is a part stuck to the ribs with
only two pieces per animal. We just cook it with sea salt. It’s very tender. The chops, called assado,
add a lot of flavor to the cooking. We serve pieces between 350 and 400 grams and others that are to share
and are between 650 and 700 grams. Even this special beef rib
that weighs 1.1 kilos. We let the meat rest for
21 days in a cold room. Maturation enriches its taste
and gives it tenderness. Thanks to this delay, the taste
evolves and intensifies. Whatever cut of meat you choose,
it is essential to accompany it with a Malbec, a very popular wine in Argentina
made from a French grape variety. And for dessert, you
can’t miss Dulce de Leche, the delicious
milk cream that’s ubiquitous throughout the country. In this city that never sleeps,
the evening is just beginning. On Cordoba Avenue, between the Shakarita
and Collegiales neighborhoods, a few hundred meters from Palermo,
Hollywood, Nancy teaches the basics of tango to both porteños
and curious tourists. Sideways, forward, you come
back with the same foot. Forward, forward and backward,
sideways and there you go. But the secret of tango lies elsewhere. First, we’ll try the hug
and then we’ll see about the step. How I missed you. It was so long ago.
Perfect. Do you two want to try it, gentlemen? Courage. A very strong hug,
of Latin quality, I would say. Let’s study what happens with the vertical line of the legs
and the diagonal of the torso. We try once more. So, do you feel it? Like a Namaste. The idea is to travel while maintaining contact with the foot on the ground
while slightly anticipating the step. Shall we try it together, Ernesto? Let’s avoid lifting and tapping our
feet on the ground. I’m
not going to ask my partner to step back with their arm because
I’ll be out of my dance. The inventors of the tango are the Portenos and they are renowned for the
quality of their embrace, the abrazo. Knowing how to connect with others in every sense of the word and
never detaching yourself from them. Three lessons are all it takes to get started at the Canning Club,
a meeting place for visitors from all over the world who come together around
their love of the drum. Omar, a key organizer of Milangas Portenos for over 30 years,
tells us about his passion. The best time to come dance
in Buenos Aires is any time of year. You get there and you see this,
it’s like discovering a campfire in the middle of the mountain
with a group of people. It’s the magic of coming together with others around something. Here, dance reigns. Improvisation and hugging. If there’s anything that transforms you,
it’s hugging. If you want to describe everything that happens during a kiss,
words are not enough. If I want a debutante, a woman to dance, I look at her until she
looks at me. And when she looks at me,
I ask her to dance, don’t I? Look, there, I invite him. This is called “cabecero.” Because it’s a dialogue. They say that man leads,
but it is very relative. It is a dialogue like a game of chess and from this dialogue
the winner of the battle would emerge. In our case, there is no winner, but the possibility
of dialogue, of creation. Tango is an encounter where alchemy
only works if souls connect. Then, everyone’s rhythm is synchronized
and a dialogue is established between the steps that follow one another, the bodies that pivot
on the floor or the couples always move in an anti-
clockwise direction. What you need to know is that you are
signing up for four dances. So, you know that if you don’t feel
comfortable with your partner, after the fourth dance,
there’s like a kind of musical curtain that
will naturally renew the track. Buenos Aires has the reputation of having the most theaters in the world. Corientes Avenue continues to put on
shows for all tastes and takes you until the early hours, without
you even realizing it. To recover from the night’s frenzy, what’s better than a bath in greenery? The Palermo district boasts the city’s largest park,
with 40 hectares of green space carefully designed in the 19th century
by French landscaper Charles d’Aix. He is the designer of most of the country’s parks and his talent
is expressed in his generous and flourishing natural settings,
whatever the season. While Buenos Aires is known for having the highest number of psychoanalysts
per capita in the world, this park remains the best therapy
for these city dwellers. Like every self-respecting setting, it has
its diamond, the Japanese garden. This breath of nature then ends in the Holy
of Holies of Zen. The garden restaurants offer sushi and you can even take home
an exotic plant. During this walk, there is one thing that cannot escape an observer. Argentines spend their time drinking through steel wool dipped
into a container filled with herbs. In fact, much more than a drink,
it is a real ritual. So, what better way than with a group of Porteno friends to discover
the secrets of the famous Argentinian mate. It is the symbol of meetings
between Argentines. If there is a mate, there are
at least two people. Mate is not practiced alone,
it always means company. When we come home from work,
we prepare for the end. And we relax.
This is what mate offers. Here I have a mate with his bichat bomb. Look, you see here, you have different
craft designs to filter the weed. The water must be heated
to eighty degrees. It must not have oil,
otherwise the grass will oxygenate. It burns and the taste changes. We have to do everything again. There are people who put their hand
on the thermos and count to ten. If he doesn’t burn himself, the water
is at the right temperature. Pour three-quarters full,
cover with your hand and tip with a small movement to
bring the powder to the top. Otherwise it gives a bitter taste. Then we put it back in place and the grass
remains with a 45 degree slope. Now is the time to
gently pour the water next to and not onto the grass. Do you see how it goes up? This is because the water passes underneath and
there you let it rest for a few seconds. We install the bombicha,
ready to consume. Health. We do it like this. I take one, pour it, and
move on to the next person. The drinker cannot touch
the bombicha or spread the grass. This is the exclusive domain of the brain. What is the myth of the noise we
have to make at the end? I love making noise. This indicates that it is finished. You have to make the noise at the end
so you don’t leave your leftovers for the other person. You have to end with… Saying thank you is not good. If you drink and want to
continue, don’t say anything. Simply, you receive the mate
from the one who offers it to you. And when you don’t want it anymore,
then you say thank you to the server by giving it back and the server will understand
the messages and won’t give it to you anymore. The mate always goes to the server. If I make a mistake, for example,
and give it back to Ajevea, he has to kiss the mate and give it back
precisely because he made a mistake. No, that’s nonsense. Friendship in Argentina comes
before anything else. It is literally the country’s first and greatest wealth,
apart from perhaps children. Abasto is the
childhood neighborhood of the famous tango singer Carlos Gardel, where the
city’s old central market is located, converted into the largest
shopping center in Buenos Aires. It offers a multitude of brands, all exclusively Argentinian,
and therefore very unique, since they are protected
by the almost total ban on importing competing products
from outside the country. But the unique feature of this center lies
in its entertainment area, which makes it a paradise
for children. In Argentina, the child is king,
so much so that at the supermarket checkout,
it’s an unstoppable phone call. The security guards
will come and invite you to leave the queue and ask you to
go first. Queue management
is very controlled. So, in the event of congestion at a motorway toll,
the barriers will soon open to let
cars pass free of charge. Management companies consider themselves
responsible for traffic jams that they may cause due to their
inefficiency. The history of the Ricoletta district
dates back to the 16th century. He was sold to a Frenchman
for a suit. Ironically, it is now the
most prestigious district of the city. It takes its name from the Franciscans of the Ricolet convent, who built
the church of Notre-Dame de Pilar in 1718. It is the highest and, in fact,
the most ventilated point in the city. This is why the richest chose to settle here from the 19th century,
notably to escape yellow fever. Plaza Francia and its market are a popular spot for walkers
who want to take a break in the sun or listen to artists rehearsing
before performing in town. The Recoleta Cemetery is a must-see where the beauty of the ornaments is combined with the
richness of the stories they tell. Eva Peron is buried here, alongside the most illustrious figures
who have made Argentine history. This labyrinth has so many surprises in store
that it is hard to linger. The range of subtle grays surrounding
the Church of Nuestra Senora del Pilar makes the colors
of its interior explode. The gilding,
reds and blues give the impression of looking at an
18th-century pirate treasure. The Floralis Generica,
which opens and closes with the sun, has established itself in a more
modern, but no less impressive, register. It stands in the middle
of the United States Square. Among the attractions of Buenos Aires, there is one that is worth
moving away from the capital for. Just half an hour from the centre, Hurlingham, a stronghold of the English at the beginning of
the 20th century, saw the birth of what Argentina has been
unbeatable in for almost a century. A
sport where she is even banned from the world championship due
to her undeniable superiority. A sport that is so inaccessible, it is
called the sport of kings. Polo in Argentina
is a registered trademark. It’s like Malbec,
like meat, like tango. If someone lives in Argentina during the month of November or December,
they cannot avoid going to polo. It’s basically four players against four
on horses going 70 km/h. The player hits a ball the size of a billiard ball
that flies at 150 km/h. He rides an animal
that weighs half a ton. This is to say that it is an
extremely dangerous sport. In the end, it’s like a battle. A polo field is about the size of
six football fields. Each player brings between 8 and 10 horses. For eight players, that’s
80 horses per game. All equipment is
designed to protect the player. Boots for riding and protecting the knees,
gloves for the hands, seamstresses, a helmet for the head
and goggles for the eyes. He can get injured
from fighting his opponents. And if this is where the best
polo players on the planet train, it is right opposite the Hurlingham club
that the best polo club is located. When the Sultan of Brunei or other
dignitaries come to Buenos Aires, they never fail to visit this small
family workshop with its unique know-how. In 1999, Prince Charles
came to play at Hurlingham. The only place he wanted to visit was the club, because his father
had come to play 30 years earlier. And Fagliano’s workshop, because his
dad owned Fagliano boots. Tomili Jones came and Will Smith. Here is the King of Spain. This is the arch that gives
the leg its shape. When you go to play polo and you
finish, you put it back the right way up. And it’s to protect her. It ‘s all about protection
and boots are part of that too. Our
great-grandfather came from northern Italy, embarking
at the port of Genoa in 1884. With the creation of the Hurlingham club,
they brought him boots to repair. With all the English present at the club, he studied how to make
polo boots in addition to making shoes. This year we celebrated our 125th birthday with my
father, who was born in the house next door. It is
a family craft workshop that we are proud to have preserved
for five generations. From a very young age, we gradually learn
each step of the profession. Half an hour from the center of Buenos Aires lies a hidden corner of nature little known
to tourists, but well worth the detour. The municipality of Tigre is made up of a cluster of small islands
formed by the sediments of the Parana River delta and extending
over more than 14,000 square kilometers. The first of the remarkable buildings is none other than the former casino which has
been transformed into a museum of modern art. It was Buehnerzer’s first and most famous
gambling establishment. The English community occupies a
key position at the exit of the river station with its famous rowing club for
fishing and kayaking enthusiasts. The Tigre is very popular with Portenos
who love to take a weekend getaway to these islands and disconnect
from the hectic pace of the capital. This is where the
largest amusement park in the country is located. And when residents want to go home, they have to take out of the garage,
not the car, but the boat. The true and courageous islanders who decided to settle in this place,
totally isolated from the city and yet so close, have to live without
running water, electricity or telephone. Yet, there are
now more than 30,000 of them. Visiting the houses, all made of wood and of
course built on stilts, is memorable. Here, there is absolute peace. It is not uncommon to discover a restaurant or a small hotel in the middle
of a river arm. Until recently, the Tigris was
a haven for pirates and smugglers. In
the main branch of the river named after Argentina’s second president,
Sarniente, the deceased’s house has been transformed into a museum and preserved
under a glass cage. Generally,
the houses that are built respect this reference. It is impossible to leave the country without having made contact with
the famous Argentine gauchos. San Antonio de Areco,
an hour from the capital, has always been linked to the defense
and preservation of gaucho culture. This village of 20,000 inhabitants offers an
event linked to tradition almost every week. The horse, the gaucho’s first friend, is of course the star. The parades quickly fill up. Among the symbols,
we find the poncho which is used during the day, but also at night
to sleep in the open air. The sombrero with the red scarf to
protect yourself from the cold and the sun. Leather boots over uniquely cut, well-ventilated pants,
called “bamba cha”. The Facon, a large knife slipped
into the back behind the belt. It is also used to cut
meat during the scene. Finally, the caucho has a face carved by life and by the wind that the Pampa
lets slide from the lands of the South. A great outdoors that offers cowboys the chance to spend time with their
great-grandchildren so that tradition is never
lost in time. The time for celebration comes with the assado. Chamamé, as it is traditionally called, is a constant ballet between pieces
of music and pieces of meat. If I’m not going to cry or laugh, how are you going to stay in your head? When you do like Kingston
and Arriba, that’s how it is. Come on, let’s go.
Come on, let’s go. Everyone dressed up to go dancing and eat
some delicious grilled meat. Less than an hour from the capital,
nature reigns at sea. This deep countryside setting is faithful to the images that Argentina
has always inspired. We lose track of time and let ourselves be captivated by the smallest
details of gaucho culture. The heart of the village of San Antonio de Areco
has managed to preserve the typical facades found in Munozer,
as in the rest of the country. The famous Pulperias have the appearance of a museum, while they
only preserve what has always been. Having a simple coffee turns
into a real spectacle. But a visit to the workshop of Patricio Draghi,
a goldsmith renowned throughout the country, is a must. They carve models of jewelry,
knives and multiple decorative objects, always respecting
the gaucho tradition. In San Antonio de Areco, each student who completes their studies is
given a varichero, that is, a small
gaucho knife with their name engraved on it. This is the knife we give
to the students of San Antonio de Areco. Here, the college logo,
the ebony handle and the rest in silver. Estancia Las Lilas, which raises its own cows for its
restaurant in Puerto Matero, also offers a museum with
a gaucho shop. His collection of period sulcis sits alongside the works of local artist
Florencio Molina Campo, discovered by Walt Disney,
who was intrigued by the unique graphics he used
to humorously document the gauchos. A
little further on, the El Ombu estancia is one of the rare places where you can
spend a day at the rhythm of the gauchos. Horseback riding or
sulqui riding is a must. The obligatory assado is followed by an invitation to
traditional dancing. Eating, singing, dancing and taking the time to meet travelers from all over the world
is the gift that the Gauchos give. They have developed the art of escaping from everyday life to enjoy
the present moment. The highlight of the day was a demonstration of the natural domain, showing how the gaucho was able to evolve
with his time and his environment. This technique allows you to train the horse without any form
of authority and even less violence. In four months of caresses, whispers and connections, the magic happens
and the symbiosis is perfect. This knowledge comes from the Indians
who used it, in particular, to simulate the death of the horse and
thus save his daughter and that of his rider. This type of taming is also practiced in aquatic environments and Argentina has
become a reference in this field. The estencias surrounding Buenos Aires,
whether inspired by English, French or Spanish colonial-style communities
, offer a multitude of rural offerings
that perfectly complement a visit to the city,
particularly in the Luján region, known for its monumental cathedral
built by the architect Louis XVII, who, according to Argentine legend,
was none other than the son of Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI,
saved from death by Napoleon and whose disappearance has never
ceased to make headlines. Pierre Benoit, renamed Pedro Benoit, is also the author of The Cathedral
of Buenos Aires and the cathedral of the capital of the province
of Buenos Aires, La Plata. Estancia La Candelaria is a fine example of its kind, located
all around Buenos Aires. In the case of La Candelaria,
the Fraga couple chose a French Renaissance style, as in the
castles of the Loire Valley. The estencias were in fact the main engine of the economy
and the starting point of what Argentina would become after
the War of Independence. It was only at the end of the 19th century that
the conquest of the rest of the country began. From half of the province of Buenos Aires to the south,
there were only aborigines. It was the land of the Indians. Step by step, the estencias occupied immense spaces and contributed
to the launch of modernity. These commercial production centers were the reason for living
for an entire population. A little further on, this time, in the purest English tradition,
Vichamalia is also a model of the genre. These estencias are representative of the diversity and richness that
nourish the legends of Buenos Aires. The city has a historical capital that is the pride of a people who come
mostly from the Old Continent. Like New York,
a unique melting pot of European immigrants gave birth to one
of America’s great metropolises. A distant cousin of Europe,
Buenos Aires has managed to preserve family treasures, both
human and historical. A guardian of Latin culture who today deserves her title
of Empress of South America.
Buenos Aires, capitale du tango et de la passion, vous réserve mille visages inattendus. ✋Les plus belles destinations, c’est ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez vous ! 🙏
00:00 Introduction à Buenos Aires
03:40 Monuments et figures emblématiques
05:30 Quartiers de San Telmo et La Boca
10:25 Puerto Madero et cuisine argentine
13:45 Tango, danse et passion portègne
19:20 Loisirs et parcs de Palermo
21:18 La tradition du maté
25:36 Recoleta et le souvenir d’Evita
28:22 Polo et culture équestre
34:29 Le delta du Tigre
38:05 Gauchos et culture rurale
47:36 Estancias et traditions d’Argentine
49:35 Conclusion : l’impératrice latine
Buenos Aires, capitale et centre économique de l’Argentine, est un mélange d’élégance européenne teintée de fougue sud-américaine.
Deux fois plus grande que Paris, on ne termine jamais d’explorer les milles facettes de cette ville qui évoque aussi bien le tango, le football, une viande d’exception ou le Malbec. Tandis que le nom d’Evita ramène à une époque où la grandeur de la ville rayonnait dans le monde entier, la beauté et la diversité de son architecture témoigne de toutes les influences qui ont fait l’Argentine.
Mais au fond, à l’étranger, peu nombreux sont ceux qui connaissent vraiment Buenos Aires. Sa découverte vous mènera de surprises en surprises.
À découvrir sur Voyage du Bout du Monde
CÔTE D’IVOIRE: Quels secrets cachent ses traditions ancestrales ? https://youtu.be/hzikrfLN2hg
Secrets de CRÈTE : paysages, traditions et héritage de la Grèce Antique https://youtu.be/jPW2I0th7_0
Voyage au coeur de l’IRLANDE celtique : De Dublin aux falaises de Moher https://youtu.be/c1esc_l7pJg
“BUENOS AIRES, L’IMPERATRICE LATINE”
Un film de Chris Nahon
Droits réservés
#BuenosAires #Argentine #DocumentaireVoyage #Tango #Football #AmériqueLatine
2 Comments
Très beau reportage. C'est fascinant.😊👍
Carlos Gardel était Francais, il est né à Toulouse, mais sa famille a émigré alors qu´il était très jeune.