Japan local trip | A Ghibli-like Nostalgic Seaside Town – Temples, Cafes & Solo Travel

Japan local trip | A Ghibli-like Nostalgic Seaside Town – Temples, Cafes & Solo Travel

Hi everyone. Today, we’re off on a summer trip to Onomichi in Hiroshima. Beyond the train window, the Seto Inland Sea sparkles in the sunlight—just the sight of it fills me with excitement for the journey ahead. Onomichi is home to retro shopping streets lined with old-fashioned shops and tiny cafés. Climb the hills, and you’ll find historic temples and sweeping views of the port. It’s the perfect town for a slow, relaxing getaway. Right in front of the station lies the calm, gentle waters of Onomichi Channel. What a beautiful view… This town truly shines in the summertime. First, let’s head up to Senkō-ji Temple for a panoramic view of the city. It’s about a 30-minute walk to the top, or just three minutes if you take the ropeway. From the observation deck, the scenery is simply breathtaking—like looking out from the sky itself. You can see the entire town and port all at once. Onomichi Channel has long been an important route for transporting goods, supporting this port town throughout history. The sound of wind chimes from Senkō-ji’s summer festival is wonderfully refreshing. In the past, people believed the sound of wind chimes could ward off evil spirits. Today, they still soothe the hearts of visitors. This bell is rung six times every evening at 6 p.m. Telling the time through sound feels so charmingly old-fashioned. I’m looking forward to hearing it later. Still, it’s already hot this morning… I’m craving a cold drink. Near the observation deck, I found something perfect! A frozen drink made with a whole lemon. Hiroshima is famous for its lemons, so you’ll find lots of lemon-inspired treats here. It’s tangy, refreshing, and absolutely delicious—just what I needed to cool down. A little way down from Senkō-ji is my inn for the night, Mihara-shitei. True to its name, this guesthouse offers one of the best views in all of Onomichi. It was originally built over 100 years ago as a private villa. Before checking in, I dropped off my luggage. The view from the café is stunning—now I’m even more excited to see the view from my room. 😊 For the walk down, let’s take the path on foot. A little further along is a narrow 200-meter alley known as Cat Alley. Cats everywhere along the path! And I even met a real one. 😆 It felt like stepping into the pages of a storybook—a little world of its own. Local artists have placed round stones painted with cats throughout the alley as part of a town revitalization project. It was like a treasure hunt—just walking around filled me with excitement. A whimsical little world… the 200 meters passed in no time. We’ve now arrived at Onomichi’s shopping street. This nostalgic street is lined with retro-style storefronts. It must be for Tanabata—bamboo branches swayed with strips of paper, each carrying a child’s wish. Bamboo is said to be a dwelling place for the gods, so we hang our wishes on it in hopes they’ll be granted. Many shops still have their old signs—paradise for someone like me who loves retro charm. And here’s our next stop—Mendokoro Miyachi. A long-standing noodle shop famous for its classic ramen. It’s a small place, but always full. Their simple chūka soba is incredibly good. The owner is so kind, and the warm, welcoming atmosphere keeps me coming back. In fact, I ended up eating here three times during my stay. ☺️ With my stomach happy, it’s time to climb more stairs and continue exploring. Along the slopes, you’ll find old temples and narrow uphill lanes. This is why Onomichi is called “the town of hills.” I first visited Onomichi with my dad when I was in elementary school. I loved the maze-like stairways so much, I ran ahead and left him behind. When I turned around, my dad was nowhere in sight… It felt like I was lost in an unfamiliar town, and a wave of worry hit me. Thankfully, we found each other soon after, and I felt so relieved. Looking up at the slope and the sea beyond, the view somehow felt more special than before. I even told him, “Let’s move here!”—a request that, of course, left him flustered. My father has since passed away, but Onomichi will always be a place we both loved. Walking here again after so long, I notice both the familiar charm and small changes over time. While some old houses have been abandoned, more newcomers are moving in, opening cafés in restored traditional homes. Here’s another beautifully renovated café. Drawn in by the heat, I followed the “ice” curtain hanging out front. This is Air Café, located within the grounds of Komyō-ji Temple. I ordered shaved ice with lemon and lemongrass. The sparkling jelly syrup on top looked adorable and so refreshing. Its crisp, light flavor was just what I needed in the summer heat. A cold treat is a must when exploring Onomichi in summer. And when you think of Onomichi, you can’t miss the yellow train. Its nostalgic charm fits this town perfectly. No two hills are the same here—you’ll find new favorites with every walk. Next, I’m heading to TEA STAND GEN
YAMATE. It’s a specialty shop for Japanese organic tea. I enjoyed my tea in the calm, relaxing atmosphere. I tried a cold tea tasting set, along with sweet soy-glazed rice dumplings. The staff were friendly, making it a place you just want to linger. Long ago, people didn’t live on the hillsides of Onomichi—it was sacred ground for temples and shrines. Later, wealthy merchants started building villas up here, and soon the slopes were dotted with beautiful homes overlooking the sea. I’ve now made my way to Hōtō-ji Temple. Perhaps because of the heat, there’s no one else visiting today. Still, the temple grounds feel sacred, and somehow calming despite the summer sun. I heard you can even paint your own maneki-neko (lucky cat) figurine here. And right in the temple grounds, I found the cutest little café. It feels like it stepped straight out of a picture book, and I can’t help but smile. The inside is just as charming, with warm smiles from the staff—everything about it is adorable. I ordered freshly squeezed Setoda mandarin orange juice. Cold, naturally sweet, and so refreshing—absolutely delicious. Sitting among so many books, sipping juice slowly, I felt completely at peace. 😊 It was such a lovely surprise to stumble upon a place I instantly fell in love with. It’s almost time to check in, so I’m heading back to the inn. Wow… what an incredible view—more than I’d imagined! Staying in a room like this, I can’t help but feel so excited. And this… is actually the largest room in the whole building. It’s just me traveling solo, but this was the only room available—one futon in such a big space feels like pure luxury, and I can’t help but laugh. 🤭 From here, I can see all the way to the Onomichi Bridge. And I can even spot the trains I love—what a perfect view. 😊 There are four rooms upstairs, and one guest room plus a café on the first floor. Being an old building, there are a few inconveniences, and I tried to be mindful about noise. As it’s a designated cultural property, eating and drinking in the rooms isn’t allowed, and the showers and toilets are shared. After enjoying some time in this very Onomichi-style inn, it’s time to head to the shopping street for dinner. The sound of Senkō-ji’s bell drifts through the air—it brings back such warm memories. As evening falls, cats start appearing in the alleyways. So many had been hiding away—it’s a dream come true for a cat lover like me. ☺️ A town where cats are simply part of everyday life… Onomichi really is special. The shopping street is bustling tonight—it turns out there’s a local festival happening. It’s the “Water Festival,” a tradition dating back to the Edo period. Locals handcraft mechanical dolls that spray water, and display them every year. The cool mist and playful designs have everyone smiling. Even Donald Trump is here! 😊 But the crowd favorite seems to be Mario—so cute! At Kumano Shrine, I got to see a shrine maiden’s dance. It felt like such a lucky coincidence to visit at just the right time. I’m glad I could experience it—it’s these small local festivals that feel so warm and inviting. There’s something truly special about them. For dinner, I’m stopping at Murakami, right near the festival. These days, they’re only open one or two days a week. I ordered their most popular dish—Onomichi-yaki Plus. This version is unique for its addition of chicken gizzards. It was my first time trying it, and it was delicious! The sauce was wonderfully savory, and I feel lucky to have come on one of their rare open days. ☺️ Along the shopping street, shop owners had set up stalls selling festival foods. I couldn’t resist when I spotted frozen Setoda mandarins. Frozen mandarins at a festival—what a treat. I wish they sold them in Tokyo! They even offered condensed milk on the side—such a nice touch. I loved it so much, I ended up recreating it at home. That festival was so much fun. Feeling recharged, I climbed back up the hill to the Senkō-ji observation deck, hoping for a beautiful sunset. I thought it might be crowded at this hour, but no one was there. Wow… absolutely breathtaking. Sunsets and sunrises on a trip always put me at peace—they’re moments that reset my heart. I feel so lucky to witness a view like this here in Onomichi. 😊 With no one around, I couldn’t help but call out, “Wow! Beautiful!” over and over like an excited kid. 🤭 On the way back, I realized why no one was there—there are almost no streetlights, and it’s a little dangerous after dark. Good thing Mihara-shitei is just nearby. 😅 I want to catch the sunrise tomorrow, so I’m heading to bed early. Soft morning light begins to signal the start of a new day. Slowly, the morning arrives. The town seems to wake gently, bathed in warm colors. Waking up to this view—it’s a luxury in itself. I feel so grateful to start the day this way. Wrapped in Onomichi’s slow, peaceful morning… I just want to stay here a little longer, soaking it all in. What a fulfilling moment this has been. It looks like it’s going to be another blazing hot day. The sound of cicadas fills the air—like the soundtrack of Onomichi. It’s about time for the café to open. Let’s treat ourselves to a morning breakfast. A hot sandwich and coffee. They use bread from Nekonote Pan, a bakery loved here in Onomichi. The bakery was on summer break, so I feel lucky I could still try it here. It seems many shops in Onomichi take long summer holidays. That unhurried pace, letting time flow as it will, feels so true to Onomichi’s charm. Today, I’m going to explore Onomichi’s historic temples. First stop is Ushitorajinja Shrine, right next to the ropeway station. Founded in the year 806, it’s said to be the very first shrine built in Onomichi. In its grounds stands a massive camphor tree, over 900 years old. Its presence is overwhelming, yet it somehow feels protective and gentle. My temple walk has only just begun—the next stop is Jōdo-ji Temple, a little farther away. On the way, I bought a frozen bottle of tea from a convenience store—it doubles as an ice pack, perfect for a hot day out. Said to have been founded by Prince Shōtoku in 616, its main hall and two-story pagoda are designated national treasures. It’s one of the temples I’ve always wanted to visit. In this quiet, I can’t help but stand a little taller. It’s also known as the temple where the warlord Ashikaga Takauji prayed for victory in battle. This temple also has a special connection with doves—you’ll see plenty of them around the grounds. I found a charming little ornament called the “Guiding White Dove.” You write your wish on a slip of paper, place it inside the dove, hold it gently in your hands as you pray, and then offer it at the temple. I made a wish of my own and offered one, too. You can place it anywhere that feels meaningful to you— though sometimes foxes take them back to their dens. I love that heartwarming little story. Before heading to my next stop, Saikoku-ji Temple, I took a break at a nearby café. It’s an 80-year-old Japanese house, renovated with a café downstairs and a guest room upstairs. Cafés in Onomichi always feel so comfortable—you can really take your time here. I ordered a lemon soda and an affogato. The rich milk ice cream with espresso was the perfect pick-me-up for a body tired from the summer heat. Alright, now on to Saikoku-ji Temple. Its name comes from the phrase “the number one temple in Saigoku,” and it has a long, distinguished history. In honor of the two guardian statues here, giant straw sandals—each over two meters long—are offered to the temple. There are 108 stone steps leading up to the temple. Lining the steps are cherry trees, which must create a tunnel of blossoms in spring. Onomichi is famous for its cherry blossoms, and locals told me, “You should come back in spring.” In the back stands a three-story pagoda—its graceful form blending beautifully with the sky and mountains. Saikoku-ji is such a stunning temple. Each building is impressive, with careful detail in every corner. Its quiet presence leaves a lasting impression on the heart. Looking down from here, it feels as if the town and the channel are still being watched over by the gods and Buddhas. After finishing my visit, I returned to the shopping street. I stopped at a café I’d noticed yesterday—today, I’m having lunch here. It’s a classic kissaten, with the retro charm of the Showa era still intact. Outside the window, a mobile grocery van pulls up—it feels like I’m living in Onomichi. An iced tea cools me down in the summer heat. I ordered my favorite—omelet rice. Comfort food at its best. It was the kind of place that warms both the heart and soul. I just happened to find it, but it felt like the perfect place to shake off travel fatigue—that’s the magic of traveling. After the festival, the shopping street had returned to its usual calm. The souvenir shops were filled with cat-themed goods—very Onomichi. Everything was so cute, I ended up browsing for a while. I wandered down toward the Onomichi Channel. The quiet waves and passing boats made the perfect soundtrack for summer. Onomichi may be a summer town, but the heat keeps the tourist crowds away. Even on a weekend, it feels surprisingly peaceful. A local recommended I visit the observation deck at Onomichi City Hall. The building itself was the first surprise. It’s so sleek and modern, I had to look up which architecture firm designed it. From the deck, you can see the whole town and the sea stretching out beyond. It’s open until 9 p.m., so you can enjoy the night view as well—a great tip to have. Next up is Karasawa, a beloved local ice cream shop everyone seems to know. They’ve even set up an indoor “Monaka Room” so you can relax and enjoy your ice cream at leisure. It’s such a treat to enjoy it in air-conditioned comfort. Their signature ice cream monaka pairs crisp wafers with rich, house-made ice cream. Each bite brought a smile to my face. They’ve even set benches along the seawall so you can enjoy your ice cream with a sea view. In cooler weather, this would be the perfect spot to linger with an ice cream. After that, I headed to another popular spot—HIBI COFFEE. I’d heard there’s usually a line, but today I got lucky and walked right in. The inside is adorable, and the sweets inspired by the owner’s family cat are especially popular. I ordered an ice cream cookie sandwich, pudding, and a mandarin lemonade. The bittersweet cookie and sweet ice cream were a perfect match—tasting as good as they looked. The pudding had that nostalgic, gentle flavor I love. The staff were kind, the atmosphere peaceful—it was the kind of place you just don’t want to leave. By the time I left, a line had formed outside—perfect timing. I love watching movies while traveling—and if it’s an old-fashioned mini-theater, even better. “Cinema Onomichi”—even the name sounds wonderful. And as luck would have it, they were showing a film set right here in Onomichi. It felt like fate—I had to watch it. Spending time at a local theater like this is exactly what I mean by “traveling as if living here.” Onomichi has been the setting for many films—it’s easy to see why, when every street feels cinematic. Now, time for an early dinner. Tonight I’m heading to Kagimasa. Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is usually made with noodles, but I decided to try their version with udon. Watching it cook right on the hot griddle was part of the fun. But more than that, the couple who run the place were so warm and welcoming—it really touched me. And of course, the flavor didn’t disappoint—both my stomach and my heart were full. From Onomichi Station, it’s just a 10-minute train ride to Mihara Station. I’m staying at a hotel near the station tonight so I can catch the Kure Line from here in the morning. The Kure Line is a special route for me—it holds memories of my father. Tomorrow, I’ll share the beautiful scenery you can see from this line. Just before dawn in Mihara—it’s quiet outside, but this morning feels special. Rubbing the sleep from my eyes, I head out to catch the first train. My memory’s a bit hazy, but— I think I’ve taken this very first train on the Kure Line before. One summer morning, my father and I watched the sunrise from the train—it’s a moment I’ll never forget. This morning, no one else boarded—it feels like I have the whole train to myself. There’s something exciting about such a quiet start to the day. My father loved trains—he knew so much about them. Since my mother was often busy, he and I would take train trips together—that’s how I fell in love with them, too. Ah, there’s the sea! The surface glows quietly in the light of the morning sun. It’s so divine, so serene—this is the view I came for. The beauty of the scenery, combined with precious memories, fills my heart. I love many train lines, but the Kure Line will always be special. I hope this view remains unchanged forever. For this trip, I stayed in Onomichi for about a week, taking it slow. I’ll be sharing a few more moments from this journey in separate videos. Next time, we’ll explore Onomichi and the nostalgic port town of Tomonoura—I’d love for you to join me. Thanks so much for watching to the end. 😊 Let’s enjoy another slow, peaceful trip together next time!

Set out on a slow, scenic journey through Onomichi — a charming port town on the Seto Inland Sea, known for its hills, temples, and retro shopping streets.
From the peaceful waves of the Onomichi Channel to the lively old-town arcade, from historic temples to stunning hilltop views, this Japan walking tour captures the relaxed pace of summer in Onomichi.

In this episode, we explore cozy kominka cafés, long-loved family shops, and hidden backstreets, with stops at the waterfront and along the slopes of this picturesque town.
Famous as a film location and a must-visit spot on the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, Onomichi offers a unique mix of history, seaside charm, and local life.

If you enjoy Japan travel walks, local trip ideas, and train vlogs, this video is for you.
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🌳 Places Visited
◆ Senkōji Temple
https://www.senkouji.jp
◆ Miharashi-tei Guesthouse

トップページ

◆ Mendokoro Miyachi (Noodle Shop)
https://onomichi-hondoori.jp/shop/detail.php?sp=90
◆ AIR CAFE
https://www.instagram.com/komyoji_kaikan?igsh=eTV3cWtqODRoMWx5
◆ Tea Stand Gen Yamate
https://www.instagram.com/tea_stand_gen.onomichi.yamate?igsh=MTVkd3lrdXp5OGMwZg==
◆ Mori wo Aruku Neko Café
https://www.instagram.com/moriwoarukuneko?igsh=MTY1MXUwcms2eGJiYg==
◆ Okonomiyaki Murakami
https://www.instagram.com/murakami_okonomiyaki?igsh=MWJkcTEycXpkdmNkZw==
◆ Ushitora Shrine
https://onomichijp.com/attraction/ushitora_shrine.html
◆ Jōdo-ji Temple
https://shichibutsu.jp/temple/joudoji.php
◆ Mio no Michi (Tea House)
https://www.mionomichi.com
◆ Saikoku-ji Temple

トップページ

◆ Bridge Café (Kaijō Kissa Burijji)
https://www.google.com/maps/place//data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x355101b1935cbb2f:0x4b7e1fe4fea6625c?entry=s&sa=X&ved=1t:8290&hl=ja-jp&ictx=111&g_ep=Eg1tbF8yMDI1MDgwNl8wIOC7DCoASAJQAg%3D%3D
◆ Onomichi City Hall Observation Deck
https://www.city.onomichi.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/8/3217.html
◆ Karasawa (Ice Monaka)
https://www.ice.jcom.to
◆ HIBI COFFEE
https://www.instagram.com/hibi.coffee?igsh=MTVlZnZ6eTA4Y20x
◆ Cinema Onomichi
http://cinemaonomichi.com
◆ Okonomiyaki Kagimasa
https://www.kagimasa.com