[漳州] 漫步漳州古城，穿越閩南老巷弄與紅磚古厝 / 4K Walking Tour / 環境聲

[漳州] 漫步漳州古城，穿越閩南老巷弄與紅磚古厝 / 4K Walking Tour / 環境聲

Today I took the high-speed rail from Shenzhen to Zhangzhou. The last time I came to Zhangzhou was during the 2020 epidemic. The high-speed rail took 3 hours from Shenzhen to Zhangzhou and the ticket price was RMB 209. This time I set off early in the morning. The round Spend most of the day walking. trip on the same day was a special forces itinerary. I started from Zhangzhou Ancient City . Zhangzhou Ancient City has a history of 1,300 years. It is known as the “living fossil of the ancient city of southern Fujian”. There are many archways and arcade buildings in the ancient city from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the Republic of China. Speaking of arcades , arcades are often seen in Taiwan. In mainland China, it seems that only Guangdong and Fujian have more One reason is that the climate in Guangdong and Fujian is hot and humid and rainy. The arcades can provide shade and shelter from the rain. ventilation and moisture-proof functions. Another reason is that from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the Republic of China, a large number of Minnan people went to Nanyang (Southeast Asia) to make a living and got rich. After returning to their hometown to build houses , they brought the arcade style of the Southeast Asian colonies, such as the “shophouses” in Singapore and Malacca, back to Fujian, combined with local traditional architecture and improved it. There is a Taiwan Road and a Hong Kong Street in Zhangzhou Ancient City. Hong Kong Road was formed in the Ming Dynasty and was originally named “Nanshi Street”. Because it is close to the Jiulong River (Zhangzhou’s mother river) , it was an important port area for Zhangzhou’s foreign trade in ancient times . From the late Qing Dynasty to the early Republic of China, Zhangzhou The street has frequent overseas trade, especially close trade with Hong Kong. Since this street gathers many businesses dealing in foreign goods and overseas Chinese remittances, It was gradually called “Hong Kong Road” it reflects the Zhangzhou people’s yearning for the prosperous Hong Kong at that time. Taiwan Road was called “Fuqian Street” in the Qing Dynasty because it was close to the Zhangzhou government office. It was the core commercial street in the ancient city. During the Japanese occupation period (1895-1945), Zhangzhou and Taiwan had frequent non-governmental exchanges. Many Zhangzhou people went to Taiwan to make a living (such as the Wufeng Lin family, whose ancestral home was Zhangzhou). After returning home, they brought with them Taiwanese goods and cultural influences. The street name gradually evolved into “Taiwan Road”. During the Republic of China period, it was officially named “Taiwan Road”, which reflects the Minnan people’s nostalgia for Taiwan. The name was retained after 1949. There is also a very beautiful Zhongshan Park in Zhangzhou Ancient City. The site of the park was once the seat of Zhangzhou Prefecture (government office) in the Tang Dynasty. It was expanded in the Song Dynasty and remained the seat of Zhangzhou Government Office in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. During the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, Shi Lang, Marquis of Jinghai, established the “General’s Office” here. In 1918, Chen Jiongming, Commander-in-Chief of the Guangdong Army stationed in Zhangzhou, implemented the new policy of the “Southern Fujian Protection Zone.” The old government office was demolished and the “Zhangzhou First Park” was built, modeled after the Guangzhou model. The park’s layout blended Chinese and Western styles , becoming one of the most modern public spaces in southern Fujian at the time. In 1926, after the Northern Expedition , the park was renamed “Zhongshan Park” to commemorate Dr. Sun Yat-sen, and revolutionary memorial buildings were added. Putting aside the history of Zhongshan Park, considering it simply as a park, I think Zhongshan Park is a 9-point park. The design and maintenance of various plants are appropriate, and it is a cool and summery place. You can also enjoy the flowers and trees. It is more like a small botanical garden. Walking out of Zhongshan Park, you can immediately see Zhangzhou Catholic Church . Catholicism was introduced to Zhangzhou by Spanish Dominican missionaries in the 17th century (late Ming Dynasty). Early believers were mainly coastal merchants and fishermen. During the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty (18th century), the Catholic church was destroyed due to the ban on religion. After the Opium War in the mid-19th century , foreign missionaries returned to Zhangzhou and rebuilt the church. . The current Zhangzhou Catholic Church was built in 1902. It was built by the Paris Foreign Missions Society of France . It is one of the important modern Catholic churches in southern Fujian. Zhangzhou has been a place where many religions converge since ancient times . In addition to Catholicism , Buddhism, Taoism, Folk beliefs (such as Guandi and Mazu) and Islam (such as the Dongmei Hui Village in Zhangzhou) have taken root here , forming a unique “belief symbiosis” phenomenon . The people of Southern Fujian are pragmatic and flexible , often treating different beliefs with a “worship if it’s useful” attitude. Next to the Catholic church is a Jianguo Oyster Omelet and Oyster Noodles restaurant Oyster omelet is similar to Taiwan’s oyster omelet or Singapore’s oyster omelet. , but the oyster omelet here is fried crispy and paired with a bowl of fresh oyster soup. It’s really enjoyable. I actually ate at this restaurant when I came here in 2020. I just happened to pass by and ate there because it looked good. Now it seems to be getting more and more famous and popular online. There are many restaurant introductions on Xiaohongshu. There were also a lot of people there. After eating and drinking, I scanned the code on the roadside and rented an electric scooter to ride around and feel the atmosphere of Zhangzhou’s general residential areas. Outside the old city, almost every place I rode had a dedicated motorcycle lane. It was relatively safe to ride a bike here, which is much better than Shenzhen . If you want to ride safely in Shenzhen , you can only ride on the sidewalk, which is very unfriendly to pedestrians. I rode aimlessly for about 15 minutes and arrived at Wuyue Plaza , a large comprehensive shopping mall. There were many people in the mall and the shopping was very prosperous. There was also an 85°C store that sold wheel cakes! After a short walk in the mall to cool off, we took a bus to another old town in Zhangzhou: Shima. Shima is not as commercialized as Zhangzhou Old Street. It is a very original old neighborhood where you can immerse yourself in the life atmosphere of the local residents. There are not many tourists there because the weather is too hot. I had a bowl of satay noodles and two bowls of four-fruit ice cream there . In the alleys and under the arcades, many elderly people were sitting to enjoy the cool air. Most of them did not talk and did not have mobile phones. They just sat quietly. It seems that the elderly there may not be used to using mobile phones without the interference of various chat apps and social media. Or perhaps they don’t need to use mobile phones . When they have nothing to do, they chat with their neighbors, make tea, play cards, and slowly and quietly accompany the city where they were born and grew up. Enjoy the walk. Remember to like and subscribe:)

00:00 – Intro
01:25 – 高鐵沿路風景
03:15 – 漳州古城
38:11 – 中山公園
49:18 – 漳州天主堂
50:32 – 建國蚵煎蚵麵 & 街道
52:56 – 騎電動車市區穿梭
1:19:15 – 吾悅廣場
1:41:38 – 後港古街
1:55:42 – 九龍江
1:56:49 – 石碼
2:26:05 – 漳州站

今天從深圳坐高鐵來漳州走走
上次來漳州也是2020年疫情的時候
高鐵從深圳到漳州要3個小時
票價人民幣209元
這次一大早就出發
大半天的時間暴走
當天來回
算是個特種兵的行程

一開始先從漳州古城開始走
漳州古城有1300年的歷史
被譽為「閩南古城的活化石」
古城裡面有很多明清到民國時代的牌坊和騎樓建築

說到騎樓
在台灣常看見的騎樓在中國大陸好像是廣東和福建比較多
一個原因是氣候濕熱多雨
騎樓可以起到遮陽避雨、通風防潮的作用
另一個原因是明清至民國時期
大量閩南人下南洋（東南亞）謀生
致富後回鄉建房
將東南亞殖民地的騎樓形式（如新加坡、馬六甲的「店屋」）帶回福建
結合本地傳統建築改良

在漳州古城裡有一條台灣路和一條香港街
香港路形成於明代
原名「南市街」
因靠近九龍江（漳州母親河）
是古代漳州對外貿易的重要碼頭區。
清末至民國初期
漳州與海外貿易頻繁
尤其是與香港的商貿往來密切
由於這條街聚集了許多經營洋貨、僑批（華僑匯款）的商行
逐漸被稱為「香港路」
反映當時漳州人對繁華香港的嚮往
台灣路在清代稱「府前街」
因靠近漳州府衙得名
是古城內的核心商業街
日據時期（1895-1945年）
漳州與台灣的民間往來頻繁
許多漳州人去台灣謀生（如霧峰林家祖籍漳州）
返鄉後帶來台灣的商品和文化影響
街名逐漸演變為「台灣路」
民國時期
官方正式定名「台灣路」
寄託了閩南人對台灣的鄉土情結
1949年後名稱保留

漳州古城裡還有一個很漂亮的中山公園
唐代至清代
公園所在地曾是唐代漳州州治（官府衙門）所在
宋代擴建，明清時期仍是漳州府衙所在地
清康熙年間
靖海侯施琅曾在此設立「總兵署」
1918年，粵軍總司令陳炯明駐漳
推行「閩南護法區」新政
拆除舊府衙
仿照廣州模式興建「漳州第一公園」
公園佈局融合中西風格，成為當時閩南最現代化的公共空間之一
1926年，北伐戰爭後
為紀念孫中山先生
公園更名為「中山公園」
並增設革命紀念性建築
拋開中山公園的歷史不說
以一個單純的公園來看
我覺得它也是個9分的公園
各種植物的設計和養護都恰如其分
可以乘涼避暑
也可以欣賞
像是個植物園

中山公園往外走
馬上可以看到漳州天主堂
天主教於17世紀（明末）
由西班牙多明我會傳教士傳入漳州
早期信徒以沿海商人和漁民為主。
清雍正年間（18世紀）禁教
天主堂被毀
19世紀中葉
鴉片戰爭後
外國傳教士重返漳州，重建教堂
如今的玫瑰聖母堂建於1902年
由法國巴黎外方傳教會建造
是閩南地區重要的近代天主教堂之一
漳州自古是多種宗教交匯之地
除天主教外
佛教、道教、民間信仰（如關帝、媽祖）
和伊斯蘭教（如漳州東美回族村）均在此扎根
形成獨特的「信仰共生」現象
閩南人務實靈活
常以「有用即拜」態度對待不同信仰

天主教堂的旁邊
有一家建國蚵煎蚵麵
蚵煎類似台灣的蚵仔煎或新加坡的蠔煎
不過這裡的蚵煎是用炸的
酥酥脆脆
配上一碗滿是鮮蚵的湯
非常享受
這家店其實在2020年來的時候就吃過了
那時是剛好路過看著不錯就吃了
現在好像越來越出名
越來越網紅
小紅書上很多介紹
餐廳也是絡繹不絕

吃飽喝足後
我在路邊掃描租了一台電動摩托車
騎車溜達兜風
順便感受漳州一般的居民區的氛圍
老城區外我騎過的地方幾乎都有專門的機車道
在這邊騎車相對安全
這點比深圳好太多了
深圳如果要安全騎行
只能在人行道上騎
這點對行人又非常不友好了
漫無目的地騎了15分鐘左右
來到了吾悅廣場
是一個很大的綜合商場
商場裡面人很多買氣很旺
還有一家85°C
裡面有賣車輪餅！

商場裡面稍微走了一下消消暑後
接著就搭車去了漳州的另外一個老城區：石碼
石碼不像漳州老街那麼商業化
是個很原生態的老城區
可以沉浸感受當地居民的生活氛圍
觀光客也沒那麼多
天氣實在太熱
在那裏吃了一碗沙爹麵、兩碗四果冰

巷子裡、騎樓下很多老人坐著在乘涼
多數沒說話、也沒有手機
就是靜靜地坐著
感覺那裡的老人可能也不習慣用手機
沒有各種聊天軟件社交媒體的干擾
慢慢地靜靜地陪著他們出生成長的城市

Enjoy the walk
記得點讚、訂閱 : )