フォウィ – 歴史と文学が交差する場所！コーンウォールの港町フォウィ

フォウィ – 歴史と文学が交差する場所！コーンウォールの港町フォウィ

Fowey stands as a jewel of South Cornwall. 
Here, narrow winding streets cascade down to a sparkling estuary. And every corner 
seems to hold tales of maritime daring, literary genius and a fishing heritage that is 
deeply woven into its identity. Join us for an afternoon stroll in this charming Cornish 
town and find out why you should visit. We are heading to Fowey, having previously been in 
Polperro. The River Fowey is blocking our route, and we will need the help of the Bodinnick 
ferry to take us across the estuary. You can go around it, but that would make for a 
22-mile diversion to avoid the crossing fee. The ferry can take 12 cars, foot passengers 
and cyclists and crisscrosses the River Fowey every 10 to 15 minutes all year 
round. For pricing and running times, see this website. No advanced booking is 
needed. Just show up and queue as we are now. We started our Cornish series a few 
weeks back using Lostwithiel as our base. Our first coastal visit 
was at the seaside town of Looe, followed by the fishing village frozen in 
time, Polperro, where we’ve just been. You can see that all these places are very close 
and we visited all three on the same day. Here comes the ferry now. Nestled within an area of outstanding natural 
beauty, Fowey’s charm is undeniable and enduring. Describing it as merely a fishing town only 
scratches the surface. It encompasses a medieval port, a former pirate haunt, a magnificent fishing 
hub, a crucial centre for the China Clay industry, a profound muse for writers, and a 
bustling modern tourist destination. Parking close to the harbour can be a 
bit of an issue, so we used the main car park high on the hill overlooking 
the town. Parking was £5.80 for 3 hours. The town is best explored on foot. Its ancient 
streets are not really designed for cars anyway, more for horses, but luckily, Fowey is very 
compact. Well, it’s very hilly. We’re going down into the centre of Fowey. I’m not looking forward 
to the walk back up to the car park at the end, that’s for sure. But, we’ll continue 
going downhill till we get to the seafront or the riverfront. The town’s existence 
predates the Norman invasion, with the local church first established sometime in the 7th 
century and records appearing in the Domesday Book. You may recall from our very first video in 
Lostwithiel that the seagoing ships passed Fowey, continuing up river to Lostwithiel, once 
the main port on the river, even serving as the administrative capital of Cornwall and a 
thriving Stannery town (a town with the right to trade tin). Over time, the river silted up, and by 
the 14th century, Fowey became the most important port in medieval Cornwall. It was a bustling 
centre of trade with commodities like tin, fish and wool flowing through its harbour to 
continental Europe. This commerce established Fowey’s early wealth and strategic significance. 
Alongside legitimate trade, a reputation for outright piracy flourished as it did in many towns 
and villages of the era. The harbour’s strategic value necessitated robust defences. There is a refreshing, notable lack of chain stores in the town and instead a wealth of independent locally 
owned businesses, a treasure trove of unique finds from elegant boutiques and gift shops selling 
handmade jewellery, coastal-themed hardware and artisan crafts to numerous art galleries and 
studios that showcase the work of local artists. You can see here how traffic does struggles to 
navigate the narrow gaps in some of the streets. Squeezing into Trafalgar Square 
ahead of us is the Fowey museum, appropriately housed in one of the town’s 
oldest buildings. Only open weekdays, so not on our Sunday visit, the museum 
offers a fascinating glimpse into Fowey’s heritage. Also here is the Ship Inn, the 
oldest pub in the town, dating from 1435. Right beside the pub is the parish church of St. 
Fimbarrus, which was largely rebuilt in the 15th century after the original was destroyed by 
a French raid in 1457. The reconstruction, funded with the support of the Earl of Warwick, 
gave Fowey the beautiful stone structure that we see today, with its soaring steeple, the second 
highest in all of Cornwall. Before the current building, a Norman church stood on the site 
itself, built on the foundations of a 7th-century wooden church believed to have been founded by 
St. Finn Bar, himself the first Bishop of Cork. Walking inside, above you, the 15th-century 
wagon roof is a masterpiece of carved timber, and a striking pulpit made from the panelling of a 
captured Spanish gallion stands as a testament to Fowey’s maritime history. For literary fans, the 
church holds a special significance. Not only is the celebrated author Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch 
buried in the churchyard, but it was also the very place where Kenneth Graham, the author of 
The Wind in the Willows, was married in 1899. You may have noticed “Place House” when the drone 
flew over the church. This is one of Fowey’s most historically significant landmarks, serving as the 
private ancestral home of the Treffry family since the 13th century. This grade one listed building 
is famous for its fortified medieval origins, most notably when it was successfully defended by 
Dame Elizabeth Treffry against a French attack in 1475. While the house has been extensively rebuilt 
and remodelled over the centuries, its imposing battlements, turrets, and stonemullioned windows 
give it a powerful and iconic presence over the town. As it remains a private residence, 
the public cannot visit, and it’s best admired from a distance, with many visitors 
enjoying the view from a boat on the river. Instead of heading straight for the 
town quay and waterfront, let’s turn left onto Fore Street. This historic street 
is Fowey’s only main shopping thoroughfare. Whilst we weren’t looking 
for anything to take home, an ice cream was on our list. So, 
we popped into Ruby’s to cool down. White chocolate and raspberry ripple. Really 
good. Yeah. Very nice. Dime bar flavour. A wander down Fore Street, Fowey’s vibrant 
archery is a journey back in time, with the various types of architecture, 
and it ends at Customs House Hill, where the building used to take 
the taxes for imports and exports. The town quay is a central and historic 
hub for the town. Historically, it served as the official office for maritime 
trade, was home to the Haveners Court, an office that collected dues for 
shipping and settling maritime disputes. A thousand American soldiers departed from 
here, heading to Normandy for D-Day in 1944. Today, the quay remains a bustling centre of activity serving as a departure point 
for guided boat trips and motorboat hire. It is also a popular spot for visitors 
surrounded by charming shops, art galleries, and various eateries like the “King of Prussia” 
Restaurant and Hotel. A prominent 17th-century waterfront building, which is believed 
to be named after a notorious smuggler, John Carter, who was nicknamed 
the “King of Prussia Cove”. The village of Polruan can be seen from Fowey on 
the other side of the river. It was here in around 1380 that two blockhouses were constructed, 
one on each side of the harbour entrance with a heavy chain that could be raised between 
them to block enemy ships. Polruan block house, also called the castle, stands as a 
visible remnant of this defensive system. The town has attracted several celebrated 
writers over the years with its picturesque setting serving as inspiration for their 
works. Daphne du Maurier is perhaps the most famously associated writer who lived in 
the area for many years, notably at Menabilly, which inspired “Manderley” in her renowned 
novel Rebecca. Her first Cornish novel, “The Loving Spirit”, was also written at 
Ferryside, her family’s holiday home in Bodinnick. We actually caught a quick glimpse 
of the house when we crossed on the ferry right at the beginning. The rook with a book 
sculpture highlights her novel “The Birds”, which was adapted by Alfred Hitchcock for the film 
of the same name in 1963. Many of her other works, including “Jamaica Inn” and “Frenchman’s 
Creek”, are deeply rooted in the Cornish landscape and history. The town also hosts the 
du Maurier Fowey literary festival in her honour. Just back from the quay is the aquarium, 
established in 1952. It features a variety of local Cornish marine life, with most 
of the creatures obtained from local fishermen and anglers. A highlight 
for visitors is the touch pool where children can interact with crabs and other 
sea creatures. Open every day 10 till 4. We’ll now make our way up onto the Espanade, a picturesque waterfront promenade that 
runs along the west bank of the river. Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch, known as “Q”, 
was a prominent literary figure who moved to Fowey in 1892 and lived there until 
his death. A prolific writer of novels and short stories. His love for the town and 
the sea heavily influenced his writing and he often referred to Fowey as “Troy Town” in 
his stories. He was also a close friend and mentor of Daphne du Maurier, and she later 
completed his unfinished novel “Castle Dor”. Kenneth Graham, the author of the beloved 
children’s classic “The Wind in the Willows”, frequented this area, often staying at the Fowey 
Hotel and Fowey Hall. It’s believed that his time here, along with his childhood experiences on the 
Thames, influenced his tales of the riverbank. Partway down is Whitehouse Quay, where you 
can catch boats to the fishing village of Mevagissy, further along the coast or more 
frequently across the estuary to Polruan. There are stunning panoramic views 
across the river to the village and the open sea. It also offers access to 
a tidal paddling pool and swimming zone and a small sheltered beach, all of 
which have been recently renovated. The town’s strategic importance saw it play 
a vital role in other national conflicts like the English Civil War. St. Catherine’s 
Castle, which we’re heading towards now, successfully repelled an attack by the 
Dutch fleet in 1667. And then again, centuries later in World War II, the deep 
water harbour was again called into service and became the main port for loading 
ammunition for the US 29th Division, which was destined for the D-Day landings on Omaha 
Beach. There is also a US Navy hut built for the town as gratitude for the friendly welcome 
the Navy received when stationed in Fowey. Over time, the patterns of trade shifted, 
and the fortunes of the harbour became much reduced with trade going to Plymouth and 
elsewhere instead. As legitimate trade waned, smuggling became a widespread and lucrative, 
albeit illicit enterprise. Indeed, even a mayor of Fowey was once accused of smuggling activities. Just like Looe and Polperro, pilchard fishing in particular became a significant industry. During 
the 18th century it was one of four principal Cornish ports for the dispatch of the pilchards, the 
silver darlings of the Cornish coast. Later, the China clay industry emerged as another 
vital economic force for Fowey. The quarrying in the hinterland around St. Austell required 
an efficient export route, and Fowey’s Harbour proved ideal. This led to significant harbour 
improvements and the development of railway links, including the Lostwithiel and Fowey railway in 
1869 and the Cornish Minerals Railway in 1873. North of the town quay is the Clay quay, which 
is still in use today, exporting China clay. Below and to our left, out of sight, lie the 
remnants of the second blockhouse, which, along with Polruan blockhouse, once secured the 
harbour entrance with a heavy chain. Visible only from the river or the opposite bank. We observed 
it earlier at a distance from Whitehouse Quay. Let’s have a very quick look at the map. 
We arrived by ferry, parked above the town, and walked the streets down to 
Fore Street and the town quay. We then clambered back up onto the 
esplanade and the Whitehouse quay, and we’re approaching Readymoney Cove and 
our final stop at St. Catherine’s Castle. Readymoney Cove is an enchanting sheltered sandy 
beach that feels like a hidden world away from the bustling town. Yet, it’s just a short scenic 
stroll from the heart of Fowey. With calm, clear waters and a backdrop of lush trees, 
it’s a popular and safe haven for families and swimmers. The distinctive turrets are an 
ornamental addition to a historic building that was originally a lime kiln. Built in 1819 
by the Rashleigh family, the kiln was used to produce lime for buildings and fertilising the 
local land. The turrets were added around 1900, giving the structure its unique and 
recognisable appearance. The buildings have since been converted to house the 
public toilets and a small beach shop. A short walk up a path, or as we did, across the beach and up some steps, 
will take you to the castle ruins. St. Catherine’s Castle is a small artillery 
Fort with a rich history built by King Henry VIII between 1538 and 40. It was constructed 
as part of a network of coastal defences to protect England from the threat of 
Invasion from France and Spain. While it was not built to house a permanent 
garrison, the castle played an active role in several periods of conflict. Royalist 
forces used it during the English Civil War, and in the 19th century it was refitted 
as a gun battery during the Crimean War. Its final military use was during World War II 
when it served as an observation post and was fitted with an anti-aircraft gun emplacement. The 
ruins of the castle are now managed by English Heritage and are open to the public during 
daylight hours. “You can’t get there? Too overgrown. Yeah. Okay. You could, but you have 
to push through. All right. Don’t. The path has become overgrown, and I do regret not pushing 
through for views from the viewing platforms. Whilst we walk back into the town, let’s 
have a look at our next Cornish adventure. Next time we’ll head to the dramatic 
granite cliffs of Porthcurno to visit an architectural marvel. An open-air venue 
seemingly sculpted by nature itself. The Minack Theatre is a world-famous amphitheatre 
often regarded as one of the most spectacular globally. It holds an almost unbelievable tale 
of its creation, not by ancient civilisation or vast construction teams, but by the sheer 
will and vision of one remarkable woman. Join us as we explore this extraordinary place 
and reveal how a personal passion transformed a remote rocky outcrop into a renowned cultural 
landmark. Well, puffed out after all that walking up and down the hills. Very quaint place. Lots 
of little nooks and crannies. I’m sure we’ve missed some of them, but we had a really good 
afternoon here. So, thanks for joining us. Do subscribe and join us on the next video. 
We’ll see you soon. Thanks for watching.

Prepare to be enchanted by Fowey, a captivating Cornish harbour town where history breathes in ancient alleyways and the sea air invigorates your spirit. Discover why this is your next perfect adventure.

Imagine a town steeped in maritime drama, from medieval ‘Fowey Gallants’ to today’s majestic sailing ships. This is the enduring allure of Fowey. Nestled on Cornwall’s south coast at the River Fowey’s mouth, this charming port has been a vital trading hub since before the Norman invasion. Its deep-water harbour, a historical lifeline, still facilitates the export of china clay. Wander its narrow, winding streets, past medieval and Georgian buildings cascading to the water’s edge, and walk through living history.

Fowey’s history runs as deep as its harbour. St. Fimbarrus Church dates to the 7th century, while Henry VIII’s St Catherine’s Castle and medieval blockhouses guarding the harbour entrance speak of past conflicts and resilience. Yet, Fowey is more than just history; it’s a vibrant town offering relaxation and adventure. Set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it boasts rugged coastline, ancient woodlands, and beautiful beaches. Getting on the water is essential – from scenic harbour cruises and wildlife safaris to taking the passenger ferry to charming Polruan.

For walkers, Fowey is paradise. The South West Coast Path offers dramatic cliff-top walks with panoramic views, inspiring countless artists and writers.

Fowey also boasts a strong literary connection, notably with author Daphne du Maurier, whose works like Rebecca drew inspiration from its landscapes. The annual Fowey Festival of Arts & Literature celebrates this legacy.

Beyond outdoor pursuits, Fowey delights with independent shops, art galleries showcasing local talent, and charming pubs and restaurants serving delicious local produce, especially fresh seafood. The Fowey Aquarium offers a glimpse into local marine life, and the Fowey Museum delves deeper into the town’s rich maritime and industrial past.

Whether you seek a tranquil escape, active adventure, or a journey through time, Fowey delivers. Lose yourself in cobbled street charm, feel the sea spray, and connect with centuries of history.

Helpful links from this video:
https://ctomsandson.co.uk/bodinnick-ferry
https://ctomsandson.co.uk/polruan-ferry
https://www.transportforcornwall.co.uk
https://www.fowey.co.uk/things-to-do/fowey-museum-p1090633
https://www.fowey.co.uk

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https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/st-catherines-castle

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00:00 Overview of Fowey
00:33 Getting to Fowey by Ferry
03:54 Walking the steep path into town
04:26 Fowey Early History
05:28 Shopping Ideas
06:33 Trafalgar Square
07:03 Parish Church of St. Fimbarrus
08:29 Place House
09:18 Historic Fore Street
11:12 Fowey Town Quay
13:00 Daphne du Maurier
14:06 Fowey Aquarium
14:28 The Esplanade
15:37 Whitehouse Quay – Boat to Polruan
17:22 More Town History
19:15 Readymoney Cove
20:42 St Catherine’s Castle
22:54 Next Time…..

#fowey #cornwall #cornish