Corse, beauté sauvage au cœur de la Méditerranée – Documentaire voyage – AMP
To travel Corsica from its
shores to its peaks is to discover an
authentic and preserved land. From Ajaccio l’Impériale to Bastia
l’Orientale, from the cliffs of Bonifacio, to Calvi la Génoise and Corte, the most Corsican of
Corsican cities, let’s meet men and women who passionately perpetuate
the traditions and culture of their island. A journey rich in encounters in the heart of
breathtaking Mediterranean landscapes. Welcome to Corsica! At 1000 kilometers long, the
Corsican coastline has remained one of the wildest of the Mediterranean islands. Our journey begins on
the Cap Corse peninsula, a true natural balcony
overlooking the deep blue sea. Off the Cape, Giraglia Island appears with
its lighthouse erected in 1848. With a range of 100 kilometers, it is the northernmost point of
the island and a safe reference for navigation. In the past, the coasts of Corsica were subject to
invasions by Barbary pirates cruising the Mediterranean. To protect itself from this, the Republic
of Genoa, which had dominated the island since the 13th century, began the construction
of a defensive belt in the early 1500s. More than a hundred
watchtowers were built. Lightly armed, these buildings made it possible to alert the
island’s populations during invasions. Eighty-three of these Genoese towers
still watch over the Corsican coast, including around twenty on the shores of the Cap. The Cap Corsins, inhabitants of the peninsula,
have always been great travelers. So when the land ceased to feed, the
Cape experienced significant emigration. It was during the second half of the
19th century that some of them, having gone to make their fortune in the Americas,
began to return home. Because a Corsican never leaves
his island… he is absent. “I am Paul Saladini.
My wife Aline and I are the owners of Palazzu Nicrosi,
an American house. » « Typical of Cap Corse, these are
important houses, bourgeois houses which were built by Cap Corsins on their return
from America. At the end of the 19th century, there was a significant emigration from Cap Corsins to
the Americas. Most of them were in Puerto Rico, but my family went to
Alabama in the USA. » “Here we are in the large family dining room
. The special feature of this room is its ceiling, which was painted by
Jean-Baptiste Gilliu. It shows a bullet hole that is the result of a
turbulent but victorious election night, during which a Bonapartist supporter fired a shot into
the air. The ball is still stuck in the ceiling. » Palazzu Nicrosi is one of 78 ”
American houses” built on the Cape between the 18th and 19th centuries. A
first-rate architectural and cultural heritage. Following the Cape towards the south, we reach the town of Bastia which
faces the Tyrrhenian Sea. Originally a simple little
fishing port called Porto Cardo, the site of the future Bastia really took
off when a Genoese governor, Leonello Lomellini, decided
to establish a stronghold there. In pure Baroque style and emblem of the city, the Saint Jean-Baptiste church
ostentatiously dominates the old port of Bastia and seems to watch affectionately
over the return of the men of the sea. “We set our nets in the morning so
that they only fish for 4 or 5 hours, no more. In the meantime, the
nets that were set the day before are pulled in. » « We actually have 6 stations like these, which
fish at sea. Then we haul in our nets of cappons, scorpionfish and
samphire. Finally, we collect the Red Mullet before returning. Therefore,
we only take live fish. » «We start fishing in front of
Bastia in March, even a little in Cap Corse. Then
we slowly descend towards the south until September. I have been practicing this
fishing for many years. » “For how many years?” » « A few years… eighty
-some years… » Built under the Third Republic and the work
of the Bastia architect Paul Augustin-Vial, the monumental staircase with
wrought iron railings crosses the Romieu gardens and made it possible to connect the port to the citadel. Named after the wealthy donor who financed
their construction, the Romieu staircase and the gardens it crosses are considered
the only visible urban gardens in Corsica. Overlooking the old port or Terra Vecchia,
the ramparts shelter the citadel and the districts that were originally
inhabited by the citizens of Genoa. The upper town or Terra Nova,
is undoubtedly Genoese in style and follows a
checkerboard architecture with its straight streets. Bastia, then the political capital of
Genoese Corsica, housed the Governors’ Palace. Completed in 1530,
the building stands on the site of the old “bastiglia”, the
original fortified town which gave its name to the city. Courtrooms and courts of justice
were used to administer the territory. It was also the residence of
the provincial governor. Listed as a historic monument, the palace
now houses the Bastia city history museum, which depicts
life during this Genoese period. The collection features, alongside a throne,
the portrait of a well-dressed character. This is Sir Gilbert Elliot, viceroy of the
Anglo-Corsican kingdom from June 1794 to October 1796. The Oratory of Saint-Roch has preserved his memory.
“It should be noted that the English anthem was sung here. And when the inhabitants passed along
this main street of the town, people bowed before this oratory where
the crown of England had been materialized. Behind me was the throne of
King George III of England. He never came there but had appointed a viceroy
of Corsica called Sir Gilbert Eliot. » We now head towards
another oratory in the heart of the Upper Town. It is through a discreet entrance that we
access the Sainte-Croix chapel. We have a meeting
there, with the soul of Corsica. “The origin of polyphonic singing would come from
the Caucasus Mountains and would have evolved to the Mediterranean basin, taking
influences from the regions where it would have settled. Each country therefore had its polyphonic customs and
traditions. In Corsica, where this polyphonic tradition is well established, a
third singer has come to complete this harmony that is found nowhere
else. From this ensemble of three clashing voices, a fourth appears, which
in Corsica we call the voice of the angel. » « The Corsican anthem, the “Dio vi Salvi Regina” is a hymn dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Corsica,
which was once a papal land, chose this song to place Corsica and the
Corsicans under the protection of the Virgin Mary. » In the Bastia hinterland, the
mountain villages remain close to the sea. This is the Nebbiu region, a fertile land
of cultivation, livestock farming… and Corsican cheeses. “My partner Patrick and I look after
a herd of 500 goats. It’s been about ten years since we
took over the family farm from my parents. My sister
joined us to replace my mother who was in charge of selling our cheeses
in the village markets. » “Having large herds of goats as
we know them today is quite recent. It is a practice that has only existed for
200 years. There may have been some large herds in the
Niolu Mountains with the nomads, but usually each family had only one goat at home.
At that time people did not have milk cartons like today and each household had
one or two goats for the household milk. » « These goats were then looked after by a
collective shepherd. He took care of the goats of the whole village to graze them.
He took them in the morning and in the evening, each goat returned to its house. » “Brocciu is a Corsican cheese
which has an appellation, but we have not adhered to
the AOC “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée” approach.
“We make our local cheeses according to
the region where we are located. In Corsica there are several types of cheese depending on
the region such as Venaco, Sartenais, Callenza. We are in
the Niolu cheese area. » “This is brocciu, typical of here. It is a cheese made with
whey called lactocerum. » “In our region we do
n’t age it, unlike in the south of Corsica where they age it like a
traditional cheese. But we sell it fresh. ” Leaving the Mediterranean coast,
the interior of Corsica reveals itself to be mineral, with jagged reliefs
crossed by large valleys which, very early on, allowed men
to travel the island from one side to the other. A true emblem of the city, the citadel of Corte is an eagle’s nest perched more than
100 meters above the Tavignano river. Built in the Middle Ages, then modified by the
Genoese, it was fortified by the French. Corte is the historical and cultural heart of the island.
Its history is closely linked to that of Pascal Paoli who made Corte the political capital
of the Corsican Republic between 1755 and 1769. In the middle of the Age of Enlightenment, the
first democratic constitution in Europe was born in Corte. Carried
by the progressive ideas of Paoli, it already guaranteed women’s right to vote
. Coins were minted there and a university was built there, which still stands today.
But 1769 marked the end of this young republic and the exile of Paoli;
Corte is taken by the French. By taking the steep,
cobbled streets of the old town, you reach Place Gaffory where
the Bar de la Haute Ville is located. The BHV, as the Cortais like to call it
, is an institution. Three centuries have passed, but its facade
still bears the marks of Genoese bullets, during the capture of the castle by armed men
in rebellion against the Genoese power. At the helm is General Gaffory, whose bronze statue clearly points to
the objective to be achieved. On the bas-reliefs, his wife,
Faustina de Matra, appears, brandishing a torch and ready to set fire to the powder keg, although
their very young son is being held hostage. Nothing will stop the insurgents: the castle
will be taken, the Genoese will cede the town to the Corsicans and Faustine’s unwavering determination will
return her child safe and sound. In this true historical bastion, a house belonged to the Bonaparte family.
Joseph, Napoleon’s elder brother, was born there. When Corte was taken by the
troops of Louis XV, the parents Charles and Letizia Bonaparte abandoned
their home to take refuge in Ajaccio. Corte is a student town
that becomes touristy in the summer, but remains a welcome haven of peace
in high season, apart from the hustle and bustle that can reign
on the coast less than an hour’s drive away. Of all the Mediterranean islands,
Corsica has the highest average altitude . In fact, it has
120 peaks over 2000 meters. Corte is therefore an excellent starting point
for joining the marked trails. The Restonica Valley is a
must-see and accessible place for families. The river rises in
the Rotondo massif at an altitude of 2,600 metres and winds through the gorges
that it itself helped to create. Accessible by short hike,
this listed site is an ideal place in summer to bathe in its
many natural pools. On the granite slopes grows a
species of black pine; the laricio pine, endemic to Corsica, but also
visible in Sicily and Calabria. Perfectly adapted to the very
contrasting climate of altitude, these are powerful trees which can grow up to
50 meters in height and live for more than 500 years. The Restonica Valley is one of the
many natural wonders of Corsica. In southern Corsica there is
another valley; that of Taravo. Amidst the large chestnut groves
and holm oaks, the traditional extensive breeding of Corsican pigs continues. In Zevaco, Angeot Andreucci and
his children maintain all the know-how of an
internationally renowned Corsican charcuterie. “We are pig farmers and we
only work with black or grey pigs. This is a breed that we have
managed to have recognized in the general book of world breeds,
after much effort. » “We are breeders and we work for the AOC (Appellation
d’Origine Contrôlée) of Corsican charcuterie. » “Our pigs live in complete
freedom and in the wild. » « Before the first snows we bring down
all the sheep and pigs from the mountain. Our animals
then feed on vast territories, chestnuts and acorns from the holm oaks that
grow naturally in our mountains. » «Then between December and March
we start butchering, when our pigs have reached 110 to 120
kilos after 18 to 24 months of fattening. » «As we do not use any chemicals
during processing, but only salt and pepper, this gives a softness to our
charcuterie that is incomparable compared to industrial products made with pigs
raised in so-called “modern” structures. “So you should know that
Corsican pork naturally has fat… it’s not lean pork! » « Here we are at the place where we
cure our hams. There you will find prisuttu (hams) that are at least
two years old, and up to three and four years old. » «Here you have all the sausages,
the coppa, the lonzu (say lonza), the hams which are refined above. Knowing
that we are not in a valley where we smoke charcuterie. Sometimes in winter
we can make a little fire with dry chestnut if we have a week of
rain, to catch up with the natural humidity of the cellar. Because traditionally in
the Taravo valley we do not smoke cold meats. It is a cured meat that is
dried and produces a natural flower. » Continuing south, we come to the Alta Roca massif and the
Coscione plateau perched at 1,500 meters. Swept by the winds and covered with
high-altitude grass, a string of small streams crisscross this plateau
and here and there feed water holes, the “Pozzines”, vestiges of ancient
glacial lakes which have filled up. Further on, there are
rock shelters which allowed shepherds
to stay on the summer pastures. “The Coscione plateau is located in the south-central part
of Corsica. Previously, the shepherds came with their animals from all along the coast, from Porto
Vecchio; some came up from Bonifacio or Sartène, Propriano or Porto Polo. And
if this place is called Croci, it was not because of the crosses but because everyone
passed by this sheepfold which was one of the highest on the plateau. “Croci
” therefore means “the crossing”. » «The plateau is 8000 hectares,
Zecavo has 6300 hectares and I am in the middle of this plateau at an altitude of 1600 meters
, at the foot of the Incudine summit. » “It is a place where our ancestors lived from
transhumance, and today we try to continue the customs and traditions because I
think that is the goal. Working and living in your country but also ensuring the safety of
tourists who travel the GR 20. » The Coscione plateau is a famous stage
on the GR 20 route. This long-distance hiking trail is one of the most difficult
but also one of the most beautiful in Europe. Every year it attracts more than 15,000
seasoned hikers to these 200 kilometers of trails. 2 weeks of intensive walking are
necessary… but the spectacle is guaranteed! Crossing the Aiguilles de
Bavella is a good example. Jagged peaks and dizzying walls culminate at 2000 meters and form one of the
most spectacular mountain panoramas on the island. From the Bavella pass,
when the view is clear, you can see the nearby Mediterranean
and the southern coast of the island, our next stop. Located at the same latitude as Barcelona, Bonifacio is the
southernmost city in metropolitan France. It is separated from Italian Sardinia
only by a 12-kilometre strait, the Strait of Bonifacio, where the waters of the
Tyrrhenian Sea meet those of the Mediterranean. A true natural rampart, the high
limestone cliffs, 23 million years old, bear witness to a time when a warm
, shallow sea covered the entire region. Reaching Bonifacio via Campo
Romanello, the cliff path, allows you to follow the coastline 60 meters above the waves and enjoy
spectacular views of the medieval city. For several centuries, the Genoa Gate, with its drawbridge, was the only entrance to
the heart of the citadel. Coats of arms on the facades of the houses
bear witness to the presence of Genoese families. As in the Saint-Dominique street, with
the coat of arms of the Salineri family, who traded in salt by exploiting the saltworks
of the Sperone pond to the west of the city. Opposite the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore
is the residence of the Podestàs, the city’s first magistrates.
There they exercised executive, administrative and judicial powers under
the authority of the Republic of Genoa. Water was a
primary resource in the city. All around the church, flying buttresses
cleverly conceal pipes which collect and direct rainwater
towards a cistern under the church loggia. The first fortifications date back to the 9th century when Boniface II
of Tuscany gave his name to the city. Over the centuries that followed, the
citadel took shape under the impetus of the Genoese who made it a stronghold.
The Bastion of the Standard is born. The fortress is a major defensive element that protects the town and the port
located in a deep fjord. Because Bonifacio takes advantage of an
exceptional situation. The fortress city perched on its cliffs controlled access
to the strait and its fantastic natural harbor sheltered the fleet of
merchant and warships. Today, the Pertusato semaphore watches over the navigation of the 4,000 ships that
pass here each year. At its feet stretches the Bouches
de Bonifacio nature reserve, the largest in France. A stronghold reputed to be impregnable, Bonifacio has
one of the most picturesque structures on the island. On the side of the cliff appears a
path carved into the limestone rock. To access it, you must take the 187 steps of the King of Aragon Staircase,
cut at a 45° angle. Those prone to vertigo should refrain!
According to legend, it was dug in one night by the troops
of King Alfonso V of Aragon. In fact, it was designed before
the siege of 1420 when the king’s ships blockaded the city. More likely, the work was carried out
to access a source of drinking water below the cliffs; where
a sheet of water surfaces through the porous rock. Leaving Bonifacio is not
without regret because the town and its region know how to charm travelers. Situated between the sea and the mountains, Ajaccio benefits from its location
in the heart of the Gulf bearing its name. A Mediterranean city, it clearly displays its
status as a seaside resort with nearly 2,800 hours of sunshine per year. It
also proudly boasts its imperial history. Connected to the mainland by ferry
several times a day, Ajaccio is one of the main ports of entry
to the island. It is also a stopover city for cruise ships, welcoming nearly
half a million passengers each year. Alongside the cruise ships and yachts
lined up in rows, you can discover on the quays of the Tino Rossi port, more
modest but much more authentic boats such as the Mediterranean “Pointus” and the feluccas,
small colorful rowboats with curved shapes that were traditionally used
for transport and coastal fishing. Just above the port, we
find Place Foch, which all Ajaccians call the Palm Tree Square. Its fountain of four lions watches
over the market that takes place there every morning. This is the best place to discover specialties
from all over the island. Figs, marinated olives, grilled peppers, cheeses and cold meats represent
the variety of local products. “I make the charcuterie.
Peppered sausage, dry sausage and ham. » « …or the more mature Alat tomme
. Then you have the soft and fruity Afa tomme. Would you
like a piece of raw milk? The streets of the old town begin
to come alive by mid-morning. A walk along Rue Fesch,
the busiest shopping street, leads to Maison Galeani, the
oldest bakery in Ajaccio, opened in 1830. “The Naquis is a small
chestnut cake that we created, with Myrthe, a Corsican alcohol,
lemon zest and Corsican chestnut flour. » « Our little homemade Canistrellis
with our recipe from my great-grandparents and
which we hold very dear. » “And these are Fritelli
brocciu fritters, which are a very big Corsican specialty that needs no introduction, with fresh cheese inside. They can be
eaten at any time of the day. » “Bastelles are traditional turnovers
made from bread dough. In the villages, the inhabitants made their own bread and when there were
vegetables left, they wrapped them in bread dough and cooked them
over a wood fire. These little vegetable turnovers are a bit like our sandwiches. » “Although Corsica is a small island,
each region has its own specialty. For example, in Ajaccio there are Ambrucciata, small
brocciu tarts and fritters. While in Bastia it will be more like Fiadone, a big
brocciu tart. Each region has its own specialty. » “I offer this one to you, because it has been
damaged. (reply from afar: “thank you”) » Napoleon Bonaparte was born in Ajaccio on August 15, 1769. The family home, which has become a national museum, takes us back to the history of
the man who was Emperor of the French. Napoleon, son of Letizia and Charles
Bonaparte, spent the first years of his life in this house with his
elder brother and younger siblings. Turbulent and quarrelsome, little
Napoleon plays in the courtyard below. Then, at the age of 9, he left his
island to join the military school of Brienne on the continent. He would not
return until 7 years later. In 1793, Corsica was in the midst of
revolutionary turmoil and the Bonapartes were forced to flee to escape the
independence fighters who remained loyal to Paoli. It was through a secret trapdoor that the
family left the house in Ajaccio, before it burned down. Leaving his island for good,
Napoleon, the native son, would pursue an extraordinary destiny that would
leave a lasting mark on an entire continent. Built under the impetus of Cardinal Fesch, Napoleon’s maternal uncle, the Palais Fesch, a
museum of fine arts, is a must-see. A collector at heart, the prelate
built up a gigantic collection of more than
17,000 works, including 16,000 paintings, during his lifetime. Nearly a thousand of
them are presented to the public here. There you can admire paintings by major Italian Renaissance artists such as
Botticelli, Titian and Veronese. An entire level is also
devoted to Corsican painting, with works by
island artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The south wing of the palace houses the
neo-Renaissance Palatine Chapel. Made from stone from Saint-Florent
on Cap Corse, the remarkable trompe-l’oeil decorations were painted
by Jérôme Maglioli, originally from Ajaccio. The building was constructed from 1857 at the
request of the Cardinal to house his remains. In the crypt lie Charles
and Letizia Bonaparte, Napoleon’s parents, alongside Cardinal Fesch. The history of Ajaccio is closely
linked to the exploitation of a natural resource known since antiquity
; The Red Coral of the Mediterranean. Popular belief has long attributed to this scarlet coral the power to
protect against the evil eye. Its fishing is now highly regulated and only a few authorized coral divers, such as
Marien Poggi, still practice it. “The quality of Corsican coral comes
from its scarlet red color. » “There is a lot of coral
in Algeria and Tunisia, but it is not like this one.
This one is very red. » « On the coral there is a matrix
that must be removed. This is what the Neapolitans do in their
processing workshops. » « This one was stuck to the rock, we
unstick it with a hammer, a small hammer. » “And this is what it looks like when it’s
cleaned. This one is ready to go. » “Historically, it was mainly
the Italians who worked with red coral. Today, it is mainly
small coral that is still sold. For example, a small hand like this
will sell easily, but making a necklace with
large balls will be more expensive. » “How many coral divers are there in Corsica? » “In Corsica, there are only 8 of us coral divers. » “In fact, coral is an animal
and it is its exoskeleton that we work with. And if you want to get a
nice red and smooth result, you have to scrape and sand all the small grooves
and pores on its surface. » The only artisan tailor in Ajaccio, Anne-Marie
has a workshop in the old town. In his expert hands, the
coral branches begin a new life. Depending on its quality, raw coral can
be sold for between 2,000 and 5,000 euros per kilo and ultimately reach the price
of gold depending on the jewelry made. Thus, Ajaccio developed thanks to
the exploitation of coral, the true red gold of the Mediterranean which, in the 18th century,
provided a livelihood for three-quarters of its population. Leaving the town via the Sanguinaires road, you reach the remarkable
marine cemetery of Ajaccio. Between its paths and its small squares, line up
like the small houses of a miniature town, funeral chapels and
mausoleums facing the sea. A child of the country and an artist with 500 million
records sold throughout the world, Tino Rossi rests there as close as possible to
this Mediterranean that he sang about. Continuing along the road, you reach the tip
of Parata, topped with its Genoese tower. It watches over the Sanguinaires Islands, the true
“figureheads” of the Gulf of Ajaccio. North of Ajaccio, the Gulf of Porto is a
World Heritage Site. The small marina nestled at the bottom of a
bay is an excellent starting point for discovering the “Calanche” of Piana. It is accessed via a narrow, winding road.
So, to fully enjoy these exceptional landscapes, all you need to do is use the
electrically assisted bicycles which are very easily available. Covering the 12 kilometers is then done
without any difficulty… and what a spectacle! The climb to Piana is exceptional. On the cliffside between the
scrub-covered slopes and the coast below, a setting of rock formations,
jagged and chiseled by time, is revealed. It is erosion that is at the origin of one of the
most beautiful landscapes in Corsica. There we discover the “taffoni”, formations
sculpted by sea winds laden with salt. The red of the porphyry, the igneous rock, contrasts sharply with the
deep blue of the Mediterranean. Arriving at the heights of Piana,
the panorama becomes even more spectacular and shows us to what extent
Corsica is a mountain in the sea. Perched on the heights of the small village of Piana,
the Roches Rouges hotel is an institution. Built in the Belle Époque, it was
completely abandoned in the 1960s. Mady, originally from Piana, devoted all
her energy to bringing it back to life. “I am originally from Piana and I
bought the hotel in 1986, when it had been closed for 20 years, from 1965 to 1986. I had the opportunity to buy it. Of
course he wasn’t in that state…” “The establishment was created by the PLM Hotels company
; Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean. Their clients disembarked in Corsica at Ajaccio. At the time, the
journey between Ajaccio and Calvi took 2 days. The promoters then chose Piana, located
halfway along the route, to make a stop. The customers stayed 2 or 3 days at the hotel,
before continuing on to Calvi. » “They also built two other
hotels, one in Bastia and the other in Zonza. It was a bit like Corsica’s turn at the time. » Capital of Balagne, Calvi is
the most Genoese of Corsican towns. Its citadel, perched on a rocky promontory, dominates the gulf and faces
the Monte Grosso mountain range. At the foot of the ramparts, fishermen and boaters
moor their boats along the Landry quays. There you can see the Salt Tower built in 1495. A former watchtower, it
gradually became used for storing salt. In the summer season, the shopping streets of
the Lower Town come alive from the morning around the Church of Saint Mary Major, which has
a majestic Baroque-style pediment. But the walk irresistibly draws us towards the seaside where the citadel is
just waiting to be stormed. To access the interior of the fortifications,
you take the only gate and its paved alleyway. A former Genoese stronghold since the 13th
century, it was the Office Saint-Georges, the powerful bank of the Maritime Republic of Genoa, which had
the ramparts of the citadel built in 1453. A century later, the fortress resisted the siege of the French allied with the Turks,
who were unable to capture it. Above the Place d’Armes stands
the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. The building, also in the
Baroque style, is very sober. To the right of the heart, we can see a black Christ. The Saint-Antoine Oratory is accessed through a
discreet entrance. The brotherhood that occupied it had the mission of welcoming
the poor and the destitute. The hermit Saint-Antoine and his pig,
work of the Corsican artist Toni Casalonga, watch over the Oratory facing the bay of Calvi. “So, madam, where are you going
?” Ébadour… (Clac) Thank you very much.” To reach the many
coastal bathing spots, it is recommended to take the little
beach train between Calvi and Ile Rousse. It is the best way to avoid traffic in
summer while fully enjoying the scenery. The islanders affectionately call it “the
tremblotant”. No speed record here, but a real pleasure to travel along the coast and reach one of the
many beaches under the pine forest. The Corsican rail network, 230 kilometers long, also crisscrosses the mountainous interior of
the island, serving Ajaccio, Corte and Bastia. After a 20-minute journey,
you arrive at your destination. Inland, the medieval village of Pigna
sums up the charm of Balagne. In the heart of the village, a listed hotel has preserved traces of
typical Mediterranean agriculture. The press attests that there was a
oil mill. The climatic conditions in Balagne are optimal for growing
olive trees, where they never suffer from frost. The wild olive tree has always been
present in Corsica. It was the Phoenicians who first grafted them. An ancient variety, the Sabina,
is still present in the region. The village of Pigna is also known
for its many craftsmen. One of them, Ugo Casalonga, has been making
traditional musical instruments for 35 years. “It is the traditional Corsican Cistre, which is
called Cetera in Corsican. Arriving from southern Italy, the instrument was present in Corsica in the
19th and 20th centuries and made on the island. Then it completely disappeared in the middle of the 20th
century. It was rediscovered at the end of the 1970s at the time of the revival
of traditional culture.” “A first copy of an
instrument that was found in Corsica in Castagniccia, was made in Italy, because at the time
there were no more luthiers in our region. It is the oldest instrument
of the 13 that we found. “A young luthier from Corte, Michel Buresi,
then went to Italy to follow the reconstruction of this instrument. And it is
thanks to him, that in the early 80s, I built my first instrument, at first
for myself, and since then I have never stopped. ” Our stop in Calvi concludes our
tour of Corsica. We discovered a territory of rare beauty where
traditions are still very present. Our trip cannot end without a
last visit to the imperial city. On August 15, Ajaccio commemorates
the birth of Napoleon I. It is also the day when we celebrate the Virgin
Mary, the protective figure of Corsica. Patron saint of the island of beauty, she is dear to the heart islanders who
celebrate it every year with fervor. It is the occasion for the city to
celebrate the Emperor of the French, during large-scale reenactments
in costumes and gunpowder weapons. More than 500 volunteer and passionate extras come from all over Europe at the invitation
of the Imperial Guard Association of Ajaccio. This evening brings to life for the public the
great victories of the Napoleonic epic. It is also the unique opportunity to see
not one… but two emperors! Thus ends our stay on the island of beauty. Rich in history and traditions,
landscapes and flavors, Corsica, so whole and authentic, is
just waiting to be discovered.
La Corse est un monde à part, posé sur la Méditerranée. Une île où chaque crique, chaque village, chaque sentier résonne d’un souffle ancien, entre nature grandiose et traditions vivantes.
✋Les plus belles destinations, c’est ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez vous ! 🙏
Ce documentaire vous emmène au fil des routes corses, du Cap Corse à Bonifacio, de Bastia à Calvi, à la rencontre de celles et ceux qui incarnent l’âme insulaire. De l’élevage de cochons en liberté aux chants polyphoniques ancestraux, des falaises sculptées du sud aux fromageries de montagne, ce voyage nous plonge dans une Corse entière, authentique, puissante. Corté et son passé révolutionnaire, Ajaccio et les traces de Napoléon, les ports baignés de lumière, les traditions religieuses, l’artisanat, la gastronomie : tout ici nous parle d’identité farouche et de beauté intacte.
00:00 – Cap Corse, tours génoises et maisons d’Américains
03:50 – Bastia, port, citadelle et pêche traditionnelle
07:40 – Chants corses et spiritualité
09:50 – Élevage et fromages dans le Nébiu
12:20 – Corté, ville d’histoire et de révolte
15:20 – Vallée de l’Arestonica et randonnées
17:10 – Cochons en liberté et charcuterie d’exception
20:10 – Le plateau du Couchon, cœur de la Corse
22:30 – Bonifacio et ses falaises vertigineuses
26:30 – Ajaccio, marché, artisanat et mémoire de Napoléon
30:10 – Palais Fesch et corail rouge
34:50 – Golfe de Porto et calanques de Piana
41:50 – Calvi, citadelle et traditions musicales
45:40 – Artisanat et musique en Balagne
48:00 – Fête du 15 août à Ajaccio, entre Vierge Marie et épopée napoléonienne
#Corse #Méditerranée #Bonifacio
LA CORSE, BELLE ET MEDITERRANEENNE
Un film de Franck Decluzet
Droits réservés Ampersand