ワインと絶景、時々世界遺産〜ジョージア前編〜　(3)骨折した脚でぐるっと3国コーカサスへGO！

ワインと絶景、時々世界遺産〜ジョージア前編〜　(3)骨折した脚でぐるっと3国コーカサスへGO！

I’m ☆AO☆, and I set off on a journey through the Caucasus— —with a fractured fibula and a walking stick in hand! We spent two nights in Azerbaijan, then walked across the border into Georgia with all our bags. This is the day’s schedule planned by Sakura Travel. We arrived at 2 PM, and our Georgian guide and driver were there to meet us. We greeted them with stories of border struggles… and serious hunger. We had asked the winery to prepare a light meal for our arrival. First, we exchanged the new US dollars we brought from Thailand for Georgian lari. Azerbaijani manat usually can’t be exchanged outside the country,
but it’s possible at this border crossing. Georgia’s currency is the lari—and the conversion is tricky!
I usually calculate everything based on Thai baht. We got to the winery just as the clock hit 3 PM. Georgia is known as the cradle of wine, boasting a winemaking tradition that goes back some 8,000 years. The traditional method of fermenting and aging wine in qvevri—clay vessels buried in the ground— was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013. The Kakheti region is one of Georgia’s most important wine-producing areas. We were taken to a family-run winery featured in guidebooks—Wine Yard No.1. What a lovely welcome—the table was beautifully set for us. Red wine was served right away—what a treat! Finally, I’m tasting genuine Georgian red wine in its homeland. This unglazed clay cup is for white wine, they told us. A big, boat-shaped loaf of shoti puri, a Kakheti specialty, was served fresh from the oven. Georgians call their bread puri. Stone-oven baking makes it intensely aromatic and crisp. One after another, traditional Georgian starters were brought to the table. I didn’t catch it clearly back then, but the Georgian word for “cheers” is Gaumarjos. “Sakartvelo” is how you say “Georgia” in Georgian—kind of like how “Nihon” means Japan in Japanese. The country used to be called “Gruzia,” In 2015, Japan switched to “Georgia” to drop the Soviet-era term. You might be surprised the name changed, but the country has gone by several names over time. Crispy potatoes paired with olives and fresh herbs—so tasty! Wait—there’s more!? Could this be…? It may look like pizza, but this is khachapuri, a traditional Georgian dish. We usually think of khachapuri as the boat-shaped, egg-topped bread, yet the round style is actually more common across Georgia. It varies by region and household, and in Kakheti, it’s thinner and crispier. So much for a light lunch—we were absolutely full by the end! Cheers with white wine! Cheers with chacha! Cheers to Deda—the mother who prepared this incredible meal! She resembles my own mom so much—it truly moved me. Interestingly, in Georgian, “mama” doesn’t mean mom—it means dad! After the meal, “mama” gave us an explanation of how they make their wine. Along with the wine, he explained the clay pots and tools they use in winemaking. It’s not just about the alcohol—Georgians truly enjoy a lively feast and celebration. This animal horn is known as a kantsi—a traditional Georgian wine vessel. You must drink it all before putting it down— plus, they had it in adorable mini sizes! Interestingly, Shikoku in Japan has a similar cup, called a beku-sakazuki. In the end, we stayed until after 5 PM— then headed back to the hotel, a little tipsy. Thank you for the wonderful meal! This is inside the hotel—a space where qvevri vessels are buried in the ground for fermentation and aging. We joined the hotel’s wine tour along with other guests. Downstairs, we found a well-equipped and elegant wine cellar. Schuchmann Wines combines a winery with a hotel resort. It’s a fairly large-scale winery, with 60 hectares of vineyards. Schuchmann Wines was founded in 2008 by a German who fell in love with Georgia— its people, its land, and its wine. They continue to craft wine that blends tradition with innovation. The winemaking is led by Mr. Giorgi, a third-generation winemaker— like a master toji in sake brewing. These wines are exported abroad and can be found in Japan —but sadly, I wasn’t able to find any info about availability in Thailand. Following the tour, we headed to the restaurant for a wine tasting session. Yay! Though to be honest, it feels like we’ve been drinking non-stop. We got to try three wines from Schuchmann’s top-tier collection, the Vinoterra series. The tasting began with an amber wine using Mtsvane, a traditional local grape. The wine is matured together with the skins in traditional qvevri jars for 6 to 8 months, resulting in a rich, herbal aroma and layered flavor. The second wine was an amber wine made from Kisi, another traditional Georgian grape. Now we’ll compare the two amber wines—looking at their color, flavor, and aroma. Globally, it’s called “orange wine,” but “amber” suits Georgian qvevri wines better. With their floral aroma and vibrant look, you’d expect them to be sweet— but Georgians, true lovers of alcohol, prefer their wines dry. Despite their fruity aroma, all of them had a dry, refined taste. The red wine came from Saperavi, the iconic black grape of Georgia. Using qvevri for red wine isn’t very common, but Schuchmann chooses to do it with care and intention. The aroma hinted at richer tannins— this is a wine I’d love with a hearty meal! After our big 3 p.m. meal, we were still stuffed— so we had just a light mushroom salad for dinner. A full day that began in Sheki, took us across the border, and ended with a feast in Kakheti has finally wrapped up. Good morning, Kakheti! It’s Day 4 in the Caucasus. We hurried through check-in yesterday, drank wine, and passed out— leaving no time to explore the hotel. But we’ll be back here for our last two nights. On weekdays, breakfast is made to order. See you soon! Today’s journey takes us through Tsinandali, Sighnaghi, and Bodbe Monastery, before arriving in the heart of Georgia—Tbilisi. Our first stop was the Tsinandali Estate, once the home of a 19th-century poet. The estate is renowned as a symbol of Georgia’s rich winemaking culture. The estate features a memorial museum, English-style gardens, a winery, wine cellar, hotel, and café. Photography wasn’t allowed inside, but the elegant furnishings gave a vivid glimpse into the life of 19th-century nobility. And now, the moment we’d been waiting for—wine! Down the stairs and deep inside, we found a hidden space like this. Time for a tasting! What makes these wines special is their fusion of local Georgian grapes with 19th-century European winemaking techniques- —a true pioneer of modern Georgian wine. Its bright acidity and delicate scent felt similar to more familiar styles. In Georgia, they really pour generously at every wine tasting! The wines here were quite pricey, so we just got the explanation. The ones we tasted were deep in flavor but smooth and easy to enjoy. They also had lots of ChaCha options—we grabbed a few mini bottles to take home. Chacha, sometimes called Georgian grappa, is a strong distilled liquor made from grapes. Our next stop was a restaurant right next to the city walls of Sighnaghi. The view from the terrace was so stunning, I half-joked that the Great Wall of China must’ve stretched this far. But hey—this isn’t the Silk Road, right? If the weather is good, the terrace offers stunning views of the Alazani Valley and the majestic Caucasus Mountains. The cold wind and sudden rain chased us off the terrace— into the restaurant. Our first Georgian beer calls for a toast—cheers! I was all excited to order khinkali, but they were sold out—what a shock! It was cold, so I went for some soup. I asked for the boat-shaped khachapuri—no luck! The dish arrived piping hot in a clay pot—mushrooms sautéed with rich sulguni cheese. And here’s another Georgian specialty—Shkmeruli. I haven’t tried the Matsuya version back in Japan, but maybe it’s similar? It’s a little different from what I had at a Georgian restaurant in Bangkok. No khinkali today, so I went with dumplings instead—these are pelmeni, the Russian kind. That’s smetana on the side—Russian sour cream. Dumplings aren’t just for soy sauce! Another wine tour after lunch—I think I’m getting the hang of this! What surprised me here was that the tour was conducted in Russian. It might be because we were with a Russian-speaking group, but I heard that many Russian visitors come here. And yes—it was time for another tasting! The crowd had grown so large that even getting a glass took some effort. Thankfully, the Georgian guide translated the Russian explanations into English. Unfortunately, I was a bit overwhelmed by all the Russian… and I honestly don’t remember much about this tasting. We stepped outside, and my friend went for a walk along the top of the fortress wall. There are a total of 23 towers, and the wall stretches approximately 4.5 kilometers. There were too many people, it was cold, narrow, and far… she gave up and came back halfway. We arrived at Bodbe Monastery, a sacred site of the Georgian Orthodox Church, located about 2 kilometers from Sighnaghi. This is the resting place of Saint Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. Unfortunately, the main cathedral at the back was under renovation, so we couldn’t go inside. To make matters worse, the ground was wet and slippery, so we gave up on visiting Saint Nino’s spring. Watching our Georgian guide, I could truly sense that this is a sacred place of deep faith. Someday, I hope to return on a sunny day—together with a visit to Sighnaghi, the City of Love. Even though it was raining, I couldn’t use umbrellas — luckily, it was just a light drizzle. We checked into our hotel in Tbilisi! Spacious and clean, but the room was freezing the first night. After we complained, it got better the next day. My friend’s room was the same—maybe it was the default setting? Maybe it felt even colder because of the temperature difference from Thailand. Our first meal in Tbilisi was a welcome dinner with a folk show — a gift from Sakura Travel. This restaurant offers traditional Georgian dance and music up close. When I walked in with my cane, they kindly operated this cute lift for me. It seems to be quite a large-scale restaurant. The meal was set, and traditional Georgian dishes kept coming one after another. Honestly, I didn’t expect much from a show restaurant — but I was pleasantly surprised. Everything was delicious! I’ve had khachapuri a few times now,
and I’m starting to notice the differences in each one. This is Imeretian-style — the most common type of Khachapuri in Georgia. This is Georgian BBQ — pork mtsvadi. Simple and juicy! Served bubbling hot in a clay pot —
the famous Georgian dish, Shkmeruli. It’s chicken in garlic cream sauce —
the best Shkmeruli I’ve ever had. They said the best way is to soak the bread in the sauce —
and they were right! This definitely calls for red wine —
so we ordered Saperavi, Georgia’s signature red. We enjoyed its deep color and rich, full-bodied flavor. I couldn’t see well from my seat, but the fast footwork and spins were unforgettable. The folk show really lifted our spirits— next time, I’d love to enjoy a full stage performance. Day 4 wrapped up safely—
another day of lots of wine! Good morning, Tbilisi!
Breakfast doesn’t open until 8:00—what a surprise! Same in Azerbaijan—
mornings seem to start late around here. They had churchkhela! Yogurt, cheese, and nuts were plentiful too—a simple yet satisfying breakfast. Today we’re heading to Mtskheta, Georgia’s ancient capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Plans for the latter half of the day have changed significantly, but off we go anyway! Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia, known for its beautiful stone buildings and historic churches. Our first stop was Jvari Monastery, built in the 6th century. It is said to be the sacred site where Saint Nino erected a cross, and due to its historical and religious significance, it has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Greeting us there was… Dogs sleeping peacefully—aren’t they cold? 🐕 The view from the hilltop church is amazing—but it’s freezing! Interesting terrain—this town sits at the confluence of two rivers. You can also see the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the Samtavro Monastery, both part of the World Heritage site. Long ago, the king of Mtskheta lost his sight. After praying to Saint Nino’s God, he miraculously regained his vision and converted to Christianity. Georgia then became the second country in the world to adopt Christianity as its state religion. Saint Nino carried a wooden cross bound with her own hair, made from grapevines. This “Saint Nino’s Cross” became a symbol of the Georgian Orthodox Church. She placed the cross and prayed on the hill where Jvari Monastery now stands. Saint Nino was from Cappadocia and raised in a devout Christian family. She came to Georgia for a reason and became a rare example of a woman preaching alone in a foreign land. When entering a Georgian church, women cover their heads and hips, and men take off their hats. We learned the origins of the Georgian Orthodox Church from our guide at this church. Down the hill into town. Rain is coming. Arrived at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Street lined with stalls. Wow, it’s that unique Georgian sweet I always see in pictures! This is called Churchkhela, but our guide promised to show us a good one at the market later, so we didn’t buy it here. There were also lots of dried fruits and other items. Are these spice sets? Svetitskhoveli is like the main cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church. I stepped inside and found myself speaking in a whisper. Here, it is said that the robe of Christ, worn during the crucifixion, is buried beneath the cathedral. This cathedral is also the final resting place of former kings of Georgia. The floor is lined with tombs—a symbol of the humility of the deceased and their ongoing connection to the prayers of the living. By stepping over them, the living are said to physically feel the presence and weight of their prayers, honoring the souls who rest beneath. This fresco was whitewashed during the Russian Empire’s rule and later restored in the 20th century. Among the many icons of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child throughout the cathedral, this one left the deepest impression on me. As we stepped outside, the clock struck noon and the sound of the bells echoed all around. We could see the Jvari Monastery we visited earlier, standing atop the hill. Now, it’s time for the much-anticipated lunch! We skipped the planned winery visit and cave city tour. Instead, our guide took us to a popular restaurant in the town of Gori, just for us to enjoy some fish dishes. There were large tanks everywhere! Let’s eat and drink to our heart’s content! We placed our order while getting recommendations from our guide. First up was a spicy seafood soup. Wow, it’s packed with ingredients! Just the way Japanese people like it — everyone was thrilled! A luxurious bean-filled Khachapuri, ordered by our vegetarian driver. In the Georgian Orthodox Church, there is a fasting period of about seven weeks before Easter, during which consumption of animal products is restricted. Since he always shares his vegetarian meals with us, I end up overeating every time. I spotted *Ukha*, a Russian fish soup, on the menu and couldn’t resist ordering it. It came as a set with Chacha — clearly tailored for Russian guests! Ta-da! This is the grilled sturgeon — it was delicious, and I’d love to have it again! This is *Pkhali*, the dish that first made me take notice of the country Georgia. I first tasted it at an herb-themed cooking event and thought, “Delicious! What is this?” They told me it was Georgian cuisine.
“Georgia? You mean the U.S. state?” — that was my reaction! That was when I first learned that “Gruzia” had become “Georgia” — it was January 2018. Ever since then, I had set my heart on visiting Georgia. I planned the trip for April 2020 — but had to cancel due to COVID. Finally, I’m really here! That’s exactly how it feels — and I’m savoring every bite of Georgian cuisine. The grilled octopus was amazing too! I had a lot of it in Malta, but this one was more hearty and satisfying — – it really impressed me. As a fish-loving Japanese, I just couldn’t pass this up — – fried herring! I never expected to enjoy such delicious seafood in Georgia — – I’m absolutely thrilled! Huge thanks to our amazing guide! Next, we visited the Stalin Museum in Gori, a town in central Georgia. A large museum dedicated to the life of Joseph Stalin, the former leader of the Soviet Union, stands in this town—his birthplace. Stalin was born in Gori in 1878 and studied theology at a seminary in his youth. Later, he embraced revolutionary ideas and joined the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, he rose to power as a leader under Lenin. From the 1920s until his death in 1953, he effectively ruled the Soviet Union. It’s remarkable that a figure who led the industrialization of the Soviet Union and carried it through World War II was born in this small town. However, he was also a dictator who ruled through fear, responsible for the Great Purge and the widespread use of forced labor camps. In his hometown of Gori, where he grew up as a boy, a museum was established to trace his life chronologically. To be honest, I wasn’t particularly interested in a museum about a dictator, but my friend said, “Since we’re here, why not?”—so we came. My impression? I’m glad we came! This museum doesn’t glorify or criticize Stalin— —it simply exists as a place to learn and understand. Learning about both the glory and the horrors of history is essential for understanding the world today. So, it turned out to be a place that really made me reflect—something that doesn’t happen often. The museum guide here gave incredibly thorough and easy-to-understand explanations. Thanks to our guide translating everything into Japanese, we were able to understand it well. Without the explanations, I probably would’ve just looked at the photos and said, “Oh, I see,” or “Hmm,” and that would’ve been it. Outside the museum, there’s a bulletproof train said to have been used by Stalin to plan key strategies during World War II. Stalin had a fear of flying, so he traveled exclusively by his own private train. I expected something more luxurious, but it seems safety was the top priority. This heavy armored train witnessed countless secret meetings. Right next to it stands a modest two-room house where Stalin lived with his shoemaker father and family until he was four. It left a strong impression. It was already dinner time back in Tbilisi, but we were still full from earlier. We had a light meal at a small basement-level restaurant a few doors down from our hotel. Finally got to eat khinkali here! So good—but I’m so full! Just grilled mushrooms with cheese, a salad, and house wine—simple and perfect. I studied how to eat khinkali beforehand, but it’s still a bit tricky. Too hot to hold, and using a fork makes the juice spill! It was tough at first, but I got better! Good morning, Georgia! Our hungry group waited at the door for the hotel breakfast to start at 8 AM. Georgia’s been packed so far—but there’s one more day left, so stay with me! Today was our long-awaited trip to Kazbegi—but snow closed the road! It had been cold since we arrived—under 10°C even in Tbilisi. It takes three hours to get to Kazbegi, and we were starting to feel a bit tired from the trip— ‐ so we thought staying closer might be fine. Most of all, it was freezing! The forecast said 10–20°C, but it stayed below 10 every day. I wasn’t ready! I was worried about the cold in Kazbegi, so I was okay skipping it. Brutally cold for someone coming from Thailand’s summer. Souvenir shops were stocked with warm gear—as if they knew! So many cute ones I wanted—but no use for them back in Thailand! But my friend bought fleece-lined overpants—and they turned out to be super useful later! This souvenir shop is located at a scenic viewpoint overlooking the reservoir. There were many tourists—maybe some gave up on Kazbegi too. When we arrived at the Ananuri parking lot, our guide waved us over—“This way, this way!” We followed him, and… From the bridge, you get a perfect view of the church and fortress— – what a hidden gem with no other tourists around! This fortress complex, built in the 16th–17th century on the shore of the reservoir, served as the base of the dukes who ruled the region. It combined both military and religious functions. We’re walking down a bit of a long path toward the buildings. This large church is well-preserved, and you can see reliefs of the Georgian cross and other carvings on its outer walls. At the entrance, there were also carvings of grape leaves and coin patterns. Inside, you can see several frescoes on the walls. The guide said this place is usually crowded with tourists, so we’re lucky today. The guide was grumbling that some people make noise even though it’s a church… We stepped outside and took a walk around the fortress grounds. It feels like we’ve been transported back to the medieval world. Apparently, that feeling is common— there was even a costume rental service offering traditional medieval outfits! We climbed to the upper fortress—there’s still a big watchtower there.
I didn’t go in, so I’m just watching this footage thinking, “Wow!” I saw this poster in the parking lot—hang gliding? The view must be amazing… but still! Alright! After soaking in the history of Ananuri, it’s time to head north and savor some khinkali! We got a table at noon. Since there are no more plans for today, we can take our time and relax. This is Pasanauri, a village renowned as the home of authentic Khinkali. It’s the birthplace of Khinkali, strategically located between Kazbegi and Tbilisi. There are many good restaurants here— ‐some popular with tourists for being cheap and tasty, and others more upscale and relaxing. Since we had time, we chose the latter and came to a cozy restaurant called **GUDA**. A platter of pickles, featuring the now-familiar *jonjoli*. We ordered three of the recommended mushroom soups, and they kindly served individual portions for everyone. This is Chakapuli — a traditional spring stew known for its fresh herbs and tangy flavor. It was made with tkemali plums and tarragon— an addictive and uniquely delicious flavor you won’t find anywhere else. Huh? A khachapuri we didn’t order just arrived! It’s a regional specialty, and our guide ordered it for us, saying,
“You probably haven’t tried this one yet, have you?” Well, I haven’t—but I’m already so full, I’m not sure I can eat it! look! Here come the khinkali—one after another! There are many types of khinkali—some simple with just beef or pork, and others with herbs, each representing different regions. They also had vegetarian khinkali, filled with mushrooms or potatoes. I had studied how to eat khinkali— —hold the top knot, sip the broth without spilling, and then take a bite— —but they were too hot to hold! Seems like it’s best to wait a bit for them to cool down. I’ll try to copy how our Georgian driver eats them. Well, his are vegetarian, so there’s no meat juice—but still! Little by little, I got used to it and managed to eat them properly. This dessert, recommended by our guide, wasn’t too sweet — just right! Maybe Georgians love drinking more than sweets? So stuffed! Left so much… What should we do? Guide says leftover khinkali taste great grilled or fried! Couldn’t resist—asked for grilled ones! Stuffed… but somehow made room for grilled khinkali! The interior of GUDA restaurant is lovely! We took the leftovers back and had them at the hotel that night. The dogs came over when we got in the car. Sorry, nothing for you! Stopped by Carrefour on the way back—took longer than expected! More on that next time! That’s all for Part 1: Georgia in the Caucasus trip! Coming up: Armenia, followed by Georgia Part 2! Hope you subscribe and come along for more! Please like the video and share your thoughts in the comments! See you next time!

バンコク在住もうすぐ30年の☆青☆の旅チャンネル（プロフィールは最後に）
今回は、「骨折した足でぐるっと3国コーカサスへGO！」第3弾
いよいよアゼルバイジャンからジョージアに入国、ジョージアの食と文化を大満喫した4日間についてお届けします。
盛りだくさん過ぎて詰め込んだら、すごい早口になってしまいました(反省)。
途中のジョージア語は全く発音等チェックできていないので、表記やしゃべり言葉について間違いがあったらご容赦ください。

00:00 Opening
01:08 Winery Lunch (Wine Yard N1)
05:05 Wine Tour (Schuchmann)
07:57 Tsinandali & Monastery
13:16 Tbilisi & Folk Show
15:35 Mtskheta Heritage
20:40 Sturgeon Seafood Lunch
23:24 Stalin Museum
27:07 Ananuri Fortress
30:40 Khinkali Lunch
33:44 Ending

参考リンク
Wine Yard N1　
https://www.youtube.com/@wineyardn1wineyardn190

ELLE グルメ　ー　プハリのサイト
https://www.elle.com/jp/gourmet/gourmet-recipes/a48893/gco-3112/

スターリン博物館
悪の帝王？英雄？ジョージア・ゴリのスターリン博物館完全ガイド | Ça voir! －さぼわーる－
https://ca-voir.com/gori-stalin-museum-jp
(行かれる前にこれで予習すると完璧！　ガイドがなくてもある程度わかります。その他、ジョージア情報満載！)

☆青☆のコーカサスシリーズ

☆青☆プロフィール
おにいさん(=旦那さん)とあちこち旅をするのが人生最大の楽しみ
日本全国47都道府県、タイ全国77県制覇！　海外は55か国程度訪問
1967年秋田県鹿角市生まれ
1988年当時の東京銀行入行
1996年12月よりタイ駐在・結婚・退職 → コンサルティング会社の副社長 → 野菜ソムリエプロ → 健幸料理の店「SALADee」開店・閉店 → コンサルティング会社の副社長に戻る・YouTubeスタート（←今ここ）

2025年からチャンネル名を SALADee Travel Diaryから　☆青☆の旅時間 – AO’s Travel Moments -に変更しました。
まだ慣れないので不定期更新となりますが、月2回をめざしますので、どうぞチャンネル登録をお願いします。

#ジョージア旅行　#世界遺産巡り　#ジョージア料理　#georgia #コーカサス