【東京ディープな街歩き】昭和レトロな街並み「三ノ輪」から吉原跡地、春のバラ園を巡る旅

【東京ディープな街歩き】昭和レトロな街並み「三ノ輪」から吉原跡地、春のバラ園を巡る旅

Today, I’m taking a walk through some old-school neighborhoods. in Tokyo. I’m heading to the Minowa area in Taito City, but before that, I’ve got a quick stop I want to make. I’m getting off at JR Komagome Station, and exiting from the North Exit. The first stop is here. I heard the spring roses are in full bloom now, so I’m going to see them. Approximately 10 minutes walk from JR Komagome Station I visited in mid-May during the Spring Rose Festival. It’s more crowded than I expected. For tickets: cashless payments to the left, cash payments to the right window. Admission fee: ¥150 Kyu-Furukawa Gardens is a Taisho-era garden featuring a Western-style house, a Western garden, and a Japanese garden. In the garden, you can enjoy seasonal flowers, including roses that bloom in spring and autumn. This Western-style house was the main residence of the Furukawa family, a wealthy zaibatsu, and was designed by the British architect Josiah Conder. A Western-style garden spreads out in front of the building. It’s a stunning harmony of Western-style architecture and roses that can only be seen during rose season. There’s a nice smell ♡ I saw lots of rosebuds too, so it seems like the roses will be in bloom for a while yet. Beneath the Western-style garden, there is an authentic Japanese garden. The garden was designed by Jihei Ogawa, the seventh-generation master gardener from Kyoto, also known as Shichidaime Ueji. (1860-1933) He also created many famous gardens in Kyoto, including Heian Shrine and Maruyama Park. Without the skyscrapers behind, you’d almost forget this is Tokyo. The autumn leaves must be beautiful here, too… There’s also Otaki Waterfall, which has a drop of over 10 meters. This beautiful garden is lovingly maintained by dedicated craftsmen. Walking through Kyu-Furukawa Gardens, I felt like it’s a real oasis in the city. After about a 20-minute walk, I arrived at Kajiwara Station on the Toden Arakawa Line. The Toden Arakawa Line is the only streetcar line in Tokyo. (Fare: 170 yen per ride) It connects Waseda Station in Shinjuku with Minowabashi Station in Taito. Many beautiful roses are also blooming along the Toden Arakawa Line. Get off at the last stop, Minowabashi Minowabashi Station is a popular photo spot where you can enjoy the Toden streetcar and roses together! This area still retains the nostalgic atmosphere of Tokyo’s traditional shitamachi neighborhoods. “Joyful Minowa Shopping Street” near the station. Founded in the Taisho era, it is one of the oldest shopping arcades in Tokyo. Let’s walk for a while. It’s about 400 meters long. There is a bakery with a nostalgic sign, A Japanese sweets shop that has been in business for over 50 years. Fluffy brown sugar dorayaki is popular here. Even after more than 100 years, it’s still loved by the local people. The prices are really reasonable, and the vegetables are affordable too! This charming wooden building is Sunaba Sohonke, a soba restaurant founded in the Edo period. Too bad…it was closed that day. There were some long-established shops, as well as a few newer-looking ones. The “Toden Cafe” has an impressive diorama. They’re showing chirimen (crepe) crafts here. Let’s take a break at this shop. Founded in 1984, this shop mainly sells coffee beans. Inside, there are just five counter seats. The owner was very friendly, and I had a great time. They offer a wide variety of coffee, and the prices are very reasonable. I asked for the Toden Blend coffee. (430 yen) Such a perfectly balanced coffee—you’ll want one every day. I liked it so much, I bought some to bring home.
 (Toden Blend: 200g / 1500 yen) About a 15-minute walk from Minowabashi Station, this is the Yoshiwara Ohmon intersection. Nearby, there’s ‘Dote no Iseya,’ a tempura shop with over 100 years of history, There’s a statue of Ashita no Joe, a once-popular manga character. This area was home to Yoshiwara, Edo’s largest red-light district. It’s roughly 1 km north of Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa. Let’s go visit the site where the red-light district used to be. Many works set in Yoshiwara have been produced across various genres, including dramas, movies, and anime. Yoshiwara was a government-sanctioned red-light district that flourished during the Edo period. More than just a red-light district, it was a cultural hub of Edo and one of the city’s biggest tourist attractions. This road bends in a strange way so you can’t see Yoshiwara directly from the main street. The street layout and land plots of the Yoshiwara site remain much the same as they were. Is this what it was like? After a few minutes’ walk from the intersection, I arrived at the former site of Yoshiwara Ohmon. This was the only entrance to the Yoshiwara red-light district. Now, only two pillars stand here. There was also an information board. Yoshiwara Shrine was founded in 1881 by merging five Inari shrines and the Yoshiwara Benzaiten from the red-light district. Yoshiwara Shrine, a historic place closely connected to the history of the red-light district. The deity enshrined here is said to grant women’s wishes, and the shrine was especially revered by the courtesans. I am now back at the Yoshiwara Ohmon crossing. This lone willow tree is known as the ‘Mikaeri Yanagi.’ Legend says customers would turn back here, reluctant to say goodbye to the red-light district. A little away from the site of Yoshiwara, there is Jōkan-ji Temple. Because deceased courtesans were thrown here for burial, it is also called ‘Nagekomi-dera’ (the ‘Throw-in Temple’). About 11,000 Yoshiwara courtesans are buried here. Yoshiwara is known as a place where a vibrant culture flourished, but it’s also true that the courtesans lived under harsh conditions and strict restrictions. Here I am along the Sumida River. The cool bridge you see over the Sumida River is Shirahige Bridge. How’s the view from the bridge? Let’s walk a bit and see for ourselves. What a nice view! It’s a perfect spot to see the Tokyo Skytree! Wow, the Sumida River is really wide when you see it like this. This area is the boundary, and across the bridge is Sumida Ward. The riverbank is well kept. After this, I’m going to Ishihama Shrine. That big round thing is a gas tank — a pretty cool view! Before visiting the shrine, let’s have lunch at the shop next to it. It’s a nice day, so I’m sitting outside on the terrace. The menu offers a variety of dishes, from savory meals to sweets. I’ll have the good-value lunch set! Homemade Japanese Fried Chicken Set : 780 yen
 (Karaage Teishoku) Includes salad, pickles, macaroni salad, and soup. Let’s eat! You just don’t see prices like this in downtown Tokyo… It’s freshly fried and piping hot. Super crispy and really juicy♡ The taste is nice and strong. Really filling and so tasty! Thank you for the meal! Those dumplings look so tasty! Gotta try them next time. They also had a take-out corner. Now, let’s head to the shrine. Ishihama Shrine is said to have been founded in 724 by the order of Emperor Shōmu. The front torii gate was built in 1779 during the Edo period, and the one in the back was built in 1749. This is the oldest shrine in Arakawa Ward. The shrine is dedicated to Amaterasu, the sun goddess, and Toyouke, the goddess of food and farming. The main hall is built in the traditional Shinmei-zukuri style, one of the oldest Shinto architectural forms. It’s said that Minamoto no Yoritomo prayed for victory here during his campaign against the Ōshū region—and he won. I put in a coin as an offering. 🙏 Beautiful… This shrine, located along the Sumida River, is said to have been a popular scenic spot in Edo. In 1988, the shrine was relocated slightly east to this spot due to the construction of the Sumida River ‘super levee’. From the mid-Edo period, more people started visiting the shrine, and tea houses selling dengaku made with Yoshiwara tofu lined the area and thrived. It is said that visitors to Yoshiwara often came to this place as well. Such a quiet shrine. The air on the shrine grounds feels fresh and calm. This is the modern view from the shrine. It’s a nice sight in its own way. How did you like this local Tokyo walk? I’d be happy if you could subscribe and like the video if you enjoyed it! ☺️ Thank you for watching!

今回は、東京の三ノ輪エリアをのんびり街歩きしました。
昭和レトロな雰囲気が漂う「ジョイフル三ノ輪商店街」から、かつて江戸最大の花街だった「吉原遊郭」の跡地、隅田川沿いの静かな「石浜神社」など、歴史を感じるスポットを巡ります。
また、春のバラが見頃を迎えた「旧古河庭園」にも立ち寄りました。
東京のローカルな魅力と春の景色を楽しんでいただけたらうれしいです🌹

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📍訪れた場所（訪問順） :

旧古河庭園
https://maps.app.goo.gl/2J4GAHJzBLFe5pYEA

ジョイフル三ノ輪商店街
https://maps.app.goo.gl/pXEVYfPdYwfiKbDTA

パパ・ノエル
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RQhvh5rX8yka8Mjy8

吉原神社
https://maps.app.goo.gl/LpzZwxes1kHwSz6s8

浄閑寺
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MgiZQqCVS8phDdPF6

石濱茶寮 楽
https://maps.app.goo.gl/S6GQ18zhoDHRpHfy7

石浜神社
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ShQ1cLK4ErYgK6wo6

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#東京　#三ノ輪　#吉原