【熊野古道・伊勢路】③ 馬越峠の石畳道と西国一の難所・八鬼山越えに挑む | Kumano-Kodo, Iseji
Kumano Kodo / Iseji Route
Part 3: Kii-Nagashima to Mikisato 4th day after leaving Ise Umegadani Station Kumano Kodo Iseji Route Trip Part 3 It’s the fourth day. Today I will depart from Umegadani Station. From Umegadani you can reach two mountain passes,
Tsuzurato Pass and Nisaka Pass. Last time I went through Tsuzurato Pass
to Kii-Nagashima Station. This time I’ll go back a little bit
and go from Umegadani to Nisaka Pass. Now, I’ll go. Nisaka Pass Course. It’s 7.5km to Kii-Nagashima Station. The Kumano Kodo Iseji is a pilgrimage route that spans approximately 200km, connecting two major sacred sites,
Ise Shrine and Kumano Sanzan. In the past, many people walked across the mountains,
heading for Kumano, a place where they could revive
after visiting Ise. The journey is home to ancient cobblestone paths, historic mountain passs, and charming townscapes, and the beautiful scenery that harmonizes with the natural scenery of the seasons. In 2004, it was registered as a World Heritage Site
as a “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range”. And it is a popular route visited by many pilgrims and hikers
from both Japan and abroad. This time Iseji trip started at Umegadani Station,
one station before Kii-Nagashima Station, the last ending point, and then crossed Nisaka Pass, Miura Pass, and Hajikami Pass
to reach Aiga Station. The next day, I will pass through the popular Magose Pass
on the cobblestones and enter Owase, and cross the most difficult part of the Saigoku, Yakiyama,
and reach the finish line at Mikisato Station. On the way, I take a detour from Magose Pass
to Mt.Binshiyama and Mt.Tengurasan,
which are popular spots for spectacular views. From here I enter Nisaka Pass. Nisaka Pass is a mountain pass that replaced Tsuzurato Pass in the early Edo period and became the gateway to Kishu. It is said that this name came from the fact that the road is wide and the slope is gentle, and it can be overtaken even if you carry heavy loads. Toge Tea House Remains. Nisaka Pass Is this Nisaka Pass? There were hardly any ups from Umegadani Station,
and I arrived at Nisaka Pass in no time. A little further away, there is a place where I can see the scenery called Okimi-daira, so I’ll stop by there. There is a signpost, Nisaka Pass. 1/12 It stands every 100m, so it is about 1.2km. There was 18 in Tsuzurato Pass, so it’s a little shorter than that. I will head towards Okimi-daira. It’s here. Okimi-daira It’s beautiful. This is Okimi-daira. There is a stamp. I got a stamp for Nisaka Pass. One reason was that I went out of my way to Nisaka Pass because I wanted this stamp. Nisaka Pass is divided into the Edo road and the Meiji road in some places. The Edo road is generally steep,
and the Meiji road is gentle. This time I will pass through the Meiji road. Compared to Tsuzurato Pass, it’s easier to walk. This is a bear’s claw. Is this? 2015 was 10 years ago, quite a while ago. Is that this? It looks like it’s quite new. Maybe another bear left a claw mark recently? Bears are a little scary. This is where Nisaka Pass is over. Was this a milestone? I came to the road station. Kii-Nagashima Manbow(sunfish) It’s here. I got a stamp for Kii-Nagashima Manbow. Saury sushi Mehari Sushi Purchased mehari sushi for lunch From the road station, heading towards Kii-Nagashima Station. This area feels really good. The weather is nice today, and the wind is moderately blowing, making it cool, making it a great weather for walking along Iseji Route. Kii-Nagashima Station Last time I went through this Tsuzurato Pass. This time I went to Nisaka Pass. This is where the real start to today. There is a guidepost here. “Right Kumano Road” I mean this is the right. Nagashima Shrine That tree is incredibly thick. This is a giant tree. The large camphor tree at Nagashima Shrine is 850 years old. It is 28m high and has a trunk circumference of 10m. Ikkoku Pass and Heiho Pass I was surprised. This is a “Kiritoshi”. Ikkoku Pass This is Ikkoku Pass. Ikkoku Pass has a great view. I found a 4km guide. 90km to Shingu. The last time I came to Kii-Nagashima Furusato Onsen, which is over there. There are several guesthouses in the village of Furusato
where you can enjoy delicious seafood and hot springs. I’ll go up the slope next to the tunnel. Observation deck Feels good. That’s good. It’s just lunchtime, so I’ll be taking a break here and have lunch. Mehari Sushi to buy at the roadside station earlier. Mehari Sushi is a local dish from the Kishu and Kumano regions,
wrapped in lightly pickled takana. It is said that the name comes from eating with an eye-opening mouth. The large and small islands floating in the Kumano Sea
are called “Matsushima in Kii”,
likening it to Matsushima in Miyagi Prefecture. I had some Mehari sushi and took a break. This is a really great spot to take a break and it feels really good. I can’t take it easy, so I’m thinking about leaving soon. From here I head to Miura Pass. 86km to Shingu There was also a guidepost at Miura Pass. 1/18 Kiritoshi(cutting) Miura Pass It says Miura Pass here, This cut is Miura Pass. At first there was a pretty steep climb,
but I arrived at the mountain pass right away, so it wasn’t too hard. There was a stamp. I got a stamp for Miura Pass. I was thinking that today’s mountain pass would be over at the Miura Pass. From now on, I will be climbing the last mountain pass, Hajikami Pass. 82km to Shingu And 84km to Ise It’s halfway through from Ise to Shingu. I’ve finally come this far. There is also a guidepost at Hajikami Pass. 2/16 Hajikami Pass It’s not a very high pass,
but the view seems to be very stunning. Have I arrived? Hajikami Pass It is a scenic spot. That’s good. On a clear day, you can even see Mt. Fuji. I got a stamp for Hajikami Pass. After a short walk from Hajikami Pass,
the road will split into two: the Meiji road and the Edo road. The Edo road is the World Heritage Site,
so today I’ll be going through the Edo road. I arrived quickly after passing through the Edo road. Maybe it’s the end here. 16/16 It looks like it’s about 8km away from today’s destination (Aiga Station). I found a signpost. 78km to Shingu Next signpost 74km to Shingu It’s a Meiji era-style building I don’t have time to tour the inside so I’ll move on. Another 4km signpost 70km left until Shingu It’s been a lot. Today’s Goal Aiga Station is 350m away I’ll be there soon. Aiga Station I arrived at Aiga Station. Today I left Umegadani Station and crossed four passes:
Nisaka Pass, Ikkoku Pass, Miura Pass, and Hajikami Pass. The road was quite long, and I walked about 30km. There were several views of the sea from the mountain pass,
and it was a very nice view. So tomorrow I will depart from Aiga Station again
and finally head towards Owase. I’m very curious about the Miyama-Don. Excuse me. There’s no one here. Are you open? Special seafood chirashi, Miyama-Don Ichifuji’s Miyama-Don is a seafood bowl that contains over 10 types of seafood, focusing on fresh locally sourced seafood that was purchased that day. This is a masterpiece that allows you to fully enjoy the bounty of Kihoku’s sea with its outstanding freshness and flavor. I had a Miyama-Don at Ichifuji. The sea is close to this area,
so the seafood is super fresh and delicious. I came to this Owase deep sea water bath called “Yumekodo-no-Yu.” 5th day after leaving Ise Aiga Station Good morning. Today is the fifth day of the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route. I’ll start again from Aiga Station,
which was the end of yesterday. Today I will be crossing two hard mountain passes. I’ll go now. Pilgrimage Guide Kannon, clam stone. Shall I take a look? Entrance to Magose pass It takes about an hour to reach Magose Pass from here. Today, I will also be heading out to Mt.Binshiyama
and Mt.Tengurasan. This mountain is famous for its “elephant back” location,
where you can take great photos. After crossing Magose Pass, I will enter Owase. “A significant part of the mountain range, about 2km from the foot of the mountain, is paved with paving stones, and still retains the image of the past.” This cobblestone looks like it’s been around for a long time. It’s very well preserved. Easy to walk. It’s been going on. Magose Pass is a mountain pass connecting Kihoku Town and Owase City, and during the Edo period, a cobblestone road was developed by the Kishu Domain. The road, which lasts approximately 2km, is smoothly laid with natural stones, making it easy to walk in with few steps. It is said to be the most cobblestone road on the Iseji road
and is popular with many hikers. Magose Pass 2/22 There are even No. 22, so it’s the longest ever. I was surprised that I had no idea that the cobblestones remained in such a long distance and in good condition. It’s easy to see that Magose Pass is a popular mountain pass. Yonaki-Jizo. Here The cobblestones are still ongoing. People at the time often laid out so many of these large stones. 540m left to Magose Pass. I can see a little view from here. From here it becomes a normal mountain path. Magose Pass I have arrived at Magose Pass. I got a stamp for Magose Pass. Mt.Binshiyama and Mt.Tengurasan. I want to go both here. First, Mt.Binshiyama. Mt.Binshiyama is famous for its “Elephant Back,” 120 minutes and 2,400m. It’s quite a distance but I’ll go. After that, I head to Mt.Tengurasan. So I’ll go. Will it be down first? I’ve been going down for a long time,
but when will I start climbing Mt.Binshiyama? This is Mt.Binshiyama. This is tough. I was thinking that I could go a little from Magose Pass,
but I had to seriously climb the mountain. Today’s highlight is why I’m going to try my best to climb. I think I’ll stop Mt.Tengurasan when I run out of time. From here, I will begin climbing Mt.Binshiyama Until now, the stairs have been ongoing. From here it became a stone step. It came in a place where the rocks were quite lumpy. Looking at the map, it looks like it’s almost at the top,
but there’s still no further notice. Mt. Binshiyama 598m It was more tough than I thought. It was pretty tough If you want to only walk the Kumano Kodo,
it’s best not to take a detour here. It’s more tough than you thought. Its true purpose is not Mt.Binshiyama itself, but the “elephant’s back.” This is where I wanted to go the most. Is this “elephant’s back” ? It’s different from what I thought. I think I’ve seen a lot of photos without trees though. Is this correct? No, it’s not, I was surprised. It says, “The elephant’s back is over there .” It’s not, it’s definitely. “Elephant’s Back” “Elephant’s Back” was really good. It’s quite far from Magose Pass,
but it’s definitely worth coming. I said earlier that it’s better not to come,
but it’s worth coming here. Magose Pass It says “about 120 minutes to Mt.Binshiyama.” I arrived about an hour and a half, took a 30-minute break on “elephant’s back”, and then returned after about an hour. I was able to get back in about 3 hours round trip. I took a short break and headed to Mt.Tengurasan. It says 30 minutes
so I can come back in an hour round trip. Now head to Mt.Tengurasan. Mt.Tengurasan also has quite a few stairs. This is a very steep climb. This is a huge rock. Can I climb onto this rock? It looks like it’s coming to the top soon. It looks like that’s the summit. Mt. Tengurasan There is a ladder. Near the summit of Mt.Tengurasan, there are still stone monuments and shrines dedicated to Ennogyoja, the founder of Shugendo. The scenery is just as amazing as the elephant’s back. It’s a spectacular view. I can see the city of Owase. The mountain you can see over there is Mt.Yakiyama
that I will be climbed later. I will go through the city of Owase
and go across that mountain to MIkisato station. I heard it takes about 5 hours to cross Mt.Yakiyama,
so I have to hurry up and it won’t be possible in time. It’s scary, but I’ll try it up. I’m scared to go up,
but it looks even scarier to go down. This ladder is so unrequited. Is it okay? The top is quite wide. Tengu Rock I’ve arrived. The city of Owase, seen from this side, is also quite impressive. I have no choice but to go backwards. It’s so scary. It’s scary to go down rather than to go up. Okay. Magose Pass This is the third time I’ve come here Now, I’d like to go back to Iseji and head down to Owase. This cobblestone reminds me of a while ago. The final boss is still there today. What do you think? Can I go there? This is where Magose Pass is finished. 66km to Shingu. The town of Owase is approaching quite a bit. “Left Kumano Road” If you turn this way, you’ll head towards Owase Station. I’m already tired today so I feel like I want to finish at Owase Station. I have to go to my next destination, Mikisato. I’ll do my best and cross Mt.Yakiyama. Over here, over Mt.Yakiyama. I’ll pass through the private houses. From here I head into Mt.Yakiyama,
and I’m already quite tired and my legs hurt. I hope I can get off at 6, 7, or so. The pace is slowing down a bit right now,
so it may take longer. It’s tough It’s hot, and my legs are already full. Entrance to Mt.Yakiyama 4km signpost is 104km to Ise. Over 100km, Ise I’ll do my best Yakiyama 1/63 63 It’s the longest ever. 6.3km Overcoming Mt. Yakiyama is known as one of the most difficult routes on Iseji Road. It is said that during the Edo period,
bandits and wolves appeared, causing pilgrims torment. Here’s a memorial monument to the collapsed pilgrimage. Here, the pilgrims went and collapsed and offered to pray. Many of the people who took the pilgrimage had physical illnesses,
so they probably collapsed halfway through. Yakiyama Pass 2,980m. 110 minutes There’s still a long way to go. The cobblestone road around this area seems to retain a good look at the time. It seems to be a road developed by the Kishu Domain
during the Edo period. It’s true that there are beautifully large, flat stones
lined up with a slightly larger, flat stone. Apparently this Jizo statue played the role of milestones. 20/63 It’s about 1/3 of it From here, “Hard part, Nana-magari” Nana-magari is a very hard part of the “most difficult part of Saigoku” over Mt.Yakiyama. A steep slope continues. Is this a hard part? It’s been pretty tough up until now though. Nana-magari Will this end the “Nana-magari”? Will it still continue? From here it became a flat earth path. A little easier. Sakura Chaya milestone Was there a tea house in a place like this? It’s not written whether there was a Sakura Chaya,
but regardless, it seems that this was the milestone. There’s another steep slope from here. Lotus Stone and Eboshi Stone That’s because the shape resembles a lotus and eboshi Kuki Pass Mt.Yakiyama 640m to the summit. very soon. A new building has appeared. What is this? Kojin-do Has the temple that was once here been rebuilt? Kojin-do was aged for a long time,
but was rebuilt by local volunteers in 2019
and is now a new hall. There was a stamp. Is the internet not connected? Yakiyama Pass The summit is over there. I’ve arrived. Mt. Yakiyama Yakiyama, 647m Looking at the numbers alone, it was low
but it was really tough. I can see something like an observation deck, so let’s go. Sakura-no-Mori Square The mountains… I can see ocean. It’s so beautiful. Kumano-Nada is visible. It was already dark after 6pm in the mountains. I turned on the headlights
because I couldn’t see my feet and it was dangerous. It’s been a little later than planned. It’s easy to see because there is reflective tape wrapped around the guidepost. This is 63/63 This is the end, Yakiyama I found a 4km guidepost for the first time in a while 54km to Shingu There is also a toilet I thought the rest would be just a path that is easy to walk on,
but there are quite a few paths like this that are difficult to walk on. Walking on the cobblestones makes my feet quite tired. What is this? Water is… Huh? do I have to go here? There’s no way. Suddenly the road turns into a river. This is a bit unexpected. The river continues. It takes a little time to walk this path. It’s become a grass. Easy to walk. This is good. Mikisato Station I’ve done it, finally Today’s trip to Iseji Route started off at Aiga Station
and crossed two major mountain passes: Magose and Yakiyama. If it was just these two, it would have been fine. I also went to Mt.Binshiyama and Mt.Tengurasan
from Magose Pass, So it was a very difficult day
in terms of both distance and cumulative altitude. I think it’s pretty hard to just do two things: Magose Pass and Yakiyama. If you are going to try it,
I think it would be better to just leave it at those two mountain passes, Or to stop Mt.Yakiyama and go to Mt. Mt.Binshiyama and Mt.Tengurasan. So this is the end of this trip. Thank you for watching.
伊勢から熊野へ、聖なる巡礼の旅の第3弾(伊勢を出発して、4-5日目)
今回は、梅ケ谷駅からスタートし、前回通ったツヅラト峠とは別の荷坂峠ルートを通りました。
海岸沿いの道や峠からは、「紀伊の松島」と呼ばれる大小の島々が浮かぶ熊野灘の絶景が望めます。
いくつかの小さい峠を越えて相賀駅で1日目は終了。
2日目は美しい石畳道が今なお残る馬越峠を登りました。
伊勢路はそのまま尾鷲に下るのですが、絶景スポットとして有名な便石山と天狗倉山に寄り道してきました。
その後、今回の旅の最大の試練・八鬼山越えに挑みました。
さすが西国一の難所と言われるだけあって、かなりキツかった…😭
ヘロヘロになりながら、三木里駅でゴール!
これまでの伊勢路の中では、一番ハードな行程でした。
熊野古道・伊勢路シリーズ
(この動画) https://youtu.be/WSLGpowq_hU
YAMAPの記録
https://yamap.com/activities/39182556
#熊野古道 #伊勢路 #世界遺産 #馬越峠 #八鬼山 #便石山 #象の背 #天狗倉山 #ロングトレイル
#kumanokodo #iseji #longtrail #japantravel
00:00 オープニング・梅ケ谷駅
03:47 荷坂峠・沖見平
08:16 紀伊長島駅
11:25 紀伊の松島
15:26 始神峠
19:42 伊勢を出発して5日目・相賀駅
24:08 馬越峠
26:38 便石山・象の背
30:35 天狗倉山
35:43 八鬼山登り口
41:14 八鬼山山頂
44:07 三木里駅・エンディング
3 Comments
続き待ってました。
ありがとうございます!
🎉56キロですか、そーとー頑張りましたね。超人的スタミナに胆力と脚力、これは参考になりません(笑😅)最後暗い中道迷いせず着けて良かったです。象の背からの景色見せてくれて有難うございました。
すごいロングハイクですね😲かなりの健脚❗
新宮まで残り何キロってのが気が狂いそうな距離w
30kmも歩ける足が欲しい~👍