【川崎宿を深掘り】東海道五十三次 宿場めぐり その2 川崎宿【深掘り】
This time’s deep-dive journey is a series of tours of the 53 stations of the Tokaido. An in-depth explanation of Kawasaki-juku, the second post station from Nihonbashi. The commentator is me, “Yacchi.” I, “Scucchi”, am a listener. So, let’s start the deep journey of travel robot! Travel robot’s in-depth journey. Kawasaki-shuku was located in Kawasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture. There was a Kawasaki inn near Akamaru. Since the top of the map is towards Nihonbashi on the Tokaido, you can see that Kawasaki-juku is just across the river. After seeing the “Rokugo Ferry” used to cross the river, I decided to enter Kawasaki-juku. So, I came to Rokugodote Station on the Keikyu Main Line. I think I’ll walk from here and check out Kawasaki-juku. If you are coming by train from Shinagawa-juku, take the local train from Aomono Yokocho Station and go to the 9th station. If you don’t want to see Rokugo no Watari, the next station, Keikyu Kawasaki Station, is closest to Kawasaki-juku. To go to Rokugo-no-Watari, exit Rokugo-dote Station and turn right. Rokugo no Watashi was a means of crossing the Tama River, which flows between present-day Tokyo and Kanagawa Prefecture. There was a time when a bridge was built, but it seems people have been crossing by ferry for nearly 200 years. Nowadays, bridges are the norm for crossing rivers, but in the past people would also cross by boat. There were several places on the Tokaido road where there were no bridges to cross rivers, and the reasons for this differed depending on the location. In some places it was simply difficult to build bridges, and in others we deliberately did not build bridges. Even though Tokugawa Ieyasu unified the country and established the Edo shogunate, there was still the possibility that each daimyo would rebel. Large rivers were advantageous for defense, so it seems that some places did not purposely build bridges for defense purposes. Was the Rokugo ferry also for defense purposes? As I said earlier, there was a time when there was a bridge across Rokugo. In 1600, the Rokugo Ohashi Bridge was built over the Tama River. It was rebuilt several times, but it was washed away in the great flood of 1688, and the Shogunate apparently gave up on building the bridge. The bridge was rebuilt in 1613, 1643, 1662, 1681, and 1684. The bridge built in 1684 was the last bridge of the Edo period. Four years later, it was washed away in a huge flood. The next bridge was built in 1874. This means that no bridge has been built for 186 years. If you turn right at the Rokugo Dote intersection, you can go to the place where the Rokugo ferry was. Sanai Bridge was built in 1874. This bridge was built by Sanai Suzuki, the village head of Yahatsuka Village, at his own expense, and a toll was required to cross it. By the way, a village official was a village official who administered the village during the Edo period, and was apparently called a village head in the eastern part of the country and a shoya in the western part of the country. Sanai Bridge was also washed away by the flood of 1878. After that, there was no bridge for a while. Local people formed the Rokugo Bridge Association and built the Rokugo Bridge, which had a toll fee, in 1883. In 1900, the bridge was acquired by Keihin Electric Railway (Keikyu Corporation). It was transferred to the national government in 1906, but was washed away in 1910. In 1925, a new Rokugo Bridge was built. Afterwards, the bridge was rebuilt to widen it. A portion of the new Rokugo Bridge was opened in 1984. A new Rokugo Bridge was completed in 1987, and widening work was completed in 1997, creating the current Rokugo Bridge. If you cross this Rokugo Bridge, you will enter Kawasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture. I don’t know the exact location, but I think the Rokugo ferry was around here. “Rokugo no Watari” is roughly around Akamaru. A monument stands before you cross the bridge. It’s understandable that if this many bridges were washed away, people would give up on building them. The name of the bridge that was built in 1600 is “Rokugo Ohashi” because the lower reaches of the Tama River were once called “Rokugo River.” I don’t know why it was called Rokugogawa River, but according to the “New Edition Musashi Fudoki Koko,” six villages along the banks of the Tama River, Yawatatsuka, Takahata, Furukawa, Machiya, Michizuka, and Zoshiki, were once called Rokugomura. It seems that there is a legend that it is one village. Sorry if I read it wrong… That village was located in the Rokugo district of Ota Ward, where I am now. Because it flows near Rokugo Village, it feels like it has become the Rokugo River. The truth is unknown. If anyone knows, please let me know in the comments. There is no ferry boat now, so we cross the Tama River by walking on Rokugo Bridge. This Rokugo Bridge is on National Route 15. This road is the old Tokaido. I wonder if it passes over the place where people in the Edo period crossed the river. When you think about it, it feels a little strange. There is a wide riverbed now, but I wonder what it was like in the past. On the upstream side of Rokugo Bridge, there are bridges for the Keikyu Main Line and JR Line. Is the train you’re currently taking the Tokaido Main Line? I don’t know much about trains, so I might be wrong. Kawasaki-juku was built in 1623. This happened 20 years after the Ekidenma system was introduced. A “Shuku-eki” is a village along a highway, and is a post station where travelers could stay overnight or people and horses could be gathered to carry luggage. "Denma" was explained in the Shinagawa-shuku video. Yeah. “Denma” is a horse that is used for official business by the shogunate at the inn station. The distance from Shinagawa-shuku to Kawasaki-shuku is two and a half ri, or 9.8km. Before Kawasaki-shuku was built, Shinagawa-shuku was followed by Kanagawa-shuku, and the distance between them was 5 ri (approximately 20 km). People back then apparently walked about 40km in a day, so the distance between post stations was about half a day. It seems that the burden on the post station was too great, so it was decided to build a post station in Kawasaki, which was located in the middle. That’s how it happened. However, it seems that the problem was not solved just because Kawasaki-shuku was built. It seems that the burden on the farmers working as the horses was heavy, and the wholesalers were forced into bankruptcy. Toiyaba is a place that prepares horses and people, so I think the burden of doing so was too great. In 1632, the inn officials went so far as to appeal to the shogunate for the abolition of Kawasaki-shuku. As can be seen from the fact that Kawasaki-juku is located at the 53rd post station on the Tokaido route, this appeal was not heeded and the post station continued to operate. Although the shogunate provided support to wholesalers, etc., finances were in dire straits due to increased burdens on horse riding, earthquakes, and the eruption of Mt. Fuji. The person who saved this predicament was Kyugu Tanaka. I will explain the details at the headquarters site. Do you mean someone who is related to the headquarters? That’s what it is. At the time Kawasaki-shuku was built, there was no honjin where the feudal lords could stay. In 1628, Matsudaira Masatsuna, a feudal lord from Soshu Tamanawa (present-day Kamakura City), was on his way to Edo when he decided to stay at Kawasaki-juku due to bad weather. Soshu is another name for Sagami Province, which is Kanagawa Prefecture excluding present-day Yokohama and Kawasaki cities. Since Kawasaki-juku did not have accommodation facilities, Matsudaira Masatsuna had no choice but to stay at Myoen-ji Temple. Matsudaira Masatsuna advised the shogunate about the deficiencies of Kawasaki-juku. As a result, the shogunate provided a grant of 100 ryo, and the following year, in 1628, 12 inns and a temporary headquarters for the Tanaka family were built. It became the official headquarters in 1634. After that, other honjins were established, and Kawasaki-juku had three honjins. One of them is thought to have gone out of business in the late Edo period. It seems that there was no Wakihonjin. Cross the Tama River and enter Kawasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture. If you came to see it from Rokugo no Ferry, does that mean Kawasaki-juku is just across the river? The Edo-side entrance to Kawasaki-juku, Edo-kata-mitsuke, seems to be a little further down the road. However, it was a long bridge. The last Rokugo Ohashi Bridge in the Edo period was 111 ken (202 m) long and 4 ken 2 shaku (approximately 8 m) wide. Sanai Bridge, built by Suzuki Sanai in the Meiji era, is 60 ken (109 m) long and 3 ken (5.5 m) wide. The current length of Rokugo Bridge is approximately 443m and width is approximately 34m. Why are the lengths different? I don’t know why. Has the width of the river changed, or has the location of the bridge changed? I crossed the Rokugo Bridge. I wonder if they used to cross on a boat like this? I would like to ride on a boat similar to the one used in those days if the Rokugo Ferry is still available for sightseeing. It would be fun if it was an event or something. There is something that seems to be related to Rokugo no Watashi, but there doesn’t seem to be any explanation of Rokugo no Watari around here. There is the “Meiji Emperor Rokugo Togyo Monument”. When I looked up how to read it, I found on the website of the Kanto Regional Development Bureau Yokohama National Highway Office that it was written as “Meiji Emperor Togyohi”. It is believed that there was a dock at the time beneath the embankment below this monument. After seeing the Rokugo ferry, let’s head to Kawasaki-juku. Even though we were touring post stations, it took quite a while to get to the post station. It took a long time to cross the Tama River. A short walk from Rokugo no Watari is Edokamitsuke, Kawasaki-juku. I can’t find anything to indicate its location, so I don’t know its exact location, but it seems like this area was the Mitsuke area of Edo. I like that the old Tokaido is easier to understand. I came here after doing some research, but having something like this would be helpful. Follow the arrow and the old Tokaido passes under National Route 15. The curved entrance to Kawasaki-juku may have something to do with Mitsuke being a military facility. As you pass under National Route 15, you will see an explanation of “Mannenya Ruins” on the right. The location is the red circle on the map. I think you can see that it’s right next to Rokugo no Ferry. Mannenya is said to have become the best teahouse in the post town due to its Nara tea rice. Nara Chahan is a small amount of rice that is cooked with roasted soybeans, red beans, roasted chestnuts, etc., and sencha or roasted green tea seasoned with salt and soy sauce. As the name suggests, this is a local dish from Nara Prefecture. It seems that it was originally eaten in monks’ quarters at Kofukuji Temple and Todaiji Temple in Nara, using tea, which was valuable at the time. It seems unclear how it got to Kawasaki. It seems that the name became known nationwide after Yaji and Kita ate Nara Chahan in “Tokaido Chuuhizakurige”. When Mannenya went out of business, Kawasaki’s Nara Chameshi ceased to exist. However, in 2001, it was reproduced based on literature. Nowadays, a modern version of “Nara Chahan Style Okowa” is being made, and it seems to be attracting attention as Kawasaki’s new specialty. By the way, I found out later that the place where the Mannenya was explained was not the same place where the Mannenya was. Really? Yeah. The location of Mannenya was probably around Akamaru. My mistake was thinking that it was on the explanation board… I think it’s around the back left of the intersection where the old Tokaido arrow was. It’s just a normal place to pass by. By the way, the Daishi path that goes to Kawasaki Daishi begins from there. When you cross the pedestrian crossing near the Mannen-ya commentary board, you will see a stone monument that says “Old Tokaido”. From here, head towards Kyoto and check out Kawasaki-juku. Kawasaki-juku was also the starting point of the Daishi path to Kawasaki Daishi, so there were several large teahouses where worshipers stopped by. It seems that Aizuya and Nittaya were famous. After doing a little research, it seems like Nittaya was located near the Mannenya explanation board. If that’s correct, that’s a shame. That’s true. Kawasaki-juku has a map called “Tokaido Kawasaki-juku Historic Site Tour”. It might be a good idea to look at this map and look around. However, since it’s next to a supermarket, there’s the problem that it gets in the way when you’re looking at it slowly. It might be a good idea to take a photo and view it in a place where it won’t get in the way. I agree. Tourists will be intruding on the daily lives of local people, so we need to be careful not to disturb them. The next place we go to is a place with a description of “a town called Shinjuku.” It’s not on the Kawasaki-juku Town Walk Guide Map, so if you rely solely on this, you might pass by it. Kawasaki-juku consisted of four villages, starting with Shinjuku and Isago, and adding Kunezaki and Kotoro. According to this explanation, it seems unclear whether the central area was called “Shinjuku” later, or whether it became “Shinjuku” when the post post was built. Either way, this area was Shinjuku. The origin of the name of Shinjuku Ward in Tokyo is the new inn, “Naito Shinjuku”, so “Shinjuku” may have existed as a place name elsewhere. Is the place name “honjuku” (motojuku) also related to a post station? Maybe so. “Shinmachi” is probably a new town, and “Fujimi” means you can see Mt. Fuji. This intersection is called "Honcho". The name gives the impression that it is the center of the town. It’s an intersection that is described as “a town called Shinjuku,” so it may have meant that it was the center of a newly built inn. The next place we will go is the Tanaka Honjin Ruins. Tanaka Honjin is related to Tanaka Kyuu, who I talked to briefly at the Rokugo ferry. Tanaka Honjin is a Honjin that was created on the advice of Masatsuna Matsudaira, whom I mentioned earlier. It is also the oldest main building in Kawasaki-juku. Of the three honjin in Kawasaki-juku, it was the one closest to Edo, so it was called the “lower honjin.” In 1704, at the age of 42, Kyugu Tanaka took over the management of Tanaka Honjin. Kawasaki-juku was in such dire straits that they called for the abolition of the post due to the burden of riding horses. Kyūgu Tanaka, who was a wholesaler, head of the village, and head of the honjin, lobbied the shogunate. Kawasaki-shuku took over the interest in the Rokugo ferry, and also received relief money. Thanks to the efforts of Kyūgu Tanaka, Kawasaki-juku was rebuilt. If it wasn’t for Kyūgu Tanaka, Kawasaki-juku might have been in trouble. I’d like to see a parallel world without Kyuu Tanaka. It seems that Kyūgu Tanaka has been called a child prodigy ever since he was a child. Kyūgu Tanaka was born in 1662 in Hirasawa Village, Tama District, Musashi Province (currently Hirasawa, Akiruno City, Tokyo). He was the second son of Kubojima Hachirozaemon Shigefuyu, a farmer and head of a village who also worked as a silk merchant. It is unknown whether this is the correct pronunciation of the father’s name. Together with his brother, he studied at Daizenji Temple in Hachioji and became a silk merchant. Afterwards, he came to live with the Tanaka Genzaemon family in Komukai Village, Tachibana District, Musashi Province (present-day Kawasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture). He was then adopted by Tanaka Hyogo of Tanaka Honjin and inherited the headship of the family. It seems that he was adopted because Tanaka Hyogo recognized his talent. It means that he used his talent to rebuild Kawasaki-juku. That’s what it is. Kyugu Tanaka’s activities did not stop there; in 1723, he became involved in the shogunate’s flood control projects. He was involved in the Tama River flood control project, the renovation of the Nikaryo Waterway, and the Sakawa River renovation. In July 1729, he was appointed magistrate and was given control of 30,000 koku of land. However, on December 22 of that year, he passed away at the age of 68. He was a very talented person. Kawasaki-juku was able to be rebuilt thanks to Kyūgu Tanaka, but in the great fire of 1761, almost all of the area from Kodoro to Rokugo Ferry was completely destroyed. After that, I couldn’t find any information about how it was restored. Next is “Sukego Kaisho Ruins”. A sukego is a buyaku (husband) assigned to villages around a post station for the purpose of protecting the post station and replenishing the number of people and horses. The people and horses conscripted as a result of this were collected at Sukego Kaisho. “Buyaku” refers to the labor section assigned to farmers. The village where he played the role of husband was called Sukego Village. It seems that Sukego Village was also forced to bear the burden of maintaining Kawasaki Inn. A short distance from the Sukego Kaisho ruins is the Tokaido Kawasaki-shuku Exchange Center. This “Kawasaki-Shuku Town Walk Guide Map” was obtained from the Kawasaki-Shuku Community Center. There are exhibits related to Kawasaki-juku and a place to rest, so I think it’s a good idea to stop by when you’re touring Kawasaki-juku. Next is the Toiyaba ruins. There was also “Naka no Honjin” and “Takafudaba” in this area. The wholesale store ruins are located at the Sunako 1-chome intersection. The wholesale store was on the other side of the road, so I crossed it. At Kawasaki-juku, approximately 30 wholesaler officials apparently worked day and night shifts. It seems that it had the functions of a government office, post office, and distribution center, so it makes sense that the company was extremely busy with its duties. Opposite the wholesale store, near where the arrow was, is the remains of the main camp. Because it was located in the middle of the three main shrines, it was called “Naka no Honjin.” Officially, it is "Sobei Honjin". It is thought that the company went out of business during the Kyowa period (1801-1804) in the late Edo period. I couldn’t find any information boards or anything, but there was a billboard with rules and regulations nearby. There was another wholesale store on the map next to the ruins of the main building inside. I couldn’t find it when I looked beforehand. It seems to be around the corner from Sosanji Temple. I’ve already passed by, so I think I’ll go back. I think there was probably another wholesale store around here. I went back and found nothing, so I moved on. This is the intersection of Old Tokaido and City Hall Street. If you go to the right, you will see JR Kawasaki Station. Next is the third honjin, “Sato Honjin Ruins”. The Sato Honjin ruins are located across from the Kawasaki Shinkin Bank main branch. Explanations are posted on the glass of the building from the inside, so be careful as it’s easy to miss. Sato Honjin was also called “upper Honjin” because it was the closest to Kyoto (upper) of the Kawasaki-shukus. It seems that it was also called "Sozaemon Honjin". It is said that the 14th Shogun Tokugawa Iemochi stayed at Sato Honjin when he headed to Kyoto. Does the fact that the shogun stayed there mean that Sato Honjin was of a higher rank? That seems to be the case, but I couldn’t find any information about it. In the era of Tokugawa Iemochi, there was no Nakano Honjin, so Sato Honjin was chosen instead of Tanaka Honjin. Tanaka Honjin has an older history, so it feels a little strange. If anyone knows anything, please let me know in the comments. Next is the Kodoro Bridge Monument. While walking along the old Tokaido, you will pass an intersection called Kodoro Bridge. But there’s no bridge. In fact, there used to be a bridge called “Kodoro Bridge” in this area. It seems that it was also called “Kotorobashi” instead of “Kodorobashi”. The main pillars of the bridge remain. Main pillars are pillars that are higher than the railings at both ends of the bridge. The names of rivers and bridges are written on them. The Kodoro Bridge shown in this photo. This photo was taken in 1931, and it was buried soon after. In 1650, a new drainage canal, the Shinkawabori Canal, was constructed under the direct management of the Shogunate. The bridge built over the irrigation canal is Kodoro Bridge. The first Kodoro Bridge was a wooden bridge, but Kyūgu Tanaka replaced it with a stone bridge in 1726. Kyuugu Tanaka played an active role here as well. Three years later, an elephant presented to the shogunate arrived from Vietnam. After that, it was severely damaged by a flood, but it has been useful for people to come and go for 190 years. In 1930, a decision was made to turn Shinkawa into a culvert and widen the road in order to improve the functionality of the transportation route and to deal with the unemployment caused by the Great Depression. Construction began in December 1931, and Kodoro Bridge, along with Shinkawabori, was buried underground. The main pillar was not buried and was taken to a private house. In 1984, the main pillar was moved to its current location. In July 1985, the Kodoro Bridge intersection collapsed, and stone pillars and other items that were thought to be part of the Kodoro Bridge were discovered. It seems that the remains of Kodoro Bridge are located within the precincts of Inage Shrine. The last stop is Kamigata Mitsuke in Kawasaki-juku. Entrance/exit of Kawasaki-juku on the Kyoto side. Kawasaki-shuku Kamigata-mitsuke is just a telephone pole with the words “Kawasaki-shuku Kyo entrance” written on it. If you don’t look closely, you might walk right past it. This used to be a parking lot with an explanation board, but after the building was built, I think this is all that’s left. It was a very difficult place to find, and I couldn’t find any landmarks like intersection names. Stores and companies may change. As of May 2024, it is in a building that has “My Basket” on the 1st floor and “ANYTIME FITNESS” on the 2nd floor. It might be a good idea to use the address as “Ogawamachi 10” as a clue. Now that we’ve reached Kawasaki-juku Kamigata-mitsuke, let’s head to the next post. Next to Kawasaki-juku is Kanagawa-juku. Take the old Tokaido towards Kyoto. Head to Hatchonawate Station on the Keikyu Main Line, which is about a 10-minute walk away. At the next stop, Kanagawa-juku, there is a restored ticket counter, so you can finally see what the ticket counter looked like. After passing Matsuo Basho’s haiku monument, you will arrive at Hatchonawate Station. There’s also a story about who Matsuo Basho was, but I’ll leave it at that since it has nothing to do with visiting the 53 stations of the Tokaido. It would be interesting to follow the narrow path in the back. When I looked it up, I found a map of the entire Oku-no-Hosomichi route. I think the route is easier to understand than following the old Tokaido. That seems to be a possibility. Hatchonawate Station came into view. On the old Tokaido, it’s like crossing the railroad crossing in front of the station. If you are going to the next Kanagawa-shuku by train, take the Keikyu Main Line from Hatchonawate Station and get off at Kanagawa-Shinmachi Station. So, this concludes our tour of the 53 stations of the Tokaido, with Kawasaki-juku. I would be happy if you could watch the next video of Kanagawa-juku. Well, let’s meet again in another place. Well, let’s meet again in another place.
東海道五十三次の宿場めぐりの旅。
第2回目は「川崎宿」を深掘りしながらめぐってみます。
次の宿場：神奈川宿
前の宿場：品川宿
#宿川崎 #東海道五十三次 #旧東海道
※「やっち」と「すくっち」について
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