【ニッポンの歩き方 福岡と博多】歴史ある博多 城下町福岡の旅
Hello everyone, today we will start from Shin-Osaka Station. Shin-Osaka Station has 381,092 users a day, including JR Shinkansen, conventional lines, and subway. We prepare for departure at the rice ball shop in the concourse. A total of 900 yen for grilled mackerel, charcoal-grilled chicken, and sekihan. We also got beer.
On the opposite platform, a 500 series Shinkansen train, rumored to be nearing retirement, is preparing to depart. When it debuted in 1997, it ran between Tokyo and Hakata at a maximum speed of 300km/h. It has attracted many people on business and travel.
Now he seems to be enjoying the rest of his life on Sanyang Road. Board the N700A Shinkansen. Morning beer with Asahi mug canned beer. It’s a little too cold so the bubbles don’t come out easily.
When you warm it up in your palm, it becomes a delicious draft beer. Morning Express will start with the rice balls you just procured. Part of the fun of traveling is traveling on the Shinkansen. I dozed off and when I woke up, I landed in Kyushu.
The station we arrived at is the final stop and the largest terminal in Kyushu. Hakata Station. The number of passengers per day in 2022 is 362,908. From this year, the Nanakuma subway line will be added, and the number is expected to increase further.
Fukuoka City has a population of over 1.6 million people, making it the 6th largest city in Japan after Sapporo City. However, in terms of gross regional product and land prices, it is not only the largest city in Kyushu, but often surpasses that of Sapporo.
You can see that it is the central city of the largest economic region after the three metropolitan areas of Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya. The population is on the rise, especially with an influx from Kyushu.
The station building of JR Hakata Station is JR Hakata City. Amu Plaza Hakata and Hakata Hankyu Department Store are tenants. People gather from all over the country, including Fukuoka Prefecture and Kyushu.
Moritahei, a vassal of Nagamasa Kuroda, was a strong man who was offered sake by Masanori Fukushima at a banquet and drank the entire large cup. We will welcome you in front of Hakata Station with the famous Kurodabushi. From Hakata Station, transfer to the municipal subway Kuko Line.
By the way, you can go to Fukuoka Airport from Hakata Station without changing trains. It takes about 6 minutes and the fare is 260 yen. It may be the most convenient airport in Japan. The Airport Line connects with the JR Chikuhi Line.
There is also a train that goes all the way to Nishi-Karatsu in Saga Prefecture without changing trains. Tenjin is the busiest downtown area in Kyushu. In addition to the subway, Nishitetsu trains and buses are here. Tenjin underground shopping mall in Tenjin. There is a stylish mood.
The Tenjin area is the largest downtown area in Kyushu, attracting people and goods from all over Kyushu. There are many commercial facilities such as department stores. Fukuoka Daimaru Department Store’s sales in 2022 will be 47.1 billion yen, ranking 32nd in Japan.
The long-established local Iwataya main store ranked 16th in Japan with sales of 79.1 billion yen. Fukuoka Mitsukoshi ranks 55th in Japan with 26.2 billion yen. Like major cities across the country, buildings in the downtown area are being rebuilt as they age and earthquake resistance standards are strengthened.
Because Fukuoka City is close to the airport, there is a height restriction of 60m in the Hakata Station area and 100m in the Tenjin area. The “Tenjin Big Bang Plan” is underway to ease height standards and encourage rebuilding.
I went up to the ground and arrived at Nishitetsu Fukuoka Tenjin Station, the largest terminal of Nishitetsu, the only major private railway in Kyushu. The number of people getting on and off the train at Nishitetsu Fukuoka Tenjin Station per day is 136,277. At Tenjin subway station, there were 168,236 people.
The Nishitetsu Omuta Line runs 74.8km from Fukuoka Tenjin to Omuta City, with a maximum speed of 110km/h. Nishitetsu’s railway sales in fiscal 2022 will be 18.6 billion yen, the lowest among major private railways. However, Nishitetsu Bus’s sales are approximately 40 billion yen, making it perhaps the largest bus company in Japan. .
Furthermore, Nishitetsu is also focusing on air cargo transportation, with total sales reaching 494.6 billion yen. It is a major city representing Kyushu. An express train has departed for Hanabatake. Nishitetsu seems to be operating a train like this. Its name is “Rail Kitchen Chikugo.”
It seems that you can enjoy Kyushu ingredients in a dedicated kitchen vehicle and restaurant-style seating. Sounds fun. Reservations are required. A car in Nishitetsu colors is coming onto the line. Most new vehicles are made of stainless steel.
It’s called the 7050 series, but it’s been about 20 years since its debut, so it’s probably in its prime. The inside of the car is well maintained. I got off at Takamiya Station, which was three stations away. The number of passengers is 21,252.
The place you’re looking for is “Bikkuri-tei”, which is located under an elevated railway track about a 2-minute walk away. First, let’s toast with draft beer (¥550). The piping hot teppanyaki yakiniku and cold draft beer are irresistible.
The garlic-flavored teppanyaki yakiniku is also famous on national terrestrial television. It seems that it has a history of 64 years. A wooden stick called a geta is laid down and tilted under the iron plate, so the oil flows out and is healthy. The sweet taste of cabbage also whets the appetite.
Even though I’m full, I’ll have another plate of Fukuoka’s soul food, “Mutchan Manju.” I chose the ham and egg flavor, but in addition to sausages and tuna, there are also sweets such as red bean paste and custard. I boarded the bus from a nearby bus stop.
Even though it is a regular route bus, it passes through the expressway and arrives at Momochi Beach. The reason you can ride on the expressway without a seat belt is because you have permission from the Transportation Bureau. The 234m tall Fukuoka Tower opened during the 1989 Asia Pacific Expo.
The observation deck is 123 meters high and is also used as a radio tower for Fukuoka Prefecture’s private broadcasting station, TV. Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk Hotel was opened in 1995 by Daiei. JAL Hotel has been rebranded as Hilton. All 1053 guest rooms have ocean views.
Breakfast is served in the spacious atrium. You can see Hakata Bay and Noko Island. PayPay Dome Fukuoka (Fukuoka Dome) opened in 1993. At the time, it was the home base of the professional baseball team Fukuoka Daiei Hawks. The name has now changed to Softbank Hawks.
The capacity for baseball use is 40,053 people. In addition to baseball games, concerts and other events are held here, attracting fans from all over the country.
The stadium used to have a hard time hitting home runs, but since 2015, a new home run terrace has been built and the number of home runs has increased. Move to “Ohori Park”. This area is part of Fukuoka Castle.
Fukuoka Castle was built by Nagamasa Kuroda, who achieved great success in the Battle of Sekigahara. After the Meiji Restoration, it was renovated many times and opened to the public as a park in 1929.
The surrounding area is about 2km, and many people come here for jogging and other purposes, and during the cherry blossom season, it is crowded with cherry blossom viewing visitors. Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio, who were on their honeymoon, also stopped by.
The boathouse, which was temporarily closed, has been revived and is now a place for citizens to relax. The lake surface reflecting the setting sun was also beautiful. The castle walls of Fukuoka Castle are right next door.
In 1600, Kuroda Nagamasa was appointed by Tokugawa Ieyasu as the lord of the 520,000 koku lord of Chikuzen, and moved into Nagashima Castle. In 1607, they moved to this location and completed Fukuoka Castle. Approximately 250 years until the end of the Edo period. The Kuroda family rules this land.
Tamon Yagura was designated as a national important cultural property, but was destroyed by a suspicious fire. The lower bridge Otemon has been restored. Fukuoka City is currently working on restoring the entire image of Fukuoka Castle and greening it. It is said that Ninomaru was once lined with samurai residences.
Behind the stadium is the ruins of Heiwadai Stadium, which was the home of the Nishitetsu Lions, the predecessor of the Seibu Lions. It is now a vacant lot. Opened in 1948. In 1951, it became the home base of the Nishitetsu Lions, who merged with the Nishinihon Pirates.
In 1954, they defeated the Chunichi Dragons to become the number one in Japan for the first time, and the Nishitetsu Lions, featuring Toyoda, Oshita, Nakanishi, and Inao, defeated the Yomiuri Giants and won their third consecutive championship, creating a golden era and sending Fukuoka citizens into a frenzy. I was allowed to.
Some fans still remember Futoshi Nakanishi’s home run that went over the center field scoreboard. That was in 1953, when he was estimated to be over 160m, about the same as Otani today.
After that, the Lions were involved in the Black Fog Incident, their performance was poor, and they sold themselves. After working as the Pacific Club and Crown Writer, it became the Seibu Lions in 1978 and moved to Tokorozawa City, Saitama Prefecture.
In 1988, the Osaka-based Nankai Hawks sold management rights to Daiei and moved their headquarters to Fukuoka. During the renovation work at this time, the ruins of the Korokan ruins were discovered, and Daiei requested to build a new stadium.
Official professional baseball games ended in 1992, and it was completely closed in 1997. Kourokan was built in 668 and was a diplomatic facility similar to a guesthouse from the Asuka period to the Heian period. It has been excavated and designated as a national historic site.
Now, we headed east and arrived at Nakasu. There is the Fukuoka Prefectural Public Hall Guest House, which is a nationally important cultural property. Until the Edo period, Fukuoka developed as a castle town and Hakata as a commercial city. After the Meiji Restoration, Fukuoka and Hakata were fused together as “Fuku-Haku.”
It is said that when the city was incorporated in 1889, there was a huge dispute over whether the name should be “Fukuoka” or “Hakata.” At one point, there was even a proposal to redivide Fukuoka and Hakata, but in the end, the name “Fukuoka City” was adopted.
The people of Hakata, who were not convinced, insisted that the station name be “Hakata Station” when the Kyushu Railway was being built, and it was approved.
Across the Naka River, which flows into Hakata Bay, Hakata is on the east side, and Fukuoka is on the west side, and the place is called “Nakasu” because it is a branch of the Hakata River. “Fukuhaku Deai Bridge” spanning the Naka River was built with the wish that Fukuoka and Hakata are one.
This area is also used as a filming location for movies, and there are excursion boats, making it a popular date spot. The history of Hakata dates back to the time of “Gishi Wajinden.” The gold seal of “King of Wa” was discovered on Shika Island in Hakata Bay.
It served as the domestic base for the Battle of Hakuchogang, which began in 664 to rescue Baekje on the Korean peninsula, which had friendly relations. It was also the stage of war during the Heian period’s “Toy no Nyukou” and the Kamakura period’s “Genkou” (Mongolian invasion).
Both caused heavy casualties, but it seems that there were many connections with the continent through the peninsula. During the Sengoku period, the city of Hakata was also damaged by war, but Toyotomi Hideyoshi restored Hakata through the Taikomachi War.
Mitsunari Ishida and others worked hard to build Hakata, and the Kobayakawa clan became the lord. After the Battle of Sekigahara, Kuroda Josui and Kuroda Nagamasa and their son became lords and built Fukuoka Castle. Nagamasa Kuroda renovated Kushida Shrine, the general guardian of Hakata, and protected the old Yamakasa.
It was visited by successive feudal lords until the end of the Edo period, and developed into a major event for Hakata townspeople. “Hakata Dontaku” is a citizen festival held on May 3rd and 4th every year, and attracts 2 million people each year.
It originally originated from “Hakata Matsuhayashi,” a New Year’s event for Hakata townspeople. Canal City Hakata is a commercial complex that was redeveloped on the former Kanebo site in 1996. There are multiple city hotels, theaters, multiplexes, restaurants, shops, game centers, and many other facilities.
It is a large facility with a total floor space of 230,000 m2, and attracts people not only from Fukuoka city but also from all over Kyushu. It is now within walking distance from Kushida Jinja-mae Station on the Nanakuma Subway Line, which opened in 2023.
Along the Hakata River, “Kawabata Chuo” and “Kamikawabata” make up the Kawabata-dori shopping street. The atmosphere of Hakata, a merchant town, remains. It has about 130 stores and is crowded with 10,000 people a day. Kawabata Zenzai, said to be the sweetest in Japan, closed in the 1980s, but reopened in 1994.
Established in 1882, “Karonouron” means “corner udon restaurant” in Hakata accent. Hakata udon noodles are soft and the soup is sweet. “Gobotenuron” is popular. Speaking of Hakata udon, it goes well with kashiwa (chicken) rice balls.
Walk around Hakata. At the site of Daijouji, there is a imperial prayer stone that Emperor Kameyama prayed to during the Mongol invasion. Around the 12th century, the area called “Hakata-bu”, the center of Hakata Ward, was bustling with people who came to the area for trade between Japan and Song.
Ever since Toyotomi Hideyoshi restored the city, the townspeople have protected and developed the city. Development continued after the Meiji period. The guardian deity of Hakata is Kushida Shrine. Locally it is called “Okushidasan”. Every year in July, the Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival begins at Kushida Shrine. “Kazari Yamakasa” are displayed everywhere.
It is said to have started in the Kamakura period of the 13th century, when an epidemic was spreading and water was sprinkled over the “Osegakidana” in hopes of eliminating the disaster. At 4:59 am on July 15th, “Oiyamakasa” starts, climaxes, and the party begins.
The Hakata style is to conclude with “Hakata Teipon”. Another dedication event in Hakata is “Hakata Okunchi”. It is called one of the three major Kunchi areas, along with Nagasaki and Karatsu, Saga Prefecture. Hakata Okunchi is now held one month earlier than the Niinamesai festival held on November 23rd.
Mikoshi (portable shrine) is the centerpiece, along with michigo-san and brass bands, which parade through the streets of Hakata. Walk towards Hakata’s Soshinju Kushida Shrine. Kushida Shrine was commissioned here in 737 from Kushida Shrine in Matsusaka City, Mie Prefecture.
The enshrined deity is Kushida Okami, who served Amaterasu Omikami, and the other Kushida shrines enshrine Princess Kushinada. “Princess Kushinada” is not here. Mikoto Susano was the one who exterminated Yamata no Orochi in order to save Princess Kushinada, who was supposed to be sacrificed to Yamata no Orochi.
After that, Susanoo no Mikoto and Princess Kushinada are married. In Nihon Shoki, it seems that the two lived peacefully after this. However, although Amaterasu Omikami and Susano-onomikoto are celebrated at Kushida Shrine in Hakata, Princess Kushinada is not.
Hakata Dontaku has its origins in Hakata Matsuhayashi, and “Hakata Niwaka” was performed at this time. It’s like an “improvised skit” said to have been told by Josui Kuroda and Nagamasa, and requires a sequence. They wear these “niwaka masks” and “botekazura” and make people laugh with their Hakata dialect.
It looks like everyone is gathering. What’ll we do? A person who appeared to be a priest appeared. Parishioners dressed in white gathered together with the mikoshi. We departed for the city of Hakata.
Today is the 22nd of October. It seems that they left to purify the mikoshi at Hamamiya in Hakata Port before tomorrow’s Okunchi. Will you also cleanse the offering box? What is “Kunchi”? ① It is said that the Heian nobility once held a festival on September 9th.
②There is a theory that “Kumotsuhi”, which means “offering day”, is a corruption of “Kunchi” because it is the day when harvested produce is offered to the gods. I don’t know the details. Okunchi is held in Fukuoka, Nagasaki, and Saga prefectures in northern Kyushu.
There is something in common with “Danjiri” in Minami Osaka. I was getting hungry, so I took the subway and arrived at Chiyokenchoguchi Station. It takes about 10 minutes to walk along the Mikasa River. Let’s enjoy Yakiniku at “Genpukan”.
After all, Yakiniku is beer. Bottled beer (large) is ¥700. It was Kirin’s lager beer. The meat menu is simple with kalpi, loin, and offal. Both are ¥1100. I will have both kalpi and roast. “Is it okay if it’s spicy?” she asks.
There is no dipping sauce as it is marinated in a rich sauce. It was very delicious. Our trip to Fukuoka is nearing its end. From Chiyokenchoguchi Station, take the subway back to Hakata Station.
The Airport Line connects Fukuoka Airport to Meinohama for 13km. As mentioned above, there is mutual access to the JR Chikuhi Line from the final stop, Meinohama.
Fukuoka Airport, the eastern terminus, is one of Japan’s leading international airports, ranking third in the country in terms of number of passengers after Haneda and Narita. Domestic flights to Tokyo and international flights to South Korea are rapidly increasing, taking advantage of Japan’s proximity to Japan.
For this reason, airport facilities such as a second runway are being improved by making effective use of the narrow site. On holidays, Hakata Station was crowded with people rushing home. Deitos, located in Hakata Station Amu Plaza, has a wide selection of Fukuoka specialty products and souvenirs.
Let’s prepare for the familiar Izakaya Shinkansen at a certain ground station. Snacks in Hakata are “Goboten” and “Maruten”. Finish off your Hakata trip with Maki no Udon, one of Fukuoka’s three major udon restaurants, located at the Hakata Bus Terminal next to Hakata Station.
I walk down the platform of Hakata Station feeling pleasantly tired. A brief farewell to Fukuoka. Let’s board the Sanyo Shinkansen. The train heading east is full of people leaving Kyushu. Ate is ready.
In addition, Fukuoka has many souvenirs such as karashi mentaiko, karashi takana, and Hakata ramen to take home. Super Dry is ready for dinner. You can take a nap until the end. The Fukuoka trip has ended.
How was your trip to Hakata, a city with ancient history and merchants, and Fukuoka, a castle town? It might be nice to see Kazariyama in the summer as well. Let’s come together again someday in Fukuoka Hakata. Thank you for subscribing to the channel, clicking the rating button, and commenting.
福岡市は古代からの歴史ある博多と城下町福岡が融合した九州最大の大都市
歴史に触れつつ、発展していく福岡市を歩きます